gee-dub

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gee-dub last won the day on November 21

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About gee-dub

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. I don't know your location but, here in the SoCal desert basin I generously pad on the mixture, wait 20 to 30 minutes and then wipe it off as if I've changed my mind. I apply the next coat right away. Over the years my method has morphed a bit. I use mineral spirits, BLO and a gloss modified phenolic resin (poly). I use a straight sided jar and a stick of scrap. I mark the stick in the increments I want. I can then pour each ingredient till the level reaches the mark. And I use the stick to stir with. My first coat is something like 2:1:1 to act as an initial sealer. The next few coats are 1:1:1 with the last coat(s) being 1:1:2. That is, heavy on the thinner at first and heavy on the poly at the end. The hand application gives me a satin-like finish from the gloss top coat.
  2. Sorry to sound like a broken record. I do not have wood allergies. I’m just a regular person. I was not diligent enough on dust control early on. I now take medication every day and will for the rest of my life. We can’t all do a perfect job of collecting spoil. I do always recommend that you do the best that you can in the room you have and with the budget you have. I also start all responses to the question of “what tools should I get first?” with number one being dust collection. I am not some kind of dust collection wacko that thinks anybody who doesn’t do a perfect job with their dust collection system is doomed to a horrible death. Let’s just use common sense and do the best we can :-)
  3. If the panel is easily reachable and has a couple of slots open I would go 240v. Of course, then you might miss out on the WOW factor when you upgrade later . Seriously though, sounds like you are zeroing in.
  4. A track so is a great addition to a shop with a good table saw.
  5. And anti-static UHMW material as well
  6. Don't mean to Threadjack. When I align my saws my first step is to make the room for my hand as large as is workable. That is, I have the top as far to the right as I can (on a left tilt saw) and then align. I also find that reaching for the nut with my left hand (on a left tilt saw) is easier than using my right although I am right handed. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
  7. Good observations and advice so far. Obviously if things are square and true, they will line up correctly when assembled. Your pictures do not show this happening so there is something out of square somewhere. Small errors add up when multiple parts are assembled so some parts that looks fine on their own can still deliver a "huh!?!" result when put together. You're getting the drift that compound miter saws do great for framing a house, not so great at building furniture. They are accurate to a point but, a lot of furniture joinery compounds small errors by their very nature. Things that are fine for a kitchen upper cabinet may not fly for a china hutch. Your table looks pretty basic (I do not mean that in a negative way at all) so the joinery is pretty straight forward. When using dimensional lumber, checking for square can be a challenge. The material is often irregular along its length so even though each end may check as square, they are out of plane with each other. When one end is fastened to an adjacent surface it pulls the other end out of alignment due to these irregularities. This 36" long 2x4 looks fine but, it has one half a degree of twist: If I attach some nice square legs to it: One end joins well: While the opposite shows signs of trouble: If I add another piece and then another, the problem compounds. One way to get around this is to cut the piece to fit the irregularity. The difficulty of this will depend on how far out of whack your material is. The real fix is to mill your material square and true but, we don't all have jointers and planers and drum sanders. Being creative to work around this is not a bad thing.
  8. The depth stop mechanism on the Jet is of the type people tend to love-to-hate. Not to put too strong a point on it but, I would pass on a DP that used this method. As Dr. Z mentioned I did do a shop-built add-on for my Delta to get away from the "ring" type of depth stop they supplied on some of their DP's. Other than that I found the Jet you show to feel pretty good and appears well built in our world where makers are mysteriously challenged by a fairly basic machine like the drill press. *** disclaimer *** The following is just a pre-coffee stream of consciousness. I don't mean to champion or offend . . . Looking for a decent drill press at a decent price has almost become a secondary hobby for me. I look at what I think are contenders every time I get near one to judge the QA over time. The 15" Jet (the 17" flexes more than I am comfortable with for the price) is nice enough to make me add-on a depth stop but, seems a bit over priced. For about half that price the Grizzly G7944 is a solid, but very basic 14" machine but, I sold a nice 14" machine because I needed more reach too often. For a bit more the Delta 18-900 gets a lot of praise and would be my choice (despite the trepidation on that brand) unless I was willing to push the $$$ to a Nova. The large PM is still worrisome due to the problems with its predecessor. Most issues were fixed but I find floor models to vary widely indicating possible QA issues. Remember that vertical quill slop directly affects your depth accuracy. As I said, it has almost become a hobby within a hobby to seek out a decent DP for a decent price.
  9. I hope we haven't scared you off with all the data. I too am sometimes overwhelmed when I get recommendations from the cumulative experience of a century of woodworkers on here . Our goal is not to overload but, you do have to read through the responses and kind of put them in order as they apply to where you are in the process. Let me try to sum up in order of importance: 1. Align your saw. uh, er, . . . well, I guess that's it in order of importance. I know this has been discussed but, there is aligning your saw and then there is aligning your saw. For cutting boards, the blade to fence is most critical followed by your sled for crosscuts. Well milled material is already critical. When you are going to stack or laminate parts as with a cutting board, any error, no matter how slight, becomes amplified with each layer. Your first picture probably shows the result of using a non-true edge as a reference edge against the fence. The second picture looks like an un-milled edge against a milled edge so that can be improved. One challenge is that any "fixes" you apply to any sub-optimal edges at this point will alter your dimensions. I wouldn't let this slow you down. Unless you're going for something like this: Your irregularities won't kill the board. Patterns like this . . . . . . tolerate boo-boos pretty well. If your current board isn't perfect, it will be a great learning experience and the next one will be that much easier.
  10. I agree a pic would help. If this is a rip cut, how are you creating the flat edge to run along the fence. If you are not creating a flat reference edge, your trouble starts here. Compound that by all the cuts and parts in an end grain cutting board and you have problems. If this is a different cut at a different step, I guess I need a picture ;-)
  11. I'll second wtnhighlander, keep wiping it off and wait it out.
  12. We all tend to recommend those things that we have had success with. I have left DeWalt behind and have replace a few bearings in Bosch routers (Which I really like which explains why I replace the bearings). In contrast, my Milwaukee routers just run, and run, and run. You would normally think that was a recommendation but unfortunately in today’s retail climate, I don’t know that the current Milwaukee’s are as good. My newest Milwaukee is about a 2007. I use them a lot so that speaks to the quality level, at least at that time.
  13. Been using Johnson’s for many years. If your local store doesn’t carry it, online is easy enough. Buy online and free ship to store at many suppliers if you don’t do Prime,
  14. My G0440 does this as well. I think this is caused when enough spoil makes it through to the filter area is collects around the brush at the top "at rest" position. IMHO the brush is just too darned tight a fit. If I remember to use it once a week there is no problem but, I do this less often than not ;-( If I keep my barrel emptied regularly I only get about a cup of talcum-powder-fine dust in the filter bag a couple times a year. If I fail . . . well, you know what happens then.