gee-dub

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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. Following a good alignment, nothing increases a saw's performance easier than quality cutters. Ply and other veneers benefit from a dedicated blade but, a lot of folks power through with a combo blade. The only saw I ever got that didn't need the blade changed immediately was an old ZipCode saw that came with a nice Leitz. Plenty of sub-$100 blades to choose from. As you approach the $100+ tier you can get a little more choosy. Plenty of us have our favs at that level.
  2. Looks great. Good use of space under the drum sander table.
  3. I have something similar on the Saw Stop. The inserts use a sliding dovetail and single screw for retention so I can make my own out of scrap. It has worked out well. I forget the brand but, it was on clearance at Rockler once upon a time . . .
  4. Another long time user/stacker here. They are my go-to.
  5. She looks great and ready for some goodies.
  6. Call your old boss and ask him to send you a picture to share with us.
  7. Its all worth more than you are paying for it . Files created by newer versions of software that cannot be opened by previous versions is common across applications and platforms, SU is no different. The problems with the lapse of the good free versions and the limits of the web version are unfortunate but, like free email, nothing is guaranteed. Perhaps you could identify the file and ask if anyone on here has a version that will open it. They may then be able to save it as a previous version (with the loss of whatever is "new version" specific) and email it to you. I stopped upgrading at 'Make 2017' but, would be glad to give it a try for you.
  8. I can only speak for myself. The 3hp PCS was the best choice at the $3k tier.
  9. Sorry for the late replay oldman, busy days lately. You've already found some info on routing "downhill" which essentially means "with the grain" as opposed to against it as spectacularly demonstrated in your first picture; been there, done that ;-) Climb cutting can serve a few purposes but, routing with the grain is a near guarantee of success. It takes a bit of time to raise and lower the bit to allow a persistent 'downhill' approach. Even with a lift I tend to do all the cuts with the grain I can using one bearing and then finish up using the other.
  10. Tablesaws, like a lot of tools, come in tiers. When you are looking in a certain tier of machine, personal preferences or specific design elements will direct you to the machine you prefer. Sometimes it is as simple as control wheel placement. I almost passed on the Saw Stop due to how short they are. I liked enough of the other features and quality of the machine that I just built a little platform for it. I do a lot of joinery on the tablesaw so I like it at about 36".
  11. I do enough template routing that a top/bottom bearing bit makes sense for me. This allows you to always route downhill.
  12. Depending on the version you are looking for about 36" to 37" between the blade and the blade-side of the Base Support Panel. The range of fence travel is based on the carriage length. Slide the LS Fence and Carriage all the way into the LS Base. Position this as far to the right of the blade as your available room will allow. the distance between the fence and your blade is your maximum rip capacity. Large rip capacity is not the primary design of this system so do not be put off by a small rip dimension. Joinery and precise, repeatable patterns are its forte.
  13. I too do my own but, Woodsmith has some of the best and most reliable detail in the plans I see in their mags. finewoodworking is probably second with Wood Mag having corrections in the following issue on a regular basis. Not much help when the mag only comes out 6 times a year.
  14. Good reports here and elsewhere from people who have run knives and inserts long enough to demonstrate the financial value of insert heads, including me. I think it was close to two years before the first rotation on my jointer. A bit longer on my planer. Preparation and care during the process will help with consistent results when rotating; torque wrench, compressed air, etc. The realization that a machine does not leave a final surface is a step many of us make at some point in our journey. The discussion of putting a $500 head in a $500 planer is another thread ;-) This decision includes space and dust collection as much as it does dollars. I do not recall ever seeing a thread titled "Woe is Me! Why Did I Ever Switch to an Insert Head!?!" As an aside, my jointer head paid for itself in about 18 months.
  15. Immortan D's got it. I have several single and double pad versions. They also work for alignment on odd assemblies.
  16. What is the grip requirement? Would a thin CA work? I have some that is just like water that I use for hairline cracks.
  17. that makes sense.
  18. So I’ve got a move the cutter head and the motor assembly weight to adjust the cutting depth… I guess I’d want to see how that feels.
  19. It is a frame within a frame. The outer frame has a strip of leopard wood laid in prior to machining. The angle of the other picture made the inner edge of the outer frame look like a strip but, it is actually a Peruvian walnut outer frame with an inlay.
  20. A panel saw and a miter saw are fine tools for the tasks they are designed for. Trimming out a kitchen and building a furniture-quality sideboard are different tasks. A lot of folks turn to miter sleds on their tablesaws for this task. There are even versions where the angle doesn't need to be perfect as long as the two mating faces are cut on opposite sides of the jig. What works for you is what works. I just run a basic Incra V-27 miter gauge on the tablesaw. This is not necessarily super helpful. Someone showing me the air-tight dovetails they can cut by hand does not make my fussy attempts at them any better . I needed to work at it till I found the method that worked best for me (and I'm still not very good at them). If you Google 'miter sled for table saw' you will get a selection of methods to try. One of them will become your favored way of doing this.
  21. I pulled this from an ".au" site but the grades line up with ours here in the US. Not that it matters since the cost is prohibitive, here's the BB ply grading system: The CD material will probably have internal voids which make it ill suited for jigs. I would lean toward the MDF unless you needed certain structural strength that some larger assemblies require. Having said that, we work with what we can get. My home state of California has degraded in some areas so that I have to pick up certain items when I am out of state. Fortunately it is a long narrow state and Nevada and Arizona are only a few hours away. I'll stop rambling; I would have some MDF on hand in your 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" equivalents. I would have some plywood around too as it can be used with the MDF if that sort of flex or sag resistance is needed. Some BC would probably do you well and you wouldn't have to buy in whole sheets. Most lumber yards around here carry what is called 'shop grade' plywood which is not an actual grade at all. This can be some A-C or B-C that didn't quite make the grade (no pun intended) and has some minor defects. Different yards will have different product that they sell for this purpose. Some will also sell edge-damaged sheet goods at a discount. A lot of folks overlook this thinking they need a perfect sheet of material. The fact is the first thing you are going to do when you use it is cut a piece out of it so you can judge the price by what your use-case is and save some money there. I just picked up a half dozen sheets of some tempered hardboard at half price due to damaged edges where it had been strapped too tight during transport. It can take some time to find your available sources for materials and consumables. Carry on and good luck.
  22. No, that is pretty much just general use building grade ply. You can sometimes find a product referred to as "Finnish" or "Russian" ply that is pretty much like Baltic Birch.
  23. What a goof I am sometimes . . . left is BB.
  24. Material selection is one of my favorite parts of a project.