thedoc46

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    Complete noob, but want to learn !

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  1. Thanks, this is kinda what i was planning to do after watching some YouTube video's. Perhaps use an oscillating tool at the finish cuts. I'll be using construction glue and a 15ga finish nailer. Want to make sure the new stair noses are on good and proper ! In terms of a straight edge, i may try and use a sacrificial plank of wood (or two) and cut it to the correct width size on the table saw and use that as my guide for the circ saw. Hopefully i don't hit any nails on the circ saw !
  2. Thanks for all the tips. Due to time constraints during the install, and not wanting to stop and figure out a better way as i was in the middle of installing, i just applied some stain to the ends, and actually its come out pretty good. Not bothering me at least, and that's good. As its the little things that bug you sometimes.
  3. Hi, I've been installing some 3/4" wood flooring to my entire upstairs. First time really working with wood but keen and learning. Anyway I'm now almost finished and at the stairs, and i need to remove the stair nose to make it flush with the riser, so that i can install the new solid wood 3/4" stained stair noses. I have the following tools i was thinking that would work, reciprocating saw, with 6" blades. Jigsaw, circular saw, and an oscillating tool. I also have a couple of chisels, if need be. As i said, i'm a woodworking noob. During this floor install was the first time i've ever used a table saw and mitre saw. Floor came out great. But that's cos i did all my research. So really not sure which tool would work best and give me the cleanest cut to get rid of those stair noses. There's about an inch that needs to come off, but as you can see by the pic, the stair case trim will eventually get in the way. Only just purchased the circular saw and reciprocating saw specific for this job. What would you more experienced guys use ? Just want to make this go as smoothly as possible, without damaging the stair case.
  4. Thanks for taking the time to do that pic. I think this is probably the best idea, plus it allows for expansion. Just need to get a router table to achieve, which is the one thing i do not have. I have a table saw, miter saw and a router attachment to my black and decker matrix driver. But it doesn't have any way of making itself attach to a table.
  5. I plan of having a gap on all the walls, just not on the staircase.
  6. Hi, The stair nose is also 3/4" so it'll just slot in exactly to the new hardwood floor. The riser will be cut to butt in under the stair nose. None of that should be a problem. I got stairnoses that are the same height as the wood plank. The problem for me is the rounded trim of the staircase sits below the height of the plank, whereas it should be higher, then i'd just butt up against it. (as in the pic from the model home) My problem is my wood is thicker, and i need to come up with a way to blend everything in. I'd rather not use a transition piece, because i'm not a fan of them. But if i have no choice, then i guess it'll have to do.
  7. Hi guys, First post here, so let me start off by saying hi to to all the other forum members. !! Noob woodworker here, but starting to get into it but my knowledge is still very very basic !!! . I'm about to undergo laying my first solid wood flooring. I've gone a bit cheap on the tools (kids to feed!!), and only have a HF table saw, HF miter saw, and jigsaw with various blades. Plus a router attachment to my Black & Decker cordless matrix system. But no router bits. But i've gone semi good on the floor, in that its a solid maple, rather than an engineered flooring. Basically I'm trying to accomplish the following. Chamfer my solid hardwood flooring so that i can blend it in to my stair case. Being that the solid hardwood is 3/4" it sits a little higher than the stair case trim. Which is going to make things ugly. I've gone thru some trouble of removing all my baseboards, so that i do not have the unsightly look of 1/4 rounds. So would like to avoid a trim of some kind and have it so that everything blends in nicely. I'm hoping people with a better idea than me can chime in here. I was thinking about putting a 15% chamfer on the planks, to slightly slope down to the trim. The trim has been routed to a curve, so another option would be to remove that curve? problem is the entire staircase has that curve, so it may look odd. Then chamfer less of the plank... I also went to a showhome by the same builder, but seems to me that they used a thinner plank, as it butts up nicely and looks good. Here are some pics to show you what i mean. Here's a pic from the showhome i mentioned above. I just want to end up with a professional looking job, even tho, i'm doing the job myself. I'll go to Sherwin Williams and ask them to make a stain for me, whilst i appreciate it won't be 100% accurate, i'm hoping it'll be enough to not drawer any eyes to it, and that it looks pretty good. I'm also open to any other idea's? We're not talking about routing and staining a lot of planks here, Just a few to get everything to blend in. I'm just lacking any experience to come up with the idea's.