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About plinmaine

  • Birthday June 22

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Brunswick, Maine
  • Woodworking Interests
    Good clean fun without losing fingers, and wrestling people away from IKEA and back to good old fashioned quality furniture.

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  1. Thanks bglendon. I've currently got it in a chest freezer, hopefully shrinking it a bit before I take the blow torch to the faceplate for the 5th time. I actually pulled the trigger and bought a grizzly to replace this one. I have a job of 8 windsors that need legs and spindles and I'm out of time. Now, just hoping I can fix it for whoever I sell it to. Again, thanks. Peter
  2. now THAT's hilarious. needing a laugh right now and the cutter is next in line if MAP gas and a good ice bath don't work. Thanks!
  3. That sounds promising. I'll put it in our chest freezer tonight. Thanks so much for taking the time to both read and respond. I truly appreciate it.
  4. Hi everyone. I have an F.E. Reed lathe, built in 1890. It has the original babbit steel bearings. A few days ago my faceplate got stuck on the spindle. (No, I didn't have my plastic washer on unfortunately.) It has happened a couple times in the past, but this time it is *truly* stuck. I have tried everything I can think of including: 1. heat 2. PB Blaster and heat 3. Liquid Wrench and heat 4. I made a flange out of hard maple and grade 8 fasteners and mounted a 1" section of pipe to it as a lever, attached it to the faceplate so that I could get leverage and torque. The lathe spindle locks by putting a pin through the cast iron frame and into the stepped flywheel. Here's where I am stuck: With the flywheel immobilized and my newly made massive torque bar, when I crank on it, the spindle actually moves separately from the flywheel (only with significant force. It definitely doesn't want to.) I've tried a more acute blow with a sledge, I've tried using wedges to help nudge it away... I've tried everything I can think of, and am truly stuck. I'm at the point now where I think I may need to find a machinist because I'm out of options. I'd truly appreciate any helpful hints. Thanks in advance, Peter
  5. Thanks Pwk5017! I really appreciate it. I had no idea the shark guard would fit the bracket. That's great news.
  6. Hi guys, I could really use some sage advice again. I have a Delta Unisaw (model 34-802) that I bought used last year. The past owner mounted a Biesemeyer 78-961 splitter. The splitter is bent and also not made for thin kerf blades. What would you recommend? I can't find a "thin kerf" splitter that would work in the current mount. 1. Is there a splitter y'all would recommend for this saw? 2. Is there are thin kerf splitter that anyone knows about or a good solution that would allow me to keep the mount that I currently have? This is what is currently on the saw: Thanks a ton! ~Peter
  7. I'm the proud new owner of a 1994 unisaw. I need to get 220volts to the garage and in lieu of hiring an electrician and negotiating with my landlord, I found this: Is this a guaranteed trigger of my renters insurance due to housefire? Is it safe? Has anyone used this instead of a rewire job? Thanks y'all.
  8. Hey guys, So I'm going to be cleaning up the saw and changing the belts this weekend. After consulting with Brendon_t I realized I have to run the saw with 220volts. I'm renting. I think I have a good chance of my landlord saying yes to me hiring an electrician to wire the garage for 220. He already knows we're interested in buying the place at some point and he's very reasonable. That said, in my google search for alternatives, wondering if there was a converter that would save me the hassle of a wiring job, I found this: Have any of you heard of anyone using something like this? Am I crazy to think it might work?
  9. Holy mackerel guys... Thank you SO much Pwk5017, wdwerker and Brendon_t. This is exactly what I was hoping a forum would be able to provide... support and mentorship for a guy in the boonies just getting back to handwork after a REALLY long time off (stopped building around 99 and just getting back in, although without it being my profession) These are super helpful, and although I'm not skilled with motors yet, I'll be thrilled to learn and will take your advice with replacing the belts and bearing. if I see signs of wear and if the bearing hasn't been replaced. My guess is is hasn't. The saw was donated to a vocational school in Maine from a fabrication shop. The school only uses sawstop technology for the safety factor, and hence I'm getting the deal of the century from craigslist. Expect a post on Tuesday night. I'll give you guys the low down on the saw, and hopefully a pic from my slowly building home shop. Again, thanks a ton.
  10. Apparently it's an "accusquare". I had NEVER seen it either. Here's their website: Thanks! yeah, it's 800, so I feel like I'm getting a steal. Thanks Pwk5017. I appreciate the info and the nudge to buy, a lot. Thanks Brendon! I had no idea about the 60hz motor issue. Your input is SUPER helpful. Thanks for taking the time to help a rookie.
  11. I'm not skilled at looking under the hood (what to look for) Any hints on what I should be looking for that may indicate I'm buying a lemon? I'm figuring I'll be replacing the blade and getting new inserts, and cast iron Is pretty straight forward. I'm not mechanically inclined though with knowing a crappy motor, or worn parts. And non-specifically, are you happy with it? Thanks for replying Brendon. Apparently it's an "accusquare". I had NEVER seen it either. Here's their website: Thanks! yeah, it's 800, so I feel like I'm getting a steal. Thanks Pwk5017. I appreciate the info and the nudge to buy, a lot.
  12. I'm hoping to purchase a Unisaw with serial number: 95B93631 I was able to figure out it was made in 1994 by the site: But, I can't find any more info. I'd really like to be able to research the saw before I buy. Can anyone help me out with some info? Anything I should watch out for? I truly appreciate any sage advice y'all have. I've attached a pic if that helps. Thanks, Peter
  13. Thanks guys. if not the "green stuff"... any personal recommendations?
  14. Curious... did you ever try the arm-r-seal since you began this post, and did if so, how does it differ in your opinion to shellac and danish oil? Couldn't see your photo that eveyone's raving about. The link is inactive.
  15. I'm just beginning to mix my own finish and could use help from some veterans on preference: I've been using Watco's natural danish oil and like it fine, but not the price if I can make it better myself. I also feel like there's *something* missing from it. Subtle, and not sure how to explain it yet. My first stab was the following: 1/3 Kleen Strip BLO 1/3 Minwax Helmsman spar urethane (gloss, as Fortner said the matte was just unneeded additives) 1/3 Kleen Strip green mineral spirits. (the white plastic container with the green lettering) Here's the weirdness: the mixture is GREEN. Weird vomit green, although tested on some scrap it looks just like Watco. The mineral spirits looks like it has white particulate in it that when shaken, dissolves into the solution, but when I let the jar sit overnight, there is a clear liquid on the bottom, some solids, and a murky liquid above. Any help? Really, any feedback is GREATLY appreciated. What is the best quality varnish to use? What is the best choice of mineral spirits?