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lewisc last won the day on October 4 2019

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About lewisc

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    Melbourne: Australia
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  1. I remember driving to Chicago from Berrien Springs in January and it being the scariest driving experience I've been in. It wasn;t the smartest idea driving at night and it felt like a blizzard outside. We just sat behind a bunch of trucks and hoped for the best. Walking around Chicago was the coldest I've ever felt. Beaniue, gloves, thermals, merino wool jumper, down vest, down jacket and a wool overcoat and I still felt cold. Maybe Spring would be a good option. @RichardA Will do. We didn't get enough time out your way last time. @K Cooper Sounds like a plan. The pads were cut from a tile of 8mm thick rubber with the square pattern you see on the leg. I can't find the exact product online but this was similar https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-400-x-500-x-6mm-adhesive-rubber-mat_p4000015. The one I bought was quite firm but still cut easily with scissors to the size I needed. Bunnings is our version of Home Depot.
  2. Thanks Rick. It’s funny you should mention that, we were just talking about it.I’d like to come back next year. So much too see over there. One of our ideas is to visit a few BBQ restaurants in Texas and do a bit more road tripping around. @treeslayer Not that I know of. I’m pretty sure it’s called a black house spider. Not really dangerous but still makes the hairs stand on the back of my neck. Thanks for your comments. The one thing I’m really pleased with is the sizing. The bench seats are a perfect height for the table top.
  3. Here's my completed outdoor table. I started a thread asking some advice but figured I'd chuck the final pictures up here. https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30620-outdoor-table-advice/ The frame went together fairly quickly and easily. I used 10x50mm dominos and batten screws (probably shouldn't admit that) for speed. A couple of stopped housing joins were cut by hand so I did brush up on some hand tool skills. Any screw holes were filled with builders bog and the frame was painted with exterior house paint. The base timber was H3 treated pine that I picked up quite cheap - I kind of forgot how soft pine is. Recycled timber (messmate) was used for the top. Even though it was much cheaper (probably about a third to half the price) than new timber, it was a fair bit of work and worry to prepare it. It was sold as de-nailed but I found one left in. I probed everything with a scribe and waved a magnet over the top. I don't think I'll be doing that again. It was finished with an oil-based exterior poly. Those Incra rules with all the holes for a mechanical pencil are worth their weight in gold. Absolutely a breeze to mark and measure things with. If we get a few years out of it, I'll be fine with that. It's not a project that I loved doing. I'm happy with the final result but wasn't super excited about it. The main thing is my wife is exceptionally happy that we have an outdoor table to use for Christmas Day. Also, check your dog holes every now and again.
  4. That's a neat looking chair. I like the fold up design.
  5. How much bow? You don't have much material to work with to try and flatten it. Is it the final length or are you trying to get different parts from it? You'd have more success cutting into smaller parts and working with that. If it's going to be one long shelf, the board might spring back to having the bow after flattening.
  6. Here’s a board made from Jarrah that had some cracks in it. I taped the bottom and used some west system to fill the crack. It’s in really small cracks so I have no fear of chipping out and some of the reading I’ve done suggests once cured, the epoxy is fine for food contact. I’ve done a few boards with this method.
  7. It’s only cosmetic but it will bug me a bit every time I see it. Lesson learned. Thankfully it was just aluminium and not more serious. @gee-dub Thanks for those pics. I’m didn’t even think of modding it. You don’t like the Incra flip stop?
  8. Until today. I set the incra mitre gauge close to the blade to give as much support as possible for a small piece of timber to cut some angles. Once done, I set the angle (saw tilts to the right) and then made my cut. I wondered for a second where the aluminium shavings were coming from. It wasn’t a smart moment.
  9. I have had a board cup before but that was when I left it flat on a bench. Once I stickered it, it returned to normal. From then on I always screw small rubber feet to the underside. How thick are your boards?
  10. I was planning 2 screws per board across all rails with an elongated hole. Not sure about the movement over such a small width though. I've added a few pieces in my design to show what I'm thinking. The cleat idea will work much better for this. I've also drawn on my approximate placing for screws. The longer lines on the side might be for a pocket hole or maybe on those ones I'll have to drill through the side rail.
  11. Here’s the plan. It will also have matching bench seats. I’ll run a few pieces of timber inbetween the side rails for screws to go up into the top.
  12. Yep. I know that. Wondering about a neat/good way to attach the top as individual pieces to the aprons.
  13. Changing things up for this one. Going to go with a timber frame now. Going back to this photo, how would you attach the top peices to the aprons - long screws like my sketch? or maybe even pocket screws through some side to side aprons. I'd prefer to leave the top screw free.
  14. I've been using a track saw for breaking down sheets and then taking it to the table saw. Much easier than trying to lug a full sheet and try to accurately cut it. It's also useful for trimming table top ends. You can do the same with a circular saw but the track is super convenient and accurate. If I have to do multiple rips, or quickly adjust the width of a rip cut, table saw all the way. Probably the best addition I've made to the table saw is the Incra 1000HD. Really useful for cutting multiple parts.
  15. I've got a few options for suitable timbers. It'll all be recycled so should be plenty dry and stable. I'll go for the single boards with elongated holes. Sounds like it will be the smart idea.