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About fastev

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  1. I see that now. That wasn’t the case when I bought mine. I stand corrected... That said, the T-Glide fence is way nicer.
  2. The 3hp saw comes with a much nicer fence. That alone was worth the price for me.
  3. Another Woodpeckers table user here. Going to order the micro-adjust for the fence. Really happy with the quality and ease of use of all the parts. I've got the phenolic table, and while quite expensive, I've never had any regrets. It's a great system.
  4. Good deal, sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks all!
  5. I have a new bench in process. I'm going around in circles (over)thinking about the method for attaching the top to the legs. I'd prefer not buying the ww videos or the plans as nothing else is the same-- I've chosen to buck the trend and am going with Lie-Neilsen vises. That said, I'm curious as to what the accepted method of joining the top to the legs is? My plan was some 1.5" deep, 2" x 2" tenons on the legs (trestle base, 5" top) and two lags to pull everything together. Thoughts?
  6. I have a DJ20 with a Shelix. I stole mine, but $1000 for that combo is still a steal in my book. It is an excellent machine, especially if it is the Invicta model.
  7. My preference is Miller, but as stated above Lincoln and Hobart make good machines as does Esab. All of them offer starter kits that will come with everything you need. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but the Vulcan line from Harbor Freight seems to be getting pretty decent reviews. Time will tell how they’ll hold up, but for garage use a few times a year they’d probably be fine. One thing to look at that will tell you a lot about the guts of the machine is duty cycle. It’s a percentage that refers to how long you can weld in a 10 minute window. For example, my Dynasty can run 225 amps at 60% on 220v single phase power. That’s huge power, for 6 minutes out of 10. By comparison, HF’s Vulcan can do 175a at 30% on the same input, or 3 minutes in 10. So, for heavy work the Miller will run circles around the HF and build it a cart to sit on while the HF is cooling off. This better be the case though, the Miller is 10x the price of the HF. The current rating is another number to pay attention to. All the machines that are inverter power supplies are way more efficient than the old transformer machines. And smaller. Only problem is that they don’t have the same balls. Especially when you run on 120v power. The power and duty cycle will drop significantly on the cheap machines. They’ll all burn 1/8” to 1/4” steel without breaking a sweat. Heavier steel, burning through coatings, aluminum will all require more powerful machines. If you look at a TIG welder spend the money on something with high frequency start, and pulse if you can afford it. These are like cheating. Normally, you’d use what is known as scratch start— you scratch your tungsten electrode on your work to strike an arc. Works fine but contaminates your tip. After a few of these starts you start getting inclusions in your beads and basically just gets harder to get a nice weld. (This is where duty cycle comes in- lower cycle the more you have to start and stop) With high frequency start you get a boost of current when you strike your arc, enough that the arc jumps the small gap between electrode and the work. Keeps your tip clean and prevents opening your gap too much when you pull your torch away from the work in a scratch start. Have you ever seen a weld, particularly on aluminum, that looks like dimes stacked one on top of another? You can use pulsing as a crutch to get this effect which is typically a hallmark of a good weld. Pulsing is exactly that— like a heartbeat. You can adjust the pulse rate to match your travel and get a really nice weld. With a little practice you’ll learn how fast you like to travel and how to control the heat, and adjusting the pulse rate will get you a pretty perfect bead without burning through your material. Now, as I said, for most of us that doesn’t matter. It simply tells me that the Miller is made from better, more robust components. The torch and stinger will be better quality, and probably longer. More power particularly on 120v is a good sign, but only if duty cycles are comparable. Be realistic about what you want to weld and buy a machine that can do more than you are planning. DC machines are always less expensive than AC/DC machines, but nowhere near as capable. TIG is much more versatile than MIG but harder to learn. Accessories are good, but you don't need a spool gun, water cooled torch, wireless control. The second two are really nice to have but totally unnecessary. A spool gun is silly unless you are running hundreds of feet of weld a day. For a hobby machine bought new the Miller Millermatic 125 would be my choice for MIG and the Miller Diversion 180 for TIG. The warranty and factory support from Miller are great. There’s an online dealer called cyberweld that you can compare specs from different mfgs. Sorry for the long post, hopefully it helps...
  8. DC will weld anything steel. You need AC to weld aluminum, unless you are a supreme badass. Material thickness and duty cycle are the most important things to look for. A 120v buzz box will serve you well as a weekend warrior where 3/16 steel and 20 or 30 seconds of burn time over a few minutes will be all you do. Flux core MIG is super easy to learn. Shield gas wil always produce a better weld. TIG is the most versatile in my opinion. Most all TIG power supplies will run a stick too; but, as far as I’m concerned, stick welding is best left to structural and field repairs anymore. Quality buzz boxes are available for next to nothing now. I was fortunate when I left my last job to buy a fully outfitted Miller Dynasty 350 at the corporate discount price. Wireless pedal, water cooled torch. Everything. Insanely overkill for anything I’ll do at home, but it’s what we used at work so I’m used to running it. I used to do maintenance and repair on stainless and Hastalloy tanks for a huge bio pharmaceutical company. You want a headache, sit for an E-stamp...
  9. fastev


    Yes. Heat is a good thing! I'm picking up the last two sections of vent duct tomorrow for my heater. I've got a little over 500sqft, and went with a Sterling GG45. Against better judgement, I fired it up with no exhaust ducting last night after getting the gas piping and thermostat. Totally worth having to leave the window open all night and losing all my heat! And, yes to the CO alarm. Easy purchase, shouldn't need justification.
  10. Saw that on the tube this morning. Like it as well.
  11. Carl, thanks for posting that chart, I've never seen that. I was planning on moving from my Delta 50-760 to a HF/Dust Deputy setup. Looks like it would be a downgrade... So, piggybacking on Carl's post, my Delta has been a really great collector. Not sure where you are, but on my local Craigslist I see the Deltas all the time. I can only speculate that with the prevalence of YouTube and similar videos about modding the HF collectors, people are dumping the Deltas. Most are priced around $100. I've got the same jointer, a 735 planer, SS cabinet saw, and the Delta keeps up just fine. I had build a Thien separator, but the performance dropped too much for the value added. I may try a Dust Deputy at some point, mainly because I can't seem to leave anything alone. Basically, where I'm going with this, is you could "upgrade" to the 50-760 and get better performance now, and save the money you were going to spend now towards a real stationary system.
  12. I think it depends on a handful of factors. New or used, which tool is in question, "I can buy this, but if I get this instead I can get this too", etc. The new Delta is not the Delta of yesteryear. The DJ-20 has a whole host of clones available now at all price points, and that is one example. The current Delta jointer offerings, whelp, I'll end this sentence now... My opinion is that Jet prices are way too close to Powermatic anymore, yet, for many examples the quality isn't there. My local dealer sells Jet, but only has a couple dust collectors and one bandsaw on display. They have the whole Powermatic line, minus tablesaws. I asked about this and he told me that based on warranty issues and callbacks (they service what they sell) he urges people to get the Powermatics. Which brings up another point-- am i the only one that thinks the Powermatic tablesaws are overpriced? I know they're very nice saws, I've used a number of different offerings, but SawStops are easily as nice and the brake puts it over the top. All for a very similar price.
  13. There is a 6" Grizzly P-bed on craigslist near me right now... Having disassembled and rebuilt both styles I think the p-bed would actually be far easier to manufacture. There are quite a few more pieces, but there is also far more tolerance for manufacturing errors on the p-bed. I think most of the issues on the wedge bed models stem from cheaper castings that warp or simply don't have the material to support the beds hanging off the base. My Delta 6" was a champ, and it was about 20 years old. Easy to adjust, and held those adjustments perfectly. I only upgraded because I found an Brazilian-made Invicta DJ-20 with a Byrd cutter for $400. My brother was given a Ridgid 6" a few years ago. It was only used a couple times, but stored in a leaky shed with crap all over it. I rebuilt it for him, and the dovetails required significant shimming to get everything square. This is usually a pretty reliable model, but his was a turd. Didn't hold settings well at all. He gave it to some other poor soul when he got a DJ-15. We rebuild that, and it's been solid as could be ever since. The parallelogram beds are the only way to go if you are in the market if I have any advice to offer. I don't think the castings of the wedge beds are anything near the quality they once were. I suspect the $300 you are seeing is because they are the "new" technology, which, as we all know, is worth more...
  14. I bought some Grizzly metal working tools years ago. The milling machine was a gem, the lathe was an absolute turd. I feel your pain of the customer service, or lack there-of. Echoing many others, they do offer some great machines at very good prices. Based on my experience, I'll pass on machinery from them at this point. Basically, long way of saying enjoy your new Sawstop. They really are THAT nice...
  15. Interesting, those look familiar. I was a mechanic in the biopharmaceutical world in my previous life. We used mallets very similar to those when rebuilding centrifuges. We had heavy lead and stainless mallets. Lead was used as it would conform to the various parts we were beating on, stainless, as it was a known quantity when product went through a metal detector. Brass was more difficult to detect in small quantities than lead or stainless.