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About Dolmetscher007

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Craftsman, Shaker, Mid-Century Modern, Medieval, and Japanese.

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  1. I am very much a hobbyist and very much have a hobbyist budget. I have seen a lot of videos on, "Getting started with HVLP," and some of them are great. But... there are three aspects of an HVLP system that I'm finding difficult to parse out. Air compressor size and specs Connectors between different air hoses and components Nozzle size I have no aspiration to some day be spraying dozens of pieces all throughout a day. My needs are incredibly small. The largest thing I'd ever need to spray might be a book case... and even then, I'd only spray something once or twice a month max. So, I am pretty desperate to keep my investment as low as humanly possible. I already have a small Bostitch pancake air compressor for shooting brad nails. I recently bought a 3rd party attachment so I could also use this tiny compressor to inflate my car tires when they get low. It worked like a charm! The compressor did "kick on" very soon after I began filling my tire(s), but that is fine with me. Even if I have to spray just 2-3 passes and wait for the compressor to recover... that is fine with me as well. Time in not my enemy here. I looked on the internet for "Best HVLP spray gun 2020" and I found this gun listed as the best for the money. It costs only $40, and for $58, I can get a water/oil separator and some paint/finish strainers. It does not come with a hose. So, going back to the two items listed above... Is this air compressor capable of running this HVLP gun? Would I need to buy some kind of coupler to attach my existing air hose... to this water/oil separator? This same gun comes in 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.7 mm, and 2.0 mm. I will mostly be spraying common latex paint and oil-based alkyd paint. I'd also like to be able to spray lacquer and polyurethane (oil-based and water-based). I cannot tell which size nozzle would be the "happiest of mediums" for spraying all these materials. Thanks for all your help guys!
  2. I called a lumber yard, and they have 1/8" luan plywood in 4' x 8' sheets. I've heard of luan. plywood from a lot of my contractor friends. They use it for interior panels like wainscoting and certain parts of cabinets. I've never personally seen or touched it. Do you guys, who maybe have some experience with luan. plywood, think that it can bend around a 5-6" radius without cracking?
  3. Ya know... I never thought about it like that! I watch a lot of YouTube videos and no matter what, whenever someone is talking about gluing up thin sheets of wood into a lamination, they always point out that they are alternating the grain directions for added strength. For example, Gibson ES-335 guitars have a 3-ply, maple / poplar / maple laminated top that gets glued and pressed in something like an 80 ton heated press, and Gibson has always pointed out that they crisscross the grain for strength and rigidity. All the major drum companies also always point out, when they are making their drum shells, they use thin sheets of wood plys in with a crisscrossed grain for strength and rigidity. I can see what you are saying though. However... if the grain direction of each sheet is always facing the same direction, it will make the resulting sheet stronger (more resistance to bending) in one direction over the other. If you crisscross grain with each ply, you ensure that the final sheet will be just as rigid along the x-axis as the y-axis.
  4. Yeah... I know that most of the time bent wood lamination applications never get much wider than around 6" or less. So, most of the time, people just buy a piece or 8/4 and get to re-sawing it into 1/16-1/8" sheets. The problem is the size of what I need to make. I've attached a basic SketchUp drawing of the object with all it's final dimensions. I suck at match, so I cannot tell you the exact length I need, probably something no longer than 4 ft. long. I can adjust the dimensions slightly based on price and/or availability of the sheets (plys) I need. I have seen that Home Depot sells 1/8" plywood from Columbia Forest Products called PureBond Radius Bending Plywood. It is just 4' x 4' sheets of 2-ply basswood plywood that is thin enough to bend around a wide enough radius. I have a good feeling it would work for what I need. Problem is... it costs $32 per sheet. In order to get up to my 3/4" thickness, I would have to stack 6 sheets of this 1/8" stuff together. I would be able to rip each 4' x 4' sheet in half, so I'd only have to buy three of the $32 sheets. But I have to make two of these things, and I am not spending $200 for $45 worth of plywood that I actually had to ply together myself. Okay... that last bit is a bit ridiculous, but you get what I mean.
  5. Essentially need to make my own plywood. I am trying to find where I might be able to source larger sheets of hardwood. The species of wood is pretty irrelevant; whatever is cheapest and most available... most likely poplar. The "plys" must be between 1/6th and 1/8th of an inch so I can spread glue on them, alternatinv grain directions with each ply, bend them over a simply frame, strap them down all over possibly even use a vacuum bag, and let them harden in that shape. The mold is a simple rectangular cube with 4.5" radius rounded corners. The end shape will basically be a 3/4" thick, x 20" deep x by 28" deep capital letter "U" but with a longer flat area between the curves. I guess, kind of like a very small "half-pipe" for those of you out there that used to ride skateboards. Anyway... If you Google the word "veneer" you will find nothing but decorative veneer that are too thin, too pretty, and FAR too expensive. Is what I am looking for just not something that is really out there on the market? If it is, and you know what these "plys" are called, I would love it if you could let me know where to look. Thanks guys!
  6. I need a new drill and impact driver. I know that I want cordless, but... and I hate to admit this in public... I have never owned or even used one before. <gasp!> Things I care about... Highest build-quality possible: I'll pay more for quality. I'll buy a well built uni-tasker, over a feature-rich piece of plastic any day. Drilling into cinder block and concrete: Rarely need to... <5%. But, I don't want to buy a dedicated "Hammer drill" just for the couple of times I need to drill into my cinder-block garage wall Impact driver Longest battery life as possible Love Bosch: Once you start buying battery powered tools, it's best to pick a battery 'eco-system' so that you can use the same batteries. So, while I do love Bosch tools, if they have a poor reputation for cordless tools, I'm open to whatever., I'm fine with buying an impact driver and cordless drill separately. I've seen, however, a lot of articles lately about, "Hammer-Drill/Drivers." I didn't even know that was a thing. I thought that it was just understood that you buy a drill to drill, and an impact driver to drive screws. The times are always changing, though, so if I can get a super high-quality drill that has a hammer setting, and is also a powerful impact driver... sign me up! Things I do not care about... I'll only use it in my shop, so I do not care how heavy it is, or any nifty carrying cases. I don't care how quickly and easily you can change bits etc. Slowly and methodical changing of bits is actually relaxing to me. I don't care how loud/quiet it is. My neighbors are awesome, and I wear ear protection. I would be very grateful to anyone that can point me towards some specific models or even just offer some general things to consider. I love this forum, and I thank all you guys for always giving such great advice!
  7. I have found myself in a very interesting situation. Through a series of events, I have a storefront, in an industrial part of town where lots of plumbing, concrete, and building material firms have locations. I also have financial backing. I think I would really like to start a woodworkers' lumber source. The city that I live in has slightly over 500,000 people, and the only lumber yards, within several hundred miles, are all almost exclusively construction lumber. If you want to buy S4S maple, white oak, walnut, sapele, hickory, ash... etc... you have to go to one of the two huge, (100 yards x 100 yards), lumber yards in town, park your car, get out, and just stand there, while approx 75-100 guys, contractors, employees, and all together rough looking guys, a lot of which do not speak English, who have no interest in helping you. When I watch Marc Spagnuolo, David Picciuto, Jon Peters, and all the other woodworking heroes of mine on YouTube, when they go to their local lumber stores, I see nice stores, with kind staff, who have a great interest in hardwood and in helping the woodworkers of that area find what they really need. Wood is a funny product, in that there is never a brand name or a source associated with it. If you want to open a restaurant, it is easy to figure out where to source your ingredients. Where does lumber come from? Do any of you guys have any resources that you can point me to so that I can reach out and start conversations about me placing wholesale orders?
  8. At the moment, this is more of just an idea than an actual project, but I was wondering... Would anyone on here know of a way to reliably and accurately re-saw standard construction lumber from like a Home Depot into 3/16" - 1/4" slices or plys? I have some bent lamination ideas in mind that I may want to try out, but I want to use southern yellow pine (i.e. construction lumber). I know that if all I wanted to do is glue up and clamp thin wood to a curved frame, I could just use 1/4" plywood. But for aesthetic reasons, I really want to use solid loblolly pine (aka southern yellow pine) There is a guy on the YouTube Channel Lignum that makes a lot of stuff using bent lamination. He lives in some place like Denmark, Russia... who knows... and has access to very industrial machinery like a full on CNC robot arm. He also has this multi-blade slicer that he can feed a board into, and on the other side, it comes out sliced into thin strips. I have a pretty nice cabinet Grizzly table saw and I have the Dewalt planner. With it's 3.5" max cut height, resawing on a table saw sucks and is hella-dangerous. And even if I could get them sliced that way, I do not have a drum sander to get each ply faced and the exact same thickness. I do have a band saw, but it is a very rickety and under powered old Craftsman with no fence, and the table isn't even reliably flat. It is so under powered, that sometimes the blade will just jam and stop, mid cut, and I have to quickly kill the motor and wiggle the piece out through the kerf (not even during some crazy angle or curve, just straight resawing a 2x4.) Maybe a better question to ask is... Do you guys know if a high-output lumber yard would stock 3/16" - 1/4" s.y.p. boards already sliced and thicknessed?
  9. Yeah... I did think about just laminating multiple boards together myself. I am making a deck to go outside my house, so it won't be some massive load-bearing structure. (I don't have that many friends LOL!!!) This is the video that inspired my deck idea:
  10. I want these beams for outdoor use, btw. I am building a deck, and want to... actually, to describe it would take a long time, and it doesn't matter. I will call my local lumber yard. Probably should have done that to begin with. ha ha! Thanks guys. You are all the best. I love this forum!
  11. Like a lot of you guys I'm sure, I watch a pretty good bit of YouTube every day. I see on a regular basis where some woodworker is making some cabin, workbench, Japanese gate, or some other amazing project out of lumber that appears to be 8x8 or larger. Now, I know that there is a huge trend to make everything possible out of some old reclaimed barn wood from the 1800's, but I was curious... would a descent local lumber yard carry new lumber in these massive dimensions, and if so, would it just be sopping wet garbage that will end up twisting into a pretzel by the time it actually dries out, 6 years from when you get it home?
  12. I'm all about recycled composites. Do you know where I can find fake timber for outside stuff?
  13. What do you mean? Are pressure treated boards only good for wood that touches the ground? I always thought that one would use pressure treated wood for all outdoor stuff. Decks... Picnic Tables... etc...
  14. I am planning to build a sort of Japanese inspired wooden gate frame that will sit in basically direct sunlight, outdoors, in the rain... at all times. I am also going to be building craftsman style shutters for the front of my house, that will also be in the elements at all times. I have always assumed that "pressure-treated" lumber from the home store would be the wood I'd use, and I'd get around to finding out what is the best type of paint for outdoor wood projects. But now that I am getting closer to pulling the trigger, I wanted to ask you guys what you think. I definitely do not have the budget for any wood that is more expensive than pressure-treated lumber. In other words, I can't afford to build it out of Ipe from Brazil, or whatever. I have, however, never painted pressure treated wood... so I do not even know if that is a potential issue. What is the absolute most iron-clad wood and a wood-treatment option for outdoor projects that I hope to end up white? I am absolutely open to using something like Thompson's Water Seel, or a Spar Urethane... and then painting over all that with another white paint. I am also open to scraping and repainting in a few years. What I am NOT looking for, is a solution that will warp to hell in the sun, and/or soak in water like a sponge and rot where it touches the ground.