gee-dub

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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. It is an insert head. The chips are very small similar to what you get from a sharp chainsaw. Clogging has never been a problem but I get spoil kicked up onto the infeed table area from the head. That is no longer happening :-)
  2. Lots of putting things away and throwing things out so not a lot to show . . . that shows. Upped the jointer to 6". The difference in performance? Substantial!
  3. @curlyoak Priorities shift based on the ability to get things done by others. Current layer cake of honey-do's is to trick out the kitchen cabinets (custom features and so forth), redo the cabinets in the baths after someone else remodels them, then make a full bedroom set while the master bedroom is getting re-done (by someone else). The honey-do's will wait on some shop fixtures to some degree. I have a few items that need to be made for the shop in order to start some parts of things for the house. I foresee a lot of tandem activities ;-)
  4. The right end of my tablesaw has always been no-man's-land. I used to use that area for ducting, electrical and a gateway to the Twilight Zone. That area is now wide open and requires a change in my thinking. I have things that stay at the saw like . . . . These items used to hang from the side of the cyclone that was ear-blisteringly close to the tablesaw operator position on the right side. I have planned a swath of wall behind me for such things in the new shop but then I notice the right end of the saw as it appears now . . . Some scrap strips and some of that pegboard my dad got scads of for free when a paint store was going out downtown . . . we're talking the '60s here. Dad stored and used it for years. I got a couple dozen 2'x4' panels when he was thinning the heard years ago. Still using it . . . Anyway . . . presto.
  5. More like the Dopey Decimal System
  6. You just can't dodge that IBM Blue ;-) Things don't always unpack in the order that suits you best. Three containers had about 80% of what goes in this cabinet though.
  7. Son in law and his brother came by and moved a couple of large metal cabinets for me. This one is an IBM mainframe tape reel storage cabinet. Notice the family resemblance? It now serves a higher purpose. On to cabinet number two . . .
  8. Looking even better with age.
  9. That is a beauty Coop. Class act donating it for auction. I need to look into getting cypress around here. The back patio area is getting close enough to done for me to start thinking about some furniture for out there.
  10. My small bandsaw gets waltzed around a bit. I move other machines as you describe; a little angle or nudge here and there for convenience. Despite the wheels they mostly stay put ;-)
  11. Thanks all! @pkinnebI can do better than that. Here's a link to the thread on a variation that I built for large or odd clamps. The originals are shown as well. There should be a SketchUp screen capture in there with dimensions. The arm spacing and length will vary with your clamps. I make mine so that they hold 90% of my clamp types. I'll see if I posted the original build here . . . Nope. Let me know if you need more info. Basically a 3/4" oak dowel acts as dowel nuts. A pilot hole is drilled and a long, high quality, wood screw is driven in. A second slightly shorter wood screw is piloted and screwed about 1-1/2" below the first to prevent twisting. Double head nails are cut short and inserted to keep things from lifting off the cleat. Unnecessary most places by I live in earthquake country. These have been holding heavy, heavy clamp loads for years of dynamic use without failure so I feel pretty confident about them. The modified version (three arms versus three pairs of arms) is for large head or wide bar clamps that do not fit the standard 3-pair of arms version. Their value will depend on your arsenal. Easily modified. The thing that pays off for me is a pretty standard width and height so things interchange nicely.
  12. I remember posting a shop-tour-2018 and a few folks commented that it looked a bit claustrophobic . . . understatement. I wish I had video of me building a project in that shop. At high speed it would look like I was doing some techo-dance moves the way I had to Outside Turn, Pirouette, Inside Turn my way through the shop. The biggest gift to myself in building this shop is space-to-work. Still in motion but, here's some more progress pics. The Dual Reverse Giggle Bearing Influx De-modulator . . . I mean the ceiling plate to flex to EMT section. Inside the wire ways. It's starting to feel like home. Milling area looking toward the jointer. Milling area looking toward the planer. 90 more degrees clockwise. The tablesaw area looks the same but has new power cords run. Most importantly I jointed a board, planed it, re-sawed a plank off and sanded it testing all the blast gates and dust collection. Although a few machine are still using 4" hose I will call the DC a success so far. Shop made 6" hoods will bring the jointer and planer to 6" direct connections.
  13. My compadre and I took the fence carriage off the jointer and then took the jointer off the base. This allowed us to muscle it onto a dolly and get it into the shop where we reassembled it. Flush with our success we refer-dollied the bandsaw out to the shop. We then surveyed the 600 lb planer . . . hmmm . . . I called my son in law. He muscled it onto a dolly he had brought along and wheeled it out to the shop in nothing flat. We got a little work done on the power as well and hope to have both power risers live by EOD tomorrow.
  14. Not Richard but, the coffee kicked in and I am feeling chatty . I have used HVAC fitting on the exhaust side with good success. Rectangle to round transitions are not rare. Finding one that fits or is close enough to field modify easily may be the challenge. Try searching with the term 'register box'. That may hep.
  15. My two cents . . . Like so many things, cleaning your blade takes just a few minutes if you don't let it go too long. I have a plastic tray from the dollar store and some L.A.Awesome from the same place. I also have a heavy plastic "toothbrush" format parts cleaning brush. They come in packs from Harbor Freight for cheap and I have been using the first one for years. Put the blade in the tray, spray with L.A. Awesome, and go back to the saw and do a quick maintenance check of bearings, fasteners, etc. Go back to the tray and brush around the teeth lightly making sure you get the face of the tooth. Rinse, dry and return the blade to the saw or put it in the rack as appropriate. A lot of our routine maintenance tasks take just moments if we do them regularly. As to when to clean . . . Whenever the teeth have build up on them that isn't blasting clear with use. As to when to sharpen . . . when you notice increased effort to perform an operation. If you miss this indicator, watch for reduced performance in the form of rough cuts or burning; this would indicate you are overdue. I keep a pair of my most used blades on hand. That way I am not stopped when a set goes out for sharpening. Sending them in multiples also saves on postage. I used to have a good local sharpener but like so many of my local service based companies, the quality has dropped to where I cannot use them. I imagine the old strokers have retired like I have and left the work to the next wave.
  16. The second vertical member is in. This was delayed while I experimented with 2-1/2" tablesaw-overarm / router-table-fence collection versus 4". There's a ton of math you can throw at dust collection but I just went for plain old empirical data. That is; a real world test. The 2-1/2" proved best for me in this installation. That picture makes it look like the overhead is "T" connected. It is actually like so . . . You can just ignore the temporary tape and what-not; this is a mid-fabrication shot . I used commercial plastic blast gates in these positions. I had them on hand and things got a little crowded and clumsy when I tried to fit the self-cleaning style that I make myself. We'll see how this goes. A shop is always evolving so if an alteration is required later on it won't be the first or the last. The 2-1/2" hose will also serve the tablesaw overarm in some fashion as yet to be determined. It won't be green painter's tape . Velcro straps are likely the solution here. The aperture into the guard is quite small so I may have to field modify the hose attachment location as well. I don't use the overarm a lot but time will tell. I am now ready to build out the electrical wire ways that will serve the two groups of machines. First I want to play with the 8" adjustable elbow at the DC exhaust to see if I can make the noise more acceptable.
  17. Wonderful job as usual Dave. A suitable piece for his high end gear. I hope he gets you a good pic of it all installed. As a bit of an audio buff in my younger (when I could hear the difference) days I always enjoy Hi-Fi eye candy.
  18. This particular table needed to be mobile and also required some height adjustment capability. It didn't need 'on the fly' adjustability but I did want it to have a decent range since things change. You can see the threaded shafts in the first picture in the preceding post. These are carriage bolts. The "legs" of the top have counterbores and through holes to accept the shafts and nuts. These allow for a range of travel. Shims can be placed between the top/leg assembly and the top of the drawer box/bolts. The top is then tightened down at the shimmed height via the knobs. In this picture from the old shop there are no shims: In the new shop I inserted a 1/4" shim. This has been a good solution for a surface where I need occasional adjustment and mobility. It would not work well for frequent height changes.
  19. I'm continuing to move items out as their spots become ready. It's getting to look more and more familiar. Here's a shot of the access way for the ducting created by the outfeed top butting against the tablesaw rear fence rail.
  20. Exhaust roughed in. Once I am satisfied the insulation, wallboard and overhead support will go in. I have an adjustable elbow that goes on the outside that I will experiment with. I will also add something to keep the bats and birds from nestling down only to be blasted to the next county when the DC fires up ;-)
  21. There's a sticky note on my keyboard right now reminding me to frame out the exhaust area of the DC shed. It is common for me to put Post-Its on projects prior to quitting for the day so I don't forget where I was when I start again in the morning. Pathetic but a reality
  22. Any SCUBA shop will have you covered .
  23. The router table duct will run nearly on the ground with a 3/16" strip between pipe and concrete. The tablesaw duct will run parallel to this for most of the distance. I was pondering various straps and brackets to hold all this securely. I gave it up yesterday and decided to sleep on it. Is it wrong that I do my best thinking when I am asleep? I decided to do this . . . you set up your tablesaw for cove cutting and take after a piece of stock. The thickness at the thinnest point is 2-7/16". This just turned out to be the measurement accommodating the wye positions and the height of the tablesaw port. The tablesaw duct sets on top like so. I cut the blank into three sections. These have a blob of silicone glue where each pipe sets in the "cradles" of the blocks. This is certainly more than enough support vertically. If the pipes aren't secure enough for my liking once the silicone cures I can add straps.
  24. @wtnhighlander My current unit is a 2HP Grizzly (G0440) which is designed with a 7" inlet. I am hoping to milk some more life out of it with careful 6" duct routing. I built the DC shed scaled for a 5HP in both size and electrical in the event that the 2HP just can't do the job. Here's the t-shirt levitation test at the farthest port: This is how tape measures and safety glasses disappear during DC tests
  25. Bumped the router table port to 6". Had to go gorilla with a recip-saw from the motor cavity; not pretty but appropriately sized. The PRL is impatient to get back into the table. This is a duplicate of the milling area vertical floor anchor. This vertical will serve the upper and lower tablesaw, router table plus a gated spare port for ad hoc use.