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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. I want to a powerful and supremely accurate CNC machine. I've always looked at the X-Carve, because it was the first CNC machine that I know of that "made it to market" for the average guy. Their marketing cut through all the noise, to the point that the X-Carve is pretty much the only name brand I can think of when it comes to woodworking CNC machines. When I watch all my favorite YouTubers though, most of them built their own CNC machines. I've been doing some Google searching, and I've found several "DIY CNC machine" resources, but... they all seem to be connected, in some form or fashion, to some kind of business that wants to sell you CNC machines, parts, or kits. I guess that's fine. I certainly don't fault someone for wanting to put together a "product' to help them turn their nerdy hobby into some income. For me, the total n00bie, though... it makes it a little challenging to sift through what's solid trustworthy information and what's, "Buy my kit," information. This WoodTalk Forum has always been a tremendous help to me for woodworking questions, so I thought I'd ask you guys, if any one of you might know of a solid DIY CNC Machine forum where I can go ask all my silly n00bie questions about CNC machine design?
  2. I think I know the answer to this, but it seems ridiculous to me. I was recently looking at some lumber online, just checking around to see if it is cheaper for me to buy lumber online or go to the lumber yard in town. I happened upon several websites selling "slabs." I know they are mega-popular right now. Every Pinterest queen and Magazine spread shows some life-edge slab coffee table or $10,000 board room table that is the cross section of a tree. Sure... they look kinda cool. I certainly don't hate the aesthetic. But... I just saw an 8/4 slab of white oak that was 1.60″ thick, tapered from 20″ - 26″ wide, and 35″ long. That adds up to 11.18 board feet of white oak, It was "on sale" for $370, with a regular price of $615!!! Gimme a break. My local Home Depot sells 10 board feet of 8/4 S4S white oak for $210, and I think that is highway robbery!!! I know it is popular and all that, but am I missing something here? It seems to me that leaving the live edge on, allows the sawyer to sell more wood with less waste, saves some wear on his blade(s), and maybe even saves him a step or two on the overall process. So... what gives? I can understand charging a fat premium if the slab is some kind of extremely rare item, like a highly figured crotch section with... I dunno... embedded diamond dust or something. But... the $370 slab I mentioned above (on sale, bahahahaaa) was just a raggedy old slab of flat sawn... oak tree.
  3. Dude... @difalkner... this is, in my opinion, my best option. I could even do something like what you suggested, one joist at a time. I could also reuse the lumber, so my net cost would be much less than any kind of roof-raising, et cetera. My one concern, however, is... I just went out into the shop, got up on a ladder, and looked at the joists and rafters for the first real time. I've never paid attention to exactly how they were made. Below is a quick SketchUp approximation I made real quick. The whole situation looks kind of sketchy, to be honest. I mean, the lumber looks fine, but... where all the joists and rafters all meet, the builders just sandwiched each "joint" with 1/2" ply wood. The plywood doesn't look like it's very structurally sound anymore. Like, the plys look like they are kind of delaminating, and it just looks really dry and brittle. My house was built in 1950. I don't know if the garage was also built in 1950, but it was obviously built 20-30 years ago, at least. I imagine there are some more modern metal plates that are better than just using plywood. But... then again... what do I know about this kind of thing? My only other concern is... if you look at the drawing below... the yellow wood is what is already there. Everything that is blue represents the joists I'd be cutting down, raising, and reinstalling. The green wood represents some thing I'm not sure about. Can I really just remove the existing joist, cut it to the correct length for 24 inches higher up the ceiling, re-attach it to the rafters (using whatever proper roofing jointing plates)... and then once I've done it across each of the rafters... I'd re-install the ceiling, insulate it again.. and I'm done. OR... would that weaken the roof where it lands on the top of each wall, and I'd have to.... do something more?
  4. Ahhh... I can already tell that this guys method would not be ideal for my situation. His garage is made out of OSB with 2x4 studs. My garage is full on cinder block and mortar construction. I imagine that even if I could find jacks that are strong enough... AND... I could do it all perfectly... the lack of flexibility in the material would cause the walls to crack in multiple places, and turn solid walls into broken stacks of loose cinder blocks. However... the idea still stands... I could possibly take the same idea, but apply it to just my roof. I'd have to figure out exactly how the whole roof assembly is attached to the tops of the walls and see about detaching just the roof... lifting it... and adding a couple more rows of cinder blocks to the tops of the walls, and then setting the roof back down. That would all most likely involve some reinforcement so that when I lift the ceiling, off it's base, it doesn't start to deform, twist, or try to flatten itself out in some way. I dunno. It is all sounding like I will most likely just have to live with what I've got, and do some inner work on my patience level. Ha ha ha... Where's Oprah when you need her?
  5. Woah...!!! I never even thought of lifting the whole building! That's insane! I mean... I love it. I'm gonna watch that video now and see how insane it really is. Might be totally doable. Thanks man!
  6. My wood shop is a two car garage that is literally bursting with all my woodworking tools. Massive 3HP cabinet-style table saw, band saw, planner, miter station... etc etc. I love my shop. BUT... the ceiling is simply too damn low. It IS a garage after all, so I do not expect luxurious vaulted ceilings with recessed skylights or anything like that. But... it isn't even a standard 8 ft. high. The ceiling is 7' 8". I am a really tall guy, 6'5", so... it really feels pretty weird to me just to be in my shop. It feels claustrophobic somehow. Not only that, it is... such... and enormous pain in the ass to work with standard sheet goods. Most of the projects I build begin their life as 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4" plywood. I'm sure it sounds like not that big of a deal; you jut have to remember you can't stand the board up on its end. Let me tell you... it really sucks a lot of the joy out of the whole experience when you can't turn the board around "that way" and there is a band saw in the way if you try to flip it "that way"... so I end up having to open the garage door, walk out with the board, flip it, and then re-enter with it... do that 3-4 times and you start thinking about how you really do need to get back at that whole meditation zen stuff everyone keeps talking about. So... I'm no home improvement expert. I've done some wainscoting, a lot of painting, and even installed some lighting fixtures, but... I have no idea about raising a ceiling by 8-12 inches or so. I have forgotten the exact dimensions of my shop, but it is essentially a large square, 25' x 25' cinder block building that is detached from my house and is about 10 feet away from my house. The roof is a standard "A-shaped" shingled roof just like the house. From inside the shop, the ceiling is just 1/4" plywood screwed into the rafters with 1.5" wide 1/4" wooden trim covering all the seems between each 4' x 8' ceiling "panel". There is a knock out, so I can get up into the "attic" so-to-speak, and whoever built the garage was awesome enough to insulate the ceiling. There are rolls of pink insulation covering the whole thing. Here in Charleston, SC... it easily stays at or above 100 degrees during the summer, but out in my garage... it's weirdly tolerable thanks to this insulation. So... anyway... cost is not so much of a concern to me as structural unknowns. I just don't know if it is even common for people to even try things like this. I'd hate to get $2k and a lot of work into a ceiling lift project, only to find out that what I'm doing makes the whole damn roof kinda sketchy now. Charleston SC is also very prone to unwanted visitations by traveling hurricanes! I'd hate to look out my window and see my wood shop having it's cap peeled. What do you guys think?
  7. This is a long shot. I drive a 4 door sedan, a VW Passat with no luggage rack on top. I do not plan on getting a pickup truck, SUV, or any kind of luggage rack any time in the near to distant future. I have needed to figure out some kind of transportation solution though for several years. What I have done so far is just no longer something I'm willing to do. I used to literally rent Home Depot's big industrial sized pickup trucks for $20/hour whenever I need to get large sheets of plywood or MDF home. A lot of time, I don't even buy the wood from Home Depot, but instead from a local lumber yard that has a better selection and better price sometimes, but I still rent the Home Depot truck because it is less hassle, cheaper, faster, and the truck is much larger than if I rented from a local Enterprise or something like that. The problem is... if I am one minute over returning the truck, it costs and additional $20, and I am ALWAYS over by 3-5 minutes at least. Plus, I very rarely need to buy a big load of 10+ sheets of plywood, but more often than not, I just need one, maybe two. So spending the money, the worry, and all the bullshit that goes into renting a truck has just... I can't do it anymore. I've looked into trailers and trailer hitches, and those get north of $1k immediately. Even things like adding a luggage rack is not an option, because I decided to give leasing a car a try (don't do it... buy a used car before leasing a car. It's a bad idea). But anyway... luggage racks cost hundreds of dollars and I'd have to have it installed on a car that isn't even mine. So... I am kind of in a bad way, huh? I've put off asking "the group" about this, because I have just assumed you guys would make fun of me (ha!) or suggest something I'd have to buy (luggage rack, trailer, etc). But to be perfectly honest, I am just not in a position to invest really ANY money into anything other than materials to complete paying projects. Anybody know of any totally DIY methods for tying down sheet goods to a sadan that won't end up with me on the evening news for being the world's first flying Volkswagon?
  8. I am very much a hobbyist and very much have a hobbyist budget. I have seen a lot of videos on, "Getting started with HVLP," and some of them are great. But... there are three aspects of an HVLP system that I'm finding difficult to parse out. Air compressor size and specs Connectors between different air hoses and components Nozzle size I have no aspiration to some day be spraying dozens of pieces all throughout a day. My needs are incredibly small. The largest thing I'd ever need to spray might be a book case... and even then, I'd only spray something once or twice a month max. So, I am pretty desperate to keep my investment as low as humanly possible. I already have a small Bostitch pancake air compressor for shooting brad nails. I recently bought a 3rd party attachment so I could also use this tiny compressor to inflate my car tires when they get low. It worked like a charm! The compressor did "kick on" very soon after I began filling my tire(s), but that is fine with me. Even if I have to spray just 2-3 passes and wait for the compressor to recover... that is fine with me as well. Time in not my enemy here. I looked on the internet for "Best HVLP spray gun 2020" and I found this gun listed as the best for the money. It costs only $40, and for $58, I can get a water/oil separator and some paint/finish strainers. It does not come with a hose. So, going back to the two items listed above... Is this air compressor capable of running this HVLP gun? Would I need to buy some kind of coupler to attach my existing air hose... to this water/oil separator? This same gun comes in 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.7 mm, and 2.0 mm. I will mostly be spraying common latex paint and oil-based alkyd paint. I'd also like to be able to spray lacquer and polyurethane (oil-based and water-based). I cannot tell which size nozzle would be the "happiest of mediums" for spraying all these materials. Thanks for all your help guys!
  9. I called a lumber yard, and they have 1/8" luan plywood in 4' x 8' sheets. I've heard of luan. plywood from a lot of my contractor friends. They use it for interior panels like wainscoting and certain parts of cabinets. I've never personally seen or touched it. Do you guys, who maybe have some experience with luan. plywood, think that it can bend around a 5-6" radius without cracking?
  10. Ya know... I never thought about it like that! I watch a lot of YouTube videos and no matter what, whenever someone is talking about gluing up thin sheets of wood into a lamination, they always point out that they are alternating the grain directions for added strength. For example, Gibson ES-335 guitars have a 3-ply, maple / poplar / maple laminated top that gets glued and pressed in something like an 80 ton heated press, and Gibson has always pointed out that they crisscross the grain for strength and rigidity. All the major drum companies also always point out, when they are making their drum shells, they use thin sheets of wood plys in with a crisscrossed grain for strength and rigidity. I can see what you are saying though. However... if the grain direction of each sheet is always facing the same direction, it will make the resulting sheet stronger (more resistance to bending) in one direction over the other. If you crisscross grain with each ply, you ensure that the final sheet will be just as rigid along the x-axis as the y-axis.
  11. Yeah... I know that most of the time bent wood lamination applications never get much wider than around 6" or less. So, most of the time, people just buy a piece or 8/4 and get to re-sawing it into 1/16-1/8" sheets. The problem is the size of what I need to make. I've attached a basic SketchUp drawing of the object with all it's final dimensions. I suck at match, so I cannot tell you the exact length I need, probably something no longer than 4 ft. long. I can adjust the dimensions slightly based on price and/or availability of the sheets (plys) I need. I have seen that Home Depot sells 1/8" plywood from Columbia Forest Products called PureBond Radius Bending Plywood. It is just 4' x 4' sheets of 2-ply basswood plywood that is thin enough to bend around a wide enough radius. I have a good feeling it would work for what I need. Problem is... it costs $32 per sheet. In order to get up to my 3/4" thickness, I would have to stack 6 sheets of this 1/8" stuff together. I would be able to rip each 4' x 4' sheet in half, so I'd only have to buy three of the $32 sheets. But I have to make two of these things, and I am not spending $200 for $45 worth of plywood that I actually had to ply together myself. Okay... that last bit is a bit ridiculous, but you get what I mean.
  12. Essentially need to make my own plywood. I am trying to find where I might be able to source larger sheets of hardwood. The species of wood is pretty irrelevant; whatever is cheapest and most available... most likely poplar. The "plys" must be between 1/6th and 1/8th of an inch so I can spread glue on them, alternatinv grain directions with each ply, bend them over a simply frame, strap them down all over possibly even use a vacuum bag, and let them harden in that shape. The mold is a simple rectangular cube with 4.5" radius rounded corners. The end shape will basically be a 3/4" thick, x 20" deep x by 28" deep capital letter "U" but with a longer flat area between the curves. I guess, kind of like a very small "half-pipe" for those of you out there that used to ride skateboards. Anyway... If you Google the word "veneer" you will find nothing but decorative veneer that are too thin, too pretty, and FAR too expensive. Is what I am looking for just not something that is really out there on the market? If it is, and you know what these "plys" are called, I would love it if you could let me know where to look. Thanks guys!
  13. I need a new drill and impact driver. I know that I want cordless, but... and I hate to admit this in public... I have never owned or even used one before. <gasp!> Things I care about... Highest build-quality possible: I'll pay more for quality. I'll buy a well built uni-tasker, over a feature-rich piece of plastic any day. Drilling into cinder block and concrete: Rarely need to... <5%. But, I don't want to buy a dedicated "Hammer drill" just for the couple of times I need to drill into my cinder-block garage wall Impact driver Longest battery life as possible Love Bosch: Once you start buying battery powered tools, it's best to pick a battery 'eco-system' so that you can use the same batteries. So, while I do love Bosch tools, if they have a poor reputation for cordless tools, I'm open to whatever., I'm fine with buying an impact driver and cordless drill separately. I've seen, however, a lot of articles lately about, "Hammer-Drill/Drivers." I didn't even know that was a thing. I thought that it was just understood that you buy a drill to drill, and an impact driver to drive screws. The times are always changing, though, so if I can get a super high-quality drill that has a hammer setting, and is also a powerful impact driver... sign me up! Things I do not care about... I'll only use it in my shop, so I do not care how heavy it is, or any nifty carrying cases. I don't care how quickly and easily you can change bits etc. Slowly and methodical changing of bits is actually relaxing to me. I don't care how loud/quiet it is. My neighbors are awesome, and I wear ear protection. I would be very grateful to anyone that can point me towards some specific models or even just offer some general things to consider. I love this forum, and I thank all you guys for always giving such great advice!
  14. I have found myself in a very interesting situation. Through a series of events, I have a storefront, in an industrial part of town where lots of plumbing, concrete, and building material firms have locations. I also have financial backing. I think I would really like to start a woodworkers' lumber source. The city that I live in has slightly over 500,000 people, and the only lumber yards, within several hundred miles, are all almost exclusively construction lumber. If you want to buy S4S maple, white oak, walnut, sapele, hickory, ash... etc... you have to go to one of the two huge, (100 yards x 100 yards), lumber yards in town, park your car, get out, and just stand there, while approx 75-100 guys, contractors, employees, and all together rough looking guys, a lot of which do not speak English, who have no interest in helping you. When I watch Marc Spagnuolo, David Picciuto, Jon Peters, and all the other woodworking heroes of mine on YouTube, when they go to their local lumber stores, I see nice stores, with kind staff, who have a great interest in hardwood and in helping the woodworkers of that area find what they really need. Wood is a funny product, in that there is never a brand name or a source associated with it. If you want to open a restaurant, it is easy to figure out where to source your ingredients. Where does lumber come from? Do any of you guys have any resources that you can point me to so that I can reach out and start conversations about me placing wholesale orders?
  15. At the moment, this is more of just an idea than an actual project, but I was wondering... Would anyone on here know of a way to reliably and accurately re-saw standard construction lumber from like a Home Depot into 3/16" - 1/4" slices or plys? I have some bent lamination ideas in mind that I may want to try out, but I want to use southern yellow pine (i.e. construction lumber). I know that if all I wanted to do is glue up and clamp thin wood to a curved frame, I could just use 1/4" plywood. But for aesthetic reasons, I really want to use solid loblolly pine (aka southern yellow pine) There is a guy on the YouTube Channel Lignum that makes a lot of stuff using bent lamination. He lives in some place like Denmark, Russia... who knows... and has access to very industrial machinery like a full on CNC robot arm. He also has this multi-blade slicer that he can feed a board into, and on the other side, it comes out sliced into thin strips. I have a pretty nice cabinet Grizzly table saw and I have the Dewalt planner. With it's 3.5" max cut height, resawing on a table saw sucks and is hella-dangerous. And even if I could get them sliced that way, I do not have a drum sander to get each ply faced and the exact same thickness. I do have a band saw, but it is a very rickety and under powered old Craftsman with no fence, and the table isn't even reliably flat. It is so under powered, that sometimes the blade will just jam and stop, mid cut, and I have to quickly kill the motor and wiggle the piece out through the kerf (not even during some crazy angle or curve, just straight resawing a 2x4.) Maybe a better question to ask is... Do you guys know if a high-output lumber yard would stock 3/16" - 1/4" s.y.p. boards already sliced and thicknessed?
  16. Yeah... I did think about just laminating multiple boards together myself. I am making a deck to go outside my house, so it won't be some massive load-bearing structure. (I don't have that many friends LOL!!!) This is the video that inspired my deck idea:
  17. I want these beams for outdoor use, btw. I am building a deck, and want to... actually, to describe it would take a long time, and it doesn't matter. I will call my local lumber yard. Probably should have done that to begin with. ha ha! Thanks guys. You are all the best. I love this forum!
  18. Like a lot of you guys I'm sure, I watch a pretty good bit of YouTube every day. I see on a regular basis where some woodworker is making some cabin, workbench, Japanese gate, or some other amazing project out of lumber that appears to be 8x8 or larger. Now, I know that there is a huge trend to make everything possible out of some old reclaimed barn wood from the 1800's, but I was curious... would a descent local lumber yard carry new lumber in these massive dimensions, and if so, would it just be sopping wet garbage that will end up twisting into a pretzel by the time it actually dries out, 6 years from when you get it home?
  19. I'm all about recycled composites. Do you know where I can find fake timber for outside stuff?
  20. What do you mean? Are pressure treated boards only good for wood that touches the ground? I always thought that one would use pressure treated wood for all outdoor stuff. Decks... Picnic Tables... etc...
  21. I am planning to build a sort of Japanese inspired wooden gate frame that will sit in basically direct sunlight, outdoors, in the rain... at all times. I am also going to be building craftsman style shutters for the front of my house, that will also be in the elements at all times. I have always assumed that "pressure-treated" lumber from the home store would be the wood I'd use, and I'd get around to finding out what is the best type of paint for outdoor wood projects. But now that I am getting closer to pulling the trigger, I wanted to ask you guys what you think. I definitely do not have the budget for any wood that is more expensive than pressure-treated lumber. In other words, I can't afford to build it out of Ipe from Brazil, or whatever. I have, however, never painted pressure treated wood... so I do not even know if that is a potential issue. What is the absolute most iron-clad wood and a wood-treatment option for outdoor projects that I hope to end up white? I am absolutely open to using something like Thompson's Water Seel, or a Spar Urethane... and then painting over all that with another white paint. I am also open to scraping and repainting in a few years. What I am NOT looking for, is a solution that will warp to hell in the sun, and/or soak in water like a sponge and rot where it touches the ground.
  22. Yeah... I hear ya about the, "saw to the line and clean it up with a plane." And if this were a but joint, dovetail, mortise and tenon, or even a miter joint for furniture, I'd be fine with that. But when you are dealing with a very expensive hand-selected piece of perfectly quarter sawn and milled hard maple that has been seasoned and dried slowly to the perfect moisture content for stringed instruments... AND... you have already ruined 4-5 "test pieces" of poplar... I just don't see it working out without some kind of jig. The main problem is the length of the cut, the width of the board, and the thickness of the board. It sounds easy, in your head, to just use a combination square to strike your lines, prop the board up, clamp it to a bench or in a bench vice, and saw to the line. (maybe even use a sharp chisel or exacto knife to start yourself a little knife wall to get started.) But... the board is 4 inches wide and 1" thick. 13 degrees is a very shallow angle. The saw has to go through so much wood at that angle, that it just simply drifts every time. And it drifts BIG time! I've ended up 1/4" off the line by the time the saw exits the other side of the board. Again, I know it probably sounds like I'm being a baby and just don't want to put in the work to get good. But honestly, this whole post is me trying to balance great results with skill, and expense. I don't own a band saw, which sucks. I also don't own a plane. The only plane that I own is a low-angle Jack Plane from Veritas. It's a beautiful plane, but it is huge! I've tried using it on my test necks, and I just end up making things worse with it. I mean... I guess it is possible that I just suck at hand tools, and that any woodworker worth a squirt of piss could snatch my low-angled Jack outta my hands and true up my scarf joint in just a few seconds. I guess I could just keep practicing. Do you guys think this low-angled jack plane SHOULD be able to do this?
  23. Boy... I really blew it w/ my OP. Its a 13 degree cross cut through a 1” board. I do not have a band saw. i think my magnetic jig needs a major design change.
  24. I am building electric guitars, and need to cut a 13 degree scarf joint, reliably, and repeatably. I do not have a band saw, and I will not be able to afford one for quite some time. I have a wonderful 3HP 22V cabinet table saw. But it's blade is not tall enough to make the cut. And you'd have to make the cut in one pass. There is no way to flip the board etc. So... I set out to create my own... 13 degree angle sawing guide. I got the idea from the David Barron dovetail magnetic hand saw guides. They have a strong magnet that the saw rides along as you cut the dovetail. Makes it kind of idiot proof apparently. So, I went and bought some aluminum angle. I carefully measured it. I cut pieces at 13 degrees, and I even used aluminum brazing rods to braze it all together, before I bolted it down to a double layer of 3/4" MDF. I even added some hold-downs, and drilled for these screws that come in from either side of the wood, so that once it is in the jig, I can fine tune it square with the aluminum "rails" that are at 13 degrees. I used a dead flat metal file to really make sure that the two aluminum rails are on the same plane with one another, dead flat, and dead square to the board. I plan to find and order some neodymium magnetic bars to epoxy to the rails. And the grand idea is that I will be able to just put the maple board between the rails, clamp it square with the side-screws, and the clamp the whole thing down with the hold-downs. Then I can slap a hand saw to the magnets, and just carefully saw the perfect 13 degree angle through the board. In theory... it's aweseome! But here's what is really happening. I have several hand saws. One is one of those double-sided Japanese Gyokucho 9-1/2" ryoba pull razor saws. Then I also have a really think and flexible flush cut saw for trimming dowel plugs flush. I also have two huge Lynx E. Garlick and Son Sheffield Eng. saws that are like 3 ft long. And finally, I have a Gyokucko Dotsuki Japanese pull-stroke saws with the metal spine along the back of the blade for rigidity. NONE of these saws will work. They all have a "set" to their teeth, even the really fine Japanese ones. So after trying this just 2-3 times, I can already see where the teeth scraping along the aluminum rails is wrecking them and will force them out of plane if they haven't already. Also, the saws that have a spine cannot ride flat along the rails, so it tips the blade into the wood at a slight angle due to the spine itself. AND... the saws with no spine are too flexible to stay straight between the two aluminum rails that are 4" apart from one another. So... I need a... dead flat, super rigid, long enough saw, that also have NO set to the teeth. OR... I need to rethink the whole idea. Can any one of you guys help me?