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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. This is... EXACTLY what I am going to do! I will just adjust the panel cutting bit to cut as if the panel were 5/8" from the face, and then use a straight big to cut out a, 1/8th" rabbet (a "rebate", since we have a UK gentleman in our company) into the back of the panel. Then it will protrude the correct amount on the face, and be flush with the rails and stiles on the back. Thanks @SawDustB
  2. When I bought my new house with a 2 car garage that I knew was going to be my woodshop, I invested in a nice 220V 3 HP cabinet table saw from Grizzly. I knew I wanted a router table, so while I was buying the table saw, I noticed that Grizzly also sells a cast-iron router table extension for the saw I was buying. It was a little pricey, but it looked great! I do not have a Rockler or Woodcraft, or any woodworking store within hundreds of miles of me, so I've only had the internet to learn from and some lessons learned the hard way. I used this router table for the first time recently. Actually... it was the first time I've used a router table, period. I've seen them in YouTube videos, and I know that Kreg makes one. But... for the most part, router tables do not seem to have flashy branding and are never really heavily featured in most woodworking videos, so there isn't a lot to learn about them like there is for table saws. So... this this was a nightmare to set up. Attaching it to the table was not that big of a deal. Heavy, but easy. I have a Dewalt 2 1/4 HP router, and mounting that sucker in this router table is a pain in the ass, to say the least. I won't even TRY to explain these weird little clips that you have to slide into T tracks, hook onto the router housing, and tighten by hand from underneath the table. Also... I imagined that all router tables would come with some wort of housing for raising and lowering the router. None! To raise and lower the router, you just have to use the router's own plastic ring twisty action. My Dewalt router has always been an excellent router. Not one moment's trouble. But... mounted upside down... saw dust immediately clogs the twisty channel so you can lower the router, but you cannot raise it back up without completely removing it from the router-housing, shaking and blowing on it like an old Nintendo cartridge, and even then, if you don't blow it out with compressed air, it still doesn't really slide right back in well. But that is a whole different thread. Assembling the fence was no problem really. It has two textured metal handles that are attached to little slot guides that fit into the slots in the router table. When you turn these handles, something expands and it locks the fence in place. HOWEVER... after you run your first workpiece across the router, saw dust seems to fly into the table tracks, and then, no matter how hard you turn those handles to lock them in place, you can push the fence back an inch with two fingers. This makes the fence essentially unusable. I did not have dust collection hooked up, so there was a LOT of sawdust. I don't know if I had been using a dust collection system hooked up to the port in the back of the fence if the fence problem, and the router getting stuck would all just go away. But I doubt it. To your knowledge, is there any way to adjust the slot guides that lock into place so that they lock harder, or more? Or is this just a design flaw with this fence? I posted a picture of the whole rig.
  3. Hey Gang... For a recent Christmas Gift project, I made my sister a kitchen cart (mini-island on wheels) and she wanted me to try to match her existing kitchen cabinets, which are "cove" raised panel and are made from MDF. I had never made a raised-panel door before I love Shaker furniture, so I have certainly seen a lot of them, but never made one. I found "Infinity Tools" on the internet, who makes these three-bit router sets specifically for making raised paneled doors. I picked out the "cove" profile to match my sister's existing profile, and $149 later, they were on their way to me. What I did not do, and what their website does not do well... is make the buyer aware that the thickness of the stock you use will be different for the rails and styles from the actual panel. Her doors are 3/4", so naturally, I just set out to make them out of 3/4" stock. However... as I am setting up the router bits for a trial run, I mentally start to think... "Hmmm... if the panel has a tongue that fits inside of the groove, which means it will be brought "forward' by 1/4" or so... won't the 3/4" thickness of the panel make it protrude be the thickness of the..." I was right. The panels on the doors I ended up making for my sister do protrude out past the thickness of the frame. I have sense gone back and done some additional research, and I now see that you can either A.) use 3/4" stock for the rails, and 5/8" stock for the panels, or B.) Buy the bit sets that have a "back-cutter," which is an additional blade on the panel bit that cuts the tongue out ~1/8" up from flush with the back of the panel. ANYWAY... I do not want to buy a whole new set of bits or even just the one panel bit (w/ the back cutter this time). BUT... my Home Depot does not sell 5/8" MDF, and I don't even know if that i available anywhere. I cannot imagine that I am the first person to have this issue. I do not have a thickness planner, and I don't even know if MDF would do very well being put through one. I've never tried, or even seen it done. I can't see myself trying to re-saw 1/8" off the face of an MDF panel on my table saw. What do people do in this case? Do I really just have to eat the cost and buy a new bit with a back-cutter?
  4. THIS... is 100% exactly what I was looking for!!! Thanks man! Jut as a childish... giggle... did you by any chance see the name of the company that makes that thing?!? Baah ha ha ha!!!
  5. I may pull up the baseboards, route out a little channel in the backside of the baseboards, and bury the cord in the baseboard, but I'm not going into the wall(s).
  6. I don't want to get into, "the wiring in the walls." I know absolutely zero about electricity, and I'm fine with that staying that way. I am essentially just talking about finding a surge protector strip, with a long enough cord, plugging it in to the wall, and then screwing it to the inside of the bookcase box. BUT... I would be making the extension strip myself out of an outlet receptacle box that has one of these screwed in as a faceplate...
  7. I built a very Mid-century Modern "Bookcase." And I will be hanging it on my living room wall, using the french-cleat method, directly under my flatscreen television that is mounted on the wall. So it will be a bookcase that also houses my cable box, modem, and wifi-router. Yay! :-( The bottom of the television will literally only be 3/4" off the top of the bookcase, so I will be drilling a half-circle hole into the back edge of the bookcase, so that I can feed the TV power cable, and the HDMI cord into the bookcase where the boxes will be. I have a really nice 4-outlet extension box that also has two USB sockets. I'd like to mount it to the inside-right side of the bookcase so that everything can plug into it, and I can have a little phone charging station all right there. So... this concludes the woodworking portion of today's post, and segues into the electrical aspects. My house was built in 1950, and the electrical has only had minor upgrades over the years. There is only 1 outlet in the whole living room that is a 3-prong outlet. It is about 7 feet away from the television and where the bookcase "outlet" will be. The outlet extension box that I have, has two three-prong-plugs, and a screw, so you are meant to remove the face plate from an outlet, and screw this thing in over and inside of the existing outlet. I've attached a Sketchup file that I made to illustrate what I need to know. Image 1. is just to show you how far away the outlet it from the Bookcase. Image 2. is to show you how I would buy a blue plastic outlet box, and an outlet, and wire it up inside the Bookcase. (the three cords that seem to be cut in mid-air, are the three power cords from the TV, Router, and Cable Box. I just didn't feel like making the look real) Image 3. The red circle shows where I don't know exactly what I should do. The end of the "Outlet Extension Cable" could just be a male 3-prong-plug. But is there some product out there that would plug into both outlets, screw in, and just have an "extension chord" going over to the bookcase?
  8. There is no additional material. It is a cinder-block wall inside, and a cinder-block wall outside. I watched the electrician drill into one of the blocks when he installed the 220V outlet for my table saw... and it was def. hallow. His pushed and pushed, and then... whooomp... the drill went right in.
  9. That is a perfectly sensible compromise. I even have several 2x4s that will work just fine. I'll even paint them the same color as the wall. BUT... when I think about it... studs are framed with the 2 x 4 positioned with the wall's "skin" affixed to the narrow 1.5" face of the 2x4. If I just bolt 2x4s to a cinderblock wall, I would most likely want to do that flat side against the wall, so I'd only have 1.5" of Southern Yellow Pine, holding the lumber rack. Since the force would essentially be "sheer" force, pulling straight-down, rather than out-and-down... I guess it should work fine. Right?
  10. I am building a lumber rack. I will spare the complicated details of what it will look like, but I can say that it will involve me bolting non-pressure-treated 3 x 3's (wood) to the cinder-bock wall of my two-car-garage workshop. It seems like it should be fine, but I feel like I remember a die hard solid rule to never affix wood directly to anything concrete, as concrete wicks and transports moisture into wood like nailing a sponge to a sponge. Is that only true when considering structural things like concrete foundations to wall joists, or should I find some rubber washers to use as spacers between the wood and the cinder blocs, just to be on the safe side? If it matters, the cinderblocks will be painted with a masonry-grade wall paint. Second question... best method to anchor 5" long lag bolts through 2.25" x 2.25" wood to a standard cinder-block wall? I've never done it.
  11. Are delivery charges not crazy? Baltic Birch is already probably a pretty expensive product. In my experience, shipping of things like this end up costing as much if not more than the product. Also... I only need like 1-2 sheets right now. Maybe more later on. If you are in Charleston, would you be open to going in on an order?
  12. I am looking to buy a couple sheets of 15 ply veneer core, 3/4" (18 mm), Baltic Birch plywood in the highest grade possible, which seems to be B/BB. I did not just suddenly become a plywood snob. I have a project that requires me to prominently display the actual plywood edges as a design feature, and I need the high contrast, thin, all birch, long-grain-then-end-grain plys of baltic birch. However, I've called every "major" lumber yard in the Charleston SC area, and no one carries it. I called: Southern Lumber Co. Berlin G. Meyers Wurth Group No one carries it around here. I found some online that would work through, but the shipping charges cost literally slightly more than the wood itself. I also don't want to make any long trips to Atlanta or Charlotte if I can help it, as the gas would again make this project's costs tip into the "nevermind" zone. Anybody got any tips?
  13. I live in Charleston, SC. There are a good number of lumber yards, and I've bought some hard woods, and I've bought some 4' x 8' sheets of birch ply. But I've never bought the super sexy, all birch, 12-veneer ply, Baltic birch plywood that all the YouTubers talk about. I have a project that will really show off the plywood "end grain", so I want the plys to be super clean looking 3/4" Baltic birch. I'm concerned though, because I do not know a brand name, or anything other than 'Baltic Birch Plywood." Will they ask about Grade A, B, C... etc. I am absolutely not interested in the beauty of the face veneers. I just want the best quality, straightest, and with the least number of voids.
  14. Well I'll be damned. You were right. 100% I tried for... literally, at least an hour to take it apart, change this, change that... and the one thing I did not think was to flip the washer around. If you have the recessed side facing to the right, the nut really almost disappears up into the counter-sink recess. I remember thinking... "What a shit design. The nut almost disappears and you can't get a good grip on it with the wrench." Lo-and-behold the actual issue was the dope with the wrench. Thanks man! And sorry for the cut finger.
  15. This is probably it. And I will probably have to hand in my Doh! card
  16. Wait... so the arbor flange should have the recessed side facing the blade? Page 29 of the owner's manual does not even address which direction anything should be. So now that you all say it, I do not KNOW for sure which direction anything should be. I assumed that the flat side of the arbor flange would go against the blade so that the most possible contact could be made. But now that you say this, we all hollow out the backs of our chisels so that only the smallest amount of steel is touching the work-pieces because it is easier to have the chisel be.
  17. The cutter head has this little 1/2" or so long piece of steel tube that you put on the arbor first, so the order goes... 1/2" piece of steel tube > Cutter head > 1/4" beefy washer that came with the cutter head > the saw's flange washer > saw's big arbor nut. I did not leave any of that on the saw. I also made a zero clearance insert for when I use the cutter head, and when I raised the blade (cutter head) to get the depth right to make the bead molding, it did rise up into the same exact place it did when I made the zero clearance insert several weeks ago. So the cutter head was "in position" correctly. And I was very careful to put it all back into its little case. So I dunno.
  18. Hmmmm... That is the one thing that I did not try. I stood over that damn saw for 2 hours taking the blade off and back on 25 times at least. But I never thought that maybe the nut will go on in either direction, and I am putting it on backwards. I am in the office right now, but will try that asap when I get home.
  19. I just bought a brand new 3 HP Grizzly table saw. It has less than 3 hours of cut time on it, and something is wrong! I took the blade off, and put on this molding cutter head . I used it to make 16 ft of bead molding. Then I took it off, put the blade back on, used the two wrenches to hold the arbor housing still while I tightened the big bolt that holds the blade on. I had the flange washer in place correctly, and facing the correct direction. The Grizzly model has it so that you put the blade directly on the arbor and slide it all the way to the left up against the arbor "flange". Then you slip on a flange washer that is dead flat on one side, which is the side that you have facing the blade, and the other side has a sort of counter-sunk recess that fits the huge nut perfectly. So I hand tightened it, then used the wrenches... no problem. But when I turned the saw on to make my next cut... something was terribly wrong. The arbor spun inside the blade, and the blade did spin, but when I instantly shut the motor off, the blade kept spinning freely for a long time. It was not "on there good." So it was loosely just spinning around the arbor. I had tightened the nut on with the wrench. It went on with just my fingers for at least 20-30 turns with no cross-threading or any resistance at all. When it got too hard to turn with my fingers, I used the wrenches, and I tightened it as hard as any normal person would. But, after taking it all back apart and starting over several times, the blade now just loosely fits, even once I've tightened the nut as much as it will go. I am getting around this problem for the time being by using the huge 1/4 thick washer that you can see in the above cutter-head picture behind the actual cutter head. It came with the cutter head, and you have to use it when using that cutter head. It allows the threads of the nut to still have plenty of threading to sug the blade up to normal tightness. But... WTF?! This table saw is brand new. Anyone else ever have anything like this happen? And what happens now? There is no Grizzly repair man in Charleston SC, What do you do when something goes wrong with a special tool like this? Thanks guys!
  20. I saw a cool trick in a YouTube video recently, where a guy is building a Skiff (boat), and he gets a piece of 3+ in. thick white oak that was cut down just days prior to him using it. So, since it was green as can be, and full of moisture, he put it in a polyethylene back, and using a make-shift steam generator he blasted it with tons of hit steam for literally hours. He said that there is something about steaming green wood that you'd think would dry it out, but really it comes out very dry, and it doesn't move after that, because the steam permanently changes the Lignin. Granted, he was using white oak, and his piece was thicker than 3". But has anyone ever tried steaming wood to dry it out? Odd concept, although I can maybe see how it works. If the wood's internal temperature is at or higher than the boiling point of water, the wood will "steam out" it's own moisture. And maybe since it is all loose and limber because the lignin has been denatured through moist heat, that is what keeps it from checking and splitting at the ends. I wonder if you took a crappy twisted 2x12 from the lumber yard, measured it's MC, bagged it up, steamed the hell out of it for 3 hours, then clamped it all around to a flat table... would it cool down flatter and drier than it started?
  21. My man... if you actually feel frustration because a stranger posted a question on an internet forum... maybe click on to another thread? And I never ignored you or argued with you. My whole family is coming to visit me in my new house, and I do not have a kitchen table. I also have zero money at the moment due to some unforeseen financial problems. I looked at folding tables at Sam's, and the cheapest one is $89. I do not have $89, but what I do have is five 2x12 in my garage. Oh, and a f* Kregg Jig that I'd like throw off a cliff. So, I'm making lemonade over here. I'm not arguing with some old stranger on the internet. I just wanted you to either help me or... just move along.
  22. It's not just this website. Connecting with people on the internet has become just a big ol' ball of numb tactless negative brain-vomit. I have posted questions on this website maybe 10 times or so. Most of the guys on here have a genuinely helpful and positive tone, and even if they think my question or idea is totally off, they explain it to me in a way that they would explain it to another man in real life, with manners, and a common respect. But of the ten questions I've posted on here, 100% of the time, usually within just a few minutes of me posting my question, some curmudgeons grouch fires off a comment that rarely actually addresses a solution, but instead just barks at me about how it was a stupid question to begin with. And if I ask some clarifying question(s), because I really would like to learn, some other hunchback chimes in, also with no positive steps towards my question, but just to tell me that my question is stupid, and that if I don't want you guys' sage advice, then I can just go fire myself into a brick wall. The tone blows. And I know that if we were standing on aisle 10 of a hardware store and I asked the same questions, no one would respond so salty. It's just lame internet courage. Anyway... I had a bad glue up, and a shit day. Just didn't need the extra sand in my ass on top of it.