knotscott

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About knotscott

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  • Birthday March 17

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    Rochester, NY
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  1. They used to be decent bargain bits, but have heard from other respected woodworkers that the quality has slipped in recent years. Since I have bought any new in more than ten years, I can't say from first hand experience what the new ones are like. They never were in the league of Whiteside or Infinity....or even their own Katana line for that matter.
  2. Do you have 220v available? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/6150256112.html
  3. The PM1000 is a very nice saw....perhaps among the best of the 120v saws commonly available, but I still wouldn't buy it. Mainly because I don't think it represents very good value relative to some other options. The PM1000 is not like a PM2000, even though they look somewhat similar. It's a personal and subjective decision that only you can make, but my view is that it's a very expensive saw that's not equipped with the latest in in flesh sensing technology, and it's not 3hp+. With your budget you shouldn't have to give up much. 1.75hp is "adequate"....you don't necessarily need 3
  4. cabinet The ABCs of Table Saws A cabinet saw, hybrid, or contractor saw (basically a full size stationary saw) has the lion's share of advantages over a portable. The biggest benefit of a portable saw is portability....if you don't need that feature, there's not much benefit in getting a jobsite saw over a good stationary saw. The materials of construction of a stationary saw are far more robust, the table space in front of the blade is considerably larger allowing you to get the board settled for a more accurate cut, the motors are quieter and have more torque, are more accepti
  5. Hybrid saw is sort of a cross between a traditional contractor saw and an industrial cabinet saw. There are exceptions to most generalities, and the lines have blurred a bit in recent years but hybrids are typically lighter duty than industrial cabinet saws, and usually have smaller motors that will run on 120v. This is what's typically under the hood of a true industrial cabinet saw: Here's how many of the better hybrids are built:
  6. That depends on a lot of things....your saw, what you cut, how critical the results are, how fussy you are, budget, etc. Nearly any blade for wood will cut wood, but there's a science/art to getting the most out of each cut. Familiarity with the basics will help - ie: more teeth tends to equate to a finer cut, but also comes at the cost of more resistance to the saw and more tendency to burn (and generally higher price). Likewise, fewer teeth tends to equate to faster more efficient cut with less resistance and less burning, but will generally have a rougher finish. Read through the link b
  7. If it's creating a boomerang something is wrong beyond any indulations that stray from perfectly flat. I also think most people find them flat enough, so obviously not all are effected.
  8. Sounds like it was defective, and should be replaced under warranty.
  9. Blades can definitely be expensive, but they're also critical to how well your saw performs.....like tires on a performance car. A lousy blade will guarantee lousy performance from your new saw, so it makes good sense to optimize the performance with the right blade. Save the stock blade for framing and junk cuts. If you're going to get just one blade, I agree with SawDustB....a decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade will do a good job of many tasks. The Irwin Marples 50T is about $40 near us at Lowes and from Amazon. The Infinity 50T is a bargain at $70 for top shelf performance.
  10. Grizzly G1023RL is a great bang for the buck, and the G0690 is close, but may push your budget a bit farther. There's nothing similar in a new saw in that price range, but both will need 220v. I doubt you would need to replace either fence...both are pretty darn good in my book. The only thing to replace is the stock blade. The Jet Proshop is a good hybrid 120v option, but none of the hybrids will be as as beefy as those two Griz options.
  11. The angled bottom funnels saw dust too.
  12. I would at least calculate out the difference in actual square footage consumed by each saw before ruling out a full size saw. My whole shop is squeezed into half of a two car garage.
  13. An extension can add rip capacity to a jobsite saw, but it won't add space in front of the blade, or mass. The larger landing zone makes it easier to get the board settled before the wood actually reaches the blade....that alone is a pretty significant advantage.
  14. First question - Are you specifically looking for a portable jobsite saw, or are you looking at those due to price? If you don't need portability, a larger full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor has several advantages over the smaller jobsite saw, including long term reliability as well as feasibility of a repair if ever needed. The ABCs of Table Saws BTW, don't take online reviews as gospel....it's estimated that about 30% are not legit. Those that are legit may or may not be from credible users.
  15. It's worth pointing out that the Freud 30T GLR blades are really intended for stock that's 1" or less. Their objective is smooth edges, not low resistance and efficiency in thick stock...to achieve that goal Freud uses very tight side geometry on the GLRs which creates more heat to burnish and polish the edge, much like a higher tooth count blade. The thin kerf version (LM75) will obviously pose less resistance than the full kerf version (LM74), but will still be as prone to burning as a higher tooth count blade, and is not a great candidate for thick ripping. There's never a free lunch!