armstrdm

Members
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About armstrdm

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Building Tables
  1. Thanks DCustoms and Tim, I looked up the Opex lacquer on S-W's site (tinting white L61W19). It's exacly what I'm looking for! I'm pretty fortunate in that I liver near a S-W commercial coatings distributor, so I should have no problems obtaining it. Thanks again! Dave
  2. Have a question that I'm hoping you guys could answer for me. I have made several picture frames from sugar maple for my daughters graduation pictures . For the finish, my plan was to use an ebony waterbased stain, followed by Sherwin Williams CAB acryllic lacquer (on top of a coat or two of S-W vinyl sealer). I've done this many times with good results. Except now, my daughter has changed her mind, and decided she wants the picture frames done in her school colors. Well I've used mixol color pigment before with the S-W lacquer with good results so I tried using that to come up with the correct colors. After trying many times to mix the proper shades of color, I'm just not able to get it right. It doesn't help that I'm VERY color blind. My question is...can I use enamel or other type of paint underneath the sealer and lacquer to get the color she wants? I've tried a couple laytex paints on some scrap I had in the basement just check compatibility, but as I suspected the laytex paint crazed almost immediately no matter what time window I tried. She really wants these colors, combined with the gloss and depth of the lacquer. Would another type of paint be more compatible with the S-W? Any ideas? Thanks! D
  3. Thanks Gents. Project is about 8' long with a 24 inch deep counter. I had thought about alternating contrasting hardwoods like cherry and maple, and using a salad bowl finish, but wasn't sure if it would hold up to the amount of moisture a counter sees on a daily basis. This is utimately for a basement entertainment area so it will see plenty of soda, water etc. and I'd like to keep the budget under say 1500. The contrast idea might be a bit much on the eye, so I'm not sold on it. That teak sure does look nice Don. And I like the herringbone corner. Thanks!!
  4. Do you guys thinks it's possible to make a countertop that is covered with something other than laminate? I am trying to come up with ideas that would work for a basement countertop that is an island (no corners) about 8 feet long. At this point I'm just throwing ideas around in my head for possible materials that could handle the abuse of a countertop. I'm wondering if a bartop expoxy combined with a closed grain hard wood could work. Or does the liquid a counter would face just make it impossible? Any ideas?
  5. Thanks everyone! You all pretty much read my mind. I too am inclined to make my own jigs if I have the necessary material laying around. I was thinking about getting one of the slides I'll be using and somehow incorporate that into a fixture of some sort that will allow the slide itself to rest where it will be positioned. Beechwood, I'm going to check out Marc's video right now, thanks!
  6. I will be making a some cabinets in the near future and wanted to see if anyone had some ideas for a jig to help me place the drawer slides. Or does anyone have any experience with one of the commercial products like Kreg?
  7. Hey Guys, I was doing some spraying today and after my finish filmed over, there was a LOT of little fisheye marks. Had no clue what caused it at first, but then remembered I had cleaned the gun about a week ago and used a little CVS brand vaseline on the o-ring that seals the air flow control knob. Now looking back I feel like a complete dumb_ _ _ for doing that! Does anyone know if petoleum jelly has any silicone based ingredients in it? Or anything else that might cause fisheye? Thanks, Dave
  8. I'm wondering what kind of grain filler or paste filler you guys use for solvent based finishes. In the past I've always made my own when using a waterbased or oil based finish. I'm using a lot of poplar at the moment that's destined for a S-W CAB lacquer finish. Any suggestions on what I could use for leveling out the pores?
  9. I want to upgrade the fence on my Hitachi C10FL table saw (the one it came with is really awful). Do you guys know of anyone that has (or have personal experience with) upgraded this saw with the Delta fence? I doubt it will bolt directly, but can it be fitted to this saw? Thanks F
  10. Paul... "run it through a friends planer"... that had me cracking up - thanks, I needed a laugh
  11. I've been replacing all of the picture frames in the house with ones I've made. My wife and I really prefer a very high gloss, highly polished finished on these frames. After experimenting with several variations of lacquer I have come to using the Deft aerosol spray. The finishes are actually turning out pretty nice. But I think I can do better. The process I am using now is to apply about 12 coats, allow to cure for about 10 days or more. Then start wet sanding with 400 grit to flatten surface and then work my way up through 2000 grit for a polished finish. then I use a Beal buffing wheel system for the final polishing, and finally a cleaning wax to get it as smooth and glossy as possible. Do any of you have a process that's proved effective? Do you sand to higher grit papers? Should I use a rubbing compound after the buffing wheel? Would a spray gun setup improve the quality of the finish and if so, what should I look for when purchasing the equipment (keep in mind that I'm not related to the Rockafellers:) ? I'd love to hear what you all have to say as I'm still very "green" at this. Thanks!
  12. Hello, I am new to Wood Whisperer and have just recently started trying to build a few projects. I've done a couple a projects using a wipe on poly (Arm-R-Seal) and now I am interested in trying a lacquer finish. I bought a quart of Minwax lacquer even though I'm not a big fan of this brand just to see how it looked on some scrap. It seemed extremely thick. Can any of you give me some tips on how (or even if) I can dilute the lacquer? Can I just use any lacquer thinner or is the chemical makeup important? And is there a favorite brand that any of you use? Thanks...