drdabrown

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Everything posted by drdabrown

  1. I have found the same thing when checking my tape measures against metal rulers. I have several tape measures, Starrett, Fast Cap, Stanley, Festool and a few others I've accumulated over the years and have found that they all have some degree of inaccuracy in them. I remember hearing that if you are creating a project that requires accuracy (not framing a house) that it is best to use one tape measure to do all your measurement and cutting to avoid the inaccuracy from creeping into the project. Like you said, you weren't as concerned if the 25" was entirely accurate, as long as the measurement is consistent. That's the key. Using a stop block to make sure that the pieces are the same even if they may be 1/16" off. Just my $.02
  2. Check our Mark's site (The WoodWhisperer.com) for his video on dust masks. I've bought both of his recommended 3M masks. The first one works great, but the second one he mentions (with the flip down strap mechanism) sure is convenient when you want to take a breather or have a conversation without taking off the mask. It also has interchangeable filters for dust or chemical protection.
  3. I've just taken a class from Charles Neil and he covered grain filling. The recommendation from him is to use Aqua Coat or another water-based grainfiller called GoodFilla. His suggestion is to use a darker dye to actuate the grain, Then sand the excess and stain/dye before finish. Check out his video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e92nZ78l8o&list=PLZzO_zGEmte-ReLnvPSXcy5aTJEJw4G12&index=29. He has other videos about finishing, this being just one of them.
  4. I had some Norfolk Island Pine logs that resulted from having to take down the tree to build our home. I didn't get to the logs right away to prepare them for turning. When i did, i discovered Power Post Beetle had infested the logs. After preparing them and painting the surface with Anchorseal to slow down the drying process, but discovered overnight, what looked like hair growing out of the logs where the beetle was active. I had to cut the surface to remove the Anchorseal to expose the raw wood and treated it with Tim-Bor (a powder that needs to be dissolved in water). Boracare (a liquid) could also be used. They are both borax solutions that kill all wood boring organisms including termites, Powder Post Beetle, etc. It worked! I recoated the blanks with Anchorseal and after 3-4 years there is still no evidence of live insects remaining. Hope this helps.
  5. No one has mentioned Festool Granat. I know that it is a proprietary product and may not for your ROSS, but they sell she's and sanding pads as well and there is NO BETTER product it there. Lasts forever.
  6. Nice family photo, Marc. Thanks for the advise. It's nice to voice an opinion without being called out for doing so.
  7. If you are considering Festool sanders, be sure to plan on getting one of their dust collector's for your sanding station. They are made to go together and you will find that their "CT" dust collector will all but eliminate the dust and make your abrasives last so much longer. I own the RO90, my first Festool purchase with the CT26. It is so versatile with the two heads (the 3" round and the delta head) and perfect for getting into difficult areas like corners and the small size works great on the rails and stiles and edges. My second Festool sander was the ETS 150/3, which is a finish sander with a 3mm orbit pattern compared to the 5mm pattern on the ETS 150/5. I use both of these sanders most of the time. I have found that the RTS 400 is often difficult to control on larger panels due to the excellent suction. I've had to go to skewing the abrasive pad to partly cover the suction holes for it to work on the panel, but it's great for narrower rails and edges, etc., but the RO 90 can do that. The RO 90 also can do much of what the DTS 400 can do because of its shape, but the RO 90 is a little heavier. Therefore, I'd go for the RO 90 & ETS 150/3, but be sure to include one of their CT dust extractor. BTW if you are looking for the perfect sander to sand large panels without the danger of ditching them look at the RS2. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. I've made about 6 or 7 end grain cutting boards and have found that running them through the planer with the flattest side on the table works for me. Of course I get tearout on the end pieces, but I finish with on the router table rounding the edges with a round-over bit then using a ROS to finish.
  9. I have the same saw /36" with the mobile base because my two car garage shop requires flexability. You'll love the saw and the overhead dust collection works great. I'm interested in what you do about your out feed table.
  10. I have yet to turn it, but persimmon is well known to be a great wood for turning. It has been used for years to make golf clubs shafts and driver heads. Sounds like a valuable find.
  11. Sometimes I just hate spell check on my phone. What I was trying to say is that the bugs only invade/eat the sapwood. You will find that they stop at the heartwood. With a walnut log that size, you will probably have enough heartwood to turn some nice bowls, etc. but if you like the rugged natural look the portion of the sapwood with defects often make a nice statement. Tim-bor or BoraCare are products that are used to treat wood with any wood boring insect. I've had wood infected with termites, powder post beetle and other boring insects that I've treated with these products and then bagged them up in a black plastic bag to prevent contamination of other woods and to ensure a complete kill, then used the wood to turn bowls. Dry walnut is more difficult to turn and will often have cracks/checks that are difficult to eliminate. Drying walnut logs incorrectly can cause checking.Turning it green or not completely dry is easier and you are more likely to get a finished product without cracks. Good luck