knotscott

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About knotscott

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  • Birthday March 17

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    Rochester, NY
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  1. They used to be decent bargain bits, but have heard from other respected woodworkers that the quality has slipped in recent years. Since I have bought any new in more than ten years, I can't say from first hand experience what the new ones are like. They never were in the league of Whiteside or Infinity....or even their own Katana line for that matter.
  2. Do you have 220v available? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/6150256112.html
  3. The PM1000 is a very nice saw....perhaps among the best of the 120v saws commonly available, but I still wouldn't buy it. Mainly because I don't think it represents very good value relative to some other options. The PM1000 is not like a PM2000, even though they look somewhat similar. It's a personal and subjective decision that only you can make, but my view is that it's a very expensive saw that's not equipped with the latest in in flesh sensing technology, and it's not 3hp+. With your budget you shouldn't have to give up much. 1.75hp is "adequate"....you don't necessarily need 3hp to do good work, but there is a notable difference going from 1.75hp to 3hp. I view the PM1000 similarly to a buying $50,000 Mercedes that has modest horsepower....if I'm buying a luxury car in that price range, I don't want "adequate" power...I want it to be impressive! If I'm spending in the price range of a dream saw, I want it to perform like one. I don't want to be slowing down my feed rate so I don't bog it down, and I don't ever want to outgrow it. For around that same price, you can get into a very nice Saw Stop saw that won't bite the hand that feeds it....for a bit more, you can get a pretty tricked out PCS that would be a lifetime saw of similar quality as the PM1000. For quite a bit less money, you can get a very good Jet Proshop hybrid that should have similar power to the PM1000 and all the precision you should need for ~ $800 less. For less than half the price of a PM1000, you can get into a Grizzly hybrid. As I said, it's subjective and we all have different preferences, but those are the reasons I wouldn't shell out that kind of money for that saw.
  4. cabinet The ABCs of Table Saws A cabinet saw, hybrid, or contractor saw (basically a full size stationary saw) has the lion's share of advantages over a portable. The biggest benefit of a portable saw is portability....if you don't need that feature, there's not much benefit in getting a jobsite saw over a good stationary saw. The materials of construction of a stationary saw are far more robust, the table space in front of the blade is considerably larger allowing you to get the board settled for a more accurate cut, the motors are quieter and have more torque, are more accepting of aftermarket jigs, can be more easily upgraded, are more feasible to fix in the event of a failure, have better long term reliability, and are more stable with lower vibration.
  5. Hybrid saw is sort of a cross between a traditional contractor saw and an industrial cabinet saw. There are exceptions to most generalities, and the lines have blurred a bit in recent years but hybrids are typically lighter duty than industrial cabinet saws, and usually have smaller motors that will run on 120v. This is what's typically under the hood of a true industrial cabinet saw: Here's how many of the better hybrids are built:
  6. That depends on a lot of things....your saw, what you cut, how critical the results are, how fussy you are, budget, etc. Nearly any blade for wood will cut wood, but there's a science/art to getting the most out of each cut. Familiarity with the basics will help - ie: more teeth tends to equate to a finer cut, but also comes at the cost of more resistance to the saw and more tendency to burn (and generally higher price). Likewise, fewer teeth tends to equate to faster more efficient cut with less resistance and less burning, but will generally have a rougher finish. Read through the link below for more detail. Since you just picked up a 1.5hp R4512, I'd be leaning toward the 3/32" thin kerf group. A decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade is a great starting point because it will be "good" in just about everything and good examples start at ~ $35. A general purpose/combo blade will fall short in heavy duty thick ripping (roughly 1.5"+) compared to a 24T bulk rip blade because the number of teeth and small gullets will cause increased resistance and increased burning. A general purpose/combo blade will also fall short compared to a 60T to 80T blade for fine crosscuts and ply cuts because the lower number of teeth will have more tearout in cross grain cuts. You can add a rip blade and/or a fine crosscut/ply blade later on as needed. I'd stick with names like Infinity, Forrest, Freud Industrial, Ridge Carbide, Irwin Marples, Guhdo, Tenryu, CMT Industrial, Amana Tool, Freud Diablo (if made in Italy) and other top industrial blades, and would avoid mediocre blades like the new Avanti/Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Skil, Vermont American, Irwin Marathon or Classic, DW Construction, Oldham Construction, HF, Work Force, etc that are no better than the stock blade. Tips for Picking Saw Blades Bargain Blades
  7. If it's creating a boomerang something is wrong beyond any indulations that stray from perfectly flat. I also think most people find them flat enough, so obviously not all are effected.
  8. Sounds like it was defective, and should be replaced under warranty.
  9. Blades can definitely be expensive, but they're also critical to how well your saw performs.....like tires on a performance car. A lousy blade will guarantee lousy performance from your new saw, so it makes good sense to optimize the performance with the right blade. Save the stock blade for framing and junk cuts. If you're going to get just one blade, I agree with SawDustB....a decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade will do a good job of many tasks. The Irwin Marples 50T is about $40 near us at Lowes and from Amazon. The Infinity 50T is a bargain at $70 for top shelf performance. If your current needs are for fine cuts in ply or crosscuts, then a good 60T to 80T blade makes sense. If you need to do a lot of heavy thick ripping, get a 24T rip blade. I'd stick with Freud, Ridge Carbide, Infinity, Forrest, Irwin Marples, Guhdo, Tenryu, CMT Industrial, Amana Tool and other top industrial blades, and would avoid mediocre blades like the new Avanti/Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Skil, Vermont American, Irwin Marathon or Classic, DW Construction, Oldham Construction, HF, Work Force, etc. Tips for Picking Saw Blades p.s.: rumor has it that the new Diablo blades are made in China, not Italy. That doesn't mean poor performance, but no one moves manufacturing to China to improve quality. Some of the current stock might still be made in Italy....this Amazon listing of A 50T for $35 claims Made in Italy
  10. Grizzly G1023RL is a great bang for the buck, and the G0690 is close, but may push your budget a bit farther. There's nothing similar in a new saw in that price range, but both will need 220v. I doubt you would need to replace either fence...both are pretty darn good in my book. The only thing to replace is the stock blade. The Jet Proshop is a good hybrid 120v option, but none of the hybrids will be as as beefy as those two Griz options.
  11. The angled bottom funnels saw dust too.
  12. I would at least calculate out the difference in actual square footage consumed by each saw before ruling out a full size saw. My whole shop is squeezed into half of a two car garage.
  13. An extension can add rip capacity to a jobsite saw, but it won't add space in front of the blade, or mass. The larger landing zone makes it easier to get the board settled before the wood actually reaches the blade....that alone is a pretty significant advantage.
  14. First question - Are you specifically looking for a portable jobsite saw, or are you looking at those due to price? If you don't need portability, a larger full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor has several advantages over the smaller jobsite saw, including long term reliability as well as feasibility of a repair if ever needed. The ABCs of Table Saws BTW, don't take online reviews as gospel....it's estimated that about 30% are not legit. Those that are legit may or may not be from credible users.
  15. It's worth pointing out that the Freud 30T GLR blades are really intended for stock that's 1" or less. Their objective is smooth edges, not low resistance and efficiency in thick stock...to achieve that goal Freud uses very tight side geometry on the GLRs which creates more heat to burnish and polish the edge, much like a higher tooth count blade. The thin kerf version (LM75) will obviously pose less resistance than the full kerf version (LM74), but will still be as prone to burning as a higher tooth count blade, and is not a great candidate for thick ripping. There's never a free lunch!