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About lewisc

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Melbourne: Australia
  • Woodworking Interests

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  1. Nicely done. That's a thing of beauty.
  2. Thanks for the replies. I usually keep my endgrain board for everything but meat. Sounds like another end grain board will be made. For the resin, I’ve used small amounts of west system to fill a few cracks on other boards. It seems to be fine. It wouldn’t be in large quantities (only thin lines) and it would really only be used as a serving board. Not much cutting on it.
  3. What are your thoughts on a timber serving board for slicing and serving cooked meat on? Long grain or end grain? Typically I use a plastic one so I can put it in the dishwasher and make sure it’s cleaned well. I’d like to make one for my wife’s 30th BBQ to serve and slice brisket on. I’m thinking it would have some sort of resin inlay in the shape of a cow.
  4. Try a blowtorch. Burn it for a bit and use a card scraper or sand over the top of it if nessecary. Finish with danish oil.
  5. Well done. It’s got a really nice clean look to it.
  6. I'm glad someone said it.
  7. The WS epoxy I buy in Australia comes in completely plastic containers. I wonder why they’re different? The only problem I’ve come into recently was the pump on the 207 failed.
  8. If you’re looking for a new router for a job that should be CNCd, is getting a small CNC router out of the question? Some of the YouTube makers seem to go ok with the xcarve machine.
  9. I use a few pieces of pine covered with tape and a couple of clamps to bring them in line. I don’t do fancy patterns so perfect alignment is not as important for me. I normally wing it and see what comes up.
  10. This is a great read on keeping table tops flat, while allowing for movement. It might not answer your questions but it’s a useful resource. https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf Can you add some pictures?
  11. I've used Osmo PolyX on my dining table for for about a year. No complaints. I also just finished my desk with Osmo - after a month, it still feels great. I used to mix my own wax, tung oil and BLO finish but it started making sense to buy pre-made finishes. My vote is now Osmo when it comes to wax finishes. What about using a cabinet makers wax? http://www.ubeaut.com.au/trad.html This is one I use here in Aus.
  12. I've had it happen on some but not others. As said, melt some beeswax into some mineral oil and rub it in. Something I also do is to leave a liberal coat of oil on the board over night. It will keep soaking in and buffs out easily enough.
  13. I’m probably never going to buy any bench crafted hardware but I don’t get it. It’s not that bad is it? Is it about the purity of wood being on the workbench? If that’s the case, shouldn’t it all be made from timber? Having said that, a brass knob would have my vote. It’d have a nice patina after years of using it. Also, it could be worse. It could be a turned epoxy river knob.
  14. It's plantation timber so I figured it's grown and harvested quickly and hasn't had time to develop the density of older trees. I made our kitchen table from recycled timber that is a similar species but feels completely different in terms of density and weight. That table timber was probably pulled out of a warehouse that was build 50 years ago.
  15. It seems fairly straight grained. It's only in a some parts across the whole board. I was putting it through the sander from both ends. Raising the height a bit and then going for a few more passes. I was going to hit it with 60g on the ROS and go from there.