lewisc

How many teeth per inch would you recommend?

Maybe the better word would be "projects". I want to start doing more hand cut joinery in soft and hard timbers on boxes, drawers etc.

Most of my work is done using machines. I've never developed great hand skills so I'm choosing a few small projects to work on my hand skills. The first one I'm looking at is a small box by Gary Rogowski: https://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/sushi-box-plan.pdf. It's simple yet challenging enough to learn some good skills. To begin this, I'm looking for some new tools. Specifically a saw of some sort. I like the look of the Veritas saws and they fit the budget. Can you hand tool experts recommend a good saw that would do the job as well as be good for other work.

Thanks for your input. It would be nice to order as needed but I order for a school. It's easier/cheaper for us to order multiple sheets at a time.

Thinking of a trolley to hold and store full size and cut sheets. I've got the room to move around. Is it ideal to keep them stored flat or upright? Pictures would be welcome!

Hi all. Does anyone have a proper name for what to call the type of legs on this cabinet?

Thank you! I'll try to get some extra tension on the belt. Hopefully that should solve the issue. Yeah, I tightened the thumb screw. Just need to see if I can get the motor back a bit further. Update: All the belts are tight. I even found a nut that was not as tight as it should be. The bit is cutting as it should. Thanks for your help.

I'm trying to bore out a hole for a clock movement in the back of some 19mm pine. I bought this https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling-and-boring/sawtooth-bit-3-1-8 and it's not cutting as it should. I know it's a cheap bit - are the others like it which would be better? I've tried the following: Various speeds on the drill press - including the slowest, Drill a few holes to remove some material to maybe make it easier Just as soon as it touches the timber, it stops and nothing cuts. What else could I try to get the result I'm looking for?

I just found this little bit of info in the table plans.

Thanks for the confirmation. The reason I ask is I'm a bit unsure about matching the grain to reduce movement.I've got a bit more reading to do on the topic. Would it matter in a table top this small?

I'm preparing timber for a small shaker table - http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/HiRes-SEPT2004-Seg2.pdf Which would you choose for the table top grain alignment? I'm leaning towards the one with the swirly grain on the outside. Thoughts?

Would the curves on this bedside table be done with a round over bit and cove bit using a router table? Does anyone have any suggestions/jigs of how to do this sort of thing? Thanks!

I'm assuming you're in the states so I have no idea how high school works over there. The Yr 7's (age 12-13) at my school make a sliding pencil box. You can vary the joins depending on skill level and teach marking and cutting skills. My Yr 8's (13-14) are doing a mixed material analog clock and will design a laminated cutting board after that. Yr 9's start doing a jewellery/keepsake box that they can customise (joints/size/lid etc) and the Yr 10's get to design a small piece of bedroom furniture (bedside table/console shelf. I've also done a footstool around the Yr 8/9 level.

Nice stool! What are the approx dimensions and how'd you join the seat?