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gee-dub last won the day on December 3 2018

gee-dub had the most liked content!

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About gee-dub

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    Master Poster

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. gee-dub

    Shop Tour

    Glad to see the drill press in the corner. That is my plan for the next space as I chickened out in the current one. After years of "careful analysis" I know that I can do almost anything with the 6 feet or more of side to side clearance a corner placement gives me.
  2. gee-dub

    Retirement Shop

    Nice digs B. I long for the next phase of my career (getting out of it ). Your work area has that comfortable inviting atmosphere I enjoy so much.
  3. gee-dub

    Farmhouse Kitchen Table

    Came out great. Happy wife, happy life.
  4. gee-dub

    Built a saw vise

    Welcome and nice vise. More elegant than my basic approach. Of course I have to stoop over ;-(
  5. WELCOME! Let the fun begin . . . Plywood would be the simplest material to make the larger part from and you could dye or stain it to your color preference. If you want a hardwood top you are looking at a glue up. This is a common practice in furniture building but, some skill with a hand plane or two or a jointer and a planer assure success for this. Another option is veneers over a substrate and veneers come in a variety of coloration. I don't do a lot of inlay but, someone should chime in here who does. Inlay can be mortised in by hand but, something like a Dremel with a base or your router (you didn't mention if it was a plunge) will assure a consistent depth.
  6. gee-dub

    Boeshield RustFree

    Could it be an environmental thing? I have a can that has got to be over 10 years old that still sprays. Shows how unimpressed I am with the stuff that a can lasts so long, eh? I live in SoCal where anything that even appears to be a seasonal change happens on TV to someone else, somewhere else so, pretty moderate temperature swings. We did have that typhoon come through here last week . . . Grown men wept at the sight of such destruction . . . . "Honey! Call 911. There's a mysterious shiny foreign material all over the deck!!!"
  7. gee-dub

    So this happened today... New SawStop.

    Making progress . . .
  8. gee-dub

    sketching a simple woodworking bench

    Good thread. Good discussion. I'll add that on tenons longer than some ratio that is subjective to me, I will scratch a groove in each face of the tenon to allow glue to move or 'escape' a certain area when plunging the tenon into the mortise. I guess I can also toss out there that I apply the glue to the mortise walls and not to the tenon. I know there are different school of thought on this but, I haven't lost one yet
  9. gee-dub

    So this happened today... New SawStop.

    I have had two misfires on my PCS. Both non-flesh boo-boo's by me. If it wasn't for the dull "thunk" sound (and the fact that the material is no longer being cut ) you wouldn't even know what happened when the safety system fires. It is very anti-climactic; more a sense of confusion immediately followed by an internal groan than anything else.
  10. gee-dub

    Coffee table for my nephew

    And there it is . . . just beautiful Derek. Another outstanding piece.
  11. gee-dub

    So this happened today... New SawStop.

    Yay! Do yourself a favor. Check blade to slot alignment at 90* and 45* BEFORE you add the wings and fence rails. Much easier going.
  12. gee-dub

    sketching a simple woodworking bench

    The shoulder is a structural part of the M&T's mechanical strength. It is also your main supporter (of the tenon) when resisting racking. I would recommend you go with shoulders. If you really don't want M&T I would half-lap the joint before I would just "cork" it. Although this is not the purpose of this picture, you can see how the shoulder engages when a racking motion is applied (to the failure point in these pics but, I think you get the idea):
  13. gee-dub

    Some File Questions

    I agree that a pull stroke file would just be a decent length file flipped around. Like quite a few other (but not all) things, your first experience with a quality file or rasp is a bit of an eye opener. If you have ever run a $20 Skill or black and Decker "jig saw" and then operated something like a Bosch 1590 you know of what I speak. Quality files and rasps cut better and last longer than their low end cousins. The good news is that you don't have to go all the way to the big dollar players to get a good file or rasp but, they will be a bit more than $20 for a set. I have had good service out of a Mercer half round cabinet rasp that was under $30. I also have more expensive files but, also have some hand-me-down Simonds that just won't quit; they seem to laugh at wood. There is a short learning curve but, the Milled Tooth (Iwasaki) Files from Lee Valley are a joy to use. As mentioned, store you files carefully. don't just toss 'em in a tool box ;-) When it comes to sharpening, there are places that do it. For woodworking files and rasps I would not go through the effort unless I had something really special to start with that I just couldn't replace. That's just me. For other fields that just eat files for lunch, a sharpening service probably makes more sense.
  14. gee-dub

    1hp VS. 1.5hp Bandsaws

    Technology is great but for cars, stereos and bandsaws I'll take raw horsepower any day. That being said, I have a 10" saw for lighter work and it is 1/3 HP and does fine in up to 3/4" material. It does fine up to 4" material if you have some patience. To qualify that, I do not hesitate to use it on 1-1/2" to 2" material as a matter of course. This little saw let's me keep a resaw blade on my 17" machine most of the time. I would not want it to be my only saw. If my 17", 2HP machine had 4 or 5 HP it would not hurt my feelings one bit.
  15. gee-dub

    Proper Depth of Cut on Table Saw

    You get a feel for your cutters, your material and what you are trying to do. General cuts, I clear the tooth at the top of the material (gullets empty below the table). For cleaner crosscuts in fibrous material I run the blade very high to alter the surface penetration angle. I do the same for tough (pecan, wenge) or thicker material as it seems I get less resistance this way; that may be subjective . I will preach the 'clean cutters' gospel. When I get enough spoil on the teeth that I notice, I stop and spend a minute of two with some L.A. Awesome and clean the blade. There are times I feel the blade is cutting like new again even though I don't let them get that dirty. I imagine this is kind of like when your car drives better when it is clean unless you let your blade get pretty built up.