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About gee-dub

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    Master Poster

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. hearing protection

    Peltor Optime have served me well. My cyclone is about 4’ to the right of me at the table saw and is of no consequence. About $30.
  2. Bessey Clamp Question

    The only problem with clamps that are longer than you need is when the excess bar gets in the way. I have cut a few clamps down to 18" when I couldn't get that size in the type of clamp I was after. Like cutting fence rails on a tablesaw, there is always the fear of wanting that length back. With clamps though you can always add longer ones if actually required later.
  3. The Pekovich Cabinet

    Looking good. I'm lovin' the ride-a-long.
  4. Fixing fine scratches

    Your success will vary with the finish in place. If there is a decent film the next step is to determine the size of the scratches. If the scratches are the size of 220 grit you will have a challenge. If they are the size of 400 grit it becomes easier. I have 1000, 1200, 1500 and up for such things BUT, if the scratches are minimal I would start with a little Novus or other plastic polish liquid to see if I could get an acceptable fix first. I find Novus 2 to be course enough to do many things while being fine enough to be the final grit on things like guitars and pianos; works great for car scratches too). There is no penalty for starting at too high a grit other than wasting a little time. If the scratch size is too large for the grit you will notice pretty quick and can reassess.
  5. Adding a UniFence to SawStop

    Great deal on a great fence. Leaning towards what you know is natural. Knowing that is what you are doing is not so common, kudos. I loved my Beis fence and now run a 'better-than-Bies' on my Saw Stop. I still get sentimental when I visit dad and go out and slide the Beis along the rails with the touch of a finger. The Saw Stop fence takes a bit of a push but, the enhanced adjustability and easy face board changes balance that out.. Folks who subscribe to the fence face ending at the front edge of the blade school of woodworking get that and more from the Unifence. It is a rock solid, long proven design. I am pretty tool agnostic as long as it is suitable for the job but, like you, I do prefer what I learned on and a T-Square style fence is comfortable for me. You could probably make your money back selling one of the fence heads locally if you don't want to keep both. Like tenon jigs and other large castings, shipping costs really narrow your market circle. Enjoy the fence and again, congrats on a great deal.
  6. Used lathe rant

    There is a reason they call turning the slippery slope. The lathe is a small part of what you'll spend. Chucks, tools, lights, rests, sharpening, gizmos and doo-dads abound.
  7. Urn in Cherry

    Thanks for the kind words all. I cheat a bit when I'm hurried. I made a right angle jig out of scrap ply (just an "L" with base and face about 8" wide) to help me hold the parts vertically. I used an 1/8" round over bit in the router table to rough them out. then used strips of sandpaper much as you describe to clean them up using up to 800 grit on the end grain. Not as involved as it sounds, it went very quickly.
  8. Urn in Cherry

    Very no-frills due to short time frame. Extended family member with plenty of time but, decided at the last minute.
  9. Plunge Router Recommendations

    Not sure if the Milwaukees are still built the way they were a decade or so ago but, I have several and all they do is work. The 5616-24 has one of the smoothest plunge bases I've used. I am a little prejudiced since I have several 5615 and 5616 motors which allow me to swap motors and bases for all sorts of combinations. If their quality is still there, I would go that route in a heartbeat. I have a dozen years on the 5625 in my router table and is gets used . . . a lot. The little 5615's I use for things just a bit much for a trim router have been worked hard for at least that long and run as tight and true as day one. We all tend to recommend those tools that have served us well so take that into account . Here's some of them. I keep thinking that surely one of them will need brushes someday.
  10. It is sometimes hard to add value to a thread on this subject after the first 10 posts. I will just add that the jointer bed length and fence are of special interest to me when sorting through the contenders. Your requirements will vary with what you do. I would say my requirements are average; I focus neither full-wall built-ins nor do I specialize in Kleenex boxes but, I build a little of both. Mostly tables, hutches, chests of drawers and so forth. The closer the jointer bed length is to my majority requirements the less often I need outboard material support. My 40-plus inch infeed provides all the support I need for furniture prts 90-plus percent of the time. I also use a jointer for things other than making a flat face and a perpendicular reference surface. This means a long, tall fence that can hold its position under stress was also high on my list. Table length and fence design win the most complaints from combo machines under the $4k to $5k tier. If you are moving up to something like a Felder 941 these problems go away. the Hammer A3-41 seems to be the popular entrance level tool at this tier. If I could justify it, I would go there but, alas, I only make 2 or 3 large pieces a year so, while sustaining the shop, my efforts are not going to let me retire early ;-) Space is a concern for some but, I hear only a few of the folks who move to the lower cost combos talk about how happy they are to have made that decision. Most trade rag reviews bear this out but, we all look at those with the requisite grain of salt. In the end your needs will drive your choice. I have an 8" jointer and a 15" planer and only rarely fond the jointer a bit narrow. Good luck and enjoy the hunt.
  11. Quick Mother's Day Gifts

    Route keyhole slots for mounting. Cost is almost free once you have the bit.
  12. First pair of parallel clamps? Which to buy?

    @Tobykanobe - This is a good example of how to factor in different people's opinions and use experiences. The Uniklamps that wdwerker dislikes are my go-to clamp. I use them for most mid-size clamping jobs which make up most of my furniture making. Some folks praise their Jet parallel clamps but these are my "last choice" when using full size parallel clamps; too much time with the original K-Body design I guess. Parallel clamps come into play for things over 18" and pipe clamps for most things over 40" depending on use case. Trust me that these will not be the last clamps you buy. Try to get your hands on some different varieties. You've already held the DeWalts, you can get your hands on some Bessey and Jets and sometimes Irwins at a Rockler but, I do not know if you are near one. The Peachtree, Yost and Lee Valleys all get some praise with the Woodcraft K-body Groz clones being lower end but, usable. In the end you'll find your favorite and probably end up with some that are your "last choice".
  13. First pair of parallel clamps? Which to buy?

    The DeWalts are sloppy similar to the Irwins. Parallel clamps are not really doing their job if the jaws misalign easily. Common reasons for getting parallel clamps are: Casework: Long edge clamping where you need a large bearing face: And they work great for panel glue-ups if you already have them but, if you just need a small bearing face, aluminum clamps will do the job in a light weight format: What are you preparing to do?
  14. Major score ! 5 hp Oneida cyclone !

    Rent a Genie-Lift when it is time to put it back up. Makes it safe and easy. some of the best money I ever spent and it was cheap to rent. Like a lightweight hand-crank forklift mated with an engine hoist. Gets into tight spots, allows good control. Dropped my blower right on to the capture bolts for wall hanging.
  15. An adequate sander

    Like other suppliers, Klingspor makes a wide variety of discs including inexpensive ones on light paper backings. These 'bargain' discs are no better than most generic discs. Their better abrasives do quite well for me. Industrial Abrasives 'better' discs also do well for me.