Jonathan McCully

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Everything posted by Jonathan McCully

  1. That’s a great idea. Was just trying to keep all the power tools along the same wall to keep in line with the DC, but definitely makes more sense to have the lumber storage near the door where I’m bringing it in.
  2. Not sure I’m quite settled on anything yet at the moment, other than that I’m building a 30 x 40 shop. For instance, now I’m considering moving the DC room to the opposite end of the back of the shop so that I can have the wall with the windows to give natural light for my assembly and hand tool work rather than the power tools. I’m trying to keep the power tools on a straight run from the DC. When I’ve envisioned running power through the ceiling, I’ve seen outlets on the ceiling with extension cords or reels dropped down to the tools. Looking at your setup, I like that look far better and may definitely consider someone like that.
  3. Thanks for the thoughts Mark. Hadn’t thought about the floor outlets being on a separate circuit. Not a bad idea and one to explore. Ive thought about a false ceiling too. Not sure what that cost would be but if it’s not too unreasonable, it may be the best way to go, especially as that would allow me to run ducting in the ceiling and be able to change things in the future if desired. Not too worried about cold down here, but want to keep insulated from the outside heat for sure.
  4. So we’re getting a bit closer to the start of this build. To catch you up, I’m building a 1200sq ft, wood framed shop dedicated solely to woodworking. Ceiling height will be 14’ for the possibility of parking RVs or boats in the building should I ever wish to sell the property (much more common toys down here than table saws and jointers). I’m taking @gee-dub’s idea and putting a 3/4 height wall about 8’ from the back wall to allow for a space for finishing. I’ll be running some electrical through the slab to keep from having to hang electrical cords down from 14’, so I’ve been playing with the layout a bit. Obviously things tend to change over time as you work in a shop, but want to at least get to where I have an idea of where outlets should be placed in the floor. Based on some suggestions given in another current thread, here is what I have. Some of the tools are existing, some are purchases as soon as the shop is built, and others are sized for what I hope will be upgrades in the future. As always, I welcome thoughts, suggestions, and critiques.
  5. Thanks for the info on these. Picked up the last two packs of them at my local HD today.
  6. Don't think I've ever noticed the annual Bessey clamp sale at HD. I'll have to keep an eye out for next year.
  7. I'm assuming it has something to do with chopsticks...Seems everyone is getting into those these days? I tend to prefer my fork and knife.
  8. Love the additional detail of the cross grain ends. And thanks for the info regarding creep. I'm one of those who wasn't aware of it, but I tend to just use Titebond 3 for all my work and don't tend to have too many issues yet.
  9. Love this idea. Definitely keeping it for potential use in my new shop.
  10. I can respect that. It’s an absolutely incredible looking chair.
  11. You should definitely charge what your time and talent is worth. No complaints from me.
  12. Just out of curiosity, what do you sell those chairs for?
  13. Absolutely gorgeous chair. I hope that my skills allow me to build something of that quality someday. Seems long a far off dream to me right now.
  14. Since @Chet doesn’t trust me, here’s a picture. I try to refrain from posting pornographic images as much as possible, but sometimes my hands get tied.
  15. Only tool I received this year was a Lie-Nielsen tapered tenon saw. Almost too beautiful to put to use, but alas, those tenons need cut. Was incredibly thankful to have receive it.
  16. I love my EC 150. I think you'll really enjoy it John
  17. Geometry was never my strong suit in school, and perhaps if I’d known then that I would pick up woodworking later in life, I might have paid more attention. As I did not, I’m struggling with determining the round-over of my existing header board. I’m extending the header in order to affix a barn door and would like to match the existing header as much as is possible. I have a 1/4” round over bit that I ran a piece of scrap through, and the existing header definitely has a smaller radius than that, but I’d rather figure it out mathematically rather than buying multiple smaller bits and using trial and error. Anyone have any help for me here?
  18. Can you explain to me why the bottom rail should be wider than the top and why they can’t just be the same width?
  19. Finally got back to this after another stretch of days on service in the hospital and having family for Thanksgiving. This was my first attempt at making mortises, so I did a fair amount of practice before working on the actual workpiece. Marc’s new book was really helpful to me in setting this up and getting it cut. Laid out the mortises on both boards simultaneously to limit errors. The mortises are 1.5” deep, 3” long, and 1/2” wide. The center rails of the barn door will join into the stiles in these mortises. Only have a 1/4” spiral up cut, so had to take two passes. Feel like the result was acceptable for my first time and left just a small amount to be chiseled out to compete the mortises. Pretty happy overall, but would definitely take any tips you all have for the future.
  20. Need to build some of these this winter in preparation for spring. Any tips that you or any of the other guys have for them? Did you raise them up on legs or just build them over the ground? What type of wood did you use?
  21. Yes, definitely have kids, and they’ll do plenty to mess up the home. I’d just rather not contribute to it. Thanks for the info on the plug cutter. I haven’t seen one of those before. Might be a good way to go.
  22. I like the idea of screws and plugs. Have never worked with plugs before, so will need to understand that. Do I countersink the screw and then fill the hole with a small dowel plug? I agree that it won't be seen too much and that helps. The rail itself doesn't sit flush with the header, so if one looks closely, you'd still be able to see the screws, even if you just painted over the top of them. Ultimately, this is a brand new home, and I want any modifications that I make to look really nice.
  23. I appreciate the suggestions Coop, however, my header and door isn’t destined to have a rustic look. The header board will be painted white and I’d rather not have exposed hardware other than the rail.
  24. Not sure if this is the best place to post this, but I’ll go ahead anyway. I’m still working on my barn door. The progress has been slow of late as my co-worker, whose shop I’ve been working in, and I have had opposite schedules really limiting the time I have to work on it. I’ll continue to post the progress on that in my project journal. This question is more related to the extension of the header board that I need to fasten to the wall. I’ve recently acquired my barn door hardware and will be attaching the rail through the header and into the studs of the wall, however, this rail will be attached in the upper 1/3 of the board and I’m curious about the best way to attach the bottom as I don’t want there to be a gap between the header and the drywall. Is there an adhesive that I should think about using on the back of the header board? How do builders typically attach header board without leaving visible screws? Any help would be amazing. I appreciate you guy as always.