• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

633 Excellent

About Isaac

  • Rank
    Master Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, Hobbyist, Practical, cabinetry, turning,

Recent Profile Visitors

3748 profile views
  1. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    In for about a month, still unpacking. I’ve got a bigger space with better lighting and power options. Still fairly low ceilings, but once I’m properly settled, I’m looking forward to having tools far enough apart to help keep things a bit cleaner.
  2. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    Yeah, I've not done much reclaiming. I've got a lot of projects around the new house, so I'm happy to have these boards drying out in the interim. Right now, after drying, I'm thinking I could laminate them to create some 1.5" final thickness stock pretty easily. Ripping between the fastener holes, I can get around 4" or 5" wide hole-free stock I believe. Though, for a farmhouse table top, I'd probably fill and leave them, for character.
  3. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    Ha! That is actually what I did with it, just shoveled it into the mulch.
  4. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    So I had all this scrap wood left from the previous owners roof deck. I was planning to toss it, but decided to plane a scrap. I assumed it was just garbage pressure treated pine, but it turned out to be cedar. I ran it through my planer. Took a bit of work going back and forth, but I now have a huge pile of cedar. I'm thinking I can make a farmhouse style table with it. I've got it stickered in my garage for drying.
  5. A couple months back I reached out to Oneida asking them about their machines in this range, and comparing them to the options available from Laguna and Grizzly. I was a bit disappointed with the response. I was expecting some specific reason they felt their machines were superior, given the significant price premium, but the only thing they mentioned was that they manufacturer in the USA. Didn't really help with my decision making process (which is still on going, as I'm moving in about 10 days).
  6. Agree with everyone else here, Gloss first, then lower sheen top coat. I just want to mention I have seen this direction come directly from the manufacturers of at least a few products. So in that sense, it is not just our common wisdom, but something "blessed" by the very people who supply the product. That is enough for me.
  7. I've drifted this direction as well. I also have a small jointer. Trying to square up a huge (long) board theoretically will maximize your material, but long boards can be heavy and difficult to join, and if the board is bowed or curved you just loose too much material thickness, which tends to be a more critical dimension than length (if you plan accordingly). I rough cut to length (typically about 6 inches long, to leave plenty of room for snipe and minor end splitting). Join two parallel edges, plane, and then table saw rip for a four square board that is glue ready. bigger picture, one of the most important things is to try and do all your stock on the planer at one time, because you generally want all of your 3/4" material to be exactly the same amount of deviation from true 3/4". If it is all 2% thick or thin, it won't matter, but it will matter if you plane some now, and plane some later, and wind up with a mixture of boards that are slightly thinner or thicker.
  8. I agree. The best project to try dovetails on is one that only has a few of them. Diving right into something with 20 dovetailed drawers is really asking a lot of yourself. But something simpler, even it goes poorly, you aren't out much material or time if you decide to scrap it and start over.
  9. The flip side here is that shellac is very repairable. Scratches and marks in the finish and such can be readily repaired by applying more shellac.
  10. Actually I think you can look to lawn care products for this one. This is is out of stock, but you get the idea. we had one years ago, worked great for holding plastic bags open while you tossed in leaves. They key is it is NOT a fixed cylinder, if it was, it would be a pain to slide the bag over. Instead, it is a rolled sheet. You roll it tight, insert it into the bag, and then release it and it unfurls until it pulls the bag taught. It should line the inside of a drum quite well.
  11. What is the purpose of the flip top? What electronics need this sort of access? I built something like that on a small box. One problem is the top piece can warp, or just change seasonally, resulting in the joint between the top and false drawer front not always being a true 90 degrees. When that happens, you’ll have trouble keeping the two halves nicely aligned, as they may not move/warp to the same extent. It also means you can’t store anything on top of the unit. Many cabinets look nice with a vase or similar accent object on top. If you want to procceed with this direction, I’d suggest removing the middle joint and making the top one single piece, rather than two distinct halves.
  12. Was thinking the same thing. Do you start with a hatchet and bow saw and try to get something vaguely square and clean so that it can be worked with your proper woodworking tools?
  13. For the piston action, you can shorten the top of back piece to allow air to escape. Eric recommended that to me a few years ago. I have a cabinet with the same issue, though I never got around to doing anything to address it.
  14. Its all good. I was just surprised to be questioned on it so much when it is pretty widely held belief, so it is not just my belief. On the other hand, I'm not just parroting someone else here, I've already made a specific case for why I think it is notably inferior connection to other common options. A dowel jig is cheaper than a biscuit joiner. It is better than nothing. No one is disputing that.
  15. I just chose Marc because this is his site. If you google around you'll dig up lots of articles from various magazines and such making similar claims to Marc. If you dig even harder, you'll probably find someone claiming biscuits are the strongest connection available. I've already made my case. I think a single biscuit has poor grain orientation for a rail and stile joint compared to common alternatives. Adding a second biscuit will strengthen the joint, but doing so does add time and you certainly need to get the depth right to get a good fit.