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About BarbaraTX

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  1. It's a gray stain. Yes, I just don't the energy to remove it, at least not any time soon. I guess I could sand some of it off to give it a shabby chic look, but I've never really been into that style. It looks better in person....kind of a cool contrast. If I only use satin, will there be a problem? Would this be standard drugstore acetone? So it would work better than mineral spirits at removing the grayish tint?
  2. Great. Thanks Eric and Chestnut. There's so much to learn for this one project! Are all shellac products pretty much the same or is there a particular kind or brand to look for?
  3. I sanded off almost all the gray stain and I'm loving this wood! Although the gray stain seems to be gone, there are some areas that look a little dull with a very slight grayish tint. Would it be wise to use mineral spirits to clean the dust and hopefully remove those grayish areas? I'm having trouble finding a definitive answer to the type of finish that would be best for a dining table made of this wood where high level of protection is needed. I've read that poly may not fully dry due to the oil in the wood and two or three coats of varnish should be applied before the final coat.
  4. I had a cold drink on a place mat. That's the only thing it could be. I don't use a mouse with my computer. The problem existed before I applied the wax. I showed the photo to someone at Home Depot who refinishes furniture. He had never seen anything like those stains. I've decided to start with mineral spirits to remove the wax. Who knows? It may remove the stains. If not, I may go ahead and remove the finish to the bare wood--either by sanding alone or with a stripper. Not looking forward to that.
  5. Actually, the grain under the stain, which I couldn't capture in the photo, looks exactly like the East Indian rosewood in the wood database. Mike, the wood picked up those stains both before and after the waxing.
  6. Mike, you're right. It's sheesham and was marketed that way. It was already stained. I just applied a finishing wax to try to protect it. Can I do the refinishing myself? I've never done it. What do I need to know when working with sheesham?
  7. It's not painted. It's got a gray stain on it. If I have to refinish it, I would rather have the original natural color on the top and keep the gray under it. I'm thinking maybe it was never sealed?
  8. I have a gray-stained Indian rosewood table that is staining mysteriously. I will find dark, oily looking spots that I can't remove. This table is used for occasional drinks, but the glass never comes into direct contact with the wood. One time, I got a crayon mark on it that won't come out. These stains are probably some kind of oil. I have two coats of Minwax on the table, but it's not preventing this problem. Is this a challenge with oily woods? Should I refinish it? Thanks!
  9. The table is surely finished (I can't imagine being sold an unfinished dining table) so there is nothing I can do to enhance the wood grain or warm it up, except possibly the wood paste wax. One more thought.....that walnut I foolishly rubbed on the scratches certainly penetrated whatever finish is on the table. It stained it.
  10. Thanks for the info! This may not mean much, but it was never represented as rosewood, but sheesham wood. I'm the one calling it rosewood since that's what I learned from my research. I had never heard of it. I just liked the look and got a great deal on it. I don't think it has a veneer, but I don't want to strip it down, anyway. I just want to "warm up" the wood. Today, I ran into a hobbyist who works at Home Depot. He was singing the praises of Watco's natural oil finish. I see that Watco has Teak Oil specifically for dense woods and mentions rosewood on the label. It's suppos
  11. Eric, actually the photos really are bad. I almost didn't upload them. It looks more like this: From what I've been reading about Indian Rosewood, although it's very attractive and durable, it's not an expensive wood. More designers are recommending it for the home because it is affordable. That said, I'm not sure why anyone would feel the need to fake it? Or maybe there are different grades of it. Your bowl is very pretty. Mike, thanks for helping me look for a paste. I just read that one should stay away from silicones
  12. Brendon, the label identified it as Sheesham wood and I looked up that term which pointed me to Indian Rosewood. Just now, I found the table here: It's exactly the same table, even down to the embellishment just under the top, except my table is gray and this one is brown..
  13. Here is another photo. The lighting causes it to look a little red in the middle.
  14. Mike, how can I tell if it already has a finish? I thought it had a gray stain on it, but when I looked online at photos and descriptions of Rosewood, this bluish gray is a feature of the wood. I am attaching a photo. The dark area on the lower right is a shadow. In person, the gray is more prominent. Brendon, I don't know what ARS oil is. Is it safe for rosewood? I thought I read that some oils should not be used, either because the wood is very oily or maybe because it is so porous....I don't remember which was true.