Dolmetscher007

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About Dolmetscher007

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Craftsman, Shaker, Mid-Century Modern, Medieval, and Japanese.

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  1. Yeah... I did think about just laminating multiple boards together myself. I am making a deck to go outside my house, so it won't be some massive load-bearing structure. (I don't have that many friends LOL!!!) This is the video that inspired my deck idea:
  2. I want these beams for outdoor use, btw. I am building a deck, and want to... actually, to describe it would take a long time, and it doesn't matter. I will call my local lumber yard. Probably should have done that to begin with. ha ha! Thanks guys. You are all the best. I love this forum!
  3. Like a lot of you guys I'm sure, I watch a pretty good bit of YouTube every day. I see on a regular basis where some woodworker is making some cabin, workbench, Japanese gate, or some other amazing project out of lumber that appears to be 8x8 or larger. Now, I know that there is a huge trend to make everything possible out of some old reclaimed barn wood from the 1800's, but I was curious... would a descent local lumber yard carry new lumber in these massive dimensions, and if so, would it just be sopping wet garbage that will end up twisting into a pretzel by the time it actually dries out, 6 years from when you get it home?
  4. I'm all about recycled composites. Do you know where I can find fake timber for outside stuff?
  5. What do you mean? Are pressure treated boards only good for wood that touches the ground? I always thought that one would use pressure treated wood for all outdoor stuff. Decks... Picnic Tables... etc...
  6. I am planning to build a sort of Japanese inspired wooden gate frame that will sit in basically direct sunlight, outdoors, in the rain... at all times. I am also going to be building craftsman style shutters for the front of my house, that will also be in the elements at all times. I have always assumed that "pressure-treated" lumber from the home store would be the wood I'd use, and I'd get around to finding out what is the best type of paint for outdoor wood projects. But now that I am getting closer to pulling the trigger, I wanted to ask you guys what you think. I definitely do not have the budget for any wood that is more expensive than pressure-treated lumber. In other words, I can't afford to build it out of Ipe from Brazil, or whatever. I have, however, never painted pressure treated wood... so I do not even know if that is a potential issue. What is the absolute most iron-clad wood and a wood-treatment option for outdoor projects that I hope to end up white? I am absolutely open to using something like Thompson's Water Seel, or a Spar Urethane... and then painting over all that with another white paint. I am also open to scraping and repainting in a few years. What I am NOT looking for, is a solution that will warp to hell in the sun, and/or soak in water like a sponge and rot where it touches the ground.
  7. Yeah... I hear ya about the, "saw to the line and clean it up with a plane." And if this were a but joint, dovetail, mortise and tenon, or even a miter joint for furniture, I'd be fine with that. But when you are dealing with a very expensive hand-selected piece of perfectly quarter sawn and milled hard maple that has been seasoned and dried slowly to the perfect moisture content for stringed instruments... AND... you have already ruined 4-5 "test pieces" of poplar... I just don't see it working out without some kind of jig. The main problem is the length of the cut, the width of the board, and the thickness of the board. It sounds easy, in your head, to just use a combination square to strike your lines, prop the board up, clamp it to a bench or in a bench vice, and saw to the line. (maybe even use a sharp chisel or exacto knife to start yourself a little knife wall to get started.) But... the board is 4 inches wide and 1" thick. 13 degrees is a very shallow angle. The saw has to go through so much wood at that angle, that it just simply drifts every time. And it drifts BIG time! I've ended up 1/4" off the line by the time the saw exits the other side of the board. Again, I know it probably sounds like I'm being a baby and just don't want to put in the work to get good. But honestly, this whole post is me trying to balance great results with skill, and expense. I don't own a band saw, which sucks. I also don't own a plane. The only plane that I own is a low-angle Jack Plane from Veritas. It's a beautiful plane, but it is huge! I've tried using it on my test necks, and I just end up making things worse with it. I mean... I guess it is possible that I just suck at hand tools, and that any woodworker worth a squirt of piss could snatch my low-angled Jack outta my hands and true up my scarf joint in just a few seconds. I guess I could just keep practicing. Do you guys think this low-angled jack plane SHOULD be able to do this?
  8. Boy... I really blew it w/ my OP. Its a 13 degree cross cut through a 1” board. I do not have a band saw. i think my magnetic jig needs a major design change.
  9. I am building electric guitars, and need to cut a 13 degree scarf joint, reliably, and repeatably. I do not have a band saw, and I will not be able to afford one for quite some time. I have a wonderful 3HP 22V cabinet table saw. But it's blade is not tall enough to make the cut. And you'd have to make the cut in one pass. There is no way to flip the board etc. So... I set out to create my own... 13 degree angle sawing guide. I got the idea from the David Barron dovetail magnetic hand saw guides. They have a strong magnet that the saw rides along as you cut the dovetail. Makes it kind of idiot proof apparently. So, I went and bought some aluminum angle. I carefully measured it. I cut pieces at 13 degrees, and I even used aluminum brazing rods to braze it all together, before I bolted it down to a double layer of 3/4" MDF. I even added some hold-downs, and drilled for these screws that come in from either side of the wood, so that once it is in the jig, I can fine tune it square with the aluminum "rails" that are at 13 degrees. I used a dead flat metal file to really make sure that the two aluminum rails are on the same plane with one another, dead flat, and dead square to the board. I plan to find and order some neodymium magnetic bars to epoxy to the rails. And the grand idea is that I will be able to just put the maple board between the rails, clamp it square with the side-screws, and the clamp the whole thing down with the hold-downs. Then I can slap a hand saw to the magnets, and just carefully saw the perfect 13 degree angle through the board. In theory... it's aweseome! But here's what is really happening. I have several hand saws. One is one of those double-sided Japanese Gyokucho 9-1/2" ryoba pull razor saws. Then I also have a really think and flexible flush cut saw for trimming dowel plugs flush. I also have two huge Lynx E. Garlick and Son Sheffield Eng. saws that are like 3 ft long. And finally, I have a Gyokucko Dotsuki Japanese pull-stroke saws with the metal spine along the back of the blade for rigidity. NONE of these saws will work. They all have a "set" to their teeth, even the really fine Japanese ones. So after trying this just 2-3 times, I can already see where the teeth scraping along the aluminum rails is wrecking them and will force them out of plane if they haven't already. Also, the saws that have a spine cannot ride flat along the rails, so it tips the blade into the wood at a slight angle due to the spine itself. AND... the saws with no spine are too flexible to stay straight between the two aluminum rails that are 4" apart from one another. So... I need a... dead flat, super rigid, long enough saw, that also have NO set to the teeth. OR... I need to rethink the whole idea. Can any one of you guys help me?
  10. I am trying to make tubes for drums. Here is a video that shows exactly what I want to do. In case the video does not start in the correct place, at 0:49 into this video, the two men discuss these birch plys, and then a few moments later you see o0ther guys cutting them on a table saw... then later the glue up. I apologize for not providing the end-goal in my original post. I was a little fixated on the details and didn't think to provide any big-picture goals. Columbia Forrest Company, the company that makes PureBond plywood that you all have seen at home depot I'm sure, makes a product called "Europly" plywood. This stuff is made up of 11(1/2")x or 15(3/4")x 1.27mm thick all-birch sheets/veneers/plys. Literally all I am looking for, is to be able to buy 30-60 of these birch plys before they are glued up into plywood boards. This should not be that hard to find... but it is. Ha ha ha. I am waiting to head back from Columbia Forrest to see if they will work with me on this. My guess though, is that they won't go for it, and it will likely be because their EuroPly plywood is not made the US, and it may not even be made by them. It kind of feels like they are trying to compete with the "Baltic Birch" plywood that is so rapidly gaining popularity, so they are just buying plywood from somewhere in Finnland, Russia, Estonia... and repackaging it as "EuroPly" here in the US. We shall see, I suppose.
  11. I've looked at the veneer route. The problem there is... as soon as the word veneer pops up, it is assumed that you are looking for "pretty wood" for decoration. So you start to see "pretty wood" prices. To put that into perspective... the veneer places are looking to get $2.50 per sq. ft. for 1mm thick birch veneers. That would be $80 for a 4' x 8' sheet. If you were to stack those 18 plys thick... like a standard sheet of plywood... that 4' x 8' sheet of plywood would cost $1,440. Looks like I may just be out of luck here.
  12. When you buy a sheet of 18+ ply Baltic Birch plywood, they are normally sold in 5ft x 5ft sheets. Each sheet is turned 90 degrees from the previous one. I’m sure everyone here knows that this is part of why plywood is so stable. The dimensions (4’ x 8’) is way less that important than the 1mm aspect. I can vary the grain direction myself,
  13. I mean 1 ply is 4’x8’ long grain... then the second ply is 4’x8’, the grain run in the opposite direction. Yes... i am essentially making my own Baltic birch plywood; just not flat.
  14. You know how all the fancy restaurants these days are taking a salad, arranging each ingredient on the plate separately in some fanciful way and calling it "deconstructed" salad? ... Well, I am looking for some deconstructed birch plywood. I need 1mm individual plys made out of either birch, maple, or mahogany. First choice would be birch, then maple, then mahogany. Also, just like when plywood is made, I need them to be cross-grained; so one play has the grain going E - W, then the next ply it goes N - S. I can find 1 mm plywood on the internet, relatively easily. But it is always 3 ply, but I need 1mm single-plys. I know this stuff is for sale in Finnland, Russia, and Germany. But... damn. How am I supposed to get it here? The shipping and probably whatever import tax and tariffs would make $45 worth of wood cost $375 I imagine; maybe even much more. Anybody know where I might start looking for this in the US?