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About Chud

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Dorset, UK
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture and general carpentry

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  1. Chud

    What Saw?

    Was about to suggest this - the gyokucho ones are pretty solid.
  2. So a quick update on's all glued up, going to give it a session with the ROS and a couple of coats of the OSMO deck oil and I'll be hanging it sometime this week: Mortises cut, roughing out the tenons for the bars/spindles (45 x 45mm spindles left over from decking) Spindle tenons cut - getting ready to lay out for the lap joints between the spindles and diagonal brace Lap joints cut, now a dry fit to check everything goes together (gate upside down as easier to put together this way) The need for speed - all glued up, used PU glue but even then could have done with a bit more open time! (gate flipped right way up after gluing) Quick clean up of squeeze/foam out and trim off excess on draw bore dowels It's not the prettiest or neatest but I'm pretty pleased with it given the tools available (no table saw or jointer/planer) and that it was effectively made with left-over wood - I think the whole thing cost about £2 in the end (apart from time of course!)
  3. I think Paul Seller's YouTube channel is going to be your friend - he seems to do most stuff without power tools (where feasible)!
  4. Another metaller here - listen to some 80's, 90's and later stuff - currently very much into Twelve Foot Ninja which describe themselves as Fusion Metal - they're a bit mad: Also on my current list is some SikTh - although their new song is like a metal version of 'Randy Newman sings what he sees' from Family Guy...
  5. Cheers - we went through nearly their whole palette with 5ml sample sachets trying to find the right colour (literally have about 20 or so 12" offcuts of deck board oiled up in various shades) - liked the bangkirai but wanted to tone down the orange in it so added a bit of bog oak and that did the trick. I ended up buying a 750ml tin of bangkirai and just tipping in a 125ml sample tin of the bog oak. BTW the colour palette on OSMO's own website is useless as they've applied the oil to the wood tone it's trying to replicate e.g. 006 bangkirai oil on a piece of bangkirai, mahogany on mahogany etc. - the palette over on wood finishes direct is better as they've applied the oil to standard pressure treated softwood deck boards:
  6. Couple of thoughts - EB-TY make hidden fasteners that use a biscuit joint slot to secure the board so presumably will allow for shrinkage without causing checking; Secondly I can really recommend OSMO deck oil (or their oil based stain) - it goes on a bit like teak oil but is coloured, as it soaks in it wont go flaky or peel. I did my deck with a colour I mixed myself 1:6 of 021 Osmo BOG OAK and 006 Osmo BANGKIRAI. It had two coats of colour and then a single coat of their anti-slip deck oil and I am really impressed with the results. We went from this (sopping wet in the photo but it's standard pressure treated softwood decking): To this (handrails, posts etc are still waiting on their second coat of colour): The photo doesn't really show it (the dew on the deck doesn't help!) but the grain is still very visible and the water repellency is excellent - the anti-slip really works in terms of grip too without feeling like you've covered the deck in sandpaper.
  7. Just to update on this - it's not really worth a project journal (by no means fine furniture) but I thought I'd post a few bits and bobs as I go along. I did my layout in the Japanese way (or as I understand it) using a centre line as a reference, this made thinning down the tenons actually pretty easy, especially with the ryoba saw I've got which for me seems easier to keep cutting straight and on the line when ripping. As mentioned previously I intended to cut the mortise using Paul Seller's method (see below). I actually tried three different ways of doing it: 1) Hogging out with auger bit then squaring with chisel 2) Routing and again squaring with chisel 3) Just using the chisel as per Paul Sellers To be honest, given the low number of mortises to cut and the depth of them (50mm) Paul's technique is probably the winner in this case, especially once you've got used to it a bit; the auger took quite a bit of cleanup and the router route (partially freehanding) got trickier the deeper the pass - also scarier (1/2" router with a 50mm long cutter)!
  8. You can go for wider slats or just add in a few more. You can even put ply in there as a must maintain ventilation to the underside of the mattress so if you use a sheet of ply you need to drill ventilation holes through it at regular intervals.
  9. To clarify I've roughed out the tenons so they're probably about 27mm at the moment (as opposed to 25) if I were to stick calipers on them but I thought they were looking a bit chunky relative to the stock. I'll cut the mortises then look at re-cutting the tenons. I'm probably going about this all wrong but If I screw up it's only a few quid to buy more timber!
  10. Afternoon folks I'm in the process of making a small gate to divide my driveway & garage from the rest of the garden - it's nothing grand, it'll be a field gate style about 4 feet wide made from treated construction timber that will be stained with osmo oil to match our deck. The outer frame stock is 45mm x 70mm and I've started with cutting the tenons (all hand tools so far) but before I cut the corresponding mortises I'm not sure if I've got the sizing right; I'm going to use Paul Sellers technique of cutting the mortise as a single chisel's width and without thinking I've gone for 25mm (~1"), this will leave 10mm (~ 3/8") of wood either side of the mortise - is that going to be OK or do you think I need to adjust the tenons to be 18mm thick which is closer to the '1/3 of mortise stock thickness' rule?
  11. Ask and ye shall receive - add the following to your search query on Google It will block results from pinterest.
  12. You definitely should consider a stage after the last diamond plate, I won't get into the debate over leather strops but I would say a good final process that's cheap is to get a a bit of float glass, a flat piece of MDF and load them up with some metal polish (I use Autosol then (leaving my blade in the honing guide) I work it over the glass and autosol then finish on the MDF and autosol applying pressure only on the back stroke. you can use the glass and MDF to also finish the back. Diamond paste would also work but I had issues with using green compound on MDF where it glazed on the surface of the MDF forming little lumps but that might just be the green compound I have which is very hard.
  13. Hi Felix - Eric posted a good summary of his finishing schedule using ARS here:
  14. Isn't Eucalyptus meant to be pretty hard...and quite prevalent in California?