Dave Trendymiddlename Starr

Members
  • Content Count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Dave Trendymiddlename Starr

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    cgfh

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, the design will be similar to this one, so the hinges will be plenty exposed. lol The knobs I like are these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQ6FJLJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2 And the best hinges I've found are these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F0APZW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1 I definitely like the knobs, but I'm not entirely sold on the hinges yet. I'm still looking, but that's the best style I've found so far. Even ignoring the brushed-versus-polished problem, I'm having trouble finding particularly interesting hinges in brass. The breadbox example I posted is an Amish design, and my design will be mostly similar. I'm hoping to learn more modern, but the hinges are kind of making-or-breaking that design goal, it seems. The knob's a good example of what I'm hoping to achieve. Simple, clean, a bit minimalist. But trying to find a brass hinge that matches has been a challenge thusfar. There's plenty of these kinds of hinges to be found, but... well, usually less is more, but that particular version of less is just less.
  2. I'm designing a breadbox that will be made of walnut and use brass hinges and hardware. I've found the hinges I like, and I've found the knobs I like. Problem is, one is brushed brass, the other is polished brass. Is using both brushed and polished brass in a project as bad an idea as I think it is, or does it end up looking alright? Thanks!
  3. I'm in southwest Wisconsin, and the biggest problem is that there are a lot of lumber yards around here, but they all are only open for business 8-4 M-F, at best, which means I'd have to take time off of work to get lumber, which effectively makes that lumber a lot more expensive. Outside of those, I see some hits that are 2'ish hours away that I could get to on the weekend. But then the cost of gas plus the time investment of going 2 hours there and 2 hours back, all that wood gets mighty expensive, too. So paying for shipping may inflate the cost, but at least I can have more time to invest in making that extra cost back.
  4. I live in a part of Wisconsin where it's real hard to get wood that isn't pine or red oak. I'd like to get a hold of some nice figured maple or some zebrawood, and really the only way I'm getting that around here is by ordering online. Does anyone have any experience with buying lumber online? I'm seeing a few websites that post pictures of the specific boards you'd be buying, which is nice. But I'm worried about wood movement, like, I can order S4S but what are the odds of it cupping, bowing, or twisting and needing to be resurfaced again by the time it gets to me? Which I can't do, I don't have a jointer or planer yet. Plus, shipping damages could be a whole different problem. Anyone have any experiences to share? Thanks!
  5. Nope, not yet, but it's this week's project. So, if I don't do an awful job, I'll post the results here later this week. lol
  6. Oh yeah, I'm just gonna lay down some newspaper, wear some gloves and old clothes, break out some paper towels, and throw away everything the ink touches that isn't the project itself. I'm well aware of india ink's reputation for being the messiest substance on earth. lol
  7. Okay, terrific, thank you. This is my first foray into gilding, so I just didn't know how much I didn't know, lol. This is going to be a 6x6" piece of purpleheart with the outline of a heart engraved in it and gilded with "silver" leaf. And the outline is going to be... maybe 3/8" at the widest part, tops. So I'm not worried about grain. I've been meaning to experiment with using india ink to dye wood, as well. Maybe I'll do a double-experiment and make a small piece dyed black with a "gold" leaf engraved design of some sort before moving on to the real piece. Thanks!
  8. Yeah, I'd be using artificial stuff. And I wouldn't say this isn't meant to last a long time, it would be neat if some day our kids could use these at their weddings, too, y'know? And would I be sealing just the gilding? And if so, supposing the wood is already finished, is there a way to seal the entire thing afterwards, and/or is there any benefit to doing so?
  9. I was definitely going to go with the Mona Lisa metal leaf adhesive, but the reviews about the sealer dulling steered me away from that part. But, hearing that negative reviews could be because of improper use is not a surprising thing to hear about the internet. I suppose I'll give it a shot, it's not expensive. Any suggestions on what kind of brush to use when applying the adhesive/sealer? I'll be picking up a gilder's mop, but I imagine that brush is supposed to stay dry.
  10. Hello, everyone. I'm working on table numbers for a wedding, and I want to engrave the numbers in wood, and then apply some silver leaf in the engraved letters. I'm doing some research, but I'm getting a bit confused about the order of operations here. Here's what I think is the procedure: 1) Cut wood blank to size, sand it, stain it, finish it 2) Mask entire finished surface with painters tape or similar 3) Engrave the numbers into the masked surface with a router or such 4) Leaving the masking on, apply metal adhesive, later add silver leaf And then this is where I'm not sure how to finish it. I've seen some metal sealers for gilding on Amazon, but a lot of folk say it really dulls the metal. So, is there an alternative way to seal the silver leaf? Would I remove the masking and seal the entire thing, or just seal the silver leaf with the masking still on? Or have I got the process all wrong from the start and there's a better way to do it? Thanks!
  11. Well, the customer wants to keep the price as low as possible. So $5 hinges are about all that's in the budget.
  12. Here's the design. I intend to mortise them into the top and carcass. One wing of the hinge will be screwed into the face of the plywood top, the other wing will be screwed into a 2.5" pine rail. I don't know if there's a better way to do it, but I know I'm at least not screwing into endgrain or anything.
  13. Hello. I'm building a blanket chest and I'm not sure how serious a hinge I would need for the lid. The lid will be 3/4" plywood measuring 46" x 20". Quarter-sheet, basically. Will a pair of these hinges suffice? http://www.rockler.com/flat-tipped-butt-hinges-w-removable-pin Thanks!
  14. Also, this is how I intend to join the corners of the desk. 3/4" steel or aluminum rods, 6" long each, three epoxied into one side of the joint, two epoxied into the other. Then on the underside, some small steel brackets in place only to prevent the joint from working itself loose. I've never done this before, but I feel like this should work. So yeah, everything else is pretty well figured-out, I think. Except how to attach the darn corner leg. lol
  15. Yeah, my current desk is a corner desk from Ikea. It's a 3/4" solid top supported by three trestle legs, one left, right, and in the back corner. And it's surprisingly stable. Especially in regards to the inside corner which doesn't have any support underneath it, there's no flex or anything. Perfectly stable. My design has much better support at the left and right and the top is 1 1/2" inches versus 3/4", so it should be even more stable. So I'm not concerned about the unsupported inside corner.