Elroy Skimms

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About Elroy Skimms

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday November 6

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlotte, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets & Custom Furniture
    Greene & Greene
    CNC

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  1. It is entirely possible that I am using the online wood movement calculator wrong. It wouldn't be the first time I took something simple and screwed it up I did a cherry writing desk a year or two ago and that was what my calculations came back with, so I assumed that would translate here. What would be the correct range of movement to expect in a 36" panel? -E
  2. What a beautiful desk! I'm curious, how did you address wood movement with so many screws in both long sides of the desk? I would assume somewhere between 1/4-1/2" in potential movement on that top. Are the holes in the poplar mounting brackets oversized to allow the bolt to move? -E
  3. +1 to this advice I use 6 casters on my 5' x 10' torsion box, only because I don't want the leading caster to get stuck in an expansion joint on the garage floor. The middle casters don't add to the rigidity. More cross members and the right glue will do the trick. -E
  4. Welcome! Which side of "outside of Charlotte" are you? I'm on the Union County side and always looking for people to talk shop with. -E
  5. For a lot of GFCI installs, there is one GFCI and the rest of the outlets are downstream from it, so you essentially get GFCI protection on the entire line of outlets. It's cheaper than installing a GFCI on every outlet. But if you plug your vac into any outlet in the chain, you are still running it on the same GFCI, even if you aren't using the exact same outlet. This is the best advice here. It could be just a bad GFCI, which is easy to replace. Or it could be that the vac is trying to kill you (or burn your house down). There is no harm in replacing the GFCI, they are easy to swap out and only a few bucks at the hardware store. But don't take it out and put a regular outlet in its place. If replacing the GFCI doesn't solve the problem, your shop vac might be trying to murder you and I would suggest repairing or replacing it. -E
  6. +1 for upgrading the table saw. Two years ago I upgraded from a job site table saw to a Ridgid R4512 and that was the right move for my workload. I don't have a jointer yet because I cut a lot of sheet goods and jointers aren't useful for that I have a local friend with a jointer and I can bring lumber to his garage when I need to use it Even if sheet goods isn't real woodworking (spoken in jest), you would still need a better table saw when you graduate to mahogany, walnut, and other "real" wood. A jointer helps you then but doesn't do anything for you now. A table saw helps you now and will still be helpful in the future. -E
  7. If you are painting with latex (or something similarly flexible), caulk would be fine. However, if you are using a finish that will cure hard, applying that over a flexible filler like caulk will lead to cracking. Ask me how I know... Though as I re-read this, I see that his suggestion is for COLORED caulk, which implies it would go on AFTER the paint, which would work just fine. Squishy stuff on the outside, hardstuff on the inside. It's like a backwards blow pop. -E
  8. I did a "Build Your Own CNC" (https://buildyourcnc.com/) kit for a 5'x10' monster. Total cost was under $6,000 for everything including the computer and software to run it. However, I'm dealing with some flex issues that a lot of other users don't seem to have a problem with. Some people are able to cut 3/4" cabinet ply with a single pass but I have to take 2-3 passes, which really slows down the process. If I could do it again, I would stick with something with a more rigid aluminum frame. -E
  9. Just one more person jumping on the Ridgid bandwagon. I have the R4512 which sells for $550 brand new (thought it looks like they stopped selling it in the last couple of months). It comes pre-wired for 120V and is easily rewired for 240V. That means you can get one and use it out of the box and make stuff while you save the money for the electrical work, rather than paying for the electrical first and waiting to use the tool. Also, if you find a used one for cheap, I have the original fence for mine that I never took out of the box. If you need the parts, I'll give you a really good deal -E
  10. I have the Incra fence with the 52" extension on my table saw. It takes a few hours of working to get used to the extra step of loosening and tightening the nut on the fence every time you move it. That was one of the issues that led our friendly neighborhood Wood Whisperer to get rid of his. It was not a deal breaker for me though and I don't regret the fence purchase at all. I picked up an order making mold boxes for homemade soaps and I needed something that was perfectly repeatable. This was just the ticket. I've added a router table on the right extension wing of my table saw and Wonder Fence upgrade for the router. I've found that the repeatability of the Incra with a router table is where it really shines. There's no way I could ever set a Biesemeyer fence for a router, move it, and then bring the fence back to the exact same spot again within .001". With the Incra, I can do that all day long. -E
  11. The top of the board would be clamped to the surface. The foam padding would be framed with wood to allow good clamping pressure. -E
  12. Actually, I have a flight to Philly later this week and a short stop in DC. I wonder if the Craigslist seller could get that past TSA? -E
  13. Buying a lathe might be a step backwards though in terms of budget Still cheaper than a Festool CT26! -E
  14. I don't keep extra stock in the garage either, but if I have 10 sheets for a job, they gotta go somewhere while I am working. I have plenty of sawhorses and stands available to me. The problem is finding a 4x8 space to set them up. If the weather cooperates this weekend, I'm going to give this a whirl and see how it goes. If things go badly, that's why I have disability insurance! -E
  15. Nice! It will also fit my Kreg. I mean. I don't use pocket holes. Pocket holes are for losers. @Brendon_t - I can buy yours if it is sitting idle and wasting space in your shop. PM me the amount and I'll PayPal it. -E