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Everything posted by mlingenfelter

  1. Thanks for the constructive criticism. At least those that had something to say, said why, I can except that. I also know Greene & Greene isn't for everyone, but I like the style and it works well in our "library". Woodworker100, I used Sapele on the chairs. I considered leather, but it was going to be pricey to have someone do. I can deal with fabric myself, and you have many more choices of color and patterns. I don't know how much I need yet, but it's really not much.
  2. I thought I would share these photos of a couple Morris Chairs I built in the Greene & Greene style. I really like how they came out. I took some heat for my design, from the people over on the Yahoo Greene & Greene forum. I guess I'm up for some more abuse, because I'm posting this again. The chairs are basically finished, I just have to get the cushions made. My sister is good with the sawing machine and she said she would give me a helping hand. We just need to get out find the fabric we want. I'm not sure what Marc has planned for his cushions, but I found this site that h
  3. I've used Douglas Fir on my last two benches, and is now the wood of choice for my benches. It's "cheap", stiff, stable, and it also looks great as it ages. As far as I'm concerned, dents don't effect bench "performance". Having a wood that is easy to plane is a big plus, when it comes to flatting your top. Mike
  4. It is chunky but I've been saying it's "big-boned" . It weighs a ton and stays put!
  5. I didn't build a Split-Top, but I made my bench from (2) 6x12 Douglas Fir boards. I couldn't be happier with how it came out. I think it's been close to a year now, and I haven't had any issues with wood moment. I should take some updated pictures, but here are a few pictures as I was building it.
  6. I was lazy and never preorder his book. I just ordered it yesterday, I'm looking forward to getting it. I'm also looking forward to him releasing more videos, to go along with the new book.
  7. I agree, after just a little bit of practice I was cutting pretty good dovetails. Of the "basic" joints, I think the hardest to cut by hand, is the Mortise and Tenon. I haven't cut one yet that hasn't needed some level of "adjustment". The large surface area of a M&T isn't that forgiving.
  8. For that style of plane, I think David's book is the best. I've made a couple planes like this and love the planes. David also has companion DVDs that go into a lot of detail, that is in the book. The book and DVDs work well together. Mike
  9. I bought a PM1500 back in May, so I haven't had a lot of time with it yet. I bought it really for resawing, but I have only tested it with the "small" blade that came with the saw. Even with that blade, the saw it did a really good job. I have some new blades I still need to test, but I only expect the cut quality to be even better. The saw is amazingly quite and smooth running. I don't know why but most Bandsaws makers really cheap out on their fence, but Powermatic doesn't. I really like Powermatic's fence, it's solid without weighing a ton. The fence is also easy to adjust. It's Pow
  10. Welcome! Very nice cabinet. Be sure to share more pictures when you finish the new stand. Mike
  11. I don't think "Plastic handle" a fair description of the handle. Yes, it's a man made material, it more like Corian. Personally the handle felt very nice in the hand, it didn't feel "cheap" at all. Mike .
  12. I owned one of Rob's Dovetails saws. I can say it a very nice saw and cut amazing well. I still have and used the LN dovetail saw before buying Rob's saw. Cut quality I would give to Rob's saw, it left a much nicer "finish" then the LN. Although I never had an issue with the LN cut quality when assembling my dovetails. The saw truly is a dream when starting the cut. One of the selling points Rob uses for his saw, is the added weight of his saw. Yes I think the added weight does help speed the cut. Although after using it for awhile, it's the weight that started to bother me. I think i
  13. I just flatten my bench, using Marc's approach. I think 3/4" boards should work fine. Just remember, the router is likely to "bump" into the rails. I would just be careful not to go all the way through the "thinner" rails. Although it wouldn't be the that bad, as long you don't create a gap the sled will have issues with. You could also glue up some 3/4" boards to make a thicker rail. I just wouldn't use any nails, because the router could cut into them. Mike
  14. I recently built a new Crosscut Sled. I used William Ng's approach and it work really well for me. Mike
  15. I had this issue a little over a year ago. Mine was brought on by a lot of hand sanding. I went to see the doctor about and she gave me some exercises to do, and said it could take up to 6 months to heal. It was pretty close to 6 months for me! I bought one these Flexbar which really helped. Mike
  16. I picked up the hammer listed below and it works great for me. I use the brass end to adjust the blade, and the nylon end when I'm tapping on wood. It's a "smaller" hammer, but it works great for what I do. Mike
  17. If you add some leather to the movable chop, you might find it requires very little pressure/torque to hold your work piece. My Benchcrafted Moxon vise requires very little pressure, and I think that is mainly due to the holding power of the leather. Mike
  18. I'm not seeing your SketchUp model in the Library. Also, if you are from the UK are you familiar with this bench hardware: I really like the design of their wagon vise. Mike
  19. I know David Marks using epoxy and dyes for inlays. I'm not sure what he uses for his dyes, but I'll find out in Oct when I take a class from him . I'm not sure why these kinds of pigments wouldn't work. I'd say try it out and see how it goes. Mike
  20. I don't know anything about Accu-head, but Byrd makes a cutting head for the DW734, I think it cost $447. It might not show on their web site, but if you email them they will confirm they have a cutting head for that model. I contacted them awhile back about a cutting head for the DW735, which wasn't listed on their web site but they have one for that model too. It also costs $447. Mike
  21. If I'm understanding you correctly, I would use a Plow Plane to cut the grooves.
  22. I have David's Guide and it works quite well. I was even able to use it with a Western saw, that had a little more blade between the back (Bad Axe Dovetail Saw). David does make it look easy. The guide does help, but if you aren't careful you can still pull the saw offline. I was able to cut a small test piece in about 10 - 15 minutes. I think doing it my old way, it might have taken closer to an hour. The big time saver is not having to do as much layout. Mike
  23. I was using a wooden mallet. I really only snapped one. After the one broke, I sent them back. I have to say I hit the Woodcraft holdfast much "softer", than I do the Gramercy holdfasts. In general a good whack is all you, I never wailed on it.
  24. I bought the Woodcraft cast-iron holdfasts awhile ago. When I went to use them they wouldn't grip, so I smacked them harder, then they snapped! I wouldn't say I even hit them that hard. I thought WTF, who would ever use holdfasts! Then years later I tried Gramercy, and found out how holdfasts were suppose to work. I love my Gramercy holdfasts, I have a couple pairs. Mike