Minnesota Steve

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Everything posted by Minnesota Steve

  1. In the comments on that toolguyd article someone who worked at Shopvac said a few years ago they started sourcing their electric motors from China. I suspect the pandemic caused their supply chain to dry up and they didn't have parts to make any more vacuums. And nothing to fall back on. I have a shopvac I bought about 6 years back to replace another one which had died. It's already starting to make bearing noises and I was thinking about replacing it. Want something smaller and hopefully quieter. I'll have to do some research. Might just break down and buy the Festool vacuum.
  2. I have a plywood cabinet under my router... but I drilled holes in the back of the cabinet directly across from the collector port to increase air flow. I was getting a lot of pressure on the router plate such that the inner plastic ring was deforming.(I have the older Rockler lift). So doing this helped with that, as well as helped with dust collection. I put the holes down near the base of the containment area, so as to help lift any dust falling to the bottom. I just used a 1" drill bit and put in multiple holes, I just kept drilling until it felt right, think there are 4-6 ho
  3. French cleats should be screwed into the studs. Then it'll hold the weight. BTW, as far as finishes go. I've actually had better luck with wipe on finishes like Arm-r-seal from General Finishes. Less smell than the water based poly. Basically you'll just have to experiment.
  4. Bosch mrp23evs has a trigger in the handle.
  5. It mostly boils down to one of these: Pilot hole too small Pilot hole not deep enough Countersink not deep enough I found this chart to help with pilot hole sizes... hard woods require bigger pilot hole than soft woods. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx Don't use an impact driver on small screws...(anything #8 or smaller... #10 or bigger seem to handle it) use a drill/driver and set the clutch down pretty low, like a 3-5 range. Then hand screw it the rest of the way. The drivers tend to hid
  6. I flew to Philly to pick up our puppy... it was just a seat on American. I think I would have preferred a private charter. :-)
  7. That looks really nice. How heavy is it to lift up into place?
  8. I have a Makita GA4530, so it's a 4.5" runs about 6 amps, and it has the on/off switch. I've never used it for woodworking.... it's been metal and masonry. But I really wish I had a paddle and not the on/off switch. It's really important to turn the thing off when your shifting position, anytime you take your second hand off the grinder. That's a lot easier with a paddle. That's just me though. Since you must have a Menards near by given you had a masterforce. I would suggest the Metabo(formerly Hitachi). Looks like it's on say for $59 with their 11% rebate... And it's a pad
  9. We live about two miles from the University of Minnesota arboretum, and I've been there many times although I've never been in the library portion and didn't realize this existed. They have a rather large collection of Nakashima furniture that was commissioned back in the 1970s. There's an article in the newspaper today talking about their annual preservation/cleaning project. There's a few pictures in there of tables and chairs in the collection. https://www.startribune.com/at-minnesota-landscape-arboretum-rare-nature-inspired-furniture-is-preserved/569867512/ Here they give
  10. I have a set of metal legs from Ikea which is an inner tube with an outer tube and there is a screw you tighten down to lock them in place. I think that's acceptable for metal. Mine are the old Galant system, similar to this Bekant frame... https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bekant-underframe-for-table-top-black-30252906/ But if you are using wood, then I think the wooden peg or even a steel pin with a cotter pin through holes would be better. A desk/table has a fair amount of down force, and you have to factor in someone leaning against it to reach behind for something, even sitting o
  11. I still have a Jet JJP-8BT combo unit. This is what people talk about when they say don't buy a combo. From reading reviews though I think the 8" might work better than the 10", hard to say they're very similar. https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jjp-8bt-8-jointer-planer-combo/707400 It's not great, but it doesn't work too bad either... I would say it's comparable to a benchtop jointer with a planer as a bonus. It depends on what you are doing. I have been able to do quite a bit with it as a compromise. They're really common/popular in Europe... but that's the downside, pa
  12. It's fascinating how every year companies increase the prices they charge. But they don't give employees raises... Where are these increased costs coming from?
  13. Yeah, these things... (uk link for op) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shop-vac-901-02-Filter-Bags-Pack/dp/B07F3CD3W8 Or they also sell the paper bags for use inside the shop-vac. I've always used those when I'm going mobile and cleaning up crap. I try to avoid having to clean the filter as it just makes a bloody mess even outdoors. Otherwise the Dust Deputy... I see it's a bit expensive in the UK(likely because it's USA made and has to be shipped), but I've had one for 9 years and had really good luck with it. https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone-Kit/dp/B002GZLC
  14. A little Bondo will fix that right up. What color you planning to paint this?
  15. I have a couple of those squares... also ordered from harryepstein. I have a 12" and 6" combination square. And then a 4" and 6" double square. I agree that they're quite nice. What I appreciate is they move along the ruler easily. My old big box store combo square never did. My 6" double square was also off and not square. But I was able to fix it with a small file. There was just a little extra piece of metal in the groove. You need a pretty thin file for this... Here's a video from Ben Strano using some folded up sandpaper.
  16. Actually the feature about this pro-lift I'd like most is the locking knob. I have the older Rockler lift, and as you use it, the router will change height from the vibration. Have not found a great solution, other than remembering where the wheel is pointed and constantly checking. I did tighten up the mechanism, might have to do that again. No, I think it looks really nice. If you did buy it, love to hear your impressions.
  17. I can't find particularly good article on this, but over at toolguyd last month they reviewed a new Dewalt jobsite saw and there was mention that there has been a change to the regulations mandating a minimum table size to blade size ratio. https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-jobsite-table-saw-dwe7485-022020/ That was always the problem I had with the DWE7480 I had from Dewalt... the short distance made it hard to do a crosscut. This regulation change might explain why Sawstop revised their jobsite saw this past year as well as the new saw has a deeper table. Well the new dwe7485 now
  18. Which LED fixtures? I bought one of the Smart Electrician tread plate lights.... but I haven't tried an FM radio around it yet. I like that it's bright but it doesn't blind me, so was thinking about getting a couple more. But maybe I should try this.
  19. I like that. I want to tweak my router table. I just have a enclosure on the top part and a drawer in the bottom... and I use the area with the router in it to store jigs and feather boards because there's so much extra room, but then they get all covered in dust. Want to make the portion with the router smaller and fix the dust collection and then do some stuff on the side. Maybe I can just add some compartments on the side to hang the jigs like you did.
  20. I would design and plan with a confidence level... If you buy a 12/4 board there's a best guess as to what thickness you're going to get out of it... Something like this: 2.25" thick = 100% confidence 2.5" thick = 90% confidence 2.75" thick = 60% confidence 2.9" thick = 25% confidence