Minnesota Steve

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Posts posted by Minnesota Steve

  1. In the comments on that toolguyd article someone who worked at Shopvac said a few years ago they started sourcing their electric motors from China.   I suspect the pandemic caused their supply chain to dry up and they didn't have parts to make any more vacuums.   And nothing to fall back on.

    I have a shopvac I bought about 6 years back to replace another one which had died.   It's already starting to make bearing noises and I was thinking about replacing it.   Want something smaller and hopefully quieter.   I'll have to do some research.   Might just break down and buy the Festool vacuum.   Looks like they have a new CT 15 that's $350... doesn't have some of the convenience features but if it sucks and is quiet I'd be ok with it.

  2. 8 hours ago, SawDustB said:

    I'm trying to figure out how to get more airflow. Right now I can tell that the dust collector is a bit starved for air. Has anyone else added holes to their router plate? I've just got the standard kreg one. The other option is that I add an opening on the right side, to get some cross breeze in the container.

     

     

    I have a plywood cabinet under my router... but I drilled holes in the back of the cabinet directly across from the collector port to increase air flow.

    I was getting a lot of pressure on the router plate such that the inner plastic ring was deforming.(I have the older Rockler lift).   So doing this helped with that, as well as helped with dust collection.   I put the holes down near the base of the containment area, so as to help lift any dust falling to the bottom.

    I just used a 1" drill bit and put in multiple holes, I just kept drilling until it felt right, think there are 4-6 holes in there now.   It wouldn't be hard to do that with the plastic tub.   Commercial offerings have adjustable ports... So you need a way to plug them up if you have too many.   With the plastic tub you could just use an easily removable tape, or put some sort of slider on there.

     

     

     

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  3. French cleats should be screwed into the studs.   Then it'll hold the weight.

    BTW, as far as finishes go.   I've actually had better luck with wipe on finishes like Arm-r-seal from General Finishes.   Less smell than the water based poly.   Basically you'll just have to experiment.

     

  4. It mostly boils down to one of these:

    • Pilot hole too small
    • Pilot hole not deep enough
    • Countersink not deep enough

    I found this chart to help with pilot hole sizes... hard woods require bigger pilot hole than soft woods.

    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx

     

    Don't use an impact driver on small screws...(anything #8 or smaller... #10 or bigger seem to handle it) use a drill/driver and set the clutch down pretty low, like a 3-5 range.   Then hand screw it the rest of the way.    The drivers tend to hide the fact that the screw is binding.   That's why the clutch is nice, especially set towards lower range.   If it's hard to hand screw, then check your pilot hole as above.

    You can also put a bit of wax on the screw, just rub it on a piece of paraffin or beeswax.   That reduces the friction, makes it easier.

    I've had really good experience with these pre-lubed screws I buy at Rockler.   They're very high quality and work well.

    https://www.rockler.com/8-square-drive-lube-finished-screws-number-8-screws

     

  5. I have a Makita GA4530, so it's a 4.5" runs about 6 amps, and it has the on/off switch.  I've never used it for woodworking.... it's been metal and masonry.   But I really wish I had a paddle and not the on/off switch.  It's really important to turn the thing off when your shifting position, anytime you take your second hand off the grinder.   That's a lot easier with a paddle.   That's just me though.

    Since you must have a Menards near by given you had a masterforce.   I would suggest the Metabo(formerly Hitachi).   Looks like it's on say for $59 with their 11% rebate...   And it's a paddle switch.   They ought to have one on display you can hold and see if you like the feel.

    https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/grinders/metabo-hpt-reg-7-4-amp-corded-4-1-2-paddle-switch-angle-grinder/g12sq2m/p-1553063441961-c-9075.htm

    But angle grinders are really pretty simple, even the cheap ones usually work.   (All you had to do with that masterforce was yank the cord out of the wall when you were done. :-))  The big difference maybe how long they work for, and the convenience of where the power switch is and how comfortable it is to hold and such.

     

     

     

  6. We live about two miles from the University of Minnesota arboretum, and I've been there many times although I've never been in the library portion and didn't realize this existed.  They have a rather large collection of Nakashima furniture that was commissioned back in the 1970s.   There's an article in the newspaper today talking about their annual preservation/cleaning project.   There's a few pictures in there of tables and chairs in the collection.

    https://www.startribune.com/at-minnesota-landscape-arboretum-rare-nature-inspired-furniture-is-preserved/569867512/

    Quote

    The size and quality of the library’s assembly of 80-some tables, chairs and other pieces make it especially rare, said Timothy Andreadis, head of 20th-century design at Freeman’s, a Philadelphia-based auction house known for reselling Nakashima works. “It’s really quite an extraordinary grouping of Nakashima’s pieces, and it certainly is one of the best public collections,” Andreadis said.

    Here they give some of the history... but none of the pictures are very large or detailed.

    https://www.arboretum.umn.edu/library_nakashimafurnishings.aspx

    AndersenHorticulturalLibrary_web.jpg

    • Like 2
  7. I have a set of metal legs from Ikea which is an inner tube with an outer tube and there is a screw you tighten down to lock them in place.   I think that's acceptable for metal.   Mine are the old Galant system, similar to this Bekant frame... https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bekant-underframe-for-table-top-black-30252906/

    But if you are using wood, then I think the wooden peg or even a steel pin with a cotter pin through holes would be better.      A desk/table has a fair amount of down force, and you have to factor in someone leaning against it to reach behind for something, even sitting or standing on it.   So whatever you do needs to be fairly stout.

    I like the idea of having different hole patterns on the outer versus inner, so you have more adjustment than just every one inch.   Being able to adjust in 1/4" increments would be great, 1/2" would be acceptable.   I think 1" is too granular.

  8. I still have a Jet JJP-8BT combo unit.   This is what people talk about when they say don't buy a combo.   From reading reviews though I think the 8" might work better than the 10", hard to say they're very similar.

    https://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jjp-8bt-8-jointer-planer-combo/707400

    It's not great, but it doesn't work too bad either...  I would say it's comparable to a benchtop jointer with a planer as a bonus.  It depends on what you are doing.   I have been able to do quite a bit with it as a compromise.

    They're really common/popular in Europe... but that's the downside, parts are getting hard to come by in the US.   The price of knives has shot up to $60 from Jet.   ebay has sources for $20 from china.   Considering they're thin and only 2 of them, they wear out fairly quickly.   They can be resharpened with a jig, as it's only single sided and you have to adjust the knives manually with set screws and such.   But you can't use jigs with magnets as the table is aluminum, so you use a straight edge.

    I got mine off Craigslist for $200... I've since replaced it with a Dewalt DW735 and Powermatic PM-54a.   But I've held onto it just because I have contemplating going back to using it.   Now that I bought a drum sander, and most wood I buy any more is already surfaced.   I can joint longer boards with a jig on the table saw.   My shop is super tiny, so... I debate keeping it.

    I looked into upgrading to a different combo at one point.   The Rikon 25-010 is better than the Jet with a longer table but it's still a bit of a pain to switch modes.   It's a consideration because it's still small and runs off 120v.

    There's also the Rikon 25-210H, or Jet JJP-12 which are 12" units that I've heard really good things about.   They're a bit less money than the Hammer A3-31, but... if you're going to be looking at something this big I'd consider the Hammer unit.

     

  9. 8 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Even without a cyclone separator, adding a bag filter to your vac saves replacing the more expensive pleated filter so often.

    Yeah, these things... (uk link for op)

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shop-vac-901-02-Filter-Bags-Pack/dp/B07F3CD3W8

    Or they also sell the paper bags for use inside the shop-vac.   I've always used those when I'm going mobile and cleaning up crap.   I try to avoid having to clean the filter as it just makes a bloody mess even outdoors.

    Otherwise the Dust Deputy...   I see it's a bit expensive in the UK(likely because it's USA made and has to be shipped), but I've had one for 9 years and had really good luck with it.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone-Kit/dp/B002GZLCHM

    I've no experience with those knockoff cyclones.... They probably work though.   The buckets that come with the dust deputy kit are thicker plastic and won't collapse under the suction.   That's just something to be aware of.

  10. I have a couple of those squares... also ordered from harryepstein.  I have a 12" and 6" combination square.   And then a 4" and 6" double square.   I agree that they're quite nice.   What I appreciate is they move along the ruler easily.   My old big box store combo square never did.

    My 6" double square was also off and not square.   But I was able to fix it with a small file.   There was just a little extra piece of metal in the groove.   You need a pretty thin file for this... Here's a video from Ben Strano using some folded up sandpaper.

     

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  11. Actually the feature about this pro-lift I'd like most is the locking knob.   I have the older Rockler lift, and as you use it, the router will change height from the vibration. Have not found a great solution, other than remembering where the wheel is pointed and constantly checking.   I did tighten up the mechanism, might have to do that again.

    No, I think it looks really nice.   If you did buy it, love to hear your impressions.

  12. I can't find particularly good article on this, but over at toolguyd last month they reviewed a new Dewalt jobsite saw and there was mention that there has been a change to the regulations mandating a minimum table size to blade size ratio.

    https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-jobsite-table-saw-dwe7485-022020/

     That was always the problem I had with the DWE7480 I had from Dewalt... the short distance made it hard to do a crosscut.   This regulation change might explain why Sawstop revised their jobsite saw this past year as well as the new saw has a deeper table.

    Well the new dwe7485 now uses an 8-1/4" blade.  That's also what they used on their flexvolt table saw.     I believe this is a European spec 210mm blade.   I know Makita has had a SCM using this size blade for some time.   So we'll probably see more equipment coming to market using this blade size.

    Anyway apparently the Dw745 and other jobsite saws with 10" blades are being clearanced out.

     

    • Like 2
  13. 3 hours ago, GRADALL77 said:

    Last week I replaced 9 fluorescent fixtures in my shop with 9 LED fixtures from Menards and my FM stereo is useless. I turn the lights off. and it is fine. I put ferrite chokes on the power, speaker and antenna cables but did not help.

    Which LED fixtures?

    I bought one of the Smart Electrician tread plate lights.... but I haven't tried an FM radio around it yet.   I like that it's bright but it doesn't blind me, so was thinking about getting a couple more.   But maybe I should try this.

  14. I like that.

    I want to tweak my router table.   I just have a enclosure on the top part and a drawer in the bottom... and I use the area with the router in it to store jigs and feather boards because there's so much extra room, but then they get all covered in dust. :)

    Want to make the portion with the router smaller and fix the dust collection and then do some stuff on the side.   Maybe I can just add some compartments on the side to hang the jigs like you did.

  15. 2 hours ago, Mark J said:

    And I'm not complaining, just trying to figure out what to expect, so I can design and plan accordingly.  

    I would design and plan with a confidence level...   If you buy a 12/4 board there's a best guess as to what thickness you're going to get out of it...   Something like this:

    2.25" thick = 100% confidence
    2.5" thick = 90% confidence
    2.75" thick = 60% confidence
    2.9" thick = 25% confidence

     

     

    • Like 1