tomwassmer

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tomwassmer

  1. Thanks again guys. I definitely would like to stick to bits with bearings so I don’t have to deal with making patterns that allow for a collar. The large diameter of the 9112 won’t be an issue for this project. The compression bits look really awesome but as you’ve warned, are a bit pricey. I’ve decided what I’ll do is see what kind of results I get with a straight-knifed flush trim bit that I already have in my collection. If the results aren’t acceptable, I’ll spring for the compression bit.
  2. Thanks guys. I appreciate the input! I'll check into Whiteside bits.
  3. Hi everybody! I'm wanting to make some hardboard templates to cut out multiple large parts using meranti marine plywood (ranging from 1/4" to 3/4"). Once my templates are complete, do you have any recommendations on router bits to trim my plywood parts to the final shape? I'm assuming a spiral bit? Should the bearing be on the top or bottle of the bit? Thanks!
  4. Good to hear Particle Board. Thanks for the info!
  5. Thanks everyone for the info as well. I actually got a nice gift certificate for Grizzly for Father's Day and I have enough for the 17" Griz bandsaw (happy day!). I was wondering if anyone has this one or one like it with the Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection that they say it has on the Grizzly website? Are these guides good or should I look for something different?
  6. Thanks for starting this one Scott. I was about to ask the same exact question! I am wondering one thing that I don't think I saw mentioned in all the replies. I too am contemplating the Griz 14" or 17" models. It sounds like you can't go wrong with the bigger one for most bandsaw operations, but when it comes to smaller operations, would the bigger one be able to be fitted with a smaller blade and perform as well as the 14"? Another thing I was wondering about the G0513 17" model is how good the blades guide are. This is how the website describes them; "Blade guides: Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection." Are those on par with the bearing-type guides or should I only settle for a saw with the traditional bearing-type guides?
  7. Thank you for everyone's input. I'll start somewhere between 25 and 30 and experiment from there!
  8. I was given a no 3 that was my grandfather's. It has been poorly sharpened for years and I'd like to put a good edge on it. I'm not sure what bevel angle to put on it. I got the MK II and love the ease of use. That's what I will use to sharpen this. I assume I will get responses asking what I will use this for. To be honest, I am BRAND new to planes and this is one of two that was given to me by my Dad and I see myself using this one more often so I'll concentrate on this plane first. I am a little unclear what a 3 is even for. I've used it once so far to shave a little off a replacement fence picket to fit it into the existiing void...hardly fine woodworking but it was satisfying to make some shavings! So all that said, my question remains, what's a good bevel angle to start with on this plane?
  9. Thanks John. I appreciate your input and I'll check out the video.
  10. Ok. I thought we exhausted all possibilities to fix my problem. I was just browsing some threads and I had a thought that has led me to what is probably a REALLY stupid question. Here goes. Does jointing boards that are longer than the infeed table cause issues?
  11. Thanks to all who contributed to this one. I finally took it apart last night and was looking for a big problem like a cracked cylinder or something along those lines, something that I can point to and say, "AH HA, THAT'S IT!" I did find the problem, and at first it wasn't too obvious till I spotted it. There's a little reed that opens when the piston is on it's way up to push air into the tank and closes on the way back down as the cylinder pulls air in though the filter. That reed is missing a little piece in the center, therefore allowing the cylinder to pull back in SOME of the air it just expelled into the tank. That's why it can only get to a certain PSI and no higher. Problem solved..now to find a replacement reed!
  12. This is turning into a head-scratcher. Of course I'm not at home right now so I can't sit down and look at my unloader valve. I thought my thinking was straight as to the function of that valve, which was why I was not even considering it as a possible cause of the problem. Now I'm guessing I was wrong. I do have another compressor that works, so maybe I'll try to rig the components of that one to see if I can get the HF one working. I just can't see spending much on a low quality compressor without being sure of the problem. Also, it's just a one cylinder compressor.
  13. Thanks for the responses. It's funny you mentioned that unloader valve. That valve was the reason it was given to me in the first place. It was pumping the tank up and then letting all the air out when the compressor shut off. I got that all squared away. The current problem is not happening when the compressor kicks off. It never even gets up to the pressure that trips the pressure switch to shut the compressor off. The comp. would run all day (until it blows up) if I let it, trying to reach that target pressure but it would never get over 50 psi. Beech, I tried spraying all the different parts and connections with soapy water and found a couple minor leaks which I suspect have been there for quite some time. I think I'm trying to find a bigger leak. Actually, I just had a thought. Going back to the change in sound I heard, maybe the piston in the pump blew some sort of ring (like in an engine) and there really is no air leak in any of the other components. Maybe all the pump is capapble of now is around 50 psi. Does that sounds like a feasible explaination?
  14. I just checked a friend's compressor and see that his filler cap has the same hole and air gets blown out of that one as well so it must have nothing to do with that. Back to square one.
  15. You say, of course it's problematic, you got it from HF! Well, I would typically say the same, however this compressor was given to me and has been working great for years. It's their 10 gallon model. I was filling the tank up today and heard the sound of it change and it now it will not fill the tank more than 50 psi. I did not change any settings on it before this happened. I'm not sure how many of you are familiar with their pumps themselves, but the oil filler cap has a little hole in it (it's maybe a 16th inch diameter). I'm not sure what it's for but I did notice that there is quite a bit of air escaping through that hole when the pump is running to try and fill the tank. If I put my finger on it and it seems as though the tank will fill over 50psi with it blocked. I took the cap apart to see if there is any clue as to what the purpose of the hole is, but I can't figure out what it's for. Any ideas (other than go buy a new compressor!)?
  16. I know it's been a while, but I'm bringing this thread alive again! I was just using the Rigid jointer earlier today and I'm beginning to think my problem is operator error. I'm wondering if I'm applying pressure in the wrong place(s). I've heard to put downward pressure on the workpiece when it gets to the outfeed table. When I ONLY apply pressure there, I get the tapering like I mentioned earlier in the thread. When I apply some pressure to the piece on the infeed table as well as the outfeed, there is no tapering but the board does not get straight. If I understand the way a jointer works, it makes sense to me that it wouldn't get straight, especially with a softwood that will bend, like pine (that is what I'm using) as I'm pushing it through. When I watch Marc use his jointer, it looks like at least a little pressure is applied on the infeed. I hope all that makes sense. I should also add that I don't have much trouble with edge jointing. The pieces I'm working on are a little over 4' long and I'm face jointing them. Please set me straight (ha ha)!
  17. I just got their 1023RLWX table saw. The FedEx guy and I muscled it up the driveway into my garage...BIG help! I also used mineral spirits to get the rust preventative junk off and I was ready with the paste wax as soon as I got the top cleaned off. Congrats!
  18. Tim, I didn't get any discounts. Did I miss something? I actually paid more than I had hoped because the prices jumped to the 2012 prices before I bought it. I also had planned on getting the WW 48T blade through Griz because it was on sale (I think it was around $120). By the time I placed my order, it wasn't on sale anymore. I asked if they could sell it to me for the sale price and they wouldn't do it. The regular price on the blade was more than I could get it elsewhere so I didn't get it. As for the saw, I had been looking at the 1023 RLWX for a couple years and I never saw it on sale. It must be a popular saw that they feel doesn't need to be on sale to sell many of them?? Who knows!
  19. Well, I got the #10 wire and the plug and hooked it all up today. It runs great! hhh, good point about the length of the wire. That thought crossed my mind but I decided to stick with the #10. I got 25' of wire. It seems to work fine...hopefully I don't see an issue if I really load the saw up with heavy material but we'll see!
  20. Thanks again guys. I should be good with 10-2. The manual says the saw requires a 30 amp circuit. James, I'm good on the rip and dado blades and I have my heart set on the WW. Thanks anyway!
  21. PM...NICE!!! Congrats to you too BT! I can't believe I actually have a saw like this in my shop! As you can see in my above post, I already have a 50A circuit so luckily I'm not really worried about having enough power (for once!). It sounds like a plug-in setup is working just fine for you. That's what I was wondering about. Sounds like I'm headed to Home Depot tomorrow to buy some copper and a plug. Thanks!
  22. I have a 50 amp circuit already for a welder I rarely ever use. That is the receptacle I'd like to use. The saw would be plugged in 99 percent of the time. I just don't want to run a whole separate circuit for the saw just because they say it needs to be hard-wired. Being that I have the amperage already available, does anybody know of any reason I can't use a plug instead of having to hard-wire?
  23. Thanks again for all the responses. I think I'll go for the 48t WW. The saw came with a 40t blade, which I'm sure is not very good but I can use for the cuts that don't have to be perfect. I recieved the saw the other day and am in the process of setting it up and I now have a question on how to wire it. The manual says the 5hp model (which is the one I got) has to be hard-wired. I was planning on getting the wire and using a plug because right now I only have one 220 receptacle which I need for other tools as well as the saw. Does anyone know why I'm not supposed to use a plug? The only thing I can think of is that the amount of current this saw will draw cannot be handled by any plug??
  24. Dynablue, I'll have to give them a call. I hope I don't get the response, "I don't know, it says 48 tooth." Maybe it is an incorrect listing. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-48T-5-8-Hole-125-Kerf-Woodworker-II-Blade/T23527 hhh, many good points. I am a weekend (and occasional weekday) warrior so I can't imagine having to get through much 12/4 stock. I do have a selection of the "honey do" blades from my 10" rad arm saw that I can throw on it if I need to. I'd use those to get the stock down to a managable size before switching to the good blade. I didn't think this would be a simple decision!