BKeys

Members
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About BKeys

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Sponge just soaking it all in. Rookie that doesn't know enough to be able to answer that!!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Gottchya. That was probably the part I missed. Watching videos at 2am will do that to you....thanks!
  2. Silly question. Would you add a finish coat before carving or wait until everything is done. Seems silly but it seems to me on one of the many videos I watched...they did a coat first. Asking because I'm under the gun for my wife's birthday present and haven't decided for sure if I'm doing the carving...would be nice to have it done if I decide not to (practice carving comes out bad)
  3. I ended up getting the 1k, 5k and 8k Shapton stones and a lapping stone to flatten them. My chisels are definitely sharper and it makes a huge difference. However, I can see where sharpening can be a bit of an art and I need a bit of practice yet.
  4. Looking at your pictures I can identify the mk2 and am guessing the gray ones are the eclipse. They look exactly like the one I have. Mine is not an eclipse and cost maybe $15. It rides on a single roller and even though I was doing my utmost to apply even pressure the visible grinding on the bevel seemed to wear more on one side than the other so I figure I may need a guide that is more fool proof. For $15 I am guessing I didn't get the pinnacle of quality and some of the others are probably easier to use. Also the smaller chisels didn't want to set flat in the grooves of the guide. All
  5. I actually have a brand new set of Irwin chisels. They need the backs flattened...anyhow the course stone aside you recommend 1k and 4K over 1500 and 5. I've been trying to figure out what was necessary and what was fluff when it comes to things like the 8k and above....was just trying to hedge my bet with the 5k and it seemed that I didn't want such a big gap between 1 and 5. So I thought 1500 Ok. I got a 1000 and 5000 grit Shapton stone. I flattened the backs of my chisels and honed to the 5000 grit. They came out pretty good but I think I need to work on my technique some. I have a $15
  6. I've never heard about using a piece of pine.....any particular species or just any flat piece of pine....I have a ton of that laying around. I have thought about just using sand paper and I do have a guide already...not a nice veritas though.
  7. I actually have a brand new set of Irwin chisels. They need the backs flattened...anyhow the course stone aside you recommend 1k and 4K over 1500 and 5. I've been trying to figure out what was necessary and what was fluff when it comes to things like the 8k and above....was just trying to hedge my bet with the 5k and it seemed that I didn't want such a big gap between 1 and 5. So I thought 1500
  8. No doubt...the other possibility is that the rest of my play money was going to go for a new blade for my new miter saw. I could put my dreams of a Forrest on hold and get a Freud. Between that savings and me ponying up just a bit more I could get a 320, 1500 and 5000. That should do me. The Frued blades I have for my other saws are very good....I just wanted to dip my toes in the big boy pond and see what the hype is about! But the Freud would certainly be good enough for quite a while for me.
  9. Thanks for the input as always...I have went quite a while with limited use of my chisels and planes because they aren't real sharp. I have been wrestling with wanting to get them more usable quickly vs getting a good set which will take more time...I think you kinda just pushed me toward the longer path but the better in the long run. I've went this long, I can wait a bit longer....it won't be too long. Should I just start at the beginning with a course stone or is there some validity in my idea of getting a medium grit and it just taking me longer to get my blades to at least usable? If
  10. I'm new to sharpening and currently have a cheap, and by cheap I mean .99 water stone that is just labeled course and fine. So essentially, I have no sharpening stones. I'm going to be making a run into Detroit where there is a wood craft store and want to remedy that problem. I have been reading about the different methods and different brands and really haven't come to any conclusions yet. My biggest problem is that I only have about $150 I can put toward stones so i was wondering what people's thoughts are on which way to go. I've wavered between Norton combo stones over to DMT diamond
  11. BKeys

    New tool!!!!

    Well, bit the bullet and am getting rid of the radial arm saw. No longer need it with the new miter saw and it frees up enough room to turn the bench with the RAS into a dedicated miter station and it frees up enough space for a floor model drill press and a band saw. (Currently have a bench top band saw which is next to useless). Just kinda tough to part with, was my Dad's.
  12. BKeys

    New tool!!!!

    Lol. MI to WA is a long drive for a mortiser. Domino is awesome but boy what a festool price tag. My wife always gripes that I always need the best and she was just complaining about the $650 tag on the miter saw. I told her that contrary to her opinion on that, I don't own a single tool that I would classify as the best. I like to strike a nice balance with quality and price. Sadly, I have yet to run across anything Festool that I could justify. Not saying they aren't the best. Would have loved a kapex but at half the cost I got a good reliable saw that makes accurate cuts. If I ever p
  13. BKeys

    New tool!!!!

    Considering I just spent all my pennies on the miter saw I will have a bit of time to look at this....I can always reserve the bench space where the current DP is for a mortiser. I'll just have to see where I can fit a floor model DP. I currently have my jointer on rollers and it gets moved into another bay when not in use so it's not like I haven't used that strategy! I am just now at the stage where every tool I upgrade, I want it to be the last upgrade.
  14. I echo these guys. I have a delta contractors saw that does a great job and will be last in line for an upgrade in my current tools. That said it is in the line for upgrade. If you go the contractor saw rout you can get a great saw that I'd bet you will be happy with. I'd also bet that after a while, you would likely be like me thinking how nice it would be to have that 3hp motor and grumbling about having to measure out and secure straight edges to make a 31" inch cut with a circ saw because your fence is only 30". If money isn't the sticking point...the old saying is measure twice cut onc
  15. BKeys

    New tool!!!!

    Question on that....I also want a floor model just don't see how to arrange my shop to accommodate it...Question is..what exactly would a floor model offer me that the bench top models don't. I do have a spot for my bench top that offers pretty good clearance around it to move materials...outside of being able to drill holes in the end of a 4 ft board what else am I not thinking of?