• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

60 Good

About Dolmetscher007

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Craftsman, Shaker, Mid-Century Modern, Medieval, and Japanese.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah... I hear ya about the, "saw to the line and clean it up with a plane." And if this were a but joint, dovetail, mortise and tenon, or even a miter joint for furniture, I'd be fine with that. But when you are dealing with a very expensive hand-selected piece of perfectly quarter sawn and milled hard maple that has been seasoned and dried slowly to the perfect moisture content for stringed instruments... AND... you have already ruined 4-5 "test pieces" of poplar... I just don't see it working out without some kind of jig. The main problem is the length of the cut, the width of the board, and the thickness of the board. It sounds easy, in your head, to just use a combination square to strike your lines, prop the board up, clamp it to a bench or in a bench vice, and saw to the line. (maybe even use a sharp chisel or exacto knife to start yourself a little knife wall to get started.) But... the board is 4 inches wide and 1" thick. 13 degrees is a very shallow angle. The saw has to go through so much wood at that angle, that it just simply drifts every time. And it drifts BIG time! I've ended up 1/4" off the line by the time the saw exits the other side of the board. Again, I know it probably sounds like I'm being a baby and just don't want to put in the work to get good. But honestly, this whole post is me trying to balance great results with skill, and expense. I don't own a band saw, which sucks. I also don't own a plane. The only plane that I own is a low-angle Jack Plane from Veritas. It's a beautiful plane, but it is huge! I've tried using it on my test necks, and I just end up making things worse with it. I mean... I guess it is possible that I just suck at hand tools, and that any woodworker worth a squirt of piss could snatch my low-angled Jack outta my hands and true up my scarf joint in just a few seconds. I guess I could just keep practicing. Do you guys think this low-angled jack plane SHOULD be able to do this?
  2. Boy... I really blew it w/ my OP. Its a 13 degree cross cut through a 1” board. I do not have a band saw. i think my magnetic jig needs a major design change.
  3. I am building electric guitars, and need to cut a 13 degree scarf joint, reliably, and repeatably. I do not have a band saw, and I will not be able to afford one for quite some time. I have a wonderful 3HP 22V cabinet table saw. But it's blade is not tall enough to make the cut. And you'd have to make the cut in one pass. There is no way to flip the board etc. So... I set out to create my own... 13 degree angle sawing guide. I got the idea from the David Barron dovetail magnetic hand saw guides. They have a strong magnet that the saw rides along as you cut the dovetail. Makes it kind of idiot proof apparently. So, I went and bought some aluminum angle. I carefully measured it. I cut pieces at 13 degrees, and I even used aluminum brazing rods to braze it all together, before I bolted it down to a double layer of 3/4" MDF. I even added some hold-downs, and drilled for these screws that come in from either side of the wood, so that once it is in the jig, I can fine tune it square with the aluminum "rails" that are at 13 degrees. I used a dead flat metal file to really make sure that the two aluminum rails are on the same plane with one another, dead flat, and dead square to the board. I plan to find and order some neodymium magnetic bars to epoxy to the rails. And the grand idea is that I will be able to just put the maple board between the rails, clamp it square with the side-screws, and the clamp the whole thing down with the hold-downs. Then I can slap a hand saw to the magnets, and just carefully saw the perfect 13 degree angle through the board. In theory... it's aweseome! But here's what is really happening. I have several hand saws. One is one of those double-sided Japanese Gyokucho 9-1/2" ryoba pull razor saws. Then I also have a really think and flexible flush cut saw for trimming dowel plugs flush. I also have two huge Lynx E. Garlick and Son Sheffield Eng. saws that are like 3 ft long. And finally, I have a Gyokucko Dotsuki Japanese pull-stroke saws with the metal spine along the back of the blade for rigidity. NONE of these saws will work. They all have a "set" to their teeth, even the really fine Japanese ones. So after trying this just 2-3 times, I can already see where the teeth scraping along the aluminum rails is wrecking them and will force them out of plane if they haven't already. Also, the saws that have a spine cannot ride flat along the rails, so it tips the blade into the wood at a slight angle due to the spine itself. AND... the saws with no spine are too flexible to stay straight between the two aluminum rails that are 4" apart from one another. So... I need a... dead flat, super rigid, long enough saw, that also have NO set to the teeth. OR... I need to rethink the whole idea. Can any one of you guys help me?
  4. I am trying to make tubes for drums. Here is a video that shows exactly what I want to do. In case the video does not start in the correct place, at 0:49 into this video, the two men discuss these birch plys, and then a few moments later you see o0ther guys cutting them on a table saw... then later the glue up. I apologize for not providing the end-goal in my original post. I was a little fixated on the details and didn't think to provide any big-picture goals. Columbia Forrest Company, the company that makes PureBond plywood that you all have seen at home depot I'm sure, makes a product called "Europly" plywood. This stuff is made up of 11(1/2")x or 15(3/4")x 1.27mm thick all-birch sheets/veneers/plys. Literally all I am looking for, is to be able to buy 30-60 of these birch plys before they are glued up into plywood boards. This should not be that hard to find... but it is. Ha ha ha. I am waiting to head back from Columbia Forrest to see if they will work with me on this. My guess though, is that they won't go for it, and it will likely be because their EuroPly plywood is not made the US, and it may not even be made by them. It kind of feels like they are trying to compete with the "Baltic Birch" plywood that is so rapidly gaining popularity, so they are just buying plywood from somewhere in Finnland, Russia, Estonia... and repackaging it as "EuroPly" here in the US. We shall see, I suppose.
  5. I've looked at the veneer route. The problem there is... as soon as the word veneer pops up, it is assumed that you are looking for "pretty wood" for decoration. So you start to see "pretty wood" prices. To put that into perspective... the veneer places are looking to get $2.50 per sq. ft. for 1mm thick birch veneers. That would be $80 for a 4' x 8' sheet. If you were to stack those 18 plys thick... like a standard sheet of plywood... that 4' x 8' sheet of plywood would cost $1,440. Looks like I may just be out of luck here.
  6. When you buy a sheet of 18+ ply Baltic Birch plywood, they are normally sold in 5ft x 5ft sheets. Each sheet is turned 90 degrees from the previous one. I’m sure everyone here knows that this is part of why plywood is so stable. The dimensions (4’ x 8’) is way less that important than the 1mm aspect. I can vary the grain direction myself,
  7. I mean 1 ply is 4’x8’ long grain... then the second ply is 4’x8’, the grain run in the opposite direction. Yes... i am essentially making my own Baltic birch plywood; just not flat.
  8. You know how all the fancy restaurants these days are taking a salad, arranging each ingredient on the plate separately in some fanciful way and calling it "deconstructed" salad? ... Well, I am looking for some deconstructed birch plywood. I need 1mm individual plys made out of either birch, maple, or mahogany. First choice would be birch, then maple, then mahogany. Also, just like when plywood is made, I need them to be cross-grained; so one play has the grain going E - W, then the next ply it goes N - S. I can find 1 mm plywood on the internet, relatively easily. But it is always 3 ply, but I need 1mm single-plys. I know this stuff is for sale in Finnland, Russia, and Germany. But... damn. How am I supposed to get it here? The shipping and probably whatever import tax and tariffs would make $45 worth of wood cost $375 I imagine; maybe even much more. Anybody know where I might start looking for this in the US?
  9. I found out from the people that made the video that it is called, “Sugi”, which in English is called Japanese Red Cedar. This post brings up some questions I have about sourcing some not-so-hardwoods. I am trying to dip a toe into the lutherie waters and maybe make a few acoustic and electric guitars. I will eventually graduate to using the more expensive tone Woods lol Sitka Spruce. But in the meantime, I’d like to practice on some woods that are similar to Sitka Spruce but are available at any old Home Depot or lumber yard. Any suggestions?
  10. I ran across this video today on YouTube. Can anyone identify what kind of wood this old guy is using? The grain is so straight, so evenly spaced, and so tightly spaced... it looks to me like quarter sawn sitka spruce like you would see in an acoustic guitar soundboard. But considering that quarter sawn sitka spruce costs a bajillion dollars, I seriously doubt anyone would be making little trinket boxes out of it. I also do not think that Sitka Spruce is a tree that grows in Asia. I could be wrong all the way around, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Anybody else know of a species that looks this much like quarter sawn sitka spruce but might be some other, more native to Japan, wood?
  11. Just to not keep you guys hanging... (because I am sure you've all been loosing sleep wondering how my DIY lathe is coming... lol! I am giving up on this idea. I turned 40 this year, and I guess I've finally clicked-over from "Hmmm... Fuck it! let's go for it!" over into, "Wait, if that thing breaks off at 3,000 rpm, it could crack my skull." I guess adulthood is finally upon me. Also, I think we are going to rethink the whole process. Your plywood tubes intrigue me though. I cannot find them on the net. Could you post a link?
  12. Good point about the tool rest. I probably will just bootleg something together for that too. "Alcohol powered" may just be my new motto!!! That cracked me up. I personally don't even set foot in my shop once I've cracked a cold one. I play the guitar, and I wanna keep it that way! But... I have some buddies that I firmly believe Grizzly should wire in a breathalyzer into the ON switch of all their tools for. I'm also from Georgia, but the buddies I'm talking about don't live anywhere near Atlanta. They all talk about Atlanta using the same first sentence... "Boy... I remember this one time that I went to Atlanta for a..." and those stories always end with the same sentence. "... and I said right then, I'd never carry my ass back to Atlanta. And I sure as hell havn't. And that was 25 years ago!" Ha ha ha!
  13. Before everyone jumps in and says I'm stupid for even thinking about trying this, just hear me out. Lol! I do not actually want to build a proper wood "lathe," in the traditional sense. In my mind, a real lathe has a big heavy steel chuck, and a "stop" at the other end. And that the chuck and the end stop are very accurately on-center from one another. You can adjust everything etc etc etc. I want to build a lathe that does just one thing. I need to build several (>15) wooden "stave tubes" essentially. The guy that is paying me to make them is going to turn them into speaker boxes of some kind. These wooden tubes will be made from staves that are beveled (using a lot of math) so that they end up gluing up to 10", 12" 14" and 16" tubes. I do not have the exact measurements for how long (deep) the tubes will be, but I believe they will all be between 6 and 12 inches. I have done some research, and I see on YouTube, how some people build "Stave Drums" like for putting heads on and playing them as drums. And all the stave drum videos I've seen involve a router, several jigs, and basically slowly turning the wooden tubes over the router bit, nibbling away slowly until they are no longer faceted, but are tubular and smooth. Then another jig system is used to pass the router through the inside of the drum to smooth out those facets as well. And voila, a wooden tube. I got in contact with one of these guys, and he said it takes him at least 6 hours to do one of these shells. I gotta make 15-20!!! No way! So, I was thinking... I have a 2 HP motor that was barely ever used. It is even one of those closed in casing models specifically for use in wood shops. It has a max of 3400 rpm, but I could wire in a speed controller so the damn thing won't just whip on at 3,400 rpm, and I would use pulleys with different diameters to work out speed and mechanical advantage, etc. So, I'd like to build a stand, and at the top of the stand I'd have two bearing housings. I believe they are called pillow-bearings. I'd get a heavy duty 1+" thick steel rod that fits those bearings. For turning the outside of the tubes, I'd have to use a band saw to carefully cut out 3/4" plywood faceted circles that match the number of facets of the drums. I'd then drill a hole in the center of each of these faceted inserts, and pressure fit them into the tubes, matching up the facets, and probably secure them to the drum with 4 toenailed screws so that they could not vibrate out or anything like that. And then I'd have to thread this... thing... onto the axel, and push the axel through both of the pillow bearings. So, now, I'd essentially have a wooden drum, with an axel through it's center, that is secured on each end to bearings, and you could freely just spin the drum with your hand. Then, I'd have a pulley substantially attached (welded?) to one end, and have it so that when I switch on that 2 HP motor, and bring it up to speed, that drum is spinning at between 1,200 - 2,500 rpm or so, and I can use lathe tools to and I would actually buy a real lathe's tool rest. Obviously I'd take all necessary precautions with wiring in a safety kill button. I've even considered a kill switch that I clip on a belt loop that will cut power if I even jump back from the thing. Obviously nothing is worth cracking your head over, but this seems do'able. What do you guys think?