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Everything posted by Dolmetscher007

  1. Wow... there are a lot of different opinions. I can say... Water/moisture should not be an issue. I will be priming and painting these cabinet doors. I do not want to get into building frame and panel doors like shaker style etc. I just want to keep it super simple. I want to just have each cabinet door be a 3/4" piece of "sheet good" (MDF or Plywood), and have a very simple molding inset 2" or so on the face of the doors. So the doors will literally just be a flat rectangle with a 2" smaller decorative rectangle glued to the face with mitered corners. I am thinking that I will use MDF for the doors. It paints well. It won't warp. I don't have to edge band it like plywood. And if I use CA glue to reinforce the screw holes, I doubt it will ever completely fail, i.e. I won't rip a door off the hinges . Yup! I'm going with MDF. Thanks guys!
  2. I want to build my own kitchen cabinets. I plan to use 3/4" birch plywood for the cabinet carcasses. The doors will just be 3/4" panels with just a thin piece of molding mitered into a rectangle a few inches inset from the edge. I'm going to paint the cabinets so wood grain is not important. My question is about what material to use for the doors. I know the MDF does not have the tendency to warp, bow, or cup unless it is allowed to soak up water. Plywood is designed to no warp, but we all know that it can/does. I plan to use hidden "European" style hinges, and I know that they will screw in tight to the plywood carcass, but I've always been told that MDF can't hold a screw worth a damn. I don't want to build 20 MDF doors only to find that the screws wriggle loose and the doors sag or come off in your hand. But I also don't want to use Plywood that can hold a screw well, but they all warp or distort over time. What do you guys all think?
  3. I did it guys! Well... finger's crossed that all the paperwork and crap goes through. But I made an offer on a house that the seller has accepted and the house is now "under contract." It has a HUGE two car garage and a carport. i.e. I now have a two car garage sized woodworking shop! I am so excited I can barely sit here. I specifically bought this house because it needs some work. It doesn't need anything major... just lipstick and rouge. The first thing that needs to be done is that I need to refinish the hardwood floors. I've never done that, so I was wondering if anyone here has pro level experience with that? There is one 12" x 12" place that needs some TLC in that one board has 1/8" gaps around it and it a little worn on the edges. It is right in the highest traffic zone of the floor., I will need to fill the cracks etc. The wood appears to be 1.5"-2" oak and are original to the house (built in 1950). I have already watched several YouTube videos, so I don't think I will need a lot of help with technique. I just do not know which products to choose from. For some reason, when it comes to finishes, I feel like if you can buy it at Home Depot, it isn't a very good product. That may just be pretentious thoughts that I got from watching too much YouTube. I dunno. I've used Minwax Oil-based Poly for coffee tables etc, and to be honest, I thought it did a great job. Everyone told me that Arm-R-Seal and the Gel Topcoats by General finishes were aces. So I tried them, and did not like how they went on. They seemed to start curing so quickly that I had a hard time not making a mistake. My point is, I am not experienced enough to know what is the absolute best poly to use on a hardwood floor. A website said that Bona Woodline Poly is the best. Everyone agree? Does anyone have a solid resource for asking about hardwood floor products? Let the games begin! :-)
  4. I need to buy a new large chisel that I can use to chisel out very large areas for building a work bench. I own a smaller 1/2" Veritas PM-V11 chisel that I love, but I don't want to just buy everything from Veritas. I already have a lot of their kit. Can anyone recommend a great 1"+ chisel that has great metal, but also a strong enough handle to take a lot of mallet smacks while chopping out 4" half-lap dovetails and dados for an English style work bench?
  5. My father worked for a major US railroad for 40 years until he retired. He told me that even the railroads are no longer using wooden ties, and are replacing them with composite and cement ties. It is such a pity that railroads have used wood for the past 200 years. These ties are not made from fast growing woods like Pine etc. they are made from nice oak hardwood. Such a pity there isn't some kind of chemical way to "neutralize" creasote. You know how you can use a base to neutralize an acid... I wish there were some kind of chemical treatment that would un-awful the creasote so that we could all have access to these awesome huge chunks of Oak. But I'm sure even if this were possible, it would cost more than it's worth. Anyway... thanks for all the comments guys!
  6. My Veritas low angle Jack plane came in the mail yesterday. My first hand plane ever. I am so pumped!!! I will be building my first work bench soon, and I need to decide on which Vice to buy. Here is roughly the exact bench I want to build. It has no tail or leg vice. It just has the one large wooden vice with suede on the inside. The only thing is... the vice shown in the picture is 100% wooden. The vice jaw(s) is wooden, the handle it wooden, and it even has a huge wooden screw that goes through the apron into a huge wooden "nut." To keep the jaw running true and not rack to one side, it has a massive square wooden "dowel" that slides in and out of a square hole, and it kept running true by wooden adjusters... all of which I'd have to build myself. I don't want to get into all that. I'm brand new to hand tools, and I feel like all of that would be a huge trick to get right, and even then, it would probably swell and contract over time and be a huge headache. I know nothing about vices, though. I know Veritas, because I've spent hours on their website reading all about all their tools. And I know Lie-Nielsen for the same reason, but I don't want to JUST buy Veritas evertything, and Lie-Nielsen doesn't seem to specialize in vices at all. Is there a company that make "the vice?" The industry standard?
  7. I know.. I know...! My father worked for the railroad for 40 years. I've always known that railroad cross-ties are some nasty things due to the chemicals they use to weather-proof them. Any saw that you use to cut them will corrode, and if you use them in your yard or garden, they leach that poison into the soil, and should not be used at all. BUT... could they not be used in SOME way? I have an idea for a shuffle board table, and some repurposed railroad cross ties would make some awesome looking legs. I'd have to wear a respirator, work outdoors, long sleeves, and I'd have to toss the saw blade... but... let's say... hypothetically... if I were to get the wood sawn down and into my dimensions, is there not some kind of sealant, varnish, or something that I could use to make it so that they are at least usable indoors?
  8. I bought at least 50 linear feet of 3/4" thick x 4" wide (varied lengths) of solid hardwood white oak flooring cut-offs on Craigslist last year. Each piece is at least 14" long; most of them are closer to 2 1/2 - 3 ft. long. It is really nice looking knot free wood. All flat sawn, of course. It all has tongue and groove edges, since it's flooring, and it also has 4-5 deep grooves carved out along the entire length on one side of the boards. I assume that these grooves work for traction and/or to hold adhesive when the floor boards are nailed in place. My question to you guys is... I have these two big piles of this pretty wood, but I don't know what I should do with it. I can obviously keep it lying around for use here and there... but I'd really appreciate any suggestions for a cohesive project. I will most likely have to saw off the T&G edges which will make them more like 3.25" wide, and unless I turn the groved sides in on each other and glue two boards together to make a 1.5" thick board, I would have to plane off 1/4" to get rid of the grooves... which would make each prepped board only .5" thick. Any ideas guys?
  9. I am in a very interesting and exciting place at the moment with regards to woodworking. At the moment, I really only own a Dewalt circular saw, and a Dewalt chop saw. I've been using my buddy's workshop, where he has a nice Delta table saw, drill press, and all that jazz. I am in the process of house hunting, and a garage/workshop is #1 priority for me. My mind has been twirling with visions of designing a dust collection system, buying my own first real table saw, getting a drill press, slot mortiser, planer, jointer... oh man...! But, literally, all of the sudden, I am just so turned off by the idea of all that. I'd end up sinking $10,000 into a workshop full of loud, dangerous, bulky, and power hungry machines. Since I joined this site, I've been watching loads of Paul Sellers, Richard McGuire (The English Woodworker), David Barron, George Nakashima, Chosuke Miyahira (Miya Shoji), and all the tons of woodworkers there are on YouTube that just use chisels and hand saws. Guys... I gotta tell ya, I am in love! Suddenly a $5K table saw sounds like a huge annoying space hog. I do not plan to sell pretty much a single damn thing, so I don't have to worry about speed or using a table saw to buzz out 100 identical table legs. I will literally only ever be making 4 at a time. I'd rather take the $10K for a band saw, table saw etc... and buy a low-angled jack plane, a smoothing plane, a block plane, a rabbit plane, a set of nice chisels, a cross-cut, rip, and carcass saws, and spend the remaining $8K on some amazing 1/4 sawn white oak, some nice walnut, maple, and mahogany. Maybe even some of the goofy looking Zebra wood everyone wants now. I do just have some questions though. One of my dreams is to make an acoustic guitar from rough sawn boards. How would someone re-saw an 8" wide, 2" thick, 20" long board of sitka spruce to make a book-matched board that is about 1/16-1/8" thick? I've seen foot driven lathes, and even some water driven Shaker table saws, but I've never seen a hand-worker's replacement for a band saw for re-sawing. Anyone got an idea?
  10. I think I have a cool idea. It's a total hail mary, but it may just work. There is a company called Roarockit that makes a product called the, "Thin Air Press System." It is literally nothing more than a plastic bag with one of those wine-saver rubber cork-valves in the center. You glue up your veneers, place them on the mold you want them to mold to, stick the whole thing in the bag, seal the bag with this double sided tape stuff, and suck the air out, literally with one of those pump-action wine saver things that you can buy at the grocery store. I am going to go to Wal*Mart, buy a clear plastic shower curtain liner for $9, come home and use aluminum foil and an iron to crimp and melt the thing into a "bag." I'll then work on figuring out a way to get one of those little rubber nipple valve-corks to fit into the top of the bag air tight. Then I am going to make a mold of something, glue up some scrap veneers, and see if I can suck the air out hard enough to mold the veneers into the shape. If it works, that will be amazing. Anyone care to get a bet pool going?
  11. Thanks Llama... I agree with you completely about the whole "exotic wood" argument. I don't think that fancy AAAA figured wood makes a better guitar. In fact, I would argue that, due to inconsistencies and internal weaknesses, highly figured wood makes a worse guitar. My plan was to use just standard furniture-grade woods for the back, sides, and all the top plys, except for the outer-most top ply, to make the thing purdy! ;-) I definitely do not want to make a carved top. I want to learn to laminate for sure.
  12. I need to make a laminated "arched" guitar top. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. All guitar makers do it slightly differently. For the most part, it is just 3-4 sheets of 1/8" plys that they glue up, place over a mold, and use some pressure or heat activated glue and press the plys over the mold. The DIY version is to use a vacuum press bag. The problem with that, so I've heard, is that it only comes out good less than 50% of the time. The pressure or heat press systems that the pros use always work, but the press machines are terribly expensive. The vacuum bags are much less expensive, but you will blow through big bucks in ruined wood; keep in mind, guitar wood is usually expensive and beautiful. Not to mention, the days wasted waiting for glues to dry. Anyone got an outside the box idea?
  13. I'm afraid I've made a mistake and don't know if I can back out. I want a satin finish on this bookcase that I built, but I used Arm-R-Seal Semi-Gloss. The reason I did this is because on a previous piece I used Minwax Fast Dry Poly Semi-Gloss on a previous piece, and when I was finished, I used Behelen's Wool Lube and #0000 steel wool to run the finish out to a beautiful satin sheen. So, it took the semi-gloss, and buffed down to a satin. Then I read all about how Arm-R-Seal is the bee's knees. It is supposed to be bigger, better, faster, more than the Minwax, which everyone seems to kind of poo poo as Home Depot mass market crap. So, I thought I'd give it a try. Thinking it would do the same thing, so I bought the semi-gloss and used it to finish another piece. It does NOT buff down to a satin sheen. The wool lube and the #0000 steel wool seems to have buffed it to an almost mirror like shine. I waxed it, and that just made it even glossier. I do not like the 1970's shiny coffee table look for this new bookcase. However, I've already slapped on a thin thin thin coat of the Arm-R-Seal semi-gloss. I wiped it on the dry wood, and a few seconds later, I wiped it right off again. So, now... 2 days later the wood still looks essentially dry. Question 1: If I switch from Semi-gloss to Satin... do you guys think I will have a problem? Question 2: Why did Minwax semi-gloss so easily buff down to a satin, while Arm-R-Seal is shiny as a piece of glass? Question 3: If I kept rubbing with steel wool (or something else) would I eventually be able to get Semi-Gloss arm-r-seal to a satin, or is that just a fools errand?
  14. I know that some oil blends like "Danish Oil" have an oil (tung/linseed/walnut) a solvent (min. spirits) and polyurethane all mixed together. So, I imagine the answer is yes. But I have put a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and min. spirits on a piece of cherry. I was going to put on a shellac sand sealer just to be safe, but I'd really prefer not to. Can I just go straight wipe on poly over linseed oil? Or will it delaminate?
  15. I just finished making a very mid-century modern shelf. It is literally just a 52" long x 13" tall x 13" deep box that I will be hanging on my wall using a huge french cleat. The exterior of the bookshelf is veneered with super nice cherry. It has a mahogany edge to hide the plywood "end grain," and the interior is painted using Benjamin Moor's Satin oil-based paint. It looks great! It is by far the most dead on square, and "perfect" piece I've made to date. I've already started finishing it. I've painted the inside with 1-2-3 Bullseye primer, and I mixed up a batch of 50/50 boiled lindseed oil and mineral spirits that I rubbed on the cherry and mahogany. I plan to put on a coat of Bullseye shellac clear dewaxed sanding sealer, then clear coat the exterior. Here is where my plans get a little fuzzy for me. In the past, I always used just your regular old Minwax fast-dry polyurethane; uncut, straight from the can using a china bristle brush. I got brush strokes, drips, and all the other problems. So, thinking it was the product and not me (It can't be me... right?) I started looking for other alternatives. So I found General Finishes Arm R Seal. I used it on a night stand with the exact same cherry veneer/mahogany banding/white painted interior. It is incredibly thin, so I treated it like a wipe-on poly. I bunched up a small rag into a larger rang, and twisted it to make a little pad, and wiped on the ArmRSeal. It was weird. Even through it was as thin as water, it did not level out like I thought it would. I must have just put on way too much each time. Even though I was trying to just barely do super thin layers each time, if there was a small strip of the ArmRseal, it didn't level out, or anything. It just dried like that. And the open time was nothing like the Minwax that I'm used to. The ArmRSeal started to tack up after just a few minutes so I could not go back and rub out any "wet spots." I ended up doing 6 coats of ArmrSeal, sanding in between each time with 320 sandpaper. The end result has turned out to be... okay. All the streaks and wet sports eventually leveled out in the recoating/sanding procedure. But the ArmrSeal is so shiny. I like a satin finish. So, I took some Behelen Wool Lube and some #0000 steel wool and rubbed the absolute crap out of the finish. The ArmRseal was so strong and hard, that it did not rb out to an even satin. There were shiny places that were still the ArmRSeal Semi-gloss. So I had to run again. And again... and again. I finally used some Behlen Deluxing compound finishing wax to wax, and the sheen is where I'd want it. but... Jesus. I really broke my arm with the #0000 steel wool. Is ArmR Seal just THAT much harder than the minwax polly? Now... my real question is... what can I do to protect the white painted inside where the books will actually sit. I had painted bookcases before, and when you put a book on them, even if you let the paint dry/cure for a month, the book still kind of sinks into the soft painter surface, ad the next time you pick up the book, there is a cracking sound as you rip the book out of the painted surface. I would just poly over the white painted surface. But all poly, even the ArnRSeal will yellow the white paint. Should I lay down a couple of coats of the Sanding Sealer dewaxed clear shellac? I also have a can of just clear satin deft spray lacquer. I do not have a HVLP spray system. Hell... while we're on the subject, should I just use the deft spray lacquer on the whole piece, and then run it out with #0000 steel wool to correct any overspray or imperfections? This isn't a kitchen table, and I do not think I need any heavy duty protection for this book case. What do you guys think about deft spray lacquer?
  16. This is 100% what I am talking about. I do not care about making $30K extra a year with woodworking. I just have so many ideas for furniture designs that I'd like to try... but I simply cannot afford the materials. I'd also need to rent a storage unit to store it all, if I could afford the materials.
  17. I agree w/ all you guys. Trying to turn wood into a "side hustle" to a day job will frustrate the hell out of a man. I think one of the most appealing things about woodworking is figuring out the absolute best balance between cost and result. For example. I built a fantastic mid-century modern coffee table. It is birch plywood w/ mahogany edge strips, a really nice cherry veneer and a 3-coat beautiful satin white Benjamin Moore oil paint interior. Total cost of materials... around $175-$200. The veneer is expensive, as is the paint. I could maybe break even if I sold it. BUT... I have since figured out that I could buy a cherry veneered piece of plywood and miter the edges instead of butt joints and veneering over it. I could use Mahagony iron on edge banding, and save a TON on buying a cheaper paint. Total = $75. The quality level would decline 10% but the price, > 50% less. Problem is... Do I just build a $75 table that I don't need hoping to sell it? I'd really like to try it.
  18. PLEASE... do not take this thread as the rabbit hole that it could easily turn into. I am not asking for specifics: Etsy, Craigslist, eBay, Local Markets, Consignment shops, Word of mouth... a quick Google search can give me 100 places to start selling things. I am interested in what you gentlemen think about selling your projects from a more personal level. I absolutely love making things from wood. If I could, I would literally quit my job and make sawdust all day. I imagine almost all of you guys on here feel the same way. But I can't. Not only can I not quit my day job... I really need to get a second job to afford the woodworking hobby. I have friends that have made some actual money on Etsy selling wedding coat hangers, believe it or now. They bend stiff wire to spell out the bride and groom's names, and I think they are meant to hang something special on the hangers, blah blah blah... They made $30,000 last year, just sitting around after work bending wire into words. I would rather open a vein than spend my free time making something I am not passionate about. I also do not expect to earn an extra teacher's-salary as a weekend warrior making coffee tables. But I would like to be able to sell one of my mid-century modern cherry veneered birch ply coffee tables for $200 more than I paid for the materials so that I can afford to buy a new shoulder plane and maybe some ArmRSeal. Do any of you guys have any tips on these two questions... 1. How to price items? 2. Where to find clients/customers/patrons?
  19. The bane of my existence has been making drawers. I have a large dresser that I need to build 6 drawers for, but none of the drawer slots is square. So, I have to fit the front, then take it down, and plane some, then try again, the plane some more, then try it, then plane it... etc etc. I clamp the board into my vice, and plane the 3/4" edge to fit the drawer. When I'm done, no matter how careful I was, the edge is slanted one way or the other. i.e. out of square. Is there some trick to not doing this?
  20. I did it!!! The combined cost of my DIY beading plane = .32 cents!!! I watched a video on YouTube by Peter Sellers; the English gent who talks slowly and makes you want to throw away all your power tools. He made a "poor man's beading tool." It is a 2" x 2" square piece of a 2"x4" that fits perfectly in the palm of your hand (you can round the thing over if you want to.). You take a flat #12 or #14 wood screw with the beveling under the screw head. Pre-drill and countersink a hole in the center of the chunk of wood, Screw the screw all the way in until it rests just a micron short of being flush with the wood face. Then you take a metal file, and file the screw head dead flat with the wood. This sharpens the edges of the screw. Then you back it out 2-3 turns to the desired bead radius, and you've made a tiny hand plane that you can run along the board like a marking gauge going progressively deeper until you have the bead channel carved. Then you just take a tiny hand plane or even some 120 sandpaper, and round over the edge to create the other side of the bead. Works perfectly! Takes a good while to do, but it isn't bad work. I did an 8 ft. pine board sitting in a chair on my porch last night. Took about an hour. I just saw this post JohnDi... Ha!!! Thanks Buddy! I appreciate you posting. Peter Seller's video did the trick!
  21. Oooooo. This is awesome! I don't have a band saw blade to cut and use, but I see the idea, and I think I can do something similar. Thanks!!!