lewisc

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Everything posted by lewisc

  1. I went with 2 layers of MDF glued and screwed together with a masonite over the top. Cheap and solid.
  2. lewisc

    Hijack!

    @wtnhighlander Saw this and thought of you. Couldn't find an original video to see if he was actually doing this.
  3. My father-in-law has one. He loves it. As far as I know, there hasn't been anything wrong with it and he's putting 30 000+kms (18 000miles) on it a year for the last 4-5 years. He gets around 900kms to a tank which is about 50litres. Fuel is a bit cheaper in the states (I think?) so probably works out better fuel costs. I've driven it once or twice and the most eerie thing about it is the noise. On startup, you can't hear anything until the petrol motor kicks in. No issues with power though.
  4. Welcome to the forum. If it's getting bogged down, I'd assume you're trying to sand too much. Have you used one before this?
  5. Another free one is Onshape, also similar to Fusion except it doesn't have the rendering capabilities. Can you render with FreeCAD?
  6. You should be able to get Fusion 360 free for a hobby license. It's got a steep learning curve but once you get the hang of it, it's awesome. I'll find a few pictures of things I've done with it. Lots of official tutorials for it but I've used these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrLOPJq_stc&ab_channel=ProductDesignOnline The biggest challenge for tutorials though is keeping up the interface changes. https://www.autodesk.com.au/products/fusion-360/personal https://a360.co/3onWrn5 - This is a dining table I made earlier in the year. https://a360.co/3o5qtwa - This
  7. Don;t know if I can suggest anything but good luck with it. I've posted this before but it makes me chuckle when I see it.
  8. I haven't seen this guy before. This is kind of mind boggling. A very intriguing piece of equipment. Kind of a cross between a CNC router, panto router and more. I find it amusing he's moving between this fairly complicated bit of equipment and some tiny hobby tools. After a bit more research: https://machineatlas.com/guides/new-hand-operated-cnc-machine-an-in-depth-look/
  9. A blender and a straw Coop. Problem solved.
  10. I'm sorry to hear that. My thoughts and prayers to you and your family.
  11. Maybe? Not quite the typical Australian accent. One reason I enjoy watching him is that he uses much of the same timber as I do - Victorian Ash. Which is the timber I used for my desk and posted earlier in the thread for the OSMO example.
  12. Yep, those Australian accents are hard to follow. He’s like the Melbourne woodwhisperer. Just not quite as YouTube famous. He’s got a few good videos to watch.
  13. The lighting is a bit different but this just applied and a couple of years later. I like the satin finish.
  14. I've sent him an email. I don't think its much different in terms of building. It should work to put a tenon in for alignment alongside the corner brace. Throw in a few threaded inserts and it's good to go.
  15. Yeah, it's the one with splayed legs. It's 2.2m x 1m wide (7" x 3" approx). I'm not concerned about the strength though, I know it would be plenty strong enough. More about should I just build it how I intended or would a 'customer' want choice whether the legs come off. The commercial version that it's based off has knock down legs. This is how the commercial version attaches the legs.
  16. I posted a while back that I'm building a dining table for someone else. It's a paid one. A 50% deposit has been paid and we're just finalising a few dimensions etc. I forgot to ask him about the leg joins. I normally use homemade loose tenons for big tables. Should I have asked if he wants knockdown legs (similar to the pic) or a permanent join? Also, do any of you do anything like metal C channel or timber cleats for a big table?
  17. I've had it on our dining table and my desk for just over 2 years. The dining table has a bunch of small scratches (that were hard to photograph) on it but my wife uses the surface for sewing. My desk has a bit of wear around where the mouse is but that's it. The 2 best things I like about it are the ease of application and the way it feels.
  18. That's definitely a good idea Rick. They're drawn in line with the edge of the table top but coming in a little won't hurt.
  19. Well...I've almost landed my first dining table commission today. After a week of back and forth emails and designs, we agreed to a design, timber and price. No cash (not quite done until this happens) has exchanged hands yet as we're waiting for life to hopefully return to normal. It's been a real learning experience so far. The table is based (mostly copied) on a few designs that were sent to me. Drawn up in Fusion 360. https://www.huset.com.au/product/jutland-natural-solid-oak-dining-table-alternate-sizes-ton-cz-original
  20. Used it enough to give a review? What model did you get? That sounds like it would be super useful to quickly do a round over with no cords in the way.
  21. My father in law has a coffee table that has timber screw on pieces like the metal one pictured. Either way, he's decided to go for solid timber which is easy enough to make. The attaching part had me a little stumped.
  22. Not sure. I'm guessing the glass had holes and some sort of screw on piece to hold it in place.
  23. I forgot about figure 8's. I think they'll be the most unobtrusive option. We can drill a hole in the top for the figures to sit flush. I'm not quite sure what the timber is. It looks like stained pine but it was made over 35 years ago, the he doesn't know. This is what the threaded rod looks like. Going back to glass wouldn't work well because I'm not sure we could get a good look with it.
  24. I'm helping a friend re-do a table top on a table his dad made in high school. It's more sentimental than anything. It had a glass top and was changed to a piece of MDF at some point. The plan is to put a solid top on it. We took the top off and it was held on with some glue and 4 threaded rods in the top of each leg (probably the same threaded rod the glass was held in place with). How would you go about attaching a solid timber top with the rails being lower than the top of the legs and to account for wood movement?