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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. Nope! 6/4 Alder: $5.99 bd/ft 6/4 Red Oak: $6.99 bd/ft 6/4 Cherry: $7.99 bd/ft 6/4 Southern Yellow Pine: $1.15 bd/ft The table I'm building will cost, in total, $47.50 + tax (55 bd/ft) The same table in the other woods... Alder: $329.45 Red Oak: $384.45 Cherry: $439.45 My table: $47.50 I mean... come on! If I can use SYP to build even passable furniture... you're G* D* right I'm going to look into it a little bit more than just being told "Can't do it." on a website.
  2. Is it always advisable to age wood before milling it? I was wondering... if you know that you want a 3/4" final thickness, would it not make sense to plane a 1.5" thick 2x4 down to around 1" and then age it? Again, thanks for the actual tips.
  3. You might be right. But I don't think so. I imagine that the problems with SYP are really the exact same as with poplar, oak, or any wood. Again, I may be wrong. But I am pretty sure that if you learn how to make SYP not warp, or how to correct twist, or everything there is to know about moisture levels, how to remove and/or deal with knots, planing with or against the grain etc etc... SYP's problems are the same as all other wood, they are just exaggerated to a ridiculous level. Again... I may be wrong. But I'm willing to look into it a LOT more. And I truly appreciate your tips and actual advice, rather than just a grumpy "don't even try it you idiot" flame.
  4. I get that. I totally get that. I come from a long history of learning how to do things. Learned to play the drums, the guitar, to speak German fluently, to cook professionally, to code software in several languages... and I know all about the desire to use materials and tools that make success possible as quickly as possible. With the guitar, it is simply SO much easier to buy an expensive electric guitar that was perfectly crafted from amazing materials and set up at the factory and then again at the store to have perfect playing action. Meanwhile the poor kid down the street's parents bought him a $150 acoustic guitar with a twisted neck, and isn't set up at all, so the strings are tense as hell and 3/4" off the fret board. So he has to learn the same damn thing that the kid with the fancy guitar does, except his fingers are bleeding from the strings, and his sounds terrible, even when he gets it right, so he's not even sure if he's gotten it right. FFwd 20 years... the electric guitar kid is a hedge funder and hasn't touched a guitar in 19 years. The acoustic kid is playing James Taylor songs around a fire on the beach. I am 100% sure that buying nice red oak or even poplar would make glue ups a breeze. If I buy it from a nice hardwood dealer, the wood would most definitely be at an optimal moisture content. And let's be honest, the hardwoods are SO beautiful, and SYP is... butt ass ugly. But I will bet you, that if I get good at using Southern Yellow Pine, I will be able to make Quarter Sawn White oak walk like a dog!
  5. Let the brain bashing begin! I will look into moisture meters. it will be a paycheck or two, before I can afford one. But the big picture is worth it to me. These boards were in my woodshop for 8 months, so I'm hoping that some of the moisture evaporated. Also, since I am only working with the straight grained 1/4-sawn best part of all the boards, I am hopeful that I can get a good enough glue up that won't just warp. I'm also using breadboards on the ends of the table top, So maybe that will help too. I dunno. But it is always hysterical to me how people do not even want you to succeed when you mention things like this.
  6. You and I have some pretty obvious philosophical differences that I imagine transcend woodworking and probably run the gamete. I don't think it's important that we work through those differences here, ha ha ha ha!!! or at all, really. I know that dimensional lumber from a big box store was not grown, harvested, milled, shipped, priced, and labeled with a suggested use being to make Kitchen tables. But I also know that with education, special attention, an understanding of the material, and a great deal of practice, you could build a kitchen table out of ground up blue jeans, road signs, petrified horse apples, and a million other things that weren't intended by their manufacturer for that use. I want to learn how to use Southern Yellow Pine. For example. you said that storing it in my basement for a year would be good. THAT is the kind of thing I want to know. I know that SYP is kiln-dried, probably to a point of being MUCH drier than most hard woods or woods that are air dried. Would storing it in my basement be trying to let it rehydrate some, or dry out further? I am absolutely open to buying some SYP, and stickering it up in my yard to age... but only it it does something to the wood that benefits it. Can you elaborate on what you meant?
  7. My brother bought me a Kregg jig 3 years ago for Christmas, because I was dying to have one. after watching the commercials. The first time I used it was just to join two pieces of 3/4" birch plywood at a butt joint. I thought it was amazing! So excited. That was literally the last time that tool has worked for me. Maybe I am dumb. Maybe I'm using it wrong. I just do not know. I planned this glue up for 2 days. I predrilled the holes making sure to check the depth settings twice on the drill bit and the little jig thing. I clamped the workpiece down to the bench in 3 places, and made sure that the board nor the jig will move when I drill. I drilled the holes. I applied the glue to both faces, and spread it out evenly. Placed the boards together and gave them a little rub to properly seat them. I held the boards flat to the table with all of my weight (350 lbs) and screwed the Kregg screws in (which I also made sure were the recommended length for the board thickness.) The boards magically shifted under all my weight, and without me feeling it, and on top of that, all but one of the screws seated and kept turning at least 1/2 a turn which pretty much voids their effectiveness and clamping pressure as they are now just stripped out. It's not the tools fault; it's mine. I have never worked with southern yellow pine before or dimensional lumber at all for that matter. But I want to use this wood. It bothers me to no end that I can buy a 16ft long 2x12, for $19!!! Even using the actual 1.5 x 11" dimensions, that is 22 board ft. of wood for $19. I bought some 8/4 walnut recently for $10 a board ft. If I had bought a board with the same dimensions of this pine, it would have cost $220. Southern Yellow Pine = $19 Walnut = $220 Poplar = $110 (@ $5 per bd/ft.) So, I am just going to have to get good at using this Southern Yellow Pine. I like the challenge anyway. But... it is hard, because in all the YouTube videos and Fine Woodworking magazines and books, everyone is using Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. It's hard to find things like... how to glue up a table top when using crap wood? For example, it is better to force the wood into a situation where it is being straightened by the clamps, such as if one board is slightly twisted, could you glue up the board forcing the twist out of it, or just clamp it up with it's twist and know that you will have to plane or sand that the top to a thinner thickness to accommodate that twist?
  8. I've been making a kitchen table for myself. It's my largest woodworking project to date. Today was supposed to be my triumphant table-top glue up. As I'm walking out to the woodshop, it dawns on me... I've never glued boards together to make a panel (table top). I decided to only glue up two boards at first, just to see how the process might work, and boy am I glad that I did. The wood I am using is Southern Yellow Pine from Home Depot. I bought 2x12s that I painstakingly sorted through to pick only boards that were straight, not twisted, with as few knots, the straightest grain, and with the heart/pith of the tree running right down the center of each board. I then spent multiple days using a table saw to cut away the pith and any sap wood. I then used a very nice industrial jointer and thickness planer to get the boards all milled down into usable lumber. I now have some very respectable straight-grained quarter-sawn southern yellow pine. Yes... I polished a turd. :-) But now... back to the glue up. I do not have enough clamps by FAR. I have two nice bar clamps that can handle the 36" w panel. And I have one nice Beasley F clamp that can only do 20" or so. I knew I had very flew clamps, so my solution was... Pocket holes. I tried to drill pocket holes every 12" on one board, and then every 12" on the other, offset by 6" so that there would be a screw going from one board to the other every 6 inches. Even though I planned the boards to perfection etc. they have move a little in the 4-5 days since they've been sitting in my shop. So the fit wasn't absolutely perfect between the boards, but with the very slightest of clamping pressure, the boards closed up perfectly with no seam. I held the boards down as flush as possible with one hand and drove the Kreg screws in. When I was finished... it was all screwed up. Even though I thought I had used all my weight to hold the boards flush against the assembly table, there is a slight difference in thickness between each board. Nothing more than 1/32-1/16" and I've known I would have to belt sand the whole thing flat once it's all together. But the boards somehow slipped a lot, and there were spots where one board was 1/8-1/4" higher than the adjacent board. It is as if the Kregg screws wandered and forced the boards totally out of whack. I panicked! I unscrewed all the screws, and reset the boards that I had to bang apart with a rubber mallet to separate the glue that had already started to set (titebond III) I slapped on some more glue, grabbed some of the discarded pitch scraps to use as cauls, and put a bar clamp on each in, about 6" in from the very end, and the F-clamp right in the center. I think I may have saved it, but the experience was so frustrating, that I can see now that I really have to rethink this process. I have $0 to buy new clamps right now. But if I am going to be making large panels like this I know I will need to buy 10 real clamps at least. But considering that I need this table done, yesterday (I have family coming with small children, and I have no place for everyone to eat.) does anyone have any tips on how to do a major glue up with only two bar clamps? One thing that might be worth mentioning is... the boards are all 1 1/8 " thick. I left them 1/8" thick on purpose in case something like this happened. I'd actually be willing to sand down to 7/8" or even 3/4" if that is what is needed to get the table top flat in the end.
  9. Mr. Tom King... I genuinely and emphatically appreciate your post! Now that you've written in all out so clearly, I do think I remember reading that the... old growth, slow growth, heart pine... whatever Pinterest is calling it today, is in fact, a completely different species of tree. Again, since I'm not Dendrologist, maybe SYP and SLLP are the same species but different class or whatever, but they are not the same tree nonetheless. And I understand that now. See, I was thinking that people were trying to romanticize the past by saying that trees from 300-400 years ago grew slower, because they were somehow more... mature, or wild, or just plain were allowed to grow longer, because no one was here to cut them down, so they grew all huge and strong. And that now, we use modern farming techniques, fertilizers, and genetic this or that to grow the same tree, but just a hell of a lot faster. But you are saying that the SLLP simply grows that slow, and that SYP, which grows much faster but into a weaker final lumber, was planted instead, because you could get more wood faster. All that makes perfect sense. And it does make me sad to hear it. I guess, because I live in the South (Charleston, SC) and grew up in Georgia, where pine trees waft in the wind like cat-tails on the bayou, I am just surprised that Pine, which I always thought to be a crappy industrial wood, is SO popular now as a material for fine furniture and high dollar flooring. I can't imagine that Pine is the only tree this is happening to though. Right? Is there the same debate about old oak trees, vs. new oak trees? Here in Charleston, there is this 500 year old Live Oak tree called the "Angel Oak." It's a big tourist draw, because the damn thing sprawls out in all directions bigger than a city block. But if someone hacked that thing down, and planned it into boards, would it's texture or hardness be incredibly different from a Live Oak tree that was transplanted into Mt. Pleasant in the 1970's to give the soccer mom's that feeling of being in the Low Country? Are we going to start hearing about Old Growth walnut, and Artisan Oak, Whole Wheat Maple, Organic Hickory, and Gluten Free Spruce? Again... thanks Tom. I really appreciate the time you spent on that response.
  10. I have brought this up before, and I have still not been pointed to or heard an iron clad convincing study or science-based article of Dendrology. I'm talking about my least favorite 4-words in the language... Old Growth Heart Pine Pease allow me to provide some context... I need to buy a crappy folding table, because I have some family coming, and I do not have a dining room table yet. (I'm saving to buy some nice hard wood). I hate to buy crap like plastic folding tables, so I went out to my shop to see what all I had. I completely forgot that I bought six southern-yellow-pine 2x12's 7-8 months ago to build a temporary work bench. I like to buy 2x12s with the pith running straight down the center of the board, so that I can cut off the 4-5 inches off each side, and toss the center 1-2 inch pith, and I am left with two quarter-sawn southern yellow pine boards. After cutting out the piths today in my shop, I was looking at the boards all lined up, and they were gorgeous. The grain is perfectly 90 degrees on the end-grain, and the grain runs straight up and down the boards like they are from a magazine. And the growth rings are so dense and close together, it literally looks like a deck of cards on it's side, all the way up and down the board. 1-2 knots, but for the most part, they are spot-on clean of knots and defects. I am not a Dendrologist, Tree Surgeon, Forest Ranger, or Botanist. BUT... I would be very excited to see or hear how someone who is one of those noble professions could ever tell that these boards were bought at Home Depot and not some 150 year-old "Old Growth" heart pine. Here is what I think might be the deal... Way back in the day, 150-250 years ago, when the United States was still newly discovered, the old timers had an abundance of surplus as far as trees and lumber were concerned. I am wondering if those old guys just did a similar thing where they just tossed a lot more of the crap wood, and only used the straight grained quarter-sawn or rift-sawn stuff. It would make perfect sense to me that if you just settled in a bountiful forrest, why WOULDN'T you set up your processes around only keeping with best stuff? What do you guys think? And please, be as scientific as possible with as many actual references to documentation. Because, I find that most people immediately start talking about some barn wood that they have from their grandpa's barn, and how rock-hard it is etc etc. But I just don't buy it based on that kind of nostalgia. There is simply way too much desire-to-have-it-be-true in stories like that.
  11. I live in Charleston SC. Oysters are literally everywhere. The concrete and asphalt is made with oyster shells. Every weekend involved an oyster roast. There are cocktails centered around raw oysters, hundreds of restaurants.... and... I f*****g hate oysters. It's like living in France, but you hate cheese. I have to keep that shit to myself. Whenever I meet someone that goes on and on about how he/she loves raw oysters, I always think, "No you don't! I get that you can eat it without being repulsed... but there is NO WAY that you actually like the mouthfeel of a raw oyster."
  12. Ultimately, I think you are right. I should just make them out of cheap pine or even free pallet wood, hell everyone likes that kinda crap anyway... and just give them away. And if I were a soap maker, I would do exactly that. The problem is... I have a soapmaker that wants to pay me for high end soap trays. So, I'm treating this as a learning experience. I'm sure that 10 years from now, I will need to come up with something that involves a wet environment and soap, and I will be like "Ah ha!!! This is what I did back when I made soap trays."
  13. Damn man! I think that's perfect. It's a damn shame that it costs $1 per sheet, + $6 in shipping. I'm sure that copper sheets are even more expensive though. Hmmm.... Thanks man. I never even thought about looking for model type stuff.
  14. I've also seen videos, so I thought, where someone uses a scroll saw in the center of a thick hardwood board to cut the profile of the curves, then take a sheet of softer metal like copper, and roughly bend it into that shape, shove it through the wooden board like a "die", and grab the end with some pliers and just pull the damn metal through the board thus bending the entire length of the metal into that shape. Then cross cut off the lengths that you need. I just can't find that video anymore, so I may have made it up.
  15. Believe it or not... I have access to a 1 ton arbor press (nothing to write home about). But I also have access to a 20 ton hydraulic press. So pressure isn't a problem. Snapping a wooden form... might be.
  16. I agree that Copper would be better. It's softer. Looks cooler. And if will patina but not rust. I don't know how copper will do in the presence of soap. Either way, whether I use copper of galvanized metal flashing, I had planned on "sealing" it with a dead flat lacquer by H. Behlen. So... I am not overly concerned with rust. Although... it may be trading one problem (wet wood) for another (wet metal). I just know that I do not want to use plastic of Vinyl.
  17. I'm still making soap trays! Ha ha ha! I've decided that they just can't be made out of wood, because there really isn't a finish that can handle being wet all the time, and having a bar of soap (oil's enemy) sitting on it. Plus rinsing under hot water all the time... so wax, or butcher block oil... nothing will work. So... I've decided to make a wooden base that will sit up on silicon rubber feet. I will finish the base with a marine varnish. But where the soap actually sits I'd like to make out of galvanized metal flashing, like you can buy at Home Creepo for roofing. But I'd like to bend the flashing into a specific shape. Can anyone help me think of a way to bend the flashing into this shape?
  18. I am making soap trays. You know, like little blocks with deep grooves that you set your bar of soap on so that it can dry and not get all gummy. I made a "test batch" of 15, and I finished them with a homemade varnish that I make. It's just 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 boiled lin. oil. and 1/3 Minwax oil-based poly (satin). My thought process was, the BLO would make the grain "pop" some, and the amber color of the BLO and oil-based poly would give it a nice hue without having to stain. And the Poly would seal them so that they can be wet, which they will be often. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: PROBLEMS: By adding the 1/3 mineral spirits, the finish becomes essentially a wipe-on varnish. So it literally takes around 3 coats before it starts to really 'build' into a protective layer and not just soak into the wood and flash off. I can't spend 6-7 days on a varnish job of stupid little soap trays. Once the varnish did build enough to form a layer over the wood, and not just soak in, when this finish cures, it's very... sticky feeling. It's not at all a nice finish to touch. It feels very plastic'y and if you stack them up, they want to kind of stick to each other kinda almost like they've been painted with a thick coat of latex paint. At first I thought that they'd just need to reeeally cure because the BLO is slower drying than the poly. But even after 7 days since my last coat, they are just as sticky as they were 7 days ago. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: So... I am looking for a new finish that will be... Water-proof, since these things will be rinsed under water and have a wet piece of soap constantly on them. Quick. I don't want to invest the time in these little things of days and days of building a finish. Natural looking. I thought I could maybe just use some kind of Bee's Wax finish. But, if they are rinsed under hot water, won't that just melt the wax, and strip it away instantly? Anyone ever use one of those "salad bowl" finishes? What are they like?
  19. I use Acetone as a very powerful brush cleaner after an oil-based Alkyd paint job. I wash the brush in Acetone, then paint thinner. I've also seen Acetone absolutely melt styrofoam. But I'm with you. I doubt it would do anything to Corian.
  20. What does [ 8in ^3 ] mean, and what is an acetone vapor bath? Sounds like something you take after you leave Amsterdam.
  21. Someone said something earlier about using Acetone fumes to smooth plastic edges on 3D printed things. I wonder if, whatever "acetone fumes" are, could also chemically "sand" Corian. Considering I've never heard of Corian or acetone fumes, I feel like this might be a dumbass post to this thread. Lol!
  22. I love the idea of making a reverse profile sanding block. The problem is... even though I did sand the whole board before I cross cut it, once i used the chop saw, there was some tear-out on almost each one. Then when I used the router to round over the two new edges created from the cross cut, I got more tear out on each one. So, I ended up having to sand before and after the cross-cutting and routing steps. I imagine I could get a better/sharper blade for my miter saw as it still has the factory DeWalt blade. I could make a zero clearance insert for the miter saw. And I could run a strip of painters' tape down the back side of the whole board before cross-cutting. AND... as everyone suggested... I could use a less terrible wood than pine.