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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. I've never used resin for anything other than repairing the occasional crack in some wood. But I do believe that resin is significantly more expensive than wood.
  2. If I'm really honest with myself, I don't think the species of wood is the real problem. My problem is I always think I have to buy it at the Home Depot. There are at least 3 lumber yards in Charleston SC (where I live), and probably a half dozen more in the 50 mile radius. But for some reason, I always think in terms of what I can buy at Home Depot. And I'll be honest with you about why. When I go to a lumber yard, I feel like I am pissing everyone off, just by being there. I know it's the same old story that everyone else says. But, my local lumber yard is really just that... a huge f****** yard about the size of a football field with three story high shelves of 2 x 4s, and dimensional lumber for building houses. To get to the hard wood, you have to press this red knob that sounds off this horrifically loud buzzer alarm to signals one of these mouth-breathers to slowly slouch over to me. Then when I say I'd like to buy some X/4 walnut, without even looking at me or grunting, he just keeps on walking with the idea that I'll figure it out and follow him. We then walk through what could only be categorized as a hard-hat zone to get to this huge metal hanger like building where random width and length rough cut hardwood is stacked horizontally with no real way to go through it other than just start picking up boards. Meanwhile the mouth breather is standing behind me. I'm not sure what he wants, or if he has to stand there and watch me... or what? So, I end up just choosing a board quickly and carrying this 15 ft. long 50 lb board back to the place where we started so that they can measure it and I can pay for it. Per board ft. the lumber yard is hands down a better deal. I mean, so much better than Home Depot. But... damn. Also... 100% of all the local lumber yards close at 5:00 M-F, and have no Sat. or Sun. hours. So I have to take off work or haul ass on my lunch break to barely make it. I look at the Woodworkers Source website pretty much everyday, and fantasize about how awesome it would be to have access to that wood without having to pay the shipping. Sorry about the rant. I'm mostly just disappointed in myself that I've become so spoiled by convenience that a stupid trip to the lumber yard gives me such diarrhea.
  3. Poplar is just so damn ugly. Eeeeeeevery once in a while I see a poplar board that has some interesting figure or is at least bright white with no figure. But in general, poplar looks like a mammoth piece of sliced lemongrass.
  4. I've never seen a 3D printer that could print anything of this size in anything other than a snail's pace. I am in no way a 3D printer specialist, but I have seen my fair share of 3D printed things, and they are always as rough as a cheese grater, and look... well... 3D printed.
  5. On etsy, there are around a dozen or so wooden soap trays very much like mine, and they are selling for $6, pretty much across the board. This means that I really would have to reduce the costs if I want to earn anything off a project like this. I think that making a larger run at a time would cut costs per unit considerably. I imagine if it takes 20 minutes to make 15. I could probably make 100 in 45 minutes. Then if I figure out how to get these things blemish free and silky smooth at a good clip... then I'd feel better about the P & L on this project and others like it.
  6. I do like the idea of using a propane torch. That's an excellent idea. I would not want to go full on Sho Shogi Ban, and blackening these things. But a propane torch would definitely singe the little fuzzies off, and then if I hit em with the sand mop thing... I bet they'd look pretty good. To your point wdwerker... I'd love to make them out of better wood, like red or while oak. But then we are really getting into budget land. If this were a coat rack or something that I felt was more "important" than a soap tray, then I'd opt for the red oak. But, for a soap tray that no one is going to pay more than a couple bucks for, upgrading from pine would be cost prohibitive. Don't you guys think? Or am I selling myself short?
  7. You know... I think I must be a little weird. I like trying to figure out the fastest, and most economically sound way to do anything. Even when I make a lasagna for friends, I find myself doing the math on a per/person basis to see how much the meal cost vs. if I were working in a restaurant. It's just part of the fun for me. Even though most of the time I come to realize that I'd have to sell the soap trays for $15 each to actually make them worth my while... which of course no one would pay... it is still fun for me.
  8. SOLD!!! I watched the video, and I can imagine that is exactly the thing I was looking for. Since it sounds like you've used one before, can you tell me how quickly they wear out? With an initial investment of $50 and a $20 per refill price tag, if they wear out really quickly, then the cost/time-savings ratio might wash out. Either way, I'd still rather use these than hand sand 100 of these damn things. Ugh!
  9. I have a 'client' that has commissioned me to make soap trays for her. She has started a little soap making company, and she wants to start a whole little line of related soap'etries. I came up with what I think is a pretty cool little design. It's super easy to do, and very inexpensive. However... the time it takes to do it right is proving to be a killer. If I were just making one or two for myself, then I would not even be asking about this. But since she is asking me for 40+ at a time, I need to call in some help on this one. I'll paste a picture of what I'm talking about in this post. Essentially I just take a 6 ft. long piece of 1 x 4 (.75" x 3.5") of that "Select Pine" you see at Home Creepo. I pass it over my table saw outfitted with a Sears Craftsman Molding Cutter Head outfitted with bead molding dies. Then I cut a shallow kerf down the center with a regular blade at 90 deg., move the fence just a tiny bit to create a wider kerf, and run it through again. Then I run a router with a 1/4" round over along the entire length of the board. I then set up a stop block on my miter saw, and cross-cut off each piece. I then run the freshly cross-cut edge over the same 1/4" round-over bit on a router table. Done! But... The little beads are not perfect. They are 99% perfect. The blades are brand new and super sharp, but no matter what, pine just sucks and there are some little fuzzies, and some tear out deep in those grooves. So, hand sanding takes a 20 min. project and turns it into a 2 hour project. The person that ordered these is a friend of the family, so I do not mind doing this for her. However, she insists that I tell her how much it costs me to make these. It only "costs" me about $9 in wood to make 15 pieces. But in time... let's look at that. If I wanted to make $50,000 a year as a woodworker, how does that break down? There are 260 actual workdays in a year in the US (taking away weekends etc.) For an 8 hour day, that would make my day rate be $192.31 per day. For an 8 hour day, that's $24.02 per hour. For a major project like making kitchen cabinets, this isn't such a big deal. But for a little knick-knack project like this, I'd have to charge $10 (wood) + $3 (finishing w/ 3 coats of wipe on Poly) + $60.05 (labor) + $20 (postage) = $93 for 15 soap trays. That's $6.20 per soap tray. If I didn't have to hand sand each piece, then the break down would be... $10 (wood) + $3 (finishing w/ 3 coats of wipe on Poly) + $16 (labor) + $20 (postage) = $49 for 15 soap trays. That's $3.27 per soap tray. $6.20 ea. if hand sanded $3.27 ea. if not hand sanded Is there a way to smooth out these bead molding ridges with a power tool? Something kind of like a wire brush for a drill or angle grinder, but not as rough as metal or plastic bristles? Something with enough flex to get into the groves?
  10. Since this thread has gone from A-Z, might as well as here... Can anyone tell me what tool this is in this video at 0:54 in? It looks like a massive flush cut router attachment. But I'm not sure.
  11. Wait a minute!!! <record scratches> If I leave a thin strip of wood in the middle and saw it out by hand, that will leave a ridge in the middle of the board. That would mean I'd need a... drum sander!!! ERIC!!!! GET HIM!!!!
  12. It has a riving knife, because it moves up and own along with the blade carriage.
  13. Going back to the "No re-sawing on a table saw" conversation... There are at least a couple of instances that I can think of where one would need to turn a board up on it's edge, and run the width side along the fence. When you cut a rabbit on the table saw Making raised panels for cab. doors Using a molding cutter wheel to cut a cove profile along the edge of a board (think: German shiplap) Now, I know there are alternative ways to do at least 2 of these tasks. But for the sake of this conversation, let's please assume that I do not have a band saw, router table, or even a router for that matter. So, assuming that I absolutely MUST use a table saw to make these cuts... what can someone do to make running taller narrow boards over a table saw?
  14. Yes. It does. What is "QS/RS material"? I love acronyms.
  15. I doubt it. I've had loads of 3/"4" thick, 4" wide white oak boards stacked in a garage for over 2 years now, and they are as flat as pancakes still. I think that wood deforms and warps when it is cut and is drying, and I know that it can/will deform some if you cut it again, if you release some stored tension in the wood. But if this board warmps, cups, twists, or does anything other than stay dead flat, I will be very surprised. It's not impossible. But even if it does, I don't think it will cup in a way that 3-4 passes with my low-angle jack plane can't even out. In other words, I'm not worried about it. But... I do plan to make any subsequent ZCI's out of 1/2" ply.
  16. Yeah... talking about boards' widths, lengths, thickness, et cetera can so easily get confusing. I am so glad to have YouTube and good books that actually use the correct terms. I work for a software technology company, so I am used to and love standardized terms for things. It is so much easier to talk about cross-cuts, rip-cuts, and re-sawing than it is to use terms like "Slicing, cutting length-wise, and chopping" for example.
  17. Nah... Sorry my man, but a cross cut would be if you took the 3/4" board that is 3" wide, and let's say 24" long... and you turned the board perpendicular to the saw blade, and ran it across the blade "across the grain." That's a cross-cut.
  18. If you are taking a 3/4" s4s board that is 3" wide, and laying it flat on a table saw, and ripping the board lengthwise, then that is not re-sawing. If you are taking the same board, and flipping it up so that the 3/4" edge is on the table saw face, and the 3" wide side is riding along the fence, and you are slicing the board into "veneers"... that is re-sawing. Basically, like Eric said, if the edge of the board that is touching the table is narrower than the dimension of the edge that is riding along the fence... then that is re-sawing, and dangerous on a table saw.
  19. ***UPDATE*** Zero Clearance Insert complete!!! I went to Home Creepo and bought some set screws. I did break with what some of you guys said, and I bought a $6 piece of 1/2" red oak. I know you guys said that plywood makes a better ZCI, and I imagine you are right. But, it was right there, and easy to grab and... cheaper... and well, I just grabbed it. When I got home, I traced he existing insert onto the board. I clamped it to my bench, and cut it out with my jig saw. I have to say... there is nothing... and I mean nothing... more dangerous feeling in your hand than a high power jig saw cutting hard wood when the base isn't always able to ride along a complete flat surface. Jesus! I don't have a nice edge sander, so I had to clamp my belt sander to my bench upside down. I clamped the shit out of it and tried to wiggle it loose to make sure it's solidly clamped before I turned it on. Then I was able to fine tune the edges and fit it into the table saw throat. I then drilled a 1" diameter finger hole so that I could get the damn thing out once I set it in place. I then took four little pieces of painters tape, and put a dot in the center of each, and placed those pieces of tape, sticky-side up, on the four "feet" of the table saw throat. When it back up, I had my four places to drill for the set screws. Drilled em out (too narrow at first, and had to re-drill with the next size up drill bit) but then the set screwss went in snug and sweet like they came from a factory that way. I set it in place, and used an allen wrench and a straight edge to set it up perfectly. I set the fence over the far right side of the insert to hold it down, and I clamped a 3/4" board to the fence just to hold it down more and to be safe. Turned on the table saw, and raised the blade. Bammm!!! ZCI. It probably sounds like nothing to you guys. But it's a big deal to me. Feels good to talk talk talk about something, and then go get it done! Thanks guys! I love this forum!
  20. I had a kickback once. I don't even know how it happened. I just know I was lucky enough to be standing off to the left enough that when this 1/2" strip of 3/4" plywood came shooting back, it missed by love handle by mm's. I had to pry the damn thing out of the wall behind me where it has gone into the sheetrock and would have kept going if it hadn't hit the bricks on the other side and split into a million pieces.
  21. Alright Eric... you A**hole!!! Drum Sander... You were right! Band Saw... You were right! No re-sawing on a Table Saw... You were right! No need for threaded inserts... You were right! And I just watched the promo videos for the GrrRipper... You were right! I just ordered one on Amazon. Thanks Bud!!!
  22. Okay... I get it about the set screws. In my mind, when I asked that questions, I was thinking that I'd be screwing the set screws in every time I use the insert, but really, I will probably set them once, and never have to set them again unless humidity or something changes something. So, threaded inserts are off the table (get it?!?) I also don't think a ZCI is a throwaway part, but it is, according to Webster, "sacrificial," in that you won't be using that piece of wood for anything else after that.
  23. I am looking into making a killer ZCI. I would like to talk more about the hex screws. I live nowhere near a Rockler or woodworking shop, and the mouth-breathers that work at Home Depot around here would certainly not be able to answer my questions. Basically, if I get a piece of 1/2" ply, like everyone seems to suggest... I would like to pick up some threaded inserts so that I can drill 4 holes for hex screw "feet" to go, so that I can flatten the insert with the table. I have seen "threaded inserts" in YouTube videos, but I've never bought them, so I don't know what to buy exactly. When it comes to buying threaded inserts, does ' 1/4" threaded insert ' mean that the length of the insert is 1/4", or does that mean the diameter of the insert's opening is 1/4"? For a 1/2" sheet of ply, keeping in mind that the hex screws must be flush or below the surface of the plywood, what length insert should one buy? And finally... where can I find these tiny threaded inserts and matching hex screws? Michael
  24. Ha ha ha... I thought that this thread was BLOWING UP because everyone started reading about my zero clearance insert questions. And now I just see that Eric's haterish ways just started a Steve Ramsey blah'o'thon.