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About Isaac

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    Furniture, Hobbyist, Practical, cabinetry, turning,

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  1. Isaac

    Glue-Up Advice

    Even if the material is uniformly dry, planing can release some internal stresses in the material, it isn't a bad idea to do the removal in two steps as you've suggested.
  2. There are many functional epoxies. Many woodworkers who anticipate working with a lot of epoxy use the west system, which has both good performance and is easy to use. I don't use much epoxy in my work, yet, so I have not invested in the west system and have used several systems successfully. Here is one: The key to epoxy is precisely following the mixing instructions, in particular, get the ratio dead on, and do a very good job mixing. Poorly eyeballing the ratio or insufficient mixing are the recipe for having gummy epoxy that doesn't harden, or takes a very long time to harden, and might have weak spots. Try to avoid bubbles in the mix and if you get bubbles, these can sometimes be gently coaxed out by heating the epoxy with a blow drier or heat gun.
  3. Isaac

    White Flaky Spots After Polyurethane

    Yup. I think the problem is not in the poly, it is what’s underneath. What stripper did you use? Did you wash the stripper away with water? Some strippers have to neutralized. How long did it dry before staining? If there is moisture or stripper still in the wood it’s a problem.
  4. Since you are discussing it, you might consider reviewing Marc (The Wood Whisperer) 's review of various wiping varnish options. He doesn't give a thumbs up/thumbs down rating, but discusses the pros and cons of each. Waterlox and Arm-R-Seal are two of the products he specifically reviews, so you might decide you'd prefer Arm-R-Seal anyways. Here is the link: It is a really good one.
  5. On the positive side, the majority of this miter is going away, since it will be removed for the sink cutout, so just try to really nail the ends that will remain when all is said and done.
  6. At least it is just a big flat surface. It is really not that hard to strip or sand down a big surface like that. Much more annoying if it includes all kinds of interior corners and crevices which are harder to clear out.
  7. I might have missed it, but one other key point about the benefits of going with a miter here is that with the original butt joint, that material at the back of the corner would have very little strength since it would be bending against the grain instead of along the grain direction. If someone drops a heavy pot or a turkey in that sink it could crack the counter along the grain lines.
  8. I have a different model by Shinwa I like that lock is on the end of the handle, so it can rest flush on either face. As far as the above tool, boat building has a lot of internal corners, so I can imagine the appeal of not having the arm extending beyond the vertex, but I agree a lock seems appropriate.
  9. Isaac

    Box Joint Aggravation

    I have the PC jig. It does work well, though I've used it for dovetails not box joints, but the performance should be very similar. That being said, I've gone the opposite way as Chestnut, I started with the jig and had good results, but now I don't use it and I go for hand cut, for the challenge/enjoyment. That being said, my hand cut joints aren't immaculate and I'm currently not building bureau dressers with 10 dovetailed drawers. If you are making a single drawer, hand cut doesn't take much more time/effort than the jig. Obviously the jig pays dividends if you are making multiple, identical drawers. Come to think of it, I might sell the jig. That way I can regret it sometime in the future!
  10. Isaac

    Hand stitched rasps

    I've got the mechanical Narex rasps. They do leave grooves in some cases, but I still find them to be functional tools. For me, I use them more for rough shaping, and smooth things over with files or sanding and that seems to suffice. It is like everything else in this hobby, there is always more than one way to do things, and there is always a more expensive option out there.
  11. Isaac

    Finishing the finish

    That is about the same for all oil based urethane/polyurethane finishes isn't it? are there some that fully cure in less than 30 days, per manufacturer instructions?
  12. Isaac


    Doesn't look that bad really, from this limited photograph. Looks to have some character. A full blown refinishing job typically involves either chemically stripping, sanding or both. Fair warning, if you sand around those exposed, raised nail heads, they will likely become shiny silver and will catch and eat up the sand paper.
  13. MDF is stable, but has some serious strength drawbacks. It is very heavy, and because it lacks any long fibers, it can be quite brittle. Probably not too likely, but if impacted, it could fracture along some random line. In that scenario you'd be relying on the veneer to hold it all together.
  14. Isaac

    Pre-finishing advice

    Thanks very much. I think I will do my best to avoid the end grain gluing as well. I'm excited to give this a shot.