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Everything posted by JeepDad

  1. I know sometimes we can over complicate decisions with wood types and over contrast the design. But I like the idea of a Birds eye or tiger maple top and a walnut (my favorite) body. But just my $.02
  2. I was leaning towards WO. My wood guy has it and I would rather buy from him (local woodworkers with mill and kiln) then spend a fortune at a store....... But I do like the look of Blk Locust.
  3. I read the FW article where they used the same formula - CPES and Epifanes spar. Stuffs not cheap but if I want to keep it looking good then I need to apply every couple of years or sooner.
  4. Great information. Thanks. Fine wood working article should help out.
  5. Yhea I guess I left out too much information....... One of those days where the brain is already had enough... I am thinking of using either White Oak, Cyprus, or Blk Locust (if I can find). It will be in the elements - during spring, summer, and fall - but covered in Winter. And since I hope to use slabs with natural edges, I want to go with a more natural look.
  6. This spring I am transforming our patio and grill area. I am building a grilling and food station with coolers, cabinets, etc..... I also want to build a farm house table with a slab top. The slabs I will be using have been kiln dried and stored (by my wood guy) for a year or so. I live in the Mid-Atlantic region that can have humid summers and cold/wet winters. Which finish have you all used/tried that worked?
  7. I tried - and they have it listed as "obsolete". I'll try the site suggested and look for a machine shop to maybe modify the new piece. The original piece basically fell apart..... and is in about 12 pieces. So retiring most likely won't be an option. I've also posted in the classified areas in other forums - maybe I'll get lucky. thanks for the suggestions guys......
  8. I own a Delta model 28-276 band saw and I am in need of an original upper wheel sliding bracket. Mine broke and trying to find a replacement has been hard since they have discontinued the saw and are no longer making the piece. I've tried "replacement" pieces but they are not the same size and dimensions. If anyone has a saw they are parting out or know of someone not on the forum parting out a saw let me know. I know this saw is not the best model but it was free and I am not ready to sink $00000's into a newer one just yet. As long as I can find a part. Thanks,
  9. I've had a Delta Bandsaw (model 28-276) now for a few years and it has served me well - no real issues. I know there are better ones out there in this class but it was free so no complaints. Now for the issue. The upper wheel sliding bracket broke. Now trying to find a replacement has been difficult - since Delta has it listed as "obsolete" with no replacements available. How do you have parts to a tool that are no longer available........ Whatever moving on. So trying to find this part has been hard to say the least. There is a company that is remanufacturing the part but I have
  10. Woodworking clubs or guilds......perfect idea. My friend is in Delaware and there is two within an hour dive.
  11. "minorhero" good points. I am not sure how she feels about getting the best price but I do know that she is 80 yrs old - so the letting her deal with the craigslist is not the best option. I recently reached out to her and we are talking next weekend about next steps - and decide on what suits her best.
  12. Recently a friend of the family passed away - and he was a woodworker. Needless to say his shop had wide variety of power and hand tools - 30 years of woodworking and buying. His children and wife have no interest in keeping the tools/equipment and have asked me to help catalog everything and then selling - after I have had a chance for myself. Once myself, my brother, and a few other friends purchase what we would like, I need to sell the remaining items. Here is where i need some advice. I have thought about craigslist, ebay, etc.... but here is the challenge I face. I live about
  13. I think the motor is a 1-1.5 Hp. And good point about the saw blade. I think I have a 60 tooth blade currently in there now. I'll look into thin kerf blades. Makes sense - less blade material less friction through the wood. And cheaper than a motor. What tooth count would you recommend? 30-40?
  14. I purchased on older Delta Contractor Table Saw 10 years ago - Model 34-444 - and I love it. Up to now it has performed without fail or issues with basic cross-cutting and stuff. But, over the past year my woodworking ability and projects have improved and developed to where I am working with 8/4 stock (Walnut, Maple, etc....) and making basic furniture. While ripping even 4/4 domestic hardwood it boogs down and to where I have to slow the feed rate - which in turns burns the wood. A larger cabinet saw is what I ultimately want - but the budget says otherwise right now. So in the mean time
  15. Interesting drzaius - where would the riser block go? So then the capacity would go to roughly 12".....? Thanks wdwerker - I'll try that approach a try on one of the smaller ones.
  16. A few weeks ago I was at my cabin in PA and I found several logs of spalted maple. I quickly saved it from the burn barrel and brought it home. My first thought was I could square it and mill it into small slabs on my bandsaw....... Well I was wrong. I have a Delta 14" band saw but the re-saw capability is only 6". I've trying to figure out, research my options so so Can cut these logs into slabs. All the logs are anywhere from 10-14" round. I thought about cutting them with a chain saw or a hand saw - which could require a huge amount of planing. I am honestly fresh out of ideas
  17. So here is a question. Listening to WoodTalk this morning they talked about whether or not they would choose to use a domino or a mortiser...? So that got me thinking..... With the domino or the Beadlock jig, why would you need to learn the time tested mortise/tenon joint? If we had these and other types of tools that create mortise quickly for a loose tenon - does the time it takes, frustration it comes with - make sense and worth it? Part of me says yes sense learning a new skill is always a plus. But, as a father of 3 young active kids - who has limited time in the shop -that oth
  18. Interesting idea about Enduro-Var. I'll try that one and see. I would love to be able to stabilize my own wood but not sure I want to invest the money and time. Each year I might turn 1-2 dozen handles that will touch water. Maybe when I do more I'll go that route.
  19. I have done a ice cream scope and pizza cutter for the house with the Wood Turners Finish and even with several washings, it has held up okay. I'll report back on this when I get back in the shop this weekend.
  20. Yes, the ultimate goal would be to keep the water from getting around the edges. But, the challenge is unless the seal is perfect, water will find away in..... I was thinking of using CA glue, but if the water does get in, how will that effect the CA finish? I also read else where to apply epoxy to the ends of the tube - to seal the ends. I used CA for a finish for a short time but I hate the smell while applying it and I had a few instances where the pen fell and the CA finish cracked. I just worry that over time with being dropped (as we all do with razors) the CA could crack.
  21. I have been turning pens/stoppers/handles/etc.... for a year now and I typically use General Finished Wood Turners Finish. It is easy to apply and it can be polished to a beautiful gloss sheen. I just turned a few razors (myself and gifts) and I was concerned that the above finish would protect the wood enough. From my research it appears that if the wood is not sealed well, water can get in between the wood and the brass/chrome ends, causing the wood to swell and eventually cause the finish to ghost or fail all together. Some research suggested that I should only use oily woods (cocobolo,