Scooter67

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About Scooter67

  • Birthday 07/07/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Syracuse, New York
  • Woodworking Interests
    I would like to make simple crafts like bookcases, storage cabinets, and toy chests. Things like that, no to complicated or difficult.

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    sdl67bks@yahoo.com

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  1. I am making a barn for my daughter's little toy horses and with the same as all my products the edges are not perfectly square, not really close enough for government work either. I think I can shave it down with a hand plane but before I ruin my planes edges, can I use my plane on plywood? Will the resin used in plywood, would they dull my blades? I am not worried about shaving the wood, just how the adhesive resins will effect my plane's blade.
  2. Converting from Imperial to Metric is not the easiest thing to do. Now 6mm is equal to .245" yet 12 mm is not the closest to .500", 13mm is the closest. It can get a little confusing. The United States has not switch mainly because it would cost most industries a lot to change. Where I work, we use both, imperial for products in the United States and for the items sold in Europe and Asia is all in metric. I know I am late in this conversation. I am not sure which is better. I like the fact that metric is all factors of ten but growing up with imperial it is easier for me to look at something and say it is 1/8, 1/4, or 1/2". It is a toss up of what is easier. Depends on what you were taught, just my opinion. What is difficult for me is rabbeting a 12mm edge with a 1/2" bit to join two 12mm boards. It would nice if Woodcrafters would start selling metric bits if we in the United States are going to continue to get lumber from Asia. Of course with my hack jobs it may not really matter to much.
  3. Thanks Don. I think I understand you correctly. I will let you know how this comes out. It is something I will be working on up til Christmas.
  4. Thanks everyone. I think I will use the dadoes and rabbet ends for my organizer. Jack, I have no idea what corner glue blocks are. I think the dovetail would work but I was wondering how to get the dovetail end on the long sliding joint. If I am using 18mm thickness plywood for the legs and 12mm for the top and middle shelf. How deep should I be making the dado cuts for these? My plans call for a 1/4" deep (6mm) dadoes. Is this to shallow. I have the plywood boards cut to width but no to length yet. Again, thanks for all you help. Scott
  5. I will have to look and see what a Kreg Jig is. I am attaching some pics of a design idea on using dovetails for a shelf type toy organizer. I should have got some pics of what the whole things looks like. I am hoping everyone gets the idea of what I am trying to do. I know I can cut the dovetail groove okay but one the board that will be a support, how would you cut the dovetail so that only half the thickness of a board is cut at a time? I do not have a router table yet.
  6. The glue seems strong but I am not sure how strong and I am afraid to nail on the ends of plywood because it might separate the layers. I was thinking maybe small screws like #2 or #4 size.
  7. I do not have a nailer but I was thinking of nailing that with brads but at a small angle like Toe Nailing. I was also thinking that the edges will be see, that may be I can use small wood screws or even some threaded wood inserts. I know yellow glue like Titebond II is pretty strong but will it hold up to the rough play of an 8 year old. If this barn comes out decent, the plan is to build a doll house.
  8. I am doing a couple of projects using Baltic Birch plywood. I am building a toy organizer, a barn for my daughter's play horses, and a storage cabinet for some tools. I am using rabbit joints on some things and dado cuts on other pieces where the two pieces are not at the edges. I also am thinking about making drawers and using some dovetails. My question is while I am using glue to help join the edges what other things should I be using, nails or screws? Can I use wood screws with pilot holes into the edges of plywood without fear of splitting the wood, the same with screws? The barn will get some punishment from my 7 year old so the sides need to be secured tightly. I am making it out of 1/2" plywood or what Russia has labeled 12mm thick.
  9. home Center stock definitely has gone down hill. I will be looking around for better lumber places. Right now I am working with plywood for a toy organizer and MDF for a bookcase that I will paint. I have been thinking about joining the "Guild" here and getting involved with the workbench project. The only holding me back is the cost. These days things are pretty tight. Thanks for all the feed back.
  10. Thanks for the advice. I have tried to contact some local cabinet makers to see if they would take some lumber and give it a milling so edges are parallel and square. So far, no go. I will look for other places that sell better stock than home centers. One thing though, because I am inexperienced at working with wood, I get nervous about spending money on expensive wood then ruining it because of stupid mistakes. I wish there were schools in my area that teach basics but nothing around here.
  11. I have been thinking of joining but I am new to woodworking and if it is not made out of plywood or MDF with straight edges then my building of projects is limited. I look at the pine boards or any wood at a Home Center and they are always badly warped or cupped. I have a couple of hand planes that I have never used. I do not have a planer or jointer to square up boards. I am not sure where to get good quality wood or wood I should be using for projects. My only power tools are a table saw, jigsaw, and router. I have a couple of saw horses I made out of two by fours. There are things I would like to make but inexperience and lack of tools have kept me from doing much. How can the guild help me with these problems, especially the getting and squaring lumber task?
  12. I think this is the route I am going to take. My daughter is not into the whole collecting idea. She heard me say I would build her one so all she really cares is that I build one and she can play with it. I just wanted to build one that is played with and people go "hey, you did that...cool!". I need to start planning and figure out dimensions. Thank you for the help.
  13. I also did a google search. I even got to a doll house making a website but it would never take me to a link title scratch building. I would not mind making a Doll house based on a real house and build it like a real house would be built but that is me. My wife thinks we should just make a plain looking one, paint the walls and get some Barbie furniture. I do not think my daughter really cares. May be when she gets to be in her later teens then get into the collecting mode and I can build a more Victorian type house. I have not found a good scale for a Barbie house to make a good plan. Using a 3D design software will make it fun.
  14. Has anyone here made their own doll house for their daughter? My daughter is wanting me to make her a doll house. My wife and I are not sure on how or even a good scale. My wife says it should be for a Barbie size and I am leaning for a small size doll. My big concern is how to design and then make it. I keep wanting to build it the way a real house is built by sheating, studs, and wall board. That is very time consuming. I was wondering if anyone has any idea on where I can find a good set of plans or if anyone has attempted something like this. All comments are welcome!
  15. I still have not started my toy organizer for my daughter. I keep adding and deleting from from plans. I am still thinking of what materials to use. Do I use dimensional lumber like 1X12's or plywood or MDF? I looked into MDF and it is pretty cheap compared to plywood and I research how to fasten MDF together, using comfirmat screws or I have had success with those brass inserts but I do not think it has the strength to hold up to generations of kids. I have considered dimensional lumber like 1X12's but the problem here is I do not have a planer or joiner also, one piece in my design needs to be at least 13" wide. Being 13" wide I would need to use a biscuit and glue two 1x12 together and then rip down to 13". I do not have a biscuit joiner either. So plywood is my best option so far. I did some research and Baltic Birch has gotten expensive, $45.00 to $60.00 a sheet of 5x5 plywood from a lumber yard and not from Lowes or Home Depot. My fear is that I will screw things up, which I normally do, and I spent that much money and ruined the project to the point I need to get more. I have a great thinking mind to solve problems but most of the time I cannot get my hands to work with the mind. They are always three steps back and I usually end up cutting something to small or on the wrong side. My plan now is to get the Baltic Birch plywood, cut two 12" side supports, cut a 13" wide board, then add two dadoes on the underside of the 13" wide top for the two supports. Then about 10" down from the top on both support sides I will add a dado on each side for a 12" wide shelf. To hide the plywood I was thinking about adding a false front by using wood strips but if I am going to paint this with latex colored paint, will I need to add a false front or will the paint cover the plywood look? I will try and post pictures of my design this week.