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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. Well done. That came out very nice.
  2. Just making an assumption; it seems the gentleman was trying to widen his profit margin through misrepresentation of what would be delivered and what was actually delivered. My condolences to the OP. I think we all have experiences in life somewhere back down the road that taught us a painful but lasting lesson.
  3. If you don’t have some sort of roller support or better yet a fixed stand that you can put multiple types of tops on, I would stop and make one or run to the store and buy one. This is a reasonably priced Rockwell product I picked up at Lowe’s on sale. The wooden glide bar took just a short time to cobble together and has served its purpose very well. It can act as an out feed catch, a side feed support like what you’re looking for, or a third hand due to the angle and pivot mechanism of the base.
  4. The used market can be good some places and a desert in another. Alas, we are sometimes victims of our geography. For example, I feel the pain every time someone "back east" posts about a killer deal on some maple or cherry. In the SoCal desert basin about the only bargain I see consistently is red oak which I don't care to build with. Jet and Powermatic have 15% off sales with some consistency. Saw Stop offers a free mobile base or over-arm guard as a recurring sales stimulus as well. It sounds like you are being diligent in your research. Once you have a good handle on your short-list of "gotta haves" you will be ready to pounce on the deal that comes along regardless of brand. For my first upgrade from a contractor saw my short-list was: Cast iron top and wings. Reliable fence. Enough power. I don't see that you mention having 240volt power or not. This is generally an easy add if you do not have it and it opens up the larger saw tier to you. Again, as I said, the 3HP+ tier is not necessary but, fairly common for folks that plan to do a reasonable amount of work at the tablesaw.
  5. Like Mick, I feel the SS is priced with other saws of that quality and the safety feature is just a bonus. People pay more for other colors of paint that are at this quality tier without the tech. That being said, I bought a used Craftsman/Emerson contractor saw for $80, threw another $200 at it in after-market stuff (PALs, Fence, belt/pulleys) and it served me well for years. Once my ability improved and the saw became the limiting factor, I upgraded. I see this as a reasonable path for beginners if the used market is robust in their area. I would not buy a poor second hand saw as all that will do is frustrate you. My Craftsman/Orion 22124 hybrid did all I ever needed. I upgraded to the 3HP Saw Stop as a windfall made that possible with minimal financial impact. If not for that I might still be using the hybrid. While the step up to the 3HP cab saw is an eye-opening experience for the home hobbyist, it is not a requirement. Good luck, ask lots of questions, filter the replies based on what you need and have fun.
  6. Maybe I'm just ham-handed but, it seems like half the time when I dump the rail connectors out of the little storage tube I drop the wrench. Makita did a good job of providing a storage spot for the blade wrench in the handle of the saw. I'm sure someone thought of this or something like it before but, a piece of tubing and the unused side of that handle-hole make a stash spot for the rail connector wrench. Your mileage may differ but, the tubing I had that fit snugly on the wrench was just a bit small to fit snug in the hole. I just snipped a section out to create a flap to fill the gap. The end of the tube in my hand is out of focus but, you can sort of see the internal shape. This happens to be oxygen hose from the last time someone was in the hospital. Apparently I scrounge all sorts of . . . stuff from wherever I happen to be. It goes in and out without coming loose from the tubing and stays put while I'm working. Now I can setup and tear-down without fumbling the wrench half the time.
  7. gee-dub

    New router

    Whiteside 4RU5200 although I agree that in a plunge, an upcut spiral of that size can tend to act like a drill bit. When using a 3/4" upcut spiral to cut dog holes, you really have to be ready; I have the plunge router clamped in posotopn before I start the plunge with those babies. I run upcuts for mortise that will be hidden by the shoulders of the mating piece and downcut for mortise that may show the edge. Upcuts clear the chips faster, downcuts are more friendly to veneers or fibrous woods.
  8. This seems fairly specific. What model saw are you using out of curiosity? This will help others with your saw to avoid the product. Works fine on a Saw Stop, Orion hybrid and a Delta. I assume it also works on many others or they wouldn't be able to sell them. I had a contractor that I couldn't move the trunnions far enough to suit me; I wanted a larger gap to reach my hand in for blade changes. I turned the holes into slots and got the extra little bit I was after. I assume the same thing might allow this item to work as desired. On the other hand there are other options that don't require saw-surgery ;-)
  9. Settling in nicely. Looks like the gallery divider cutouts work fine. I like the dowel/saw handle rest idea. Gives me some ideas; thanks!
  10. This is a great example of where you could "see" what you were after. The journey had some of us wondering about this or that. In the end they are just wonderful. A testament to your vision and your drive to bring it into being. Kudos!
  11. Is that gap a skinny 1/8"? If so I would probably pare about a 32nd or so off each hinge landing surface, door and case. Probably a lot of "right" ways to do this depending on what that dimension is. Either way it is a small amount of work for a big payoff. Just take your time and use care. JMHO.
  12. Looking good. I think its a keeper.
  13. That is a massively majestic looking piece. Very nice!
  14. gee-dub

    Baby on board!

    I got all teary eyed there for a moment. Congrats!
  15. Just to add to your data; for what it would bring in my area I just gave mine away. It was a good machine for what it was intended for.
  16. I actually laid out my new shop plan with an area under the tallest portion of the roof pitch for vertical lumber storage. I have also found that over time I can get away with having the yard crosscut longer pieces at a good location, figure wise. That is, there are locations on many boards that I would never use as a continuous run due to undesirable figure. I have 14 foot board cut in two at that location. This can solve your "too-tall-Paul" problem when it comes to vertical storage. Once you savor the advantages of not having to un-stack horizontal lumber piles to get to the board you want, you will get pretty inventive in order to store vertically
  17. Awesome. I find woodworkers to be a resourceful and clever bunch. Thanks!
  18. @Mark J I find the standing on their head storage method very appealing. I just needed to jam more into a smaller lineal footprint (If I used that word right). I have seen narrow shelves, wall-mounted, with K-Body clamps standing on their head; very slick idea. PS what’s going on with those cordless drill motors on the right hand side of your clamp rig? That looks like a clever idea we’re sharing.
  19. Sleds get used so often they lean on the dust collector To the right of the tablesaw operator position. Other jigs kind of stack library books style on a raised platform tilted back towards the wall about 3°. This is nothing that allows quick and easy access but it does allow me to pile a lot of jags and a small footprint.
  20. LOL. Recent move. New digs. Don’t even have decent power yet.
  21. I believe I did a thread on the style of clamp rack I settled on a while back. The "v2" design was primarily Bessey K-Body focused so that gives you a time frame of when I started using this form. My deep-reach and other "odd" clamps often ended up in the raters or who-knows-where. I wanted to improve that and ended up with a variation on the form that I already use which is this: The variation is a narrow overall, three-arm affair. This allows me to hold deep, large head, and other odd clamps while spacing the fixtures on the cleat as best suits the situation. In my defense, the shop is non-operational right now . . . . . . so I made these with a circ-saw, bandsaw and a drill motor. The Big Gator drill guide came in handy. Parts and sub-assemblies. Got these things up off the floor finally. I always make a few spares of these sorts of things as making a few more now is only a fraction of the effort of making more later. Now I think I have enough room to start moving machines into their general positions so I can set them up.
  22. I often use both on pieces I may only make one of. Templates and piece-specific "setup" boards or sticks assure accuracy. As Chestnut says, for ganged parts or mating joinery you can mark directly on the pieces. Where to mark in the first place is where the value of the templates come in.