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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. gee-dub

    Dust Collection - use of flex hose

    I would be more concerned about the hard right angle it sounds like you will take. If the flex is to be used as a long sweep elbow between horizontal and vertical, I would say that would be better than a rigid "L". As usual, a picture will get you better responses since we don't have to guess.
  2. gee-dub

    Matt's Hand Tool Cabinet

    Another hockey tape guy here. No gooey residue from 3M. I did try some "sports tape" from one of the big box sports stores and it was pretty pathetic. I did cut grooves and use some Plasti-dip long ago: Although the Plasti-dip held up great, the hockey tape with the "cord" wrap gives me a better grip. Sorry for the minor thread-jack.
  3. gee-dub

    Wood finishes for beginner set

    I'll offer a different suggestion. Stocking up on many finish products (and glue for that matter) has never worked out for me. Any money I saved gets thrown out with the product that has turned bad before I could use it up. I am a one man shop and only crank out 5 or 6 large projects a year At my pace, things like mineral spirits, DNA and dyes can be kept usable for a long time. I use a lot of shellac so I get that by the gallon but, oils and stains I buy as needed.
  4. What drzaius and RichardA said; find another way, you will hurt your airflow too much with your plan. Many times people do not think about back-pressure in DC systems. If your filter bag is blowing up like a balloon, get more filter media. Exhausting outside is Nirvana, don't exit the freeway into a wall.
  5. gee-dub

    Darrell Peart is in the House!!

    With the exception of the inevitable gray sneaking in, Darrell is ageless. His enthusiasm for the craft and his favored styles are unwavering and contagious. Looks like a great time was had by all, including the instructor ;-)
  6. gee-dub

    Design Opinions requested

    If you want to reinforce the feel that these are separate items stacked, the different rails and stile widths amplify that. If you want the feel of a whole unit with multiple features, I would make the R&S the same, or very close dimensions. Maybe stepped by a small percentage on the upper but, not the large difference you show. Again, depending on what you are trying to "say". JMHO.
  7. gee-dub

    Need help with picking plywood

    Easy visual determination of BB ply versus veneered ply.
  8. gee-dub

    Need Table saw fence recommendation

    The rear rail on t-square style fences is generally to support the wings of the saw. The front rail serves this purpose on the front along with holding the tube that the fence ride on and locks to. Although it is a nice setup, by the time you get everything required to make a VSCT fence work you are well into the tier of a few quality fence systems. On a previous saw, I converted my 30" Biesemeyer commercial fence into a 40" by moving the tube over one set of holes. When you mention your 48" dimension is that the rip capacity you want to the right of the blade? If so, the next common length is 52" which, as you can see in your link, ups the price a respectable amount. If 36" to 40" of rip capacity will do you, a 30" fence system with the tube shifted to the right will get you there. The fences themselves also come in different lengths (front to back). My Bies was a long beast as shown above. My Saw Stop is several inches shorter but, this has been inconsequential. P.s. I found 30" to be too short most of the time and 40" to be long enough most of the time. The difference in moving the tube saved me from buying new rails.
  9. Peachtree code SHOP17 I find item 3325 quite handy.
  10. gee-dub

    concerning chisel and dado/groove sizes

    Ding, ding, ding. Agreed. Like router bits, there are a few basic chisels and then dozens of "other" chisels.
  11. gee-dub

    Making an 80 deg bevel cut on TS

    - or -
  12. gee-dub

    Outdoor Rocker

    Sweet color on a very cool looking rocker. Nicely done.
  13. I'll offer another approach. Consider the panel elements as slats. Put a chamfered tongue and groove on them and skip the bisquits and the glue. At 3/4" thick a running T&G would work well. Half laps work too but, I think your size is past what I would do without a captured tongue. If T&G seems fussy, a spline and groove can work as well. Your stock would have the chamfer at each meeting edge to create the v-groove look in your diagram. You would want to make the spline out of your same stock.
  14. I keep a folder of wood working things I would like to get around to someday. I am recovering from a torn retina and was setting around feeling bored and morose when I remembered that folder. These are more or less right out of Woodsmith 221 and ShopNotes 116 with modifications to suit my use and preferences. My Delta 17-950 drill press has stuck around basically because I cannot find a better one for even three times what I paid for it. Someday I'll own a big-boy DP but, for now, this one has features and quality that does the job. The one exception (OK, there's more than one but, I digress) is the depth stop. This is the farthest up the old Delta food chain you could go and still get the old Shopmaster type depth stop that came on everything from this DP down to their little baby DP's. The rotating collar depth stop mechanism is not bad if well implemented. Delta has cheaped-out this feature over the years to where it is now most frustrating to use. I dug into the folder and find this depth stop from Woodsmith 221 . . . Fundamentally simple and really just a wood version of the offering on many commercial DP's. You need a threaded rod, a bracket for it to go through and a collar that clamps to your quill. Your DP will be different so there is a little effort to adjust the measurements. I opted for threaded inserts versus nuts or bolt-heads sticking out in most places. I also opted for an acorn nut since I know I will be the one to rake the back of my hand across an exposed nut. I picked up a couple of quick-nuts from McMaster-Carr and was amazed at the speed of their delivery; 2 days. So I can now quickly and easily set the quill in a lowered position. Or set the depth of a hole with threaded precision. I can now just pretend this thing isn't even there. Another jig I have been meaning to take the time to build is a template jig for the bandsaw. I am reasonably proficient at following the line but, if you have to make 8 or 10 of the same thing, a template speeds things along and keeps them consistent. The purpose of this jig is just to bring the blank to within 1/16" of the line. A trip to the router table and a template bit finish things off. Again, the build is pretty basic. The ShopNotes 116 version used magnets to hold the jig in place. In my Greene and Greene world I am template routing blanks that would push almost any magnet across a smooth metal surface. I modified the design for clamps. This pic just shows how the jig would clamp to the larger bandsaw's fence. The blade in the pic is not correct nor is the jigs actual position. Here on the smaller bandSaw, an appropriate blade size and jig position are shown. It clamps on like so. The operation relies on the 'nose' being set just above the stock thickness and riding against the template that is attached to the blank. The blade is recessed about 1/16" into the slot at the top of the 'nose'. The template is then used as is to finish things off at the router table.
  15. gee-dub

    Reaction to wood dust - extreme fatigue -unique?

    Never used to bother me till I started woodworking pretty regular without proper dust collection. Unfortunately, once your system gets abused it rarely recovers. I have good DC now but, am on medication for the rest of my life. This is why I go a bit psycho, now and then, when folks are nonchalant on DC threads; you hate to see anyone else go down that road
  16. gee-dub

    Midcentury Modern TV Stand

    I grew up with MCM in the house till I was 8 or 9 and the move to darker, heavier stuff hit. Your piece takes me back. Nicely done. I have learned (mostly) to not mention the things that most folks won't ever notice (but, I still see them from across the room). Great look, dimensions and stance. I really like it.
  17. I do a bit of a how to on knife hinges in this thread:
  18. gee-dub

    Jet JWBS-14SFX 14 inch bandsaw

    This is an easy way to keep the upper wheel/assembly from slapping around during shipment. I have also received saws with foam blocks surrounding the upper wheel/assembly. Good tip on the table going on after initial alignment. When I am doing a routine maintenance on a bandsaw, pulling the table is usually third right after pulling the power and removing the blade. Unless you are running the same blade for everything, getting used to resetting the guides will come with repetition. Looks like a nice saw, fence and miter gauge. No need to upgrade right off the bat which is a plus at times. Congrats and enjoy your new tool.
  19. gee-dub

    Out-feed Table

    I have eliminated those from my shop. They leave compression trails on heavier stock that telegraph through when finish is applied. I tried to re-purpose them for a bandsaw outfeed but, found they quickly fouled and would not roll well without a lot of attention. I replaced them with casters for the bandsaw where heavy stock has to move in a non-linear fashion. Waxed surfaces seem to work well for tablesaw and other straight-line feed paths.
  20. gee-dub

    Easiest plunge router

    Sorry to hear the Milwaukees have gone downhill. Mine plunge with one hand but, are from a time gone by maybe(?). Since you already have one maybe play with removing/weakening the return spring on the lock and/or remove a turn or two on the plunge springs?
  21. gee-dub

    Hello I am newbie from UK

    Greetings, glad to have you.
  22. gee-dub

    Mortiser Bits

    I use the Rockler set that goes on sale now and again.
  23. gee-dub

    Gluing End Grain Cutting Boards

    Interesting in that I never gave the alignment of the final glue-up much consideration(?). I'm sure this one is off here and there but, I no one seemed to notice. Be that as it may, the salt trick does work, silica sand does too. You can also do two of three strips at a time and then glue up the sub-assemblies.
  24. gee-dub

    ZCIs for the PM2000B

    The old Emerson/Craftsman 113. saws had a thin insert. Although my ZCI's were thicker and fitted via a rabbet around the outer edge, I still stiffened them with a piece of hardwood laminated to the bottom lengthwise. This was easy to do and made a definite improvement for those fussy cuts that put pressure on the ZCI. If you do this, remember to take the direction of your tilt into account. Been so long ago I couldn't find a pic. Just tossing this out there ;-)
  25. gee-dub

    Antique Chest Drawer Wood

    I’m going with the mahogany family.