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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. I do like the Incra flip stop. I just happened to have already standardized on the Rockler stuff before I bought the gauge. I use the same Rockler stops on the miter gauge, DP fence and router table fence. Its a paradox; I will try to make items in the shop do double-duty to avoid snow-drifts of accessories and will then turn around and have 3 or 4 of something so I can have one at each station where I use it
  2. Very nice indeed. Happy clients make my day.
  3. Artists brushes and oils or acrylics are your friend. When you are done with your overall finish you can touch up and/or blend irregularities with a small sable hair brush. I keep a tube of burnt umber, black, blue, red, yellow and white in a small plastic box with my small brushes. I can mix these to match anything from figured maple to black walnut. I got mine from someone who paints. The small amounts left in her tubes have lasted me for years. Once you have "painted" the fix on your topcoat will render it nearly invisible . . . depending on severity ;-)
  4. Here's an idea I tried awhile back and have never left. Mill a bit of hardwood to fit inside the Incra tube. I milled a couple of feet and have not run out yet. It only takes a few inches to make a new "flag". I have a few "flags" for various tasks. They all change out quickly with one screw that happened to already have a hole in the extrusion. It was one of those cobbled together solutions that stuck with me. My miter gauge fence is highly modified from the original intent but, the addition of the sacrificial "flag" could still work on a stock tube.
  5. No. I put the pivot point off center to take care of that. You loosen the clamp (these are $6 Harbor Freight specials), raise the handle end and then lower the bar a few inches. The toggle swings into line with the bar courtesy of gravity and you pull them out.
  6. You'd need an awfully thin bench top to use those. For those with slightly thicker tops: As to the pads; back when those clamps first came out, I emailed Irwin about buying some and they sent me a dozen(???).
  7. Looks like he is using one of Rockler's offerings.
  8. Yes welcome. I'll just mention that adding additional info to existing threads still adds value to the folks who come after us. I just don't expect to necessarily see any response to my additions. Again, welcome.
  9. gee-dub

    Dealing with HOA

    Noisiest leaf blower you can find, run full blast during their favorite shows. Explain to the HOA that you MUST keep your yard in shape per the HOA rules and yard equipment is noisy. You feel really bad and conflicted about it but, if you have to disappoint the neighbors or the HOA, the HOA comes first ;-) P.S. File this under useless info . . . I don't have the realtor even bother to show me any house that has HOA's, Mello-Roos, etc. Houses in those locations are a non-starter.
  10. Same here. The single 4 inch connected to a 6 inch main heading to my 2 hp cyclones leaves very little behind. I am concerned that they’re going to change the conveyor mechanism. The 16/32 had some early issues with that. I assume they have been resolved to where they’re not breaking driveshafts anymore. Not trying to rain on anyone’s parade. Just something to be aware of and ask about.
  11. Congrats! I wanted my DP stable but, mobile. A couple of bucks for a 90# bag of Redi-crete, some plastic and some plywood. Years later I added some drawers.
  12. Drop-cut slot on the router table is my usual method. Determine the bits final height then lower it X number of turns to leave it 1/8" proud. Put stops on the router table fence for the starting and ending positions of the material. Drop at starting position and make the first pass then lift off. raise bit a couple of turns and run the material again. Repeat till full depth is accomplished. Similar process here: Not a big fan of draw-bore. Probably a west-coast, minor-humidity-swing thing
  13. Had to laugh at this. Dad and I were JUST having this discussion when I opened this thread.
  14. gee-dub

    Scratch marks

    Disclaimer; not a finishing expert. just a hack with lots of practice . Curly material can be tricky. The hard/soft portions of the material that makes it wonderful also make it challenging. 220 is pretty course for a figured wood in my experience; depending on the result you are after. You can watch Charles Neil (who I think does some really nice stuff) use 180 to 220 and state that they rarely go higher. They also have professional top coat spray products and methods that I do not have. With tiger or curly maple there is little chance of burnishing the surface with too fine a grit, the curls are too soft. Your sanding block becomes pretty important with curly material. A ROS or small sanding block will ride up and down the hard and soft areas. A large block (think about your No.7 hand plane) will ride on the hard portions over the soft portions and bring things into an even plane. I flooded this surface with shellac after sanding; I flooded because I wanted the shellac to be carried deep into the soft material: I followed this with 400 - 800 between coats to get here: 220 grit is made up of about 68 micron particles that leave 30+ micron deep scratches; easily visible with the naked eye. There are heavy film finishing techniques that will provide a good surface appearance over even deeper scratches. There is nothing wrong with this. I like to see 'into' the wood on my pieces and so keep my top coats pretty clear. I have learned that, for me, when I see scratches after starting the finish process . . . I stop. Once the finish is dry or cured, I continue the sanding, scraping or whatever surface prep protocol I am using to eliminate the scratches. This may or may not require stripping depending on the finish product I have started to use. General rule; if it looks good with mineral spirits wiped on under a raking light, it will look good with the finish applied. It is a quick easy "insurance policy" that is well worth taking the time to do.
  15. At $500 - $600 you are well within the range of a decent bagger with a filter and wouldn't have to cobble something together. Just an example: Good info from those who are collecting from a CMS via a hood with a large port/DC. High velocity spoil is a challenge; CMS, routers, circ-saws, etc. Some tools do better with a DC and good air speed/volume whereas smaller tools often do better with a vac. I think you will find that most folks run both. Alas, the CMS is a challenge with a lot of solutions, all pretty involved. You will have to make your choice based on what you can do and how much the CMS plays into your woodworking. Folks who use them swear by them. I only dig mine out of the shed if I am trimming out a bathroom or something similar.
  16. I don't know your location but, here in the SoCal desert basin I generously pad on the mixture, wait 20 to 30 minutes and then wipe it off as if I've changed my mind. I apply the next coat right away. Over the years my method has morphed a bit. I use mineral spirits, BLO and a gloss modified phenolic resin (poly). I use a straight sided jar and a stick of scrap. I mark the stick in the increments I want. I can then pour each ingredient till the level reaches the mark. And I use the stick to stir with. My first coat is something like 2:1:1 to act as an initial sealer. The next few coats are 1:1:1 with the last coat(s) being 1:1:2. That is, heavy on the thinner at first and heavy on the poly at the end. The hand application gives me a satin-like finish from the gloss top coat.
  17. Sorry to sound like a broken record. I do not have wood allergies. I’m just a regular person. I was not diligent enough on dust control early on. I now take medication every day and will for the rest of my life. We can’t all do a perfect job of collecting spoil. I do always recommend that you do the best that you can in the room you have and with the budget you have. I also start all responses to the question of “what tools should I get first?” with number one being dust collection. I am not some kind of dust collection wacko that thinks anybody who doesn’t do a perfect job with their dust collection system is doomed to a horrible death. Let’s just use common sense and do the best we can :-)
  18. If the panel is easily reachable and has a couple of slots open I would go 240v. Of course, then you might miss out on the WOW factor when you upgrade later . Seriously though, sounds like you are zeroing in.
  19. A track so is a great addition to a shop with a good table saw.
  20. And anti-static UHMW material as well
  21. Don't mean to Threadjack. When I align my saws my first step is to make the room for my hand as large as is workable. That is, I have the top as far to the right as I can (on a left tilt saw) and then align. I also find that reaching for the nut with my left hand (on a left tilt saw) is easier than using my right although I am right handed. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
  22. Good observations and advice so far. Obviously if things are square and true, they will line up correctly when assembled. Your pictures do not show this happening so there is something out of square somewhere. Small errors add up when multiple parts are assembled so some parts that looks fine on their own can still deliver a "huh!?!" result when put together. You're getting the drift that compound miter saws do great for framing a house, not so great at building furniture. They are accurate to a point but, a lot of furniture joinery compounds small errors by their very nature. Things that are fine for a kitchen upper cabinet may not fly for a china hutch. Your table looks pretty basic (I do not mean that in a negative way at all) so the joinery is pretty straight forward. When using dimensional lumber, checking for square can be a challenge. The material is often irregular along its length so even though each end may check as square, they are out of plane with each other. When one end is fastened to an adjacent surface it pulls the other end out of alignment due to these irregularities. This 36" long 2x4 looks fine but, it has one half a degree of twist: If I attach some nice square legs to it: One end joins well: While the opposite shows signs of trouble: If I add another piece and then another, the problem compounds. One way to get around this is to cut the piece to fit the irregularity. The difficulty of this will depend on how far out of whack your material is. The real fix is to mill your material square and true but, we don't all have jointers and planers and drum sanders. Being creative to work around this is not a bad thing.
  23. The depth stop mechanism on the Jet is of the type people tend to love-to-hate. Not to put too strong a point on it but, I would pass on a DP that used this method. As Dr. Z mentioned I did do a shop-built add-on for my Delta to get away from the "ring" type of depth stop they supplied on some of their DP's. Other than that I found the Jet you show to feel pretty good and appears well built in our world where makers are mysteriously challenged by a fairly basic machine like the drill press. *** disclaimer *** The following is just a pre-coffee stream of consciousness. I don't mean to champion or offend . . . Looking for a decent drill press at a decent price has almost become a secondary hobby for me. I look at what I think are contenders every time I get near one to judge the QA over time. The 15" Jet (the 17" flexes more than I am comfortable with for the price) is nice enough to make me add-on a depth stop but, seems a bit over priced. For about half that price the Grizzly G7944 is a solid, but very basic 14" machine but, I sold a nice 14" machine because I needed more reach too often. For a bit more the Delta 18-900 gets a lot of praise and would be my choice (despite the trepidation on that brand) unless I was willing to push the $$$ to a Nova. The large PM is still worrisome due to the problems with its predecessor. Most issues were fixed but I find floor models to vary widely indicating possible QA issues. Remember that vertical quill slop directly affects your depth accuracy. As I said, it has almost become a hobby within a hobby to seek out a decent DP for a decent price.
  24. I hope we haven't scared you off with all the data. I too am sometimes overwhelmed when I get recommendations from the cumulative experience of a century of woodworkers on here . Our goal is not to overload but, you do have to read through the responses and kind of put them in order as they apply to where you are in the process. Let me try to sum up in order of importance: 1. Align your saw. uh, er, . . . well, I guess that's it in order of importance. I know this has been discussed but, there is aligning your saw and then there is aligning your saw. For cutting boards, the blade to fence is most critical followed by your sled for crosscuts. Well milled material is already critical. When you are going to stack or laminate parts as with a cutting board, any error, no matter how slight, becomes amplified with each layer. Your first picture probably shows the result of using a non-true edge as a reference edge against the fence. The second picture looks like an un-milled edge against a milled edge so that can be improved. One challenge is that any "fixes" you apply to any sub-optimal edges at this point will alter your dimensions. I wouldn't let this slow you down. Unless you're going for something like this: Your irregularities won't kill the board. Patterns like this . . . . . . tolerate boo-boos pretty well. If your current board isn't perfect, it will be a great learning experience and the next one will be that much easier.
  25. I agree a pic would help. If this is a rip cut, how are you creating the flat edge to run along the fence. If you are not creating a flat reference edge, your trouble starts here. Compound that by all the cuts and parts in an end grain cutting board and you have problems. If this is a different cut at a different step, I guess I need a picture ;-)