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Everything posted by gee-dub

  1. No rule of thumb on this one. Some folks go with a wall full of horizontal cleats every 6-8 inches. This lets you put small fixtures in place with a high degree of flexibility. I make larger fixtures that have small items in them. These pics are from the temp shop currently in use. The cleats were one of the first things to go up. I find 3 or 4 long cleats at heights that hang at the "right" height work best for me. The "right" height for me is not so high I can't reach my long clamps and not so low that the lower fixture hits the ground. In between things should hang from one cleat and rest against the next one or two down. I don't bother with cutouts for the cabinets to set flush. This would kill my flexibility with this system. I need to be able hang most things most places as I change things . . . like my mind Here's one iteration of the old shop: In the end it seems you could decide on Lots-o-Cleats: Or a few cleats and then design your fixtures from there.
  2. Correct. ASTM-2729 and the like. They are seldom in stores but places like Lowe's carry Charlotte Pipe and NDS products. You need to order them but, a couple of fittings quickly reaches the price that qualifies for free shipping. These were about $24 versus the $40 for schd-40 or $100+clamps for steel. I don't buy these items often but, find I source them differently nearly every time. At one point Ace Hardware Online had a great price on 6" ASTM-2729 pipe so when I bought I bought extra. This time around Lowe's had the best 'price to my door' so I ordered a few wyes, elbows and caps from them. It really pays to shop around on these things. The price swing can be significant and apparently varies with vendor and the point in time that you order.
  3. The dust collection fairy dropped off a few parts I still needed to make my current inventory flesh out to the new design.
  4. My Veritas has been in use for about 4 years. Although there is a cover on this design it is hardly air tight. When I opened it to adjust chain tension after the first several months of use there was saw dust present. None of this effected the action and I would have never known had I not wanted to tighten up the chain a bit. It seems the same "non-air-tight" design that let's the spoil in, lets it out as you use the vise.
  5. Dug out one of my DC parts stashes. This stuff was wrapped in a tarp next to an outbuilding for the last couple of years. I'll raid the other stash locations, take inventory and clean things up a bit.
  6. gee-dub


    Maybe if all us left-coasters washed our car on the same day? I live where the average annual rainfall is under 12" and all of that shows up in 30 to 35 days out of the year. To say folks around here have low water yards and take water conservation to heart is an understatement ;-)
  7. Thanks for the tag-a-long. I enjoy a good build journal.
  8. If you are trying to do thickness planer operations a lunchbox planer will serve you better. If you are trying to do edge jointing operations you hand held planer may work but, never as easily as a jointer. It's one of those right tool for the job things.
  9. Yes, I did sub out the drywall. That way I could spend time building the dust collector shed while the drywall was being done. There are some things I enjoy doing and there are some things I do not. I beat him… LOL.
  10. Closer and closer . . .
  11. The level orientation of these types of planers is controlled by the operator much as a hand plane is. Does it have any sort of perpendicular reference fence attachment?
  12. The location is Israel. I wonder if the blade is made for saws sold in that part of the world or vice versa? I tend to be pretty western-world-centric in my thinking sometimes. Forum members in Spain or Australia find slightly different tools on the shelves.
  13. Almost done with the drywall. A little more touch up and some minor sanding and I should be ready for paint.
  14. This is a good example of forum threads retaining their value over time. I think I can see the cross grain pattern from planing (yours or the skip planing during the earlier processing) in your first pic. A raking light would show this more clearly and it could be my old eyes ;-) The second pic certainly looks better. Jumping from 120 to 220 requires a lot of 220 sanding. A step through 150, 180 or whatever will smooth out your results and lower your efforts. Come on back and show us the finish on the material. Sounds like it should be very nice looking.
  15. A very nice start to your new furnishings. The MCM revival is certainly getting a warm reception. This is the general style of the furniture I knew as a child; Paul McCobb mostly.
  16. I have. It worked well for about 2 years. It did fuse to itself and that part of the tape retained its integrity. The entire loop came loose as a unit though. I am not sure how long the tape is supposed to last but I have tried 2 different kinds and both performed the same. Tape was used in a static install, no-movement, southern California garage environment. Worked well but overall stability fails after a few years. A quality vinyl tape made for ducting may be a better product. That is what I will be using this go-round. Unfortunately I won't be able to report on performance for a few years ;-)
  17. I'm going to watch it for awhile once I get underway. There will be a backboard, disconnect box, j-box, and flex conduit all running along one wall to carry wiring for the cyclone's motor and the feeds to / from the remote mag- switch in the main shop. There would be ample presence of a ground should that prove necessary. I will be taping the ducting and trying to seal the DC pathways up tight. Past experience has taught me that even though you make many walkabouts with a smoking incense stick looking for leaks. The telltale presence of superfine dust patterns after a month or so of use is the best leak locator around When it comes to wall buildup a good brush nozzle on the end of a shop vac wand seems to work best for me.
  18. It is slick like a plastic film. About as thick as melamine but smooth and glossy. I had to smile at your post since I sent pics to a friend telling him that the smooth surface should "stay clean in the dust collector shed" . . . this was followed by about 30 ha-ha-ha's in the text. It does wipe clean easily but seems to hold a static charge when free handling. The static didn't seem to be a bother once the board was mounted. The instructions state that seams and errant staple shots can be hidden with a wipe of white caulk. I will report back on the caulk and the static after it has had some time to show its true behavior.
  19. Some of the progress on the DC shed. Insulation (for sound deadening) is in and most of the wall board is up. I was just going to use 1/8" hardboard like I did for a couple other small buildings in the area. I then started picturing myself looking for something I dropped or wanting to do maintenance in the shed and thought white walls would be smart. I found a white glossy finished 1/8" hardboard product at Lowe's. I did some on the fly figuring (in 100 degree heat) and figured a few extra bucks was worth not having to paint them. I am not going for a magazine layout in this shed, I just want some thing to protect the insulation while I am slaming around in there on disco night . Seriously though, I poked a couple tears in the insulation already while moving around in the close quarters and I am pretty careful. A strip of 1/4 round and some dabs of white caulk and I'll be happy. You may notice the 8' panels in the 9' to 10' structure. The upper area is just going to be exposed building wrap. Even I would have to try to poke holes in things up there.
  20. How did I miss this? Nicely done sir!
  21. I have really been enjoying this build. Sorry the customer is being finicky but, that's what a lot of customers do. The design is an eye catcher and I look forward to the finished piece.
  22. I have visions of this board storming the coast of Japan and trampling Tokyo Godzilla style .