Isaac

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About Isaac

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    Master Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Illinois
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, Hobbyist, Practical, cabinetry, turning,

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  1. I picked up the veritas sharpening Mk 2 system. Trying to improve my sharpening consistency, quality, and speed. First impression, I really like the Cam system that lets you switch to adding a micro bevel quickly. once I get all my blades switched over to these angles, it should be really nice working with it.
  2. Thanks Chet, Yeah it is a very robust design, I can definitely see it lasting many years, and with the simple smooth faced design, refinishing, if ever necessary would be very doable. Yup, same one. She outgrew the boat pretty fast, so now it is just a showcase piece/stuffed animal holder in of our rooms.
  3. Hey all, This will be sort of quick project journal on two recent bed projects I've completed. The first is a house bed I made for 1 year old daughter. We already had the extra queen mattress, so that determined the size, and my wife wanted something close to the ground so my daughter could climb into it right from the start. Over the summer I posted about salvaging a large number of cedar boards from an old deck. I planed the boards down, tossed the excessively deteriorated ones, and dried the others in my garage for about 4 months, which was sufficient for the approximately 1 inch thick boards to dry out. Sorry, I didn't capture many shots of the construction, but it involved making two rectangular sub frames which are bolted together and in turn have the two end A-Frames bolted to them. Initially I planned to construct everything with strategic bolted connections, to allow for disassembly, and I mostly carried that through to the end. However, as I got further into the project, I realized the cedar material really was quite soft, and this probably won't be a hand me down type bed, but should be fun for my daughter none the less. This also helped me decide on the antique white paint, which matches a couple other items in her room. This also reduced the need to do as much sanding, as I was truly in a hurry as she was rapidly outgrowing her crib! This was the original version: However, after putting it to use, my wife complained that the horizontal bar made it awkward to enter and exit the bed. She was right. Taking that horizontal bar out completely wasn't really an option, as it provided stability to the rest of the bed frame, so I came up with this modification (bonus points for spotting my cats tail!): The second bed was needed for guests. I looked into buying a simple metal frame, but online review scared me away from that option and decided to come up with something simple. I settled on this platform design to keep the bed relatively low to the ground and eliminate the need for a box spring. I selected cherry for its universal appeal. I didn't have any 16/4 Cherry for the legs, so they are made of four 4/4 plies laminated together, to a final thickness of about 3 1/2 inches. I decided to use floating tenon joints on the end frames. I was able to use a dowel jig on the ends of the long rail pieces, which was less awkward than trying to do them by hand or by router. For the mortises on the legs, I used hand tools. Gluing up the eccentric rail to leg connections proved to be more challenging than anticipated. I do not have any bar clamps that can cover the required 6+ feet, so I had to use strap clamps. However, the straps do not apply their force solely down the length of the rail, as a result, the legs wanted to rotate. I solved this problem by using cutting 2x4 filler boards to balance the load. I cut the 2x4 a tiny amount longer than the rail, which ensured a closed joint on the show, outside face. Next step was assembling the frame, and gluing on pine laminations for the inner slat support. I decided to finish the bed with 3 coats of gloss Enduro Var and 1 coat of Satin Next moving the bed to its final location: Close ups of some details: I chamfered all the edges with a block plane and used non-mortising hardware, which I already had on hand. They are very strong. Chamfered Corners: And the final shot: Overall I'm happy with how both beds turned out. I was able to complete them in a timely manner, minimized waste (all salvaged A LOT of material for my daughters bed), and now my daughter and visiting parents have a place to sleep! Thanks for taking a look!
  4. Yup, I've used those before, they were very good. Just like him, I used my self centering dowel jig to drill the perfect centered and parallel holes into the shelf, which is the only real challenge.
  5. I've got the 6" helical cut tech jointer. It is about exactly what you'd expect for the size and price. I can't really knock it for not being a massive 8" jointer with a 72" bed, I didn't pay that much! I'd say a major factor when it comes to jointers is thinking about your use cases. If you want to make dining tables with a bunch of big wide and long boards edge laminated, this tool isn't going to cut it. If you are doing cutting boards, keepsake boxes, and other things with pieces that are about 4 feet long, or shorter, you probably get a lot done with this sort of jointer.
  6. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    In for about a month, still unpacking. I’ve got a bigger space with better lighting and power options. Still fairly low ceilings, but once I’m properly settled, I’m looking forward to having tools far enough apart to help keep things a bit cleaner.
  7. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    Yeah, I've not done much reclaiming. I've got a lot of projects around the new house, so I'm happy to have these boards drying out in the interim. Right now, after drying, I'm thinking I could laminate them to create some 1.5" final thickness stock pretty easily. Ripping between the fastener holes, I can get around 4" or 5" wide hole-free stock I believe. Though, for a farmhouse table top, I'd probably fill and leave them, for character.
  8. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    Ha! That is actually what I did with it, just shoveled it into the mulch.
  9. Isaac

    Scrap cedar

    So I had all this scrap wood left from the previous owners roof deck. I was planning to toss it, but decided to plane a scrap. I assumed it was just garbage pressure treated pine, but it turned out to be cedar. I ran it through my planer. Took a bit of work going back and forth, but I now have a huge pile of cedar. I'm thinking I can make a farmhouse style table with it. I've got it stickered in my garage for drying.
  10. A couple months back I reached out to Oneida asking them about their machines in this range, and comparing them to the options available from Laguna and Grizzly. I was a bit disappointed with the response. I was expecting some specific reason they felt their machines were superior, given the significant price premium, but the only thing they mentioned was that they manufacturer in the USA. Didn't really help with my decision making process (which is still on going, as I'm moving in about 10 days).
  11. Agree with everyone else here, Gloss first, then lower sheen top coat. I just want to mention I have seen this direction come directly from the manufacturers of at least a few products. So in that sense, it is not just our common wisdom, but something "blessed" by the very people who supply the product. That is enough for me.
  12. I've drifted this direction as well. I also have a small jointer. Trying to square up a huge (long) board theoretically will maximize your material, but long boards can be heavy and difficult to join, and if the board is bowed or curved you just loose too much material thickness, which tends to be a more critical dimension than length (if you plan accordingly). I rough cut to length (typically about 6 inches long, to leave plenty of room for snipe and minor end splitting). Join two parallel edges, plane, and then table saw rip for a four square board that is glue ready. bigger picture, one of the most important things is to try and do all your stock on the planer at one time, because you generally want all of your 3/4" material to be exactly the same amount of deviation from true 3/4". If it is all 2% thick or thin, it won't matter, but it will matter if you plane some now, and plane some later, and wind up with a mixture of boards that are slightly thinner or thicker.
  13. I agree. The best project to try dovetails on is one that only has a few of them. Diving right into something with 20 dovetailed drawers is really asking a lot of yourself. But something simpler, even it goes poorly, you aren't out much material or time if you decide to scrap it and start over.
  14. The flip side here is that shellac is very repairable. Scratches and marks in the finish and such can be readily repaired by applying more shellac.
  15. Actually I think you can look to lawn care products for this one. This is is out of stock, but you get the idea. https://www.essentialhardware.com/lawson-products-90427-lawn-and-yard-waste-funnel-twin-black-150999.html we had one years ago, worked great for holding plastic bags open while you tossed in leaves. They key is it is NOT a fixed cylinder, if it was, it would be a pain to slide the bag over. Instead, it is a rolled sheet. You roll it tight, insert it into the bag, and then release it and it unfurls until it pulls the bag taught. It should line the inside of a drum quite well.