Minnesota Steve

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Posts posted by Minnesota Steve

  1. Interesting.   I'm actually a fan of the wire shelving.   Before wire shelving what we had was wood supports like that This Old House video, with a piece of plywood or particle board shelving placed on top.   That's what I grew up with and I really hated it.   The shelves sagged, and would get old and dusty/musty smelling over time.   Wire is far superior to that.

    In our bedroom closet, we have this style, which is made by Rubbermaid.  It's called FreeSlide. The rod extends all the way down, making it easy to push clothes around.   I'm not a fan of the Closetmaid solution for this, which involves plastic clips and a rod bar that isn't as solid.   I used this same stuff in our previous house, and love it.

    Rubbermaid FreeSlide 12 in x 4 ft White Wire Wardrobe Shelf

    In pantries you want the tight mesh variety.   It holds more weight, and things don't tip over between the bars.   I'll even put plastic shelf liner down, as it makes it easier to push cans around and such.

    I've long preferred the Rubbermaid shelving.   Closetmaid is good for pantries, just don't like their bedroom closet solution.  Otherwise the brackets and clips are pretty universal.   Menards used to sell Rubbermaid, but now I have to go to Fleet Farm.  The brand Containerstore sells is Elfa which is very high quality. 

    The Elfa stuff... as far as DIY closet systems is really good.   It is more expensive.   The Containerstore will help you design what you need, etc.   If I was going to do that, and not build it myself like what Chestnut did, that's probably where I'd look.


  2. You know as far as fuel cans go, I really like the No-Spill cans I have.   I have a 1.25 and a 2.5 for gas in my JD X370, Honda HRX and Snowblower..   But they do make 5 gallon jugs as well.


    The only downside is they work great for fuel caps on top, like what you see in lawn equipment.   But not so great trying to pour gas into a car from the side.   It can be done, but it'd be easier with a longer spout.

    But yeah, when we first moved to this property I had one of those cheap cans from Home Depot, and was so frustrated with it, I went out looking for something better which is how I found the No-Spill at Ace.



  3. I've only ever seen 5mm and 1/4" shelf pins, and I always thought that was confusing enough.  Is there a brand for these cabinets?   Where are you buying the replacement pins?

    It could be your plastic pins are a bit oversized for a 1/4" hole.   5/16" would be about 7.9mm... I've seen them where they have little ridges and they're designed to bite into the wood.  They're always a pain to get in new, have to pound them in.  It could be that your holes have become wallowed out and the pins aren't going in solidly and that's why they're breaking on you.

    They do make shelf pin sleeves.   You'd have to look at what size those require.   If they don't fit snuggly, you might be able to glue the sleeves in place with epoxy, although you may have to use a drill bit to clear out the hole after the epoxy is cured.

    One thing I did find while searching amazon were metric dowel pins... An M8 size would be 8mm... maybe that's what you are looking for?

    Still is seems strange they aren't one of the standard 5mm or 1/4".



  4. Merrell has a wide variety of slip on shoes.   I have a pair of Jungle Mocs and use them for walking the dog and such.   Easy to slip on, and comfortable.   But the specific shoe is maybe going to depend on what you want as they have different soles, waterproof or not, etc.


    Now I also have a pair of Merrell Moab 2's like BonPacific mentioned and they're awesome and have good support.   But the Jungle Mocs didn't have very good support, so...

    If you are looking for better arch support then... Superfeet insoles.  I had a guy at the shoe store recommend them to me, and I was skeptical but they have been awesome.  They have survived multiple shoes for me... I just swap them as I get new shoes.   The Green ones are kind of the general purpose ones and I have them in my Jungle Mocs.   They were like $30 when I bought 'em, but worth every penny.



    Oh yeah and since I've gotten lazy in my old age(Just joined AARP this year!), there is nothing like a long shoe horn!  So I can put my slip on shoes without having to bend over.   We buy them at Ikea, but you can also find steel ones online.



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  5. I may have to try that impeller.   Thanks for that tip.

    So I've modified mine in two ways...

    First, got this Powertec 1 micron filter bag.   It's big heavy felt and has worked a lot better than the bag that came with it.


    Then I just tried this trick from Stumpy Nubs...  Instead of clamps, I drilled some holes into the bottom sides of the bucket and used some bungee cords to hold down the cover.   I have not yet filled it with sawdust yet to see how much of a mess I make emptying the bag.   But it has GOT to be better than trying to put the bag and clamp back on the bottom.


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  6. 3 hours ago, Chet said:

    We tried two top review brands and were real disappointed with how fast they degraded for the price paid.  We went with one in the same price range, I think just a touch over $150, as your new one and it has already given us half the service life as the ones we paid 5X the price.

    I've been happy with my Dysons.   I still have the DC07 I bought back in 2004, and the only thing I've had to do is replace a belt and take the canister apart and clean it really well.   We like the bagless because we have pets.   But if you don't fill the bags up regularly with fur, I'd prefer a bag.

    I don't know if the new Dysons are quite as well made as they used to be.   But the new cordless vacs intrigue me.   Thought they might be nice for cleaning the staircase and our main level which is mostly hardwood floors.   Haven't bought one yet, maybe in a year or two.   We'll see.

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  7. I just stopped in at my local Rockler... guess I hadn't noticed this last time I was there a month or two back... but yeah they had Festool on the back wall.

    This might have something to do with Festool buying Sawstop... Rockler sells a lot of Sawstop.

  8. On 10/27/2020 at 9:07 PM, pkinneb said:

    Got my ISOtunes bluetooth earmuffs. Probably won't use them in the shop but for yardwork they will be great tried them out with the blower today and they work well.



    So that was my Christmas gift to myself and they came in the mail just last week.  I think they're decent.   The sound quality is good enough.   They're rugged and fairly comfortable.   I'm glad they are making a muff, as I really don't like sticking things in my ears.

    I may end up buying a pair for doing yardwork.   Or maybe I'll get some 3M worktunes to see how they compare.






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  9. On 12/11/2020 at 1:11 PM, Chestnut said:

    I find it baffling that it is sold by a fairly reputable company. Infinity tools is not a no-name backwoods woodworking company.

    There was a link shared in an eralier posrt. https://www.infinitytools.com/small-workpiece-holder?utm_source=remarkety&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Wed 12%2F9&utm_content=&_rmId=ZobNddwOZ8fqQpAngbdWIMK9po27PvFWDM0qd85WI0Bp1


    Accidentally came across it on Eagle America's website as well...





  10. 1 hour ago, Tpt life said:

    Miter gauges cannot use the fence. Not sure how critical that is. Just answering your question. 

    Yeah, but the fence isn't being used to cut a piece to a particular length.   So there's really no need for the fence.

    All it seems to be doing is cutting it at an angle.   I'm just totally confused.


  11. In the comments on that toolguyd article someone who worked at Shopvac said a few years ago they started sourcing their electric motors from China.   I suspect the pandemic caused their supply chain to dry up and they didn't have parts to make any more vacuums.   And nothing to fall back on.

    I have a shopvac I bought about 6 years back to replace another one which had died.   It's already starting to make bearing noises and I was thinking about replacing it.   Want something smaller and hopefully quieter.   I'll have to do some research.   Might just break down and buy the Festool vacuum.   Looks like they have a new CT 15 that's $350... doesn't have some of the convenience features but if it sucks and is quiet I'd be ok with it.

  12. 8 hours ago, SawDustB said:

    I'm trying to figure out how to get more airflow. Right now I can tell that the dust collector is a bit starved for air. Has anyone else added holes to their router plate? I've just got the standard kreg one. The other option is that I add an opening on the right side, to get some cross breeze in the container.



    I have a plywood cabinet under my router... but I drilled holes in the back of the cabinet directly across from the collector port to increase air flow.

    I was getting a lot of pressure on the router plate such that the inner plastic ring was deforming.(I have the older Rockler lift).   So doing this helped with that, as well as helped with dust collection.   I put the holes down near the base of the containment area, so as to help lift any dust falling to the bottom.

    I just used a 1" drill bit and put in multiple holes, I just kept drilling until it felt right, think there are 4-6 holes in there now.   It wouldn't be hard to do that with the plastic tub.   Commercial offerings have adjustable ports... So you need a way to plug them up if you have too many.   With the plastic tub you could just use an easily removable tape, or put some sort of slider on there.




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  13. French cleats should be screwed into the studs.   Then it'll hold the weight.

    BTW, as far as finishes go.   I've actually had better luck with wipe on finishes like Arm-r-seal from General Finishes.   Less smell than the water based poly.   Basically you'll just have to experiment.


  14. It mostly boils down to one of these:

    • Pilot hole too small
    • Pilot hole not deep enough
    • Countersink not deep enough

    I found this chart to help with pilot hole sizes... hard woods require bigger pilot hole than soft woods.



    Don't use an impact driver on small screws...(anything #8 or smaller... #10 or bigger seem to handle it) use a drill/driver and set the clutch down pretty low, like a 3-5 range.   Then hand screw it the rest of the way.    The drivers tend to hide the fact that the screw is binding.   That's why the clutch is nice, especially set towards lower range.   If it's hard to hand screw, then check your pilot hole as above.

    You can also put a bit of wax on the screw, just rub it on a piece of paraffin or beeswax.   That reduces the friction, makes it easier.

    I've had really good experience with these pre-lubed screws I buy at Rockler.   They're very high quality and work well.



  15. I have a Makita GA4530, so it's a 4.5" runs about 6 amps, and it has the on/off switch.  I've never used it for woodworking.... it's been metal and masonry.   But I really wish I had a paddle and not the on/off switch.  It's really important to turn the thing off when your shifting position, anytime you take your second hand off the grinder.   That's a lot easier with a paddle.   That's just me though.

    Since you must have a Menards near by given you had a masterforce.   I would suggest the Metabo(formerly Hitachi).   Looks like it's on say for $59 with their 11% rebate...   And it's a paddle switch.   They ought to have one on display you can hold and see if you like the feel.


    But angle grinders are really pretty simple, even the cheap ones usually work.   (All you had to do with that masterforce was yank the cord out of the wall when you were done. :-))  The big difference maybe how long they work for, and the convenience of where the power switch is and how comfortable it is to hold and such.




  16. We live about two miles from the University of Minnesota arboretum, and I've been there many times although I've never been in the library portion and didn't realize this existed.  They have a rather large collection of Nakashima furniture that was commissioned back in the 1970s.   There's an article in the newspaper today talking about their annual preservation/cleaning project.   There's a few pictures in there of tables and chairs in the collection.



    The size and quality of the library’s assembly of 80-some tables, chairs and other pieces make it especially rare, said Timothy Andreadis, head of 20th-century design at Freeman’s, a Philadelphia-based auction house known for reselling Nakashima works. “It’s really quite an extraordinary grouping of Nakashima’s pieces, and it certainly is one of the best public collections,” Andreadis said.

    Here they give some of the history... but none of the pictures are very large or detailed.



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