Dave Trendymiddlename Starr

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  1. I used to buy the disposable 3M N95 masks for woodworking. I've been subsisting on a three-pack I bought last year. But my last mask is just about spent, and obviously these days N95s are difficult to find and are best reserved for use by health care workers. That all being the case, I don't know what to replace it with. What do you folk use these days? Thanks!
  2. I've got some money saved up for a benchtop planer. And while the DeWalts are pretty ubiquitous, I'm not entirely sold on the idea that they're the best. For instance, the Grizzly G0889 has a three-blade cutterhead, the blades can be sharpened rather than replaced, it has a cutterhead lock, and is only $400. Not only does it seem to be better in a lot of ways, it's also cheaper. I can put that saved money towards a small jointer. Are the DeWalt benchtop planers really the best bang for the buck? Or are there better alternatives out there?
  3. Ah, you know, I didn't joint the factory edge of the cutting board first. That's gotta be it. Probably wasn't straight to begin with. Duh. Thanks for the Woodworking 101 reminder! lol palm ---> forehead
  4. I was making some miter slot runners out of a plastic cutting board today, and I was getting some weirdness in my cuts. Using my calipers to measure the strips of plastic I was cutting, the front of the strip and the back were only off by about 0.05mm in thickness, which I can live with. But for some reason, all the strips get narrower in the middle, by as much as half a millimeter. Which, on miter slot runners, means there's some wiggle to them until both the front and back edges are in the slot, which I'd really like to eliminate. But I'm not sure what would cause a ripped piece to be essentially equal in width at the start and finish, but be narrower in the middle. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  5. Well, the design will be similar to this one, so the hinges will be plenty exposed. lol The knobs I like are these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQ6FJLJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2 And the best hinges I've found are these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F0APZW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1 I definitely like the knobs, but I'm not entirely sold on the hinges yet. I'm still looking, but that's the best style I've found so far. Even ignoring the brushed-versus-polished problem, I'm having trouble finding particularly interesting hinges in brass. The breadbox example I posted is an Amish design, and my design will be mostly similar. I'm hoping to learn more modern, but the hinges are kind of making-or-breaking that design goal, it seems. The knob's a good example of what I'm hoping to achieve. Simple, clean, a bit minimalist. But trying to find a brass hinge that matches has been a challenge thusfar. There's plenty of these kinds of hinges to be found, but... well, usually less is more, but that particular version of less is just less.
  6. I'm designing a breadbox that will be made of walnut and use brass hinges and hardware. I've found the hinges I like, and I've found the knobs I like. Problem is, one is brushed brass, the other is polished brass. Is using both brushed and polished brass in a project as bad an idea as I think it is, or does it end up looking alright? Thanks!
  7. I'm in southwest Wisconsin, and the biggest problem is that there are a lot of lumber yards around here, but they all are only open for business 8-4 M-F, at best, which means I'd have to take time off of work to get lumber, which effectively makes that lumber a lot more expensive. Outside of those, I see some hits that are 2'ish hours away that I could get to on the weekend. But then the cost of gas plus the time investment of going 2 hours there and 2 hours back, all that wood gets mighty expensive, too. So paying for shipping may inflate the cost, but at least I can have more time to invest in making that extra cost back.
  8. I live in a part of Wisconsin where it's real hard to get wood that isn't pine or red oak. I'd like to get a hold of some nice figured maple or some zebrawood, and really the only way I'm getting that around here is by ordering online. Does anyone have any experience with buying lumber online? I'm seeing a few websites that post pictures of the specific boards you'd be buying, which is nice. But I'm worried about wood movement, like, I can order S4S but what are the odds of it cupping, bowing, or twisting and needing to be resurfaced again by the time it gets to me? Which I can't do, I don't have a jointer or planer yet. Plus, shipping damages could be a whole different problem. Anyone have any experiences to share? Thanks!
  9. Nope, not yet, but it's this week's project. So, if I don't do an awful job, I'll post the results here later this week. lol
  10. Oh yeah, I'm just gonna lay down some newspaper, wear some gloves and old clothes, break out some paper towels, and throw away everything the ink touches that isn't the project itself. I'm well aware of india ink's reputation for being the messiest substance on earth. lol
  11. Okay, terrific, thank you. This is my first foray into gilding, so I just didn't know how much I didn't know, lol. This is going to be a 6x6" piece of purpleheart with the outline of a heart engraved in it and gilded with "silver" leaf. And the outline is going to be... maybe 3/8" at the widest part, tops. So I'm not worried about grain. I've been meaning to experiment with using india ink to dye wood, as well. Maybe I'll do a double-experiment and make a small piece dyed black with a "gold" leaf engraved design of some sort before moving on to the real piece. Thanks!
  12. Yeah, I'd be using artificial stuff. And I wouldn't say this isn't meant to last a long time, it would be neat if some day our kids could use these at their weddings, too, y'know? And would I be sealing just the gilding? And if so, supposing the wood is already finished, is there a way to seal the entire thing afterwards, and/or is there any benefit to doing so?
  13. I was definitely going to go with the Mona Lisa metal leaf adhesive, but the reviews about the sealer dulling steered me away from that part. But, hearing that negative reviews could be because of improper use is not a surprising thing to hear about the internet. I suppose I'll give it a shot, it's not expensive. Any suggestions on what kind of brush to use when applying the adhesive/sealer? I'll be picking up a gilder's mop, but I imagine that brush is supposed to stay dry.
  14. Hello, everyone. I'm working on table numbers for a wedding, and I want to engrave the numbers in wood, and then apply some silver leaf in the engraved letters. I'm doing some research, but I'm getting a bit confused about the order of operations here. Here's what I think is the procedure: 1) Cut wood blank to size, sand it, stain it, finish it 2) Mask entire finished surface with painters tape or similar 3) Engrave the numbers into the masked surface with a router or such 4) Leaving the masking on, apply metal adhesive, later add silver leaf And then this is where I'm not sure how to finish it. I've seen some metal sealers for gilding on Amazon, but a lot of folk say it really dulls the metal. So, is there an alternative way to seal the silver leaf? Would I remove the masking and seal the entire thing, or just seal the silver leaf with the masking still on? Or have I got the process all wrong from the start and there's a better way to do it? Thanks!
  15. Well, the customer wants to keep the price as low as possible. So $5 hinges are about all that's in the budget.