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About tomwassmer

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Arvada, Colorado
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boats, basic furniture and smaller items (boxes, etc.)
  1. Thanks again guys. I definitely would like to stick to bits with bearings so I don’t have to deal with making patterns that allow for a collar. The large diameter of the 9112 won’t be an issue for this project. The compression bits look really awesome but as you’ve warned, are a bit pricey. I’ve decided what I’ll do is see what kind of results I get with a straight-knifed flush trim bit that I already have in my collection. If the results aren’t acceptable, I’ll spring for the compression bit.
  2. Thanks guys. I appreciate the input! I'll check into Whiteside bits.
  3. Hi everybody! I'm wanting to make some hardboard templates to cut out multiple large parts using meranti marine plywood (ranging from 1/4" to 3/4"). Once my templates are complete, do you have any recommendations on router bits to trim my plywood parts to the final shape? I'm assuming a spiral bit? Should the bearing be on the top or bottle of the bit? Thanks!
  4. Good to hear Particle Board. Thanks for the info!
  5. Thanks everyone for the info as well. I actually got a nice gift certificate for Grizzly for Father's Day and I have enough for the 17" Griz bandsaw (happy day!). I was wondering if anyone has this one or one like it with the Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection that they say it has on the Grizzly website? Are these guides good or should I look for something different?
  6. Thanks for starting this one Scott. I was about to ask the same exact question! I am wondering one thing that I don't think I saw mentioned in all the replies. I too am contemplating the Griz 14" or 17" models. It sounds like you can't go wrong with the bigger one for most bandsaw operations, but when it comes to smaller operations, would the bigger one be able to be fitted with a smaller blade and perform as well as the 14"? Another thing I was wondering about the G0513 17" model is how good the blades guide are. This is how the website describes them; "Blade guides: Euro-style rolle
  7. Thank you for everyone's input. I'll start somewhere between 25 and 30 and experiment from there!
  8. I was given a no 3 that was my grandfather's. It has been poorly sharpened for years and I'd like to put a good edge on it. I'm not sure what bevel angle to put on it. I got the MK II and love the ease of use. That's what I will use to sharpen this. I assume I will get responses asking what I will use this for. To be honest, I am BRAND new to planes and this is one of two that was given to me by my Dad and I see myself using this one more often so I'll concentrate on this plane first. I am a little unclear what a 3 is even for. I've used it once so far to shave a little off a replaceme
  9. Thanks John. I appreciate your input and I'll check out the video.
  10. Ok. I thought we exhausted all possibilities to fix my problem. I was just browsing some threads and I had a thought that has led me to what is probably a REALLY stupid question. Here goes. Does jointing boards that are longer than the infeed table cause issues?
  11. Thanks to all who contributed to this one. I finally took it apart last night and was looking for a big problem like a cracked cylinder or something along those lines, something that I can point to and say, "AH HA, THAT'S IT!" I did find the problem, and at first it wasn't too obvious till I spotted it. There's a little reed that opens when the piston is on it's way up to push air into the tank and closes on the way back down as the cylinder pulls air in though the filter. That reed is missing a little piece in the center, therefore allowing the cylinder to pull back in SOME of the air it
  12. This is turning into a head-scratcher. Of course I'm not at home right now so I can't sit down and look at my unloader valve. I thought my thinking was straight as to the function of that valve, which was why I was not even considering it as a possible cause of the problem. Now I'm guessing I was wrong. I do have another compressor that works, so maybe I'll try to rig the components of that one to see if I can get the HF one working. I just can't see spending much on a low quality compressor without being sure of the problem. Also, it's just a one cylinder compressor.
  13. Thanks for the responses. It's funny you mentioned that unloader valve. That valve was the reason it was given to me in the first place. It was pumping the tank up and then letting all the air out when the compressor shut off. I got that all squared away. The current problem is not happening when the compressor kicks off. It never even gets up to the pressure that trips the pressure switch to shut the compressor off. The comp. would run all day (until it blows up) if I let it, trying to reach that target pressure but it would never get over 50 psi. Beech, I tried spraying all the di
  14. I just checked a friend's compressor and see that his filler cap has the same hole and air gets blown out of that one as well so it must have nothing to do with that. Back to square one.
  15. You say, of course it's problematic, you got it from HF! Well, I would typically say the same, however this compressor was given to me and has been working great for years. It's their 10 gallon model. I was filling the tank up today and heard the sound of it change and it now it will not fill the tank more than 50 psi. I did not change any settings on it before this happened. I'm not sure how many of you are familiar with their pumps themselves, but the oil filler cap has a little hole in it (it's maybe a 16th inch diameter). I'm not sure what it's for but I did notice that there is quit