knotscott

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Everything posted by knotscott

  1. They used to be decent bargain bits, but have heard from other respected woodworkers that the quality has slipped in recent years. Since I have bought any new in more than ten years, I can't say from first hand experience what the new ones are like. They never were in the league of Whiteside or Infinity....or even their own Katana line for that matter.
  2. Do you have 220v available? https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/6150256112.html
  3. The PM1000 is a very nice saw....perhaps among the best of the 120v saws commonly available, but I still wouldn't buy it. Mainly because I don't think it represents very good value relative to some other options. The PM1000 is not like a PM2000, even though they look somewhat similar. It's a personal and subjective decision that only you can make, but my view is that it's a very expensive saw that's not equipped with the latest in in flesh sensing technology, and it's not 3hp+. With your budget you shouldn't have to give up much. 1.75hp is "adequate"....you don't necessarily need 3hp to do good work, but there is a notable difference going from 1.75hp to 3hp. I view the PM1000 similarly to a buying $50,000 Mercedes that has modest horsepower....if I'm buying a luxury car in that price range, I don't want "adequate" power...I want it to be impressive! If I'm spending in the price range of a dream saw, I want it to perform like one. I don't want to be slowing down my feed rate so I don't bog it down, and I don't ever want to outgrow it. For around that same price, you can get into a very nice Saw Stop saw that won't bite the hand that feeds it....for a bit more, you can get a pretty tricked out PCS that would be a lifetime saw of similar quality as the PM1000. For quite a bit less money, you can get a very good Jet Proshop hybrid that should have similar power to the PM1000 and all the precision you should need for ~ $800 less. For less than half the price of a PM1000, you can get into a Grizzly hybrid. As I said, it's subjective and we all have different preferences, but those are the reasons I wouldn't shell out that kind of money for that saw.
  4. cabinet The ABCs of Table Saws A cabinet saw, hybrid, or contractor saw (basically a full size stationary saw) has the lion's share of advantages over a portable. The biggest benefit of a portable saw is portability....if you don't need that feature, there's not much benefit in getting a jobsite saw over a good stationary saw. The materials of construction of a stationary saw are far more robust, the table space in front of the blade is considerably larger allowing you to get the board settled for a more accurate cut, the motors are quieter and have more torque, are more accepting of aftermarket jigs, can be more easily upgraded, are more feasible to fix in the event of a failure, have better long term reliability, and are more stable with lower vibration.
  5. Hybrid saw is sort of a cross between a traditional contractor saw and an industrial cabinet saw. There are exceptions to most generalities, and the lines have blurred a bit in recent years but hybrids are typically lighter duty than industrial cabinet saws, and usually have smaller motors that will run on 120v. This is what's typically under the hood of a true industrial cabinet saw: Here's how many of the better hybrids are built:
  6. That depends on a lot of things....your saw, what you cut, how critical the results are, how fussy you are, budget, etc. Nearly any blade for wood will cut wood, but there's a science/art to getting the most out of each cut. Familiarity with the basics will help - ie: more teeth tends to equate to a finer cut, but also comes at the cost of more resistance to the saw and more tendency to burn (and generally higher price). Likewise, fewer teeth tends to equate to faster more efficient cut with less resistance and less burning, but will generally have a rougher finish. Read through the link below for more detail. Since you just picked up a 1.5hp R4512, I'd be leaning toward the 3/32" thin kerf group. A decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade is a great starting point because it will be "good" in just about everything and good examples start at ~ $35. A general purpose/combo blade will fall short in heavy duty thick ripping (roughly 1.5"+) compared to a 24T bulk rip blade because the number of teeth and small gullets will cause increased resistance and increased burning. A general purpose/combo blade will also fall short compared to a 60T to 80T blade for fine crosscuts and ply cuts because the lower number of teeth will have more tearout in cross grain cuts. You can add a rip blade and/or a fine crosscut/ply blade later on as needed. I'd stick with names like Infinity, Forrest, Freud Industrial, Ridge Carbide, Irwin Marples, Guhdo, Tenryu, CMT Industrial, Amana Tool, Freud Diablo (if made in Italy) and other top industrial blades, and would avoid mediocre blades like the new Avanti/Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Skil, Vermont American, Irwin Marathon or Classic, DW Construction, Oldham Construction, HF, Work Force, etc that are no better than the stock blade. Tips for Picking Saw Blades Bargain Blades
  7. If it's creating a boomerang something is wrong beyond any indulations that stray from perfectly flat. I also think most people find them flat enough, so obviously not all are effected.
  8. Sounds like it was defective, and should be replaced under warranty.
  9. Blades can definitely be expensive, but they're also critical to how well your saw performs.....like tires on a performance car. A lousy blade will guarantee lousy performance from your new saw, so it makes good sense to optimize the performance with the right blade. Save the stock blade for framing and junk cuts. If you're going to get just one blade, I agree with SawDustB....a decent 40T or 50T general purpose/combo blade will do a good job of many tasks. The Irwin Marples 50T is about $40 near us at Lowes and from Amazon. The Infinity 50T is a bargain at $70 for top shelf performance. If your current needs are for fine cuts in ply or crosscuts, then a good 60T to 80T blade makes sense. If you need to do a lot of heavy thick ripping, get a 24T rip blade. I'd stick with Freud, Ridge Carbide, Infinity, Forrest, Irwin Marples, Guhdo, Tenryu, CMT Industrial, Amana Tool and other top industrial blades, and would avoid mediocre blades like the new Avanti/Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Skil, Vermont American, Irwin Marathon or Classic, DW Construction, Oldham Construction, HF, Work Force, etc. Tips for Picking Saw Blades p.s.: rumor has it that the new Diablo blades are made in China, not Italy. That doesn't mean poor performance, but no one moves manufacturing to China to improve quality. Some of the current stock might still be made in Italy....this Amazon listing of A 50T for $35 claims Made in Italy
  10. Grizzly G1023RL is a great bang for the buck, and the G0690 is close, but may push your budget a bit farther. There's nothing similar in a new saw in that price range, but both will need 220v. I doubt you would need to replace either fence...both are pretty darn good in my book. The only thing to replace is the stock blade. The Jet Proshop is a good hybrid 120v option, but none of the hybrids will be as as beefy as those two Griz options.
  11. The angled bottom funnels saw dust too.
  12. I would at least calculate out the difference in actual square footage consumed by each saw before ruling out a full size saw. My whole shop is squeezed into half of a two car garage.
  13. An extension can add rip capacity to a jobsite saw, but it won't add space in front of the blade, or mass. The larger landing zone makes it easier to get the board settled before the wood actually reaches the blade....that alone is a pretty significant advantage.
  14. First question - Are you specifically looking for a portable jobsite saw, or are you looking at those due to price? If you don't need portability, a larger full size cast iron saw with a belt drive induction motor has several advantages over the smaller jobsite saw, including long term reliability as well as feasibility of a repair if ever needed. The ABCs of Table Saws BTW, don't take online reviews as gospel....it's estimated that about 30% are not legit. Those that are legit may or may not be from credible users.
  15. It's worth pointing out that the Freud 30T GLR blades are really intended for stock that's 1" or less. Their objective is smooth edges, not low resistance and efficiency in thick stock...to achieve that goal Freud uses very tight side geometry on the GLRs which creates more heat to burnish and polish the edge, much like a higher tooth count blade. The thin kerf version (LM75) will obviously pose less resistance than the full kerf version (LM74), but will still be as prone to burning as a higher tooth count blade, and is not a great candidate for thick ripping. There's never a free lunch!
  16. Get a decent 24T 3/32" thin kerf ripping blade for fast efficient ripping without burning...it'll pose a lot less resistance, making the motor seem more powerful. Infinity 010-124, Freud LU87. Get a good 60T to 80T for crosscuts....Infinity 010-060, Freud LU88.
  17. Bob Ross, maker of the BORK passed away last month, so it's moot point other than to clarify. It was available as just a riving knife or with the blade guard. As with all riving knives with guards, non-through cuts were not possible with the blade guard in place, but the knife by itself could easy be set to allow non-through cuts. Many saws offer one knife to accept the guard, and another as a stand alone knife for non-through cuts, as did the BORK. G0690 riving knife options: BORK with blade guard: BORK without blade guard
  18. This setup maximizes the space available, and includes most of my preferences. It's a 2008 Shop Fox W1677 (a white Griz G1023SL) with a Jet Xacta II fence and router fence, but still uses the original Shop Fox rails. I slid the fence rails 10" to the right, so I have 36" rip to the right, none to the left. The stock splitter has been replaced with the most recent BORK riving knife and blade guard, which I also like a lot, and has worked well for me (Bob Ross recently passed away, so it's no longer available). There's also a Wixey digital readout on it...it's nice, but I honestly rarely use it, and don't require that much precision. And lastly, I added a crosscut extension on the left side since I never rip on that side. I mainly use an Osborne EB-3 miter gauge, but also have an Incra V27 with a fence. I sold my Woodhaven Deluxe....it was built like a tank, but harder to adjust adjust for angles than the other two. The saw sits on a basic 3-wheel mobile base...I added a platform to get the height the same as my workbench/outfeed table, and added sides to the platform just so it won't slide off. The router cabinet is just an old vanity that I picked up from the side of the road. It sits on it's own mobile base, and doesn't actually connect to the router table....it just sits underneath it and comes close to touching the underside of the table. It rolls freely out from underneath if I want it to. The router fence is a Jet attachment that fits their Jet Xacta II fence in place of the right side face. I built the router table from 9/8" formica counter material. It has more power than I'll ever need, and I like the whole setup quite a bit. The router fence adds some weight, but is small concern compared to the space savings of the router table in the wing. I've always like the more modern spoked handwheels better than the solid ones I have, but it's strictly a cosmetic preference....if anyone with a newer G1023 has the spoked handwheels and prefers the solid ones, I'll gladly swap you for them! ;-) Otherwise, it's setup to my liking, and I've happy with it for quite a few years now. Can I ask why you opted to not pursue the G1023SL? I can't imagine getting more saw for that price. I'd want to ask at least $800 if I had to sell mine.
  19. Great deal. Will sell fast. Iv'e been running the Shop Fox equivalent since 2008...love it, no issues, runs like a champ.
  20. The Rikon is the same as the Steel City 35990. Steel City is now defunct, and I don't think they sold a lot of these...they just weren't around that long, so I'd suspect this particular Rikon could be difficult to source parts for. Otherwise, the saws had cabinet mounted trunnions and a hybrid style design with an internal belt drive motor. The fence had a two-piece front rail and wasn't particularly well received, though it's functional. Other than some initial release growing pains, I think it was a decent saw. How about a Jet Proshop hybrid? Excellent track record, cabinet mounted trunnions, nice fence. The 708492k starts at about $1200: SPECIFICATIONS:• Motor Voltage (V.): 115/230• Maximum Depth of Cut at 45 Degrees (In.): 2-1/8• Motor Power (HP): 1-3/4• Maximum Width of Dado (In.): 13/16• Table in Front of Saw Blade at Maximum Depth of Cut (In.): 10• Table Size with Extension (L x W) (In.): 27 x 44• Motor Amps: 15/7 The Grizzly G0771Z is a bit less expensive. $859 shipped. Has a bit lesser fence, and is less well proven, but gets mostly high marks from owners. Specifications: Motor: 2 HP, 120V/240V, prewired 120V, single-phase, 60 Hz Amps: 15A at 120V, 7.5A at 240V
  21. They could sell them for celebrating finger saves too!
  22. These should be available any day now...
  23. If you do have 220v, I'd give the Grizzly G1023RL or G0690 a good look at around the same price as the used SS contractor saw. Both are 3hp industrial cabinet saws that are among the best bangs for the buck on the market. They don't have the flesh sensing technology, but are a much more substantial saws than that particular Saw Stop model.
  24. $1550 is very high for that saw in that condition with the steel wings IMO., and God only knows what's happened to make the motor sit funny. You can buy a new one with warranty with the T-Glide fence for ~ $1800. Do you have 220v available?
  25. A great saw with a mediocre blade will be reduced to mediocre performance....it makes sense to put a good blade on it. An excellent blade doesn't need to cost $120 either. There's a really good general purpose blades starting around $30 shipped (Delta Industrial 35-7657 closeout, and some of the best 40T general purpose blades in the $80-$100 range (Ridge Carbide TS2000, Freud Fusion, Infinity Super General, and Tenryu Gold Medal), and an excellent 50T combo blade in the $70 range (Infinity Combomax). For absolute best performance for each task, you can look into a good dedicated crosscut/ply blade and a dedicated bulk ripper, depending on what you cut most.