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gee-dub last won the day on January 20

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About gee-dub

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    Master Poster

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. Apologies wtnhighlander. I have a 12" x 48" scrap sheet that I got from dad years ago. I'm no help on sourcing ;-(
  2. I have a round Colt base with a stepped hole in it. I just slipped the screws through the holes on both plates to line things up, put a 1-3/16" Forstner in the hole and marked the center. Bases with stepped bushing holes generally have counter-bored, slightly oversized, mounting holes for the router base to allow final centering. An exception is my Pat Warner round base. It mounts with flat head machine screws and lines up perfectly. His personality was an acquired taste but, his work was beyond reproach.
  3. A recent project could have gone easier if I had a teardrop base for my palm router that would accept a guide bushing. I had some plexiglass laying around. The screw holes were no big deal as I used the original template for a guide. The stepped bushing hole was a little tricky seeming how my drill press will only slow down to about 250 RPM. I got through that okay and added a coutersunk hole for a knob. Works like a champ.
  4. Most makers seem to call them an Edge Fluting Bit. This one has a 3/8" radius. IIRC it is the Woodline bit mentioned in the article . . . #1475 comes to mind. Amana and Whiteside (and I'm sure others) make the profile but, finding the dimensions I was after was the challenge. It got done soaking up the mineral oil. It will weep for a while but, I should be able to delivery it day after tomorrow for sure.
  5. Here's the fence setup I use. You can see the stop in the read which is set for full depth. I use setup bars to space off of this for the first pass. I swap the bars for used up gift cards (about 1/32") for the second pass. The last pass leaves a pretty decent result right off the machine. I don't do this often enough to keep a tub of mineral oil running so I pour it on and wipe it around with gloved hands. I come back a couple times and hour and add oil if required and rub the oil around any areas that have gone dry. Once it stops soaking in oil I leave
  6. Maple and cherry are definitely burn hazards when machining. I run the bit slow (WAG about 18k RPM?) and make my feed rate as fast as I can while doing the operation safely. I use a temporary fence shaped with the same arc as the ends of the board. The fence also has start and finish position 'stops' (pieces of wood clamped in position). I practice the operation a few times before the actual run; corner of the board on the right hand stop, rock into the bit and move to the left, hit the left stop and rock away from the bit. Using the fence to control the depth I do this in four cuts,
  7. I put the journal here:
  8. Back in 2013 Fine Woodworking ran an article about a novel cutting board made by a guy named Scott Lewis. I thought they were pretty original and made a couple for family members. Fast forward to this week. I finally got sick of being between shops and gathered some 120v tools together, purged the garage of stuff being stored in anticipation of the new shop build and cobbled together a space where I could at least make something . . . anything. . My new neighbor had loaned me his tractor on a few occasions and my plan was to do something for him . . . any day now. That was a year ago.
  9. I should finish tomorrow if all goes well. I do use a template. I'll post a quick journal thread on it rather than derail our daily postings here ;-)
  10. Cut the juice groove and outer edge curves on a Scott Lewis cutting board I'm making for one of my neighbors. I'll do the edge profile, finger grips, and oil it tomorrow.
  11. While digging through the seemingly endless boxes and bins of stuff waiting to go into the new shop I came across a potential collector's item. Could this be the woodworker's version of a collectable action figure?
  12. I agree that TB-III could be a bad choice. I use a lot of darker woods and it is really the only glue I have purchased for many years. I have a maple cutting board blank with a bad joint. I re-sawed that section and re-glued. The point being that you can see the dark glue at the fix and see the other joints as an example of TB-III on a light wood. This may not be the best example as I am not trying to hide the joints with the figure. However, with a good figure match I would think these joints would be fairly unnoticed. Are your joints more prominent than these? As stated, a
  13. Love the seamless sinks. Wish they could pull that off with quartz.
  14. With some help I challenged my "between shops" mentality and brought my old zipcode saw up from dad's. He has an old jointer and a DW735 that need some attention. With a little effort I may have a fairly functional 120v shop while I wait to break ground.
  15. The advice is generally to skip the wasted time and money on a 6" and the selling thereof. I ignored this warning and paid the price. I would take a few hours and build yourself a nice planer sled to use while you save your money. This is what I did and the choice has paid dividends ever since. Who knows, you might luck onto a killer deal on a used 8" while you are saving up. P.s. There are lots of folks out there who have never had anything other than a 6" and are very happy. Didn't work for me but, obviously does for them