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gee-dub last won the day on November 18

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About gee-dub

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    Master Poster

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  • Location
    : SoCal
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture for your home and office in general. Greene and Greene influenced in particular.

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  1. gee-dub

    Things that would be faster with CNC

    All hail perforated steel strapping. I'm sure the "tipping point" for CNC has been calculated many times. I'm also sure it is as accurate as "drinking coffee" or "drinking wine" studies are that are funded by coffee and wine companies.
  2. gee-dub

    New Planer - Ripples

    Excellent. I hope that you'll be pleasantly surprised.
  3. It does but, then I can't find the tape!
  4. gee-dub

    Tool stand

    I actually used plastic shoe boxes. These are about a buck, have snap on lids that keep dust out and can be pushed to one side or the other as required. One holds all the Ridgid spindle/belt accessories and the other holds spare abrasives, sleeves and belts.
  5. Masking tape will but, clear scotch tape does not in my experience.
  6. gee-dub

    Bandsaw Reindeer with a Twist

    Yet another great use for scraps. Well done.
  7. gee-dub

    New Planer - Ripples

    I feel like you may be beating a dead horse here ;-) My similar-style Grizzly G0453Z uses this setup which is what I confirmed upon delivery, it was near-perfect. All I did was lower the bed rollers below the table and back off the pressure on the feed rollers as had been recommended on several forums over many years of this planer's (and other clones) production. The factory setting are more for planing things with a texture like railroad The bed roller tension is adjusted here on mine. I backed mine off so far I put a drop of hot-melt glue on the screw/casting junction to make sure they didn't vibrate looser (and maybe pop out). I was being over careful perhaps. Either that or the glue has held for 9 years of use. I really hope Jet helps you get this resolved. It is a fairly simple machine and setup should be very straight forward unless something is amiss. If there is anything else I can check on my machine, take pictures of, etc. let me know, I am glad to try to help.
  8. gee-dub

    New Planer - Ripples

    On this style of planer, light cuts do not yield optimal results. I still get light marks as shown on that walnut if I am taking much under 1/16”. You have to remove enough material to remove the serration marks.
  9. gee-dub

    New Planer - Ripples

    Sorry Steve, I don't understand what the labels on the pics mean. Is the top one the jointer and the bottom the planer? If so, I stand by my opinion that something is very out of whack with that machine. I have never had a machine give wonky results like that, used or new right off the pallet. I do dial my machines in for the best result I can get but, you have been through this thing a few times and it is still mangling your material. Have you sent a pic to Jet? I don't recall if you said that earlier.
  10. gee-dub

    Sun porch accessories

    Nice figure match up on those boards. The straight edge and router is a solid workaround for no jointer. I reinforce my straightedge at the joint with a clamp and a bit of scrap just as you show. Keeps things nice and reliable during the operation.
  11. gee-dub

    Wall Cabinet - Clark Kellogg Inspired

    Thanks guys. I'm just recycling things I learned from others. The forums are great for sharing what we've learned, learning new things or being reminded that Grandpa's egg beater might be handy. I had pulled mine out quite a while back during a clean-up-and-organize effort and found a place for it. It gets used more than I would have thought.
  12. About a year ago Fine Woodworking Mag had an article on a Clark Kellogg piece that stuck in my mind. I owe the LOML a small cabinet for displaying some personal items. I am drawing heavily from Clark's design in FWW and on his site. This is my take. I will be making it out of some tiger maple that I think I shared earlier. It has been waiting around to turn into something. Like Clark, I start with the curved door. Per his recommendation it is easier to adjust the curve of the carcass than to fit the door to a given curve. Makes sense to me, I'm going for it. A curved bottom plane makes quick work of the small door panel. A more-flexible-than-most Veritas card scraper cleans things up nicely. The other side is convex so a No4 sized plane takes care of that. And here's the rough blank for the door. This is just a demo of how something like a known thickness gift card scrap can augment your setup blocks. The extra small increment centered my mortises on my layout lines for the Domino. The dividers in the case are wedge shaped to give me the look I am after. The same bench plane as before takes care of this. The Incra rule is handy for this sort of layout. I must confess that I had questioned the value of a Domino as I have had it for some time but, never found it quite the right tool for the job. It really shows its worth in production style mortising. The layout lines on the dividers are used for the layout on the top and bottom. Part of the layout work with the setup blocks was the reference line for the marked divider to be positioned. I just use the same marks for plunging the mating mortises for these slip tenons. And here's a dry fit. There are a lot of ways to do knife hinges, here's mine. I apologize for being picture heavy. I hope it helps some folks. I use the washer to create an offest from the side where the hinge will mount. I do this to achieve an equal reveal all around the door. These Brusso hinges do not want to give up their washers so . . . I use another piece of gift card; perfect fit. The light blue line you can sort of see is the front curve of the door panel. The hole in the hinge centers on this line. A steel rule will help me square the hinge leaf with the carcass and provide a consistent position. Here's the gift card scrap standing in for the washer. An there's your spot. I use a marking knife to mark the position so I can return after the next step. My fingers show where I will scribe along the front and at the square end. Here I have marked it in pencil to make it easier to see in the pics. I stick the leaves on double stick tape. Trim to fit. Using a knife in the previously made cut as a stop I position the leaf and press it down to stick. Now, with the tape giving me super-human strength, I can mark around the hinge easily. And it's like so. I'm going to hog out (can you way "hog-out" when it is only about a cc of material?) the waste with a Dremel and clean it up with a chisel. I zero the bit and use the leaf to set the final depth of cut. And there you go. When you press these in to check the fit you can use the other leaf to lever it back out. I use the tape trick again for the door half of the hinges. I use something flat to help me set the hinge flush with the door edge. The other axis is set by the edge of the door dividing the hinge pin hole in half. I use a wheel gauge to cut the fibers where the mortise will extend past the face and edge of the door panel for a clean cut. The door is narrow so I add some scrap for support as well as a backer function. And it comes out like so. I use Grandpa's egg beater drill for delicate work like this. Dry fit the case yet again with the carcass side of the knife hinges attached (I just use one screw for now). Place the other half of the hinges on the pins and slide the door on. Again I attach the door with just one screw top and bottom for now. Open Sesame! I will add more as I go. I am only able to hit this project off an on for a while but, I will try not to drag it out too long ;-)
  13. gee-dub

    New Planer - Ripples

    These are off my Grizzly G0453Z. This is a 15" spiral head with 74 inserts. They face square to the feed direction. That is, they are not angled like a Byrd head. I think you will be happier if you just accept that something is very wrong with that machine. You should be seeing this: This is still no where near a surface I would put finish on but, you can see that your machine should get you a lot closer to that state then it is. Even though I have the pressure on the feed rollers backed way off I will still get serration marks on soft woods like mahogany or when taking a very light pass. Here's a good example of that on some walnut: That is a 3/8" wide chisel for scale. This is the inside of a rail support that will never be seen. This is typical of a surface I get if I try to use this machine like a finish planer . . . which it is not ;-). One is better off to use a card scraper, hand plane or even a sanding block when you only need a 64th or so more, taken off. P.s. I got my curiosity up and so went back to the original pictures of me unpacking and setting mine up. I had the plywood box off at 8:17 am and planed my first board at 10:40 am. All I had to do was level the extensions, lower the bed rollers and lighten the tension on the feed rollers.
  14. gee-dub

    DAP Rapid Fuse adhesive

  15. gee-dub

    I need a power scrapper!

    I would still use at least a citrus stripper. Whether I did or not a carbide scraper is a good inexpensive investment. I have this one and use it for many things. Easy to sharpen.