Minnesota Steve

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About Minnesota Steve

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making stuff for around the home.

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  1. It mostly boils down to one of these: Pilot hole too small Pilot hole not deep enough Countersink not deep enough I found this chart to help with pilot hole sizes... hard woods require bigger pilot hole than soft woods. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx Don't use an impact driver on small screws...(anything #8 or smaller... #10 or bigger seem to handle it) use a drill/driver and set the clutch down pretty low, like a 3-5 range. Then hand screw it the rest of the way. The drivers tend to hide the fact that the screw is binding. That's why the clutch is nice, especially set towards lower range. If it's hard to hand screw, then check your pilot hole as above. You can also put a bit of wax on the screw, just rub it on a piece of paraffin or beeswax. That reduces the friction, makes it easier. I've had really good experience with these pre-lubed screws I buy at Rockler. They're very high quality and work well. https://www.rockler.com/8-square-drive-lube-finished-screws-number-8-screws
  2. I flew to Philly to pick up our puppy... it was just a seat on American. I think I would have preferred a private charter. :-)
  3. That looks really nice. How heavy is it to lift up into place?
  4. I have a Makita GA4530, so it's a 4.5" runs about 6 amps, and it has the on/off switch. I've never used it for woodworking.... it's been metal and masonry. But I really wish I had a paddle and not the on/off switch. It's really important to turn the thing off when your shifting position, anytime you take your second hand off the grinder. That's a lot easier with a paddle. That's just me though. Since you must have a Menards near by given you had a masterforce. I would suggest the Metabo(formerly Hitachi). Looks like it's on say for $59 with their 11% rebate... And it's a paddle switch. They ought to have one on display you can hold and see if you like the feel. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/grinders/metabo-hpt-reg-7-4-amp-corded-4-1-2-paddle-switch-angle-grinder/g12sq2m/p-1553063441961-c-9075.htm But angle grinders are really pretty simple, even the cheap ones usually work. (All you had to do with that masterforce was yank the cord out of the wall when you were done. :-)) The big difference maybe how long they work for, and the convenience of where the power switch is and how comfortable it is to hold and such.
  5. We live about two miles from the University of Minnesota arboretum, and I've been there many times although I've never been in the library portion and didn't realize this existed. They have a rather large collection of Nakashima furniture that was commissioned back in the 1970s. There's an article in the newspaper today talking about their annual preservation/cleaning project. There's a few pictures in there of tables and chairs in the collection. https://www.startribune.com/at-minnesota-landscape-arboretum-rare-nature-inspired-furniture-is-preserved/569867512/ Here they give some of the history... but none of the pictures are very large or detailed. https://www.arboretum.umn.edu/library_nakashimafurnishings.aspx
  6. I have a set of metal legs from Ikea which is an inner tube with an outer tube and there is a screw you tighten down to lock them in place. I think that's acceptable for metal. Mine are the old Galant system, similar to this Bekant frame... https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bekant-underframe-for-table-top-black-30252906/ But if you are using wood, then I think the wooden peg or even a steel pin with a cotter pin through holes would be better. A desk/table has a fair amount of down force, and you have to factor in someone leaning against it to reach behind for something, even sitting or standing on it. So whatever you do needs to be fairly stout. I like the idea of having different hole patterns on the outer versus inner, so you have more adjustment than just every one inch. Being able to adjust in 1/4" increments would be great, 1/2" would be acceptable. I think 1" is too granular.
  7. I still have a Jet JJP-8BT combo unit. This is what people talk about when they say don't buy a combo. From reading reviews though I think the 8" might work better than the 10", hard to say they're very similar. https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jjp-8bt-8-jointer-planer-combo/707400 It's not great, but it doesn't work too bad either... I would say it's comparable to a benchtop jointer with a planer as a bonus. It depends on what you are doing. I have been able to do quite a bit with it as a compromise. They're really common/popular in Europe... but that's the downside, parts are getting hard to come by in the US. The price of knives has shot up to $60 from Jet. ebay has sources for $20 from china. Considering they're thin and only 2 of them, they wear out fairly quickly. They can be resharpened with a jig, as it's only single sided and you have to adjust the knives manually with set screws and such. But you can't use jigs with magnets as the table is aluminum, so you use a straight edge. I got mine off Craigslist for $200... I've since replaced it with a Dewalt DW735 and Powermatic PM-54a. But I've held onto it just because I have contemplating going back to using it. Now that I bought a drum sander, and most wood I buy any more is already surfaced. I can joint longer boards with a jig on the table saw. My shop is super tiny, so... I debate keeping it. I looked into upgrading to a different combo at one point. The Rikon 25-010 is better than the Jet with a longer table but it's still a bit of a pain to switch modes. It's a consideration because it's still small and runs off 120v. There's also the Rikon 25-210H, or Jet JJP-12 which are 12" units that I've heard really good things about. They're a bit less money than the Hammer A3-31, but... if you're going to be looking at something this big I'd consider the Hammer unit.
  8. It's fascinating how every year companies increase the prices they charge. But they don't give employees raises... Where are these increased costs coming from?
  9. Yeah, these things... (uk link for op) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shop-vac-901-02-Filter-Bags-Pack/dp/B07F3CD3W8 Or they also sell the paper bags for use inside the shop-vac. I've always used those when I'm going mobile and cleaning up crap. I try to avoid having to clean the filter as it just makes a bloody mess even outdoors. Otherwise the Dust Deputy... I see it's a bit expensive in the UK(likely because it's USA made and has to be shipped), but I've had one for 9 years and had really good luck with it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone-Kit/dp/B002GZLCHM I've no experience with those knockoff cyclones.... They probably work though. The buckets that come with the dust deputy kit are thicker plastic and won't collapse under the suction. That's just something to be aware of.
  10. A little Bondo will fix that right up. What color you planning to paint this?
  11. I have a couple of those squares... also ordered from harryepstein. I have a 12" and 6" combination square. And then a 4" and 6" double square. I agree that they're quite nice. What I appreciate is they move along the ruler easily. My old big box store combo square never did. My 6" double square was also off and not square. But I was able to fix it with a small file. There was just a little extra piece of metal in the groove. You need a pretty thin file for this... Here's a video from Ben Strano using some folded up sandpaper.
  12. Actually the feature about this pro-lift I'd like most is the locking knob. I have the older Rockler lift, and as you use it, the router will change height from the vibration. Have not found a great solution, other than remembering where the wheel is pointed and constantly checking. I did tighten up the mechanism, might have to do that again. No, I think it looks really nice. If you did buy it, love to hear your impressions.