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gee-dub last won the day on May 16

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About gee-dub

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. This comes up so often I thought I would post (probably again, sorry) how I do this. The felt pen labeled block of wood is what I used to use to hold a mill file at 90 degrees to mill the scraper's edges. It is just a milled scrap of ash. The extra slot at the far end is meaningless. It just happened to be in the piece of scrap when I chose it. I got a Veritas file holder somewhere along the way and it is pretty idiot proof for straight edges. The other block of wood just helps me keep the card perpendicular to the stone when stoning the edges. I start by removing any remaining hook by stoning the faces near the edges, both sides, all edges. I then mill each edge. Normally I hold the scraper and the file in my hands but, I have to hold the camera As mentioned I use the block of wood, any milled scrap will do, to help me consistently stone the edges on a coarse stone (about 200 grit) and then a fine (about 600 grit). What I am after is a smooth even "face" for the full length of the edge. I then pull the edges with a burnishing rod. The Veritas tri-burnisher has become my go-to. It really excels at curved scrapers but is good overall. For hooking straight edges the Veritas (what is this!?! a Lee Valley ad???) burnisher is another idiot-proof helper. A burnishing rod will do fine too. I do a 5 to 10 degree hook for a couple of passes. Over working the hook step causes a lot of folks issues I think. After the few-minute process your card scraper does this. All the Veritas items are just helpers. I got along fine before I had them.
  2. Cool little project that really lets the material stand at center stage.
  3. Sorry, free hand. An 1/8" roundover is not a lot of material but can still cause issues when routing uphill. I don't have any trouble with evenly figured walnut but the act of following the curve makes even straight-grained material have a reversing point. You could also knock the sharps edge of with a sanding block before routing. I have done this with good success on end grain. Generally on end grain you can clamp on a sacrificial block so the end fibers are supported. Not so on a rounded edge so climb cutting is my answer. If you are not comfortable with climb cutting you can climb cut a few end grain sections of scrap clamped in the vise to get a feel for the router's desire to pull you along.
  4. Assuming you've checked that it is solid material (rounding over a veneered substrate would be a rude awakening) I would start routing where the grain is running in the same direction. My routine on round objects or sections of reversing grain on straight runs is as follows: - Start and route through a section of grain running in the same direction (downhill as some say). - Stop before you reach the reversing grain point. - Skip ahead and route through the other section of downhill grain. - Climb cut from an already routed profile area back through the revering grain areas to connect the whole. Walnut is not so burn prone as some other materials. Burn prone or not if you want to take an extra step to assure a smooth final pass use tape. Run an even strip of tape around the outer edge of the material. Perform your routing operation as described above with the bearing riding on the tape. Remove the tape. Make a final smooth continuous pass with the router to remove the small amount of material let due to the tape being present. Hope this made sense; I'm on my first cup of coffee ;-)
  5. That's a great use Tom. We used a similar tool and stainless strapping to mount wireless repeaters around the city. The electronics have changed but the original mounts are still in use in many locations. An easy and reliable method for short or longer term use.
  6. Just sharing for the fun of it. I love it when a hand-me-down tool comes with a story. I was using these today and realized my uncle had given them to me 50 years ago. He ended his career designing and making prototypes for jet fighter seats. These hung from his belt for cutting leather and naugahyde. He also entered a seat design for Disneyland's Monorail but, didn't make the cut . . . pun intended. I have used these for decades. They currently hang just inside one of the swing-out doors of my wall mounted tool cabinet.
  7. This is all just me talkin' and is worth every penny you are paying for it . That being said . . . With the prices of used gear being all over the place and the scarcity in your area of 8" machines I can see the attraction. It misses s few things on my "gotta haves" list when I was shopping for an 8". These are things that were important to me (they still hold true 14 years later) and may not map directly to your situation. - I am still scarred from trying to align dovetail ways beds on an older machine and so p-beds were a must. On the other side of that argument, once you get them set you may never touch them again. - I like a long infeed table. Outboard supports are great and I do use them for anything longer than my tables but, being able to do 80% of my work without a roller stand is pretty cool. - 1-1/2 HP is probably OK. I would give it a run with 7" material and see how it feels. My 3HP sometimes seems like it could benefit from an extra horse. Like I said, this is just me talkin' and shouldn't be the deciding factor on anything. If you have been looking for a few years and this is the first decent 8" machine to show its head for under $1500 I would be sorely tempted. Grizzly is good about having parts for very old machines so you would have that going for you.
  8. I don't know that it matters but I misspoke when I said the tray was maple and walnut. This one is all walnut, it just happened to be some sappy walnut. The other trays have maple parts and I got corn-fused. The cut offs from resawing the scraps to thickness will give me some thin stock for tray supports. Bonus, the figure matches. I had pre-finished the insides of the boxes so these supports get glued in with some E6000. And you end up here. I normally use felt pads but for the shop I added these rubber bumpers as feet. This guy will set by the door and hold my shop specs. I think I have beat this topic to death but I'll circle back and post the other three boxes when they are complete.
  9. You would think I was doing the restoration on Notre Dame with the amount of pics and posts on this project. I am getting older and slower so this helps me feel like I am making headway . The maple box is only finished with shellac so it is done quicker than the others. Here's my method for attaching this type of pull; a surface adhesive method. I apply some tape, choose the position, and trace part of the shape as a reference. I snip a couple of small bits of copper wire (small dowels or whatever will work), drill receiver holes for them and tap them in. The sharp tips left from being snipped with dykes act like dowel centers. I press the pull onto the spikes and this marks the locations for the holes on the pull for me. A bit of tape in case of squeeze out, a bit of epoxy, and a clamp. I've failed to remember to refresh my ZCI "the next time I use epoxy" a few times now. Finally remembered and mixed a bit more than I needed, laid a strip of packing tape on the surface, flipped the ZCI over, and drizzled epoxy into the slot to restore it. I plan to keep the smaller box and use it to store my Rx shop glasses and other small paraphernalia. I built a little tray to hold the glasses on top. This is just a rabbeted maple box with a rabbeted bottom to accept a walnut panel. With this thin stock I chose to round the corners of the panel rather than chisel the corners of the rabbets square. Ta-da. A little glue and a gravity clamp.
  10. A sled or a fixture for your miter gauge depending on scale. I made this out of a piece of 2x4 to cut angled slots in the adjustable rails of a planer sled. The slots accept little wedges to set the height but, same basic idea.
  11. First I will chime in with Dr. Zaius. If you plan to have your tablesaw on a mobile base adding more weight is probably not to your advantage. Secondly, I acquired these extra wings when I had a hybrid saw that I was modifying into a beast. Since I had the wings I went ahead and used them on the Saw Stop. The Saw Stop PCS 3HP comes with 2 cast iron wings. I added 3 more 12" wings to the right hand side as seen below. Apologies in advance for all the pics. I'm just trying to help out the OP. The right side is supported by the drawer unit. I built a leveling mechanism which is pretty simple and really helped get the whole surface in plane. My saw is not mobile. I gave up on tablesaw mobility back in the early 2000s. The contractor saw I had at that time got a sack of cement tossed into the base to add mass. When moved to a hybrid it tipped the scales at about 400# but I still added the additional CI and anchored it to my router table at one end. The way I started using the saw made my alignment pretty important to me. Every time I moved the saw the alignment was OK for sheet goods and large furniture parts. However, my ability to do accurate tenons, finger joints and other joinery was always hit or miss after moving my previous saws. For me working around a fixed saw position was better than having to fettle things frequently. On the other hand I have no issue moving other machines around so it works OK for me. I understand that not everyone can drop a tablesaw in the middle of the garage and just leave it there
  12. OT or not that is some cool stuff @ jack's site!
  13. They tend to stay in the bucket for a few days while I am finishing. When done I do lay them out in the dirt to dry and then throw them away. The bucket just gives me an easy, safe place for waste until I finish the process. A nine drawer dresser can go through a lot of waste with the flood/wipe, oil/varnish blend method. For these little boxes it is not necessary as much as it is a habit