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gee-dub last won the day on November 21 2019

gee-dub had the most liked content!

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About gee-dub

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. On something I have put time and effort into (especially if it is a commission or a gift) I just re-make fouled elements. My fuse for how long I will spend trying to make something "do" has gotten quite short over the years.
  2. I like it, I like it. Very nice job. The center of the headboard is an interesting choice. Was that your own variation on the theme? Great material choices. Just a side note in case it’s of interest. The Greens did the beautiful design work but IIRC the Halls brought many of the designs to life. This collaboration of designers and builders left behind some pretty amazing work.
  3. Just as the title says. Does anyone have trouble with the oil discharge from a oil based vacuum pump in a woodworking shop?
  4. I reduce the size of blanks before milling whenever possible for all the obvious reasons. This is a blank for a long, thick, painted piece of trim in a saloon so, it is just a bit bigger than the final dimensions. I totally get the reason for the question and for the sake of sharing I should probably not use phrases like "all the obvious reasons" if I am trying to add some value in a forum environment . The "obvious reasons" for breaking down stock before milling may include: Shorter lengths and narrower widths minimize defects such as crook, bow, cup and twist. A four foot board with a 1/4" bow can take a lot of milling to square up. An 18" section of that board with only 3/32" of deviation takes less. Parts broken down and left to re-acclimate can be more stable once final milling is performed. I'm getting old and smaller parts are lighter Some reasons for milling large blanks that are not for large parts might include: Face and edge jointing to prepare a large blank for re-sawing planks or veneers. Economy of effort if you are making a large number of duplicate parts; a series of 6" lengths of a given dimensional blank. The end dimensions of the parts are too small for safe milling operations. Examples might be shaped profiles that are ripped off to make trim, short, fat or just plain awkward shapes that are better cut off of a larger "handler" blank.
  5. If you are not a heavy DP user you can fudge almost anything through a job. I only say this as good drill presses are expensive for some reason (that would be because we will pay it) and you should put your money where it will serve you the best. Dog holes are better dealt with using a router IMHO. Finish up with a Forstner or other quality 3/4" bit. I start the hole with a 3/4" Forstner in a hand held drill to assure accuracy. I can then use this 1/8" or so hole to center the router (mounted to a board that can be clamped in place) and plunge the lion's share of the hole. I finish up with a backer board and a 3/4" Speedbore. The long sides of the Speedbore use the routed hole as a drill guide.
  6. If you think about it, obviously any stock that is not fully supported by the tables or outboard supports will most likely not mill correctly. A jointer cutterhead does not change plane. If your material does during the feed you will foul the cut. Although I wouldn't want to, one could joint long material on a benchtop with adequate outboard supports. I have a fairly long set of beds on mine and still use supports for anything that is not fully supported on the tables.
  7. Beautiful material and an instant keepsake. Love the mitered drawer front detail too.
  8. Hope it helps. Like many figured woods the look we love is often due to a variation in density and grain direction in the wood. There in lies the challenge. I enjoy getting a nice look from some of our coarser choices, shedua, peruvian walnut, lacewood, leopardwood, even the curly and birds-eye boards add a little work to get the surface we're after. Avoid a ROS or other sander that has a soft pad. Even my "hard" rated pad has to be used with care on things like tiger maple. They are fine for the first couple of grits but, you've got to be careful not to end up with a tiger maple washboard . I switch to a hard cork or rubber block once I get to 220 and use it through whatever grit I stop at. Sand a piece of leopardwood scrap to 600 or 1000 and buff it on a wheel with some compound. It will give you some interesting ideas for detail elements on future pieces; pulls, quirts, proud-plugs.
  9. Mick, I'm sorry for taking so long to offer my condolences. I just didn't know what to say.
  10. I have snapped big box store’s screws by hand let alone using power. I switched to McFeely’s and similar screws many years ago. I am sure I broke and one of these better, hardened screws but it’s been so long I don’t remember. I am sure I’ve broken one of these better, hardened screws but it’s been so long I don’t remember. All good advice here about pilot holes and so forth. Also good advice about pre-threading holes for brass screws by using hard steel ones. Quality screws are not expensive and they are worth every penny.
  11. Leopard wood with Seal Coat de-waxed shellac followed by an oil/varnish blend. 1:1:1 mineral spirits, BLO and poly if I recall correctly. The Seal Coat was to keep the Peruvian 'walnut' from bleeding into the leopard wood. Depending on what you are doing you could skip it. These are sanded with a hard cork block with the abrasive drawn very tight. You want a flat unyielding abrasive surface and a steady walk through the grits.
  12. Problem neighbors would steer me off a place. I moved to horse country so I would be left alone. That said, I have never had a bad neighbor even in suburbia. Dirt bikes, Harleys, 120db Rap music . . . they're all annoying. It just so happens that WE do not find our routers and shop vacs to be a problem ;-) I cased my current neighborhood several times at different phases of the day. We have dirt bikes, chickens, horses, tractors, Harleys, and yes, woodworking tools. My new shop is planned to be well insulated. The DC will be in a an insulated lean-to off the back. It will have less noise transfer than when I lived 20 feet from a neighbor so I don't expect any trouble. I agree that you see what the local code is for noise. I wouldn't mention a wood shop as that can run up a red flag for some locales. We all want to be considerate of our neighbors but, we live here too. My rule of thumb in suburbia was no earlier than 7am or whenever I heard the first yard machine. If someone is running a yard blower, it's game on. I also knocked off by 9pm. If you plan, there is plenty to be done that doesn't make noise for outside your local noisy hours. P.s. Oh darn, I just remembered back in the 70's. A lady 4 acres away repeatedly called the cops because I was disturbing her chickens and they would lay well. There's always one whack-job. Hope your neighborhood is whack-job free.
  13. Sweet looking little table. Love the material and the design.
  14. Another nice job. Boxes are fun and can be challenging.