Minnesota Steve

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About Minnesota Steve

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making stuff for around the home.

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  1. Well that's really interesting. Makes some sense. I ended up just buying the full kerf P410(Amazon had it for $70 which is a good price) and using the P410T in my Makita 10" miter saw. I gotta read through some of those other links...
  2. I'll just toss this warning out... Freud thin kerf blades have a kerf of .091"... which is too thin for the sawstop riving knife and guard. I messed up, misread the package on a Fusion P410T blade I bought last year and finally tried to use... it said 3/32" and then after it was binding up on me I saw the .091" below the 3/32".
  3. You're going to need gates to close off lines, so only one is in use at a time.
  4. There's no such thing as bad weather... only the wrong clothing. Texas on the other hand... I assume everyone just runs around nude? How else do you handle the heat?
  5. You have to experiment. You might want to look into dyes... general finishes dye stain is fairly easy to use product. I had some success using that on a maple table... another wood that doesn't take stains well. This is one of Marc's earlier videos where he talks about this. I've had good luck with the shellac seal coat as a preconditioner. But as Ronn said, you need to experiment. Make a bunch of small 4-6" scrap blocks and try different things on each and see what you like.
  6. What I did with my dust deputy is I took one of these adapters: https://www.rockler.com/rockler-2-1-2-to-2-1-4-conversion-port And put it on the inlet port of the dust deputy. I took some Gorilla tape and wrapped about 4 layers around the dust deputy port to make it a bit thicker, so I could clamp the rubber part of that conversion. But this gives you a nice 2 1/4" standard vacuum hose input that most hoses will then connect into.
  7. The Harbor Freight US General stuff is really pretty nice. I like that they have a lot of options. I'd call them one of the few gems at HF. Since I already had it... I have an older Craftsman box set... top and bottom chest, and recently bought a middle chest at Menards. My OCD was immediately activated because the new Craftsman boxes are a different shade of red. :-) My older Craftsman boxes use friction slides, the new middle chest has ball bearing slides. Anyway, I have this in my woodshop and store chisels, drill bits, screwdrivers, wrenchs and such. I also have a Husky mobile workbench out in the garage. It's smaller than what Tom linked. Home Depot is a bit weird as they have all sorts of different boxes and they vary greatly in quality and aren't consistent from one year to the next. But they seem pretty good, better than the Craftsman stuff. Menards has started carrying Craftsman boxes, and they're kind of their middle lineup. They also have a Masterforce lineup which is similar to the US General and pretty decent. And then I have my dad's tool cart. A Craftsman box from 1958. That sucker is made from like 14 gauge steel, it's ridiculously heavy built. I'm wanting to clean it up, maybe do some restoration on it. The wheels need to be checked, I think they might be rotted out.
  8. Yeah, the fan housing on the HF dust collector is definitely a 5" port, same as the output hose that goes up to the bag holder thingy. The 5" to 4" PVC adapter will probably work. Keep in mind that the OD of 4" PVC is actually 4.5", and 5" PVC is like 5.5" so it's going to run a bit larger, but it is likely flexible enough you can clamp it down hard to fit. I used one of these on my dust deputy which has a 2" OD port and it was flexible enough to clamp it down... https://www.rockler.com/rockler-2-1-2-to-2-1-4-conversion-port Worse case, you take some gorilla tape and wrap a couple layers around the port to make it thicker so the rubber PVC fitting fits better. :-) I don't think you can beat $6... but one more suggestion... that might work, but it's a leap of faith. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/oneida-air-systems-metal-straight-5in-to-4in-reducer-dust-fitting They state it's designed to fit over the 5" port of the super dust deputy to use a 4" hose... so in theory... and it's metal so with the proper hammer it might fit. :-)
  9. I believe the HF unit has a port for a 5" hose... and it comes with a y-adapter that reduces from 5" down to two 4" hoses. I have one of those unions, but I'm not sure it would expand wide enough. I can look tonight as I have the HF dust collector as well.
  10. Take a tour of some of the historical places. Like Kensington Palace, Kew Palace, Hampton Court, etc. Even the Tower of London... They have the rooms setup as they were when the kings/queens lived there...
  11. I think what you want is a wipe on poly. That's a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and poly. First clean it with a rag with just plain mineral spirits. Like Issac said, try a satin first. I would try it in a test area first to see how it works.
  12. Looks like the intention is to kill reflections. I always wondered about this with in-wall speakers. If you set a loudspeaker right up against a wall the soundwaves are going to radiate off the back wall and get really boomy. That's why floor standing speakers you usually bring them out a few feet into the room. So what he's done by building boxes to push the in-wall speakers out away from the wall a bit, and then filling the gaps between them with acoustic sound dampening boards should alleviate that problem. I actually started woodworking back in college(1990 or so) by building speakers. Used to subscribe to Speakerbuilder magazine, and was having all kinds of fun. But I was never very good at it, it was just for fun. A lot of the technology has changed since 1990 though... it's really amazing now. I have a basement theater, but it's just a 55" lcd tv with some floorstanding and wall hanging speakers i bought back in 2002. My wife would like it if I did something that was built into the walls and this whole project has given me some insight into how I might do that. I've had the tweeter blow out on my center channel twice since I owned it, and if it happens again rather than fix it again I might just replace it all.
  13. I would maybe talk to an art/craft store. You might have better luck printing something with a color laser(take it to Kinko's and make a copy) than inkjet. And inkjet photo paper I think it's coated with wax, so it might give you problems. Only say that because inkjet ink more easily dissolves. I'd say some kind of spray sealer... an acrylic or lacquer or something would be good. Maybe look into mod podge as well. I'm not an expert, I just remember it being used to glue paper and fabric down. My mother used to use it for crafts projects.
  14. I have a DW735 in my basement shop. It is really loud... It's the one tool that generates complaints from the family. There's really no way to soundproof the shop either because it's the same room as the furnace, and I think that's how the sound is traveling.
  15. To just take the edge off... a block plane or a sanding block is enough. Using a sander is hard to control. I have a 1/8" radius router bit I use if I really want to round off the edges like on a cutting board. Still it's pretty aggressive. I might pick up a 1/16" radius and see if I like that a bit better.