Rex Edgar

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Everything posted by Rex Edgar

  1. A friend wants me to build him a cornhole set. He wants the wood to show and a nice finish. I trimmed some 1/2” good quality ply board with cherry and milled some 2x4s down to about 1’25” x 2.50”. It makes for a heavy and awkward carry. I want to add grips, but I’ve already assembled the tops and frames. I don’t want handles that add to the width, so I want to rout a hand grip in the sides. Access to the free side is no worry, but how would you recommend that I smooth the inside portion of the grip? My handle consists of four holes drilled/routed in a small arc that will accommodate a hand grip. I’m thinking a Dremel with a sanding drum, but I’m not sure that I can get a uniform finish with that on the inside of the frame.
  2. Where in Schweitz? My dad and his wife lived in Lucerne for many years. I was able to visit many times and loved to browse the hardware stores and lust after the tools. They all have that ‘funny’ power cord. Welcome!
  3. I started with that model and upgraded to the slider a few years back. I have only good things to say about Dewalt tools. Check the basic angles with a known protractor/angle gauge. If your get a lot of use out there is always a chance to upgrade the blade. Does this model have the light that shows your cut line? The slider has that feature and it is useful. When I upgraded, I got a decent price selling my original unit.
  4. That’s why “RTFM” is a part of our lexicon?
  5. Operator error! The collet and locknut need to be manually pressed together; I would have thought that the tool came ready for use without looking at the manual. It isn’t the first one.....Thanks for reading and replying. I did call customer service and explained the situation; the rep never brought it up.....
  6. RTFM! I just looked at the manual and on page six it states that the collet and the locknut need to be “assembled.” I’ll try this in the morning......
  7. Sorry if I wasn’t clear. The collet and bit stay in the router when the locknut is released/removed.
  8. This router has no “second stage” when releasing the lock nut. I have a PC model which has the collet connected to the locknut by a snap ring. The Milwaukee model will allow the lock nut to be removed completely if the bit is of a small enough diameter. With the locknut completely removed, the bit is still jam tight. This has happened with every bit, even with the 1/4” adaptor. Thanks for the reply, other than that, I am happy with the unit.
  9. I replaced the router in my table and added a manual lift. The router is the Milwaukee Tools 5626 3 1/2 HP model. My problem is the collet. It is a tapered collet and when the 1/2” shank bit is secured in the tool it is a major hassle to try to remove the bit, even when the lock nut is removed altogether. I shouldn’t need pliers and the like to remove bit. Any thoughts, experiences? I called the company and they are replacing the collet; I just am not confident this will remedy the situation.
  10. Dknapp got it found a photo online, thank you
  11. Sounds right, thanks. Still having problem with the visual. ......
  12. I saw these a while back and made about eight or ten. Problem is now I ve no clue what their function is. Anyone have a clue?
  13. As for the cord; according to the manual, if 12/3 wire is used, a fairly long (it's in the book, can't remember the exact length{maybe 100'}) extension cord can be safely used. I used two single gang boxes with grounging and the proper plug. I double-checked with customer service that I read the information correctly, they concurred. I have three machines that use 220 and one outlet in the shop.
  14. On a similar note, honestly, how many Sawstop owners use the plastic blade guard? I find that it gets in the way more often than not. I am also pretty consistent in lowering the blade below deck height after use if I am done for a time.
  15. I agree with ben_r_. The 'flesh sensing' technology was just an added feature. I have seen the speed of the safety feature and do not want to see it work on meat. I am always 'talking to myself' about things like loose long sleeves and if the wood begins to bind as far as what my actions should be.
  16. I also set off the cartridge with an INCRA jig. I happens so fast that it takes a moment to realize what has taken place. I found that replacing both (blade and cartridge) took a little longer than just a changeover due to disengaging the blade from the cartridge. I keep one standard spare and take my chances on the dado. I have more (if that is possible) fear/respect for multiple spinning blades. The sound of a single blade is much different than a stack of blades and chipper's. You'll notice the first time you turn on the dado stack.
  17. I'm satisfied with the lathe, it' a NOVA from New Zealand. I was watching a turning video from Down-Under and the turner was turning at 3200 RPM. I have never gone above about 1300 RPM. I set the speed at 1900-2100 RPM and turned the power on. (I had gotten the blank into a round shape and was beginning to remove the interior.) Well thankful we have gravity. The lathe began a dance and the blank escaped before I could power down, (this was with the base chucked and the interior held in place with the tailstock). Well the piece bounced a few times and the damage was minimal. I returned to my comfort zone, 600-900 RPM. I'll post progress as I go. The large crack worries me, but I'll see what comes 'as the bowl turns'.
  18. I'm working on a cherry bowl from a recently downed tree on the property. The blank came from a crotch piece. My question is that now that I've got it rounded, it still turns with a vibration and will not stay in any place on the spindle, acting as though it is imbalanced. Am I correct in assuming that the construction of the tree, where two branches begin, is not symmetrical in mass? That is no matter how round, it will always be heavier in some places than others?
  19. I thought you were an 80 grit man!
  20. Thanks for the reply. I removed the hand wheel and cleaned the area as well as snugging the spindle lock bezel. I also want to replace the cord while in the area. The most common 12/3 is too thick on the outer diameter,s o I am looking into the options.
  21. My lathe is about 3 years old. The spindle lock base is very loose. I removed the end plate screws from the headstock hoping to turn the plate so as to get at the necessary fastener to tighten. While I am there, I may as well replace the power cord as it is becoming stiff. I looked up the website and see that the handwheel is threaded on. Anyone know which threads (L or R)? And is there a fastener to tighten? There seems to be no information on the TEKNA website, that I can find....
  22. I used 4x4's and 1/2" galvanized pipe mounted at about 10-15 degrees. The pipe is set in about 3+". Only problem is whatever gets stored under the other lumber is the first piece that I need next project! The 4x4's are mounted on steel spacers in case of moisture. The posts are secured with steel strap and suitable angle brackets.
  23. When I first started bowl turning, there was a lot of trial by error. For instance, I used a spindle gouge for bowl roughing. After a few successes, the gouge broke at the base (between the handle and the flute of the tool where it narrows significantly). I complained to the manufacturer (Robert Sorby), and received a lesson in wood grain and the forces at play while turning. At this point you should be well familiar with the construction of wood. Most explain it as a handful of drinking straws that are stronger when stood on end as opposed to lying on their side. If a bowl or vessel is turned with the grain (chucked or face plated at the open straw end) the spindle gouge is fine. When oriented cross grain, the tool is exposed to more forces than with the grain. It was explained to me that the grain orientation changes four time during one revolution, therefore putting more stress on the tool. I will commend Robert Sorrby, they replace the gouge that was broken by my ignorance of the proper selection of tools. I am now experimenting with a crotch of cherry. Think of it as a 'Y' or a fork in the road. In these configurations the grain changes more times than four depending on how many branches were growing in which direction. I agree that sharp tools are a must. Look at some of the techniques on the interweb. As in dealing with canines, don't show any fear when turning wood, the wood can sense fear and you will develop cramps from holding the tools with a 'death grip'. Ask me how I know. Good eye protection is a must! After rereading my post, I see that I left out that a bowl gouge is the proper tool for cross grain turning, there is no narrowing of the shaft before it transitions into the handle. Good luck!
  24. So here's what I'm working with. If I understand, then I want the walls 1.5-2.0" thick. Do I need to allow some of the bottom for warpage/drying? Where do you anticipate the cracking/checking to occur? This was a living tree last Wednesday, 2/15.
  25. I'm having a hard time visualizing the above advice. Can you elaborate?