Minnesota Steve

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About Minnesota Steve

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making stuff for around the home.

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  1. Minnesota Steve

    Restoring a music box

    So I was at an estate sale yesterday, and picked up an old music box. I'm not sure how old it is, but I'm guessing maybe 30-50 years. It has plastic feet on it, and it appears the top is finished with a thick polyurethane or epoxy type finish. I just thought it was kind of pretty due to the marquetry in the top, and it has a 17 note Reuge swiss movement playing Isola di Capri. I paid $20 so it's not like I'm out a lot of money if I can't do much to it. The movement is a bit sticky, sometimes it just stops playing even though it's wound up. I thought maybe if I took it apart and cleaned it, maybe use some sewing machine oil on the shafts it'd help. But the top is pretty bad. The finish is cracked down the center, there's also a point right above the center flower where it's yellowed a bit. Not sure what happened, I suspect the box was dropped at some point or something dropped on it. It's also really dull, but I think I just need to clean it up and polish it a bit. I'm just not sure what to do with the crack. It's not real apparent in this picture, but it goes across the entire box, and you can see it along the top of the center flower. The top and sides of the box look like walnut, but when you open it up the inside of the top appears to be a mahogany. So it's clearly something covered in veneer. I don't think it would be a good idea for me to try to remove and sand the finish, as I'd risk damaging the veneer. Maybe I can just try to fill in the crack and try to polish it up? Looking for some ideas. It's also cracked on the inside, but those cracks aren't as apparent. I will say this, I thought the way the affixed the hinge was clever... the top is screwed, but the hinge is affixed to the base using nails. I believe this was done intentionally so that if the top was knocked back hard the nails would pull out rather than tearing out, allowing it to be easily repaired. Just something I noticed.
  2. Minnesota Steve

    Sawstop folding outfeed table

    Last year Sawstop came out with a number of accessories for their table saws. In particular I was interested in the Folding Outfeed Table TSA-FOT. I needed something that folded easily and was durable, and building shop furniture isn't my favorite pasttime so I was willing to buy something. I didn't take a lot of good photos of the assembly, but here are the results: Usage: So it's exceptionally portable. Once folding down it only sticks out the back a few inches. It's an ideal solution for a shop like mine where I have to pull each tool out individually. The folding part comes down with the dust port in the center which means easy storage, but it does mean you have to detach the dust hose. I use Rockler's dust right ports so that's easy enough The very rear of the outfeed table has three rollers which are mounted with bearings to help longer boards roll freely. It's the full width of the cast iron portion of the PCS saw, about 44", and it's about 32" deep which is the height of the PCS saw. The folding support legs have feet that screw out to help adjust the height. The height where it attaches to the saw is adjustable. The table itself is clamped to the rear L-bracket on the saw, and the height is adjusted by placing washers either on the top or bottom of the clamped hinge. It would be pretty tedious to do this adjustment, but fortunately the instructions lay out the appropriate combinations for the PCS or ICS saws, and I found them to be pretty spot on. Following these instructions the outfeed table ends up about 1/32nd below the cast iron top. It's well thought out, the center includes a metal plate with the sawstop logo so if you're cutting narrow boards they're supported near the blade. And using the metal lateral supports it leaves the miter slots free for using a miter gauge or sled. The specs say it'll hold 250 lbs, but since it's not really a flat table top you couldn't use this as an assembly table or anything like that. A blessing in a way, as it keeps you from piling crap on it so it's always free to fold it back down. It's well made, and follows Sawstop's tradition of having clear instructions on how to assemble. Assembly: You get 8 metal bars labeled A, 4 labeled B and 2 labeled C and then a sheet of screws and parts, and bags with the rollers and hinges. They include a couple allen keys with the kit. It requires a 10mm and 12mm wrench in addition to that. I found sometimes it helps to use a socket, sometimes a combination wrench. The one tricky part is when you assemble the bracing, the screws go down into recesses in the top members. The allen wrench has a small magnet in it which really helps with this, so you can place the screw on the wrench and then lower it into the hole. Just watch out, as about 3/4 of the way through this process the magnet came out on me and I had to get it out of the top of one of the screws and glue it back in place. It's tedious and took a couple of hours. There's probably like 60 different screws that all have to be put together and tightened. The key is to put it together snug, but wait until the very end to tighten them all, so you can shift things slightly during assembly. The only part that's really hard and you have to really make sure you have them arranged properly are the underside braces. There are two bars you assemble together and if you don't arrange them right you'll get to the last step and go wait... why is this one longer than that one. https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/TSA-FOT-OwnersManual-V13-FOR_BOX.pdf Conclusion: If you need to keep your sawstop portable, but want a decent outfeed table this is a great solution. At $300 it's not a bargain but it's worth the money in terms of the quality and thought put into the design. It's compatible with the PCS and ICS saws, as well as the Contractor(with the T-glide fence), but not the Jobsite saw. I don't know if this would work on other saws or not. In theory it might, the way it mounts to the rear L-bracket is just a clamp. But the layout and sizing is designed for use with the Sawstop table saws. So where the miter slots align, the height of the table when folded and such would need to match.
  3. Minnesota Steve

    Neat example of walnut sun fade

    While going through my father's stuff I came across this wall hanging barometer plaque he'd received as a gift from his work. My wife asked me what wood it was, and looking at it I said I thought it was walnut. But it was a very light golden brown, so she wasn't convinced. I happened to pop one of the meters out of the top, and you could see where the walnut was protected from the light.... This plaque is a good 30 years old, and it hung on the wall most of those years.
  4. Minnesota Steve

    Gas Engine Table Saw

    Yeah, that's definately a Cub... sometime from the 1940s, maybe 50s. If it was still a tractor I think it might be worth the $700 he's asking. Just not sure the engine alone is worth that.
  5. Minnesota Steve

    Trimming cabinets in place.

    I'd go with this... Empty the cabinets... remove the screws which hold the cabinets to each other(in the face frame), and then there are going to be a couple screws in the top going into studs. They're really easy to remove. We have cabinets above our washer/dryer and they're more annoying than anything. One big problem they introduce is you can't easily reach behind to shut off the water. I've been tempted to replace them with shelves.
  6. Minnesota Steve

    Moving large machines...sanity check

    Awesome... and it's nice the crate was built so you could slide the forks in lengthwise. That sure made it easier than trying to drag it through the gate.
  7. Minnesota Steve

    Gas Engine Table Saw

    I think that's the front end off an old Farmall Cub powering that.
  8. Minnesota Steve

    Screwdriver bit sets

    I have like three bits I use all the time... Phillips #2, Torx 15 and 25... and the rest I have in a jar. When I need some weird bit like a #10 security torx, I look in my jar and I probably have it. Granted, not the most efficient system...
  9. Minnesota Steve

    Table Saw! Powermatic vs. SawStop vs. your favorite!

    I have a SS PCS, and I wouldn't say it's better... It's just comparable to the pm1000, but with the hotdog sensing technology. The 30" SS fence is not very good, it's the 36"/52" that is a biesemeyer style.
  10. Minnesota Steve

    Charles Neil Finishing class

    Yeah I don't know the full story, this used to only be available through his online website. There's a mention on his facebook page that they posted this content. Maybe it's a little marketing to try to draw people over to his website? I just subscribe to his channel and saw this. He doesn't post regularly, but when he does it's great knowledge being shared.
  11. Minnesota Steve

    Stuck Chuck

    Are you using wedges? Maybe freezing spray on the arbor to shrink it slightly? https://www.crcindustries.com/products/freeze-off-174-super-penetrant-11-5-wt-oz-05002.html
  12. Minnesota Steve

    Charles Neil Finishing class

    In case nobody else saw this... Charles Neil has been posting his entire class on finishing over the last several days. There's 71 videos so far. A ton of information on spraying, wiping, brushing, sealing, sanding, filling, you name it...
  13. Minnesota Steve

    Moving large machines...sanity check

    I just thought of another way... I had a big swingset... The tower part of it was about 6'x8' and around 10' tall. It was here when we bought the house. Anyway I wanted to move it out of the way so I could rearrange the dirt in the area as I wanted to fill the swingset area with woodchips, and build gardens to the side. So I took off the beam which held the swings and built a skid out of some 4x4 timbers under the tower part... beveled off the fronts so they wouldn't dig in when I pulled it. Screwed the swing set down to it using timber bolts. And then my buddy and I pulled it with the car and a rope around the trailer hitch. That swingset probably weighed a few hundred pounds less, it was just really bulky. You could screw the pallet to some 2x4's and toss some plywood down on the ground to make it easier. Can't get the car around, but maybe a lawn tractor and a chain? Or maybe just some 2" pvc pipe under and you could push it? Well as long as you don't have any hills... then it's gonna suck.
  14. Minnesota Steve

    I need a power scrapper!

    Oh did you guys see their pulling a lot of chemical strippers from the shelves at retail outlets? Lowes, Home Depot, Sherwin Williams, Walmart are pulling anything with Methylene Chloride off the shelves.
  15. Minnesota Steve

    Table Saw! Powermatic vs. SawStop vs. your favorite!

    Wood whisperer guild has a 5% discount if you have the roubo plans.