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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. I am trying to make tubes for drums. Here is a video that shows exactly what I want to do. In case the video does not start in the correct place, at 0:49 into this video, the two men discuss these birch plys, and then a few moments later you see o0ther guys cutting them on a table saw... then later the glue up. I apologize for not providing the end-goal in my original post. I was a little fixated on the details and didn't think to provide any big-picture goals. Columbia Forrest Company, the company that makes PureBond plywood that you all have seen at home depot I'm sure, makes a product called "Europly" plywood. This stuff is made up of 11(1/2")x or 15(3/4")x 1.27mm thick all-birch sheets/veneers/plys. Literally all I am looking for, is to be able to buy 30-60 of these birch plys before they are glued up into plywood boards. This should not be that hard to find... but it is. Ha ha ha. I am waiting to head back from Columbia Forrest to see if they will work with me on this. My guess though, is that they won't go for it, and it will likely be because their EuroPly plywood is not made the US, and it may not even be made by them. It kind of feels like they are trying to compete with the "Baltic Birch" plywood that is so rapidly gaining popularity, so they are just buying plywood from somewhere in Finnland, Russia, Estonia... and repackaging it as "EuroPly" here in the US. We shall see, I suppose.
  2. I've looked at the veneer route. The problem there is... as soon as the word veneer pops up, it is assumed that you are looking for "pretty wood" for decoration. So you start to see "pretty wood" prices. To put that into perspective... the veneer places are looking to get $2.50 per sq. ft. for 1mm thick birch veneers. That would be $80 for a 4' x 8' sheet. If you were to stack those 18 plys thick... like a standard sheet of plywood... that 4' x 8' sheet of plywood would cost $1,440. Looks like I may just be out of luck here.
  3. When you buy a sheet of 18+ ply Baltic Birch plywood, they are normally sold in 5ft x 5ft sheets. Each sheet is turned 90 degrees from the previous one. I’m sure everyone here knows that this is part of why plywood is so stable. The dimensions (4’ x 8’) is way less that important than the 1mm aspect. I can vary the grain direction myself,
  4. I mean 1 ply is 4’x8’ long grain... then the second ply is 4’x8’, the grain run in the opposite direction. Yes... i am essentially making my own Baltic birch plywood; just not flat.
  5. You know how all the fancy restaurants these days are taking a salad, arranging each ingredient on the plate separately in some fanciful way and calling it "deconstructed" salad? ... Well, I am looking for some deconstructed birch plywood. I need 1mm individual plys made out of either birch, maple, or mahogany. First choice would be birch, then maple, then mahogany. Also, just like when plywood is made, I need them to be cross-grained; so one play has the grain going E - W, then the next ply it goes N - S. I can find 1 mm plywood on the internet, relatively easily. But it is always 3 ply, but I need 1mm single-plys. I know this stuff is for sale in Finnland, Russia, and Germany. But... damn. How am I supposed to get it here? The shipping and probably whatever import tax and tariffs would make $45 worth of wood cost $375 I imagine; maybe even much more. Anybody know where I might start looking for this in the US?
  6. I found out from the people that made the video that it is called, “Sugi”, which in English is called Japanese Red Cedar. This post brings up some questions I have about sourcing some not-so-hardwoods. I am trying to dip a toe into the lutherie waters and maybe make a few acoustic and electric guitars. I will eventually graduate to using the more expensive tone Woods lol Sitka Spruce. But in the meantime, I’d like to practice on some woods that are similar to Sitka Spruce but are available at any old Home Depot or lumber yard. Any suggestions?
  7. I ran across this video today on YouTube. Can anyone identify what kind of wood this old guy is using? The grain is so straight, so evenly spaced, and so tightly spaced... it looks to me like quarter sawn sitka spruce like you would see in an acoustic guitar soundboard. But considering that quarter sawn sitka spruce costs a bajillion dollars, I seriously doubt anyone would be making little trinket boxes out of it. I also do not think that Sitka Spruce is a tree that grows in Asia. I could be wrong all the way around, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Anybody else know of a species that looks this much like quarter sawn sitka spruce but might be some other, more native to Japan, wood?
  8. Just to not keep you guys hanging... (because I am sure you've all been loosing sleep wondering how my DIY lathe is coming... lol! I am giving up on this idea. I turned 40 this year, and I guess I've finally clicked-over from "Hmmm... Fuck it! let's go for it!" over into, "Wait, if that thing breaks off at 3,000 rpm, it could crack my skull." I guess adulthood is finally upon me. Also, I think we are going to rethink the whole process. Your plywood tubes intrigue me though. I cannot find them on the net. Could you post a link?
  9. Good point about the tool rest. I probably will just bootleg something together for that too. "Alcohol powered" may just be my new motto!!! That cracked me up. I personally don't even set foot in my shop once I've cracked a cold one. I play the guitar, and I wanna keep it that way! But... I have some buddies that I firmly believe Grizzly should wire in a breathalyzer into the ON switch of all their tools for. I'm also from Georgia, but the buddies I'm talking about don't live anywhere near Atlanta. They all talk about Atlanta using the same first sentence... "Boy... I remember this one time that I went to Atlanta for a..." and those stories always end with the same sentence. "... and I said right then, I'd never carry my ass back to Atlanta. And I sure as hell havn't. And that was 25 years ago!" Ha ha ha!
  10. Before everyone jumps in and says I'm stupid for even thinking about trying this, just hear me out. Lol! I do not actually want to build a proper wood "lathe," in the traditional sense. In my mind, a real lathe has a big heavy steel chuck, and a "stop" at the other end. And that the chuck and the end stop are very accurately on-center from one another. You can adjust everything etc etc etc. I want to build a lathe that does just one thing. I need to build several (>15) wooden "stave tubes" essentially. The guy that is paying me to make them is going to turn them into speaker boxes of some kind. These wooden tubes will be made from staves that are beveled (using a lot of math) so that they end up gluing up to 10", 12" 14" and 16" tubes. I do not have the exact measurements for how long (deep) the tubes will be, but I believe they will all be between 6 and 12 inches. I have done some research, and I see on YouTube, how some people build "Stave Drums" like for putting heads on and playing them as drums. And all the stave drum videos I've seen involve a router, several jigs, and basically slowly turning the wooden tubes over the router bit, nibbling away slowly until they are no longer faceted, but are tubular and smooth. Then another jig system is used to pass the router through the inside of the drum to smooth out those facets as well. And voila, a wooden tube. I got in contact with one of these guys, and he said it takes him at least 6 hours to do one of these shells. I gotta make 15-20!!! No way! So, I was thinking... I have a 2 HP motor that was barely ever used. It is even one of those closed in casing models specifically for use in wood shops. It has a max of 3400 rpm, but I could wire in a speed controller so the damn thing won't just whip on at 3,400 rpm, and I would use pulleys with different diameters to work out speed and mechanical advantage, etc. So, I'd like to build a stand, and at the top of the stand I'd have two bearing housings. I believe they are called pillow-bearings. I'd get a heavy duty 1+" thick steel rod that fits those bearings. For turning the outside of the tubes, I'd have to use a band saw to carefully cut out 3/4" plywood faceted circles that match the number of facets of the drums. I'd then drill a hole in the center of each of these faceted inserts, and pressure fit them into the tubes, matching up the facets, and probably secure them to the drum with 4 toenailed screws so that they could not vibrate out or anything like that. And then I'd have to thread this... thing... onto the axel, and push the axel through both of the pillow bearings. So, now, I'd essentially have a wooden drum, with an axel through it's center, that is secured on each end to bearings, and you could freely just spin the drum with your hand. Then, I'd have a pulley substantially attached (welded?) to one end, and have it so that when I switch on that 2 HP motor, and bring it up to speed, that drum is spinning at between 1,200 - 2,500 rpm or so, and I can use lathe tools to and I would actually buy a real lathe's tool rest. Obviously I'd take all necessary precautions with wiring in a safety kill button. I've even considered a kill switch that I clip on a belt loop that will cut power if I even jump back from the thing. Obviously nothing is worth cracking your head over, but this seems do'able. What do you guys think?
  11. Definitely. I don't expect rough sawn lumber to just show up slick and dead flat all around. I should have stipulated that I'd need them to S4S, or at least S2S the lumber prior to sending it to me. I do not have a joiner or any other reasonable way to S4S lumber myself. The reason I need it to be so stable and straight grained, is because I want to use it to build neck-through electric guitars. This means that the neck is not separate from the body and glued in; instead the neck continues all the way through the center of the guitar body, The board would start out at 1.75" thick (the thickness of the guitar body), and 5" wide. Since a guitar body is between 14-16 inches at it's widest section, I glue two "ears" on each side of the body block. These "ears" can be pretty much any hardwood (alder, ash, basswood). So yeah... I just need it to be straight once S4S'ed, and I need it to be straight-grained and quartersawn so that it is more likely to stay straight.
  12. Hey Guys, I have some projects that require some very specific hardwood specifications. The species I need are not that hard to find. However, the board selection must be spot on. Specifically, I need 8/4 Sapele 8/4 Hard Maple 8/4 Quartersawn White Oak No big deal. But I need all of these boards to be as close to dead on quartersawn, straight grained with no (as little as possible) grain run out, they must be as absolutely straight as possible with no cup or twist, and they must have been properly kilned to a low <5-7% MC and stable as possible. I do not live near a lumber yard that has the above hardwoods, and I haven't been able to find one within an 8 hour driving distance. So, I'm going to have to rely on someone there, and pay the damn shipping (barf!). Anyone have a suggestion on an online source that fits this bill? has not responded to a single email that I've sent them in over 2 years. I've sent them 6 emails to ask different questions, and they have all gone unanswered. I work in internet technology, so I figured out that they have some "Mailbox is full" issue that is causing my emails to not be received. So, this bad IT, plus the fact that they shipping rates are the highest I've seen on the internet, cause me to give them a thumbs down. Any other ideas?
  13. For anyone out there who is not yet familiar with Torrefaction, it is a process of "baking" wood at temps between 200 and 320 degree Celsius (392 - 608 F), in an oven that has had all oxygen removed. Don't quote me on those temperatures btw... I got them from Wikipedia, and they sound a little too hot based on some other articles I've read. The guitar industry has adopted using torrefied wood because you have basically aged the wood ~100 years in the course of a few hours. You have also increased the price of the damn guitar to the, "your firstborn child" level. I build guitars, and I can't imagine that it must be too hard to bake some wood myself. Here are the variables that I see... ***Disclaimer... If you are one of those, "You kids get off my lawn," finger-waggers that immediately thinks something like this must be impossible to do yourself, or that even if you could, it would be more trouble than it's worth... please just move on. I know it's nuts, and I am pretty sure that it IS more trouble than it's worth, but I am a dreamer, and I like asking questions and talking about out-there things like this with fun, cool, and imaginative folks on the internet. There's no need to wander through and take a dump on this thread just because it caught your eye and sounded a little nutty. Thanks guys! Vessel: For my purposes, I'd only need to "bake" boards that are ~2 in. thick, and around 8" x 20". Since the temperatures are only around 350-400 degrees F, a standard kitchen oven should be up to those dimensions and temp. However, since all the oxygen must be removed, I'd have to have an inner box that is air-tight, and has a valve on it that I could hook up to a pump to remove the oxygen. I know a lot of guys that weld, so I imagine this part isn't as ridiculously hard to make as it might sound. One problem that I would think would still be a problem is... the small amount of water still inside the wood would boil, and I imagine would be re-introducing O2. I guess you'd have to re-pump the air out every so-often until all the water vapor was gone. Temperature: Torrefication is also the exact same process that is used to turn ordinary hardwood into charcoal. I only have a loose idea that the temperatures are between 300 and 400 degrees F. Time: I have read that Torrefied wood is baked for "several/many" hours. I can do several test runs, but other than the color of the wood, and maybe a moisture meter, how would I ever know when it's "done?" The moisture meter would probably measure zero or close-to-zero within the first couple hour or so. If the color also changes immediately, I might just be drying the wood out, and cooking it a little, but not thoroughly "torrefying" it. Flames/Bomb: I know from watching YouTube videos, that when charcoal is made, wood is superheated in an oxygen-poor env. until the volatile oils, resins, etc. ignite into a blue flame and burn off, leaving Charcoal. I do not want to turn a heavy steel box into a high temp pressure cooker, that blows my kitchen apart when the oils in some chunky maple boards ignite. Anybody have any suggestions, experience, or research resources that I might take a look at? For the record, I'd do this in a crappy Craigslist oven out in my yard, but still. ;-)
  14. I have a good friend that is getting married, and I want to make for her a wedding present. I have a good amount of white oak that I'd like to use up. It is in the form of 5" wide hardwood floor planks. They are 3/4" thick but have 1/4" deep grooves routed into the under-side of them. They also have a tongue and groove along each side and each end. So, depending on the project, if I need flat boards, I resaw off 1/4" to get rid of the unattractive grooved surface underneath... and I rip off 1/2" on each side of the boards and ends to get rid of the tongue and groove. All of this wood was free, and it really is gorgeous wood, so I don't mind the work. I'd like to make my friend a picture frame... a really unique, nice, and high-end picture frame from this wood. I am not at all going for a "look... reclaimed wood floors" look. I hate to admit it, however, but I've never actually made a decent picture frame. That is usually Woodworker 101 I'd think, but I just dove right into bigger projects right from the start. So I do not have a built up mental lexicon of picture frame designs. Can any of you guys recommend a design for a decent sized picture frame made from white oak that must be handled as I've described above? I appreciate you guys' help!
  15. But... if you have a 3/4” butt joint, and you only cut away 1/4” to glue in a 1/4” x 1/4” strip of hardwood... you would not be covering the plys in at least one direction... right?
  16. Thanks... i meant... w/ my table saw... I’ll never nail a perfect 45 across 22” that is also perfectly square etc... or am I being paranoid? The wood ain’t cheap.
  17. I have the following tools in my shop that might relate to this project. Grizzly G0690 3 HP Cab. 220V Table Saw Dewalt 7 1/4" Circular saw A long extruded aluminum bubble square that I clamp down as a straight edge, and a 2 ft. long carpenter's square. A DEWALT DW618PK 12-AMP 2-1/4 HP Plunge and Fixed-Base Variable-Speed Router Kit Various round over router bits... 1 1/2" flush cut bit, and 1 3/4" wide straight-edged "dado/rabbit" 1/2" shank bit. That's about it. I have 4 Bessey pipe clamps and some Bessie F clamps. I also have a few of those crappy plastic pump squeeze clamps that don't help much. I found out that my local Home Depot can order for me, Columbia Forrest Product's EuroplyPLUS that is essentially a domestically produced "Baltic Birch" plywood replacement. The 3/4" sheets are 15 plys of 100% birch. I called Columbia Forrest Products and they are sending me a couple of small samples. I am going to take the 12" x 12" samples they send me, try a miter cut and join them into right angles, and then finish apply a finish by also sealing the ply'ed edges with a grain filler (may take a couple of applications). And if it looks good... I'm going to give it a try to build one of my tables with this nice plywood. Does anyone have a resource on how to absolutely perfectly cut a 22" long 45-degree angle?
  18. Hardwood plywood sounds like a great idea! But how am I going to be able to cut a 22-24” long miter that is perfectly 45 degrees. And do it 4 times, and at perfect lengths. And then, w/o a spline or internal floating dominos or something... it will be fragile, and as soon as my 340 lb uncle sits on it... it’s done. right?
  19. I’ve attached a picture of the table i built that everybody wants. It is essentially a box shaped like a VCR w/ a cross brace underneath, and feet/legs that splay out. One sheet of 3/4” ply will make two tables. One sheet of cherry veneer will too. That brings ea. table’s total wood cost to around $150 unfinished, and in painted. I just looked online, and I can buy 20 bd/ft of Cherry hardwood for $152. Problem is... I’ve never cut a dove tail in my life. I have no jointer and no thickness planer.
  20. Hi Guys! Happy Presidents Day Weekend! I have a really important question about wood veneer. I build, almost exclusively, Mid-Century Modern furniture. Besides the incredibly simple clean designs and the lack of ornamentation, one of the main reasons why I love it so much, is because I can build it all using very inexpensive 3/4" plywood from Home Depot @ $45 per full 48' x 96" sheet. The only issue that I run into is that in order to build anything that looks elegant and really finished, I have to build it, and then cover it all in veneer to hide all the ply-edges, screw holes, and less than beautiful birch plywood. The problem that this creates is the sheer cost of the veneer. I've found Cherry to be the best of all worlds as far as price, beauty, and availability. However, a full sheet of the absolute lowest grade (flat cut), with the lowest grade backer (10 mm paper), and no special features... has a widely swinging price range from, $71.88 per sheet, up to $166.78. ($94.90 difference!) I learned most everything I know about veneer from watching Jon Peters on YouTube. He really makes the absolute best videos on veneering and Mid-Century Modern Furniture. Have a look at this awesome video on Building a Modern Bookcase, if you are at all interested in that style, or in veneer. In Jon's videos he uses veneer from Oakwood Veneer in Michigan. So... of course... that's what I did too, and I loved it. It was a joy to work with, and it came out looking better than honestly any piece of furniture I've ever seen. I was not expecting it to turn out so great! However... I could go down to my local hardwood dealer, and for $166.78 (the cost of 1 sheet of veneer) and buy enough 4/4 solid cherry and make the table out of solid cherry. It seems strange to spend almost 4x the amount of veneer that you spent on the wood it is covering. I have been amazingly lucky enough to have 8-10 people come to me to build this one particular coffee table that I build for them. So, I will be batching this job out, and cranking them out. But if you have a look at the links below, you can see that I stand to pay between $359.40 and $833.90 in sheets of veneer alone... (5x full sheets = 10 tables). That's a difference of $474.50, between the cheapest and the most expensive.... just for the veneer! Oakwood Veneer — (1x) 48" x 96" — Cherry Veneer - Rotary 1 Piece Face Premium American Black w/ 10mm paper backer - $146.88 + $19.90 s&h = $166.78 Rockler — (2x) 24" x 96" — Cherry Veneer Rolls with 10 Mil Paper Backing - $109.98 + 13.99 s&h = $123.97 Woodcraft — (1x) 48" x 96" — Cherry Veneer flat cut 4' x 8' - 10 mil - $89.50 + $8.14 s&h = $97.64 This Place: — (1x) 48" x 96" — Paper-Backed Cherry Veneer Flat Cut - $58.50 + $13.38 s&h = $71.88 Can anyone of you offer me some tips or stories from your experiences with veneer about where I can find 'descent' looking veneer for covering birch plywood? Thank you guys for reading this super long post. Hopefully you can see how much this means to me.
  21. I am using 3/4" hardwood plywood. I need to create a box that would require a 22-24 inch long mitered joint so as to not show the plys from the wood. There is THIS thing... from Rockler, but it is $350 and not at all worth it for this application. Then there is THIS thing... from Infinity tools. It is a good bit cheaper. Does anyone have any experience with any of these kinds of tools? Project Constraints: The plys cannot show It must be strong enough so that a 300 lb person can sit on the box 22 x 22" cube Can't use visible splines etc.
  22. I have a ~21 x 23 (483 sq/ft.) garage workshop. It has an 8 ft. ceiling that, believe it or not is insulated. The walls are simply cinder-block that I am currently painting. I thought about trying to put in studs and insulate the walls etc. but that would cost way more than my modest paycheck could cover. If I were an all-day/er’day cabinet maker, carpenter, woodworker... I could justify it. But I’m in the shop 2-3 days a week. I live in Charleston South Carolina... so I’m just a couple of months, it is about to get to be too hot to even breathe in my garage, much less tackle projects for hours. I’ve seen those Mitsubishi air conditioners that have a unit outside and a vent that is installed through the wall inside. But those cost thousands or dollars. Do any of you guys know of any new technology that I am missing that can cool a 500 ft/2 space? To make it more interesting, I’d like to host small art events in my shop as well. So, I’m not just looking for... “It’s 98 outside and 85 in the garage.” I’m looking to cool the place to 74-75 degrees. At least that is the END goal. I’d be fire w/ 80 degrees until I can save enough to do a more serious insulation job.
  23. I have a [ 20' 9" x 22' 9" ] woodworking shop with a concrete floor that has paint spilled all over it and all sorts of crappy stains. I originally thought about just painting it. But I've seen painted concrete floors that end up peeling, , scuffing, or even kind of rubbing off into little crumb balls of paint kind of like when you have dried latex paint on your hands and you and you rub them together until the paint comes off in crumbs. I then thought about one of those rustolleum epoxy coatings with the flakes (or without, whichever). But... again... I've seen and heard really crappy stories about them failing and delaminating, being hard to put down, requiring a ton of prep, and being all in all pretty expensive. With my square footage, I'd have to buy the double kit which is around $350. That's not TOO expensive, but it is if it fails or I screw it up somehow. What do you guys have on your floors? I want a really nice looking shop. I know it's not about how pretty and slick your shop looks that matters, but I know myself very well, and in my experience, if the shop looks tip-top, I will treat it tip-top. I will also want to be out there more. I will invite more people over. It is just overall very important to me that my workspace not be shabby.
  24. I am in the middle of a knock-down-drag-out of a total workshop renovation. I have a garage that is exactly [ 20' 9" x 22' 9" x 95" tall ]. I absolutely love the space. But it has two things that I absolutely hate about it. The ceiling height: The ceiling is just low enough (95") that I can't stand up a full length sheet of plywood (96") Sure, I know. The lighting. Right now, I have two very crappy 2 fixtures with 2 florescent tube light bulbs each. They are only about 4 ft. long, and they hang from the already low ceiling from little chains that the previous home owner rigged up. They are also not connected to any kind of controllable light switch. They each have a shitty power chord that is taped to the ceiling and runs to an equally as shitty power strip-style surge protector that is also... taped to the ceiling. It's a mess. If I go to the shop at night, I have to walk in the dark, tripping all over stuff to get to one of the lights to pull a tiny 3" chain to turn it on. I have been wanting to learn more about lights,, LEDs, and electronics in general. It is my understanding by having watched a million YouTube videos, that LED lights can be purchased in strips, and that they are not expensive, and can be purchased in several color "temperatures" or even variable so you can change their color temperature (at least I think this is true) and even put them on a dimmer to vary the brightness. I'd really love to look into making my own shop lights. I'd like them, if at all possible, to be very disbursed across the entire shop. Rather than have a few lighting fixtures across the ceiling, I'd love to have lighting fixtures with LED lights that go all the way across the shop. Essentially making the whole ceiling one large light panel. Well, I'd still build individual fixture housings; I'm not looking to have bare LED strips going all across my entire shop. That would be brighter than the damn sun, and unnecessary. But... say, four lighting fixtures that are 18 ft. long with 4-5 strips of LEDs, and they all are wired together, so I can flip a switch at the entrance to the shop. Does anyone have any experience with this, or have a solid resource you could point me towards for learning how to do this without electrocuting myself, burning my shop down, or overloading circuits and flipping breakers? I know LEDs get hot. I know that the more of them you use, the more power they pull. But... aside from that... I know diddly about electronics. Thanks guys!