Jonathan McCully

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Posts posted by Jonathan McCully

  1. Was just watching Marc’s video about applying Rubio as I’m preparing to do that with my barn door, and he talks about using a white buffing pad with his ROS. That seems a smart way to be able to buff the surface of a large project more quickly and I was interested in trying it out. He mentioned that he uses the Festool brand, but was wondering if any of you use something different and where you purchase from. Thanks.

  2. On 1/16/2018 at 8:33 AM, Chestnut said:

    I swore i saw someone just using the cloth back from a dust collector on the tail end of the 735.

    Like this

    except you could use some 4" hose so it's not in the way as much. 2.5" hose will work but 4 will allow the planer to collect better.

    This was the exact setup I used for several years until my bag snagged on a rough edge and ripped. Now I connect it to my mobile DC

  3. Just for some additional info, I thought I'd add an order I recently placed with Bell Forrest. I bought a total of 370 bf of soft maple and cherry and they charged me $135 to make it S3S. Seemed a small cost to me compared to the amount of time it would take me to mill all of that with my small jointer and lunchbox planer. I'm hoping it comes straight and flat, and can definitely see the benefit in doing it yourself to avoid some of those changes.

    • Like 1
  4. On 4/15/2022 at 3:41 PM, Chestnut said:

    Saving the best for last....DSC_6568-01.thumb.jpeg.7210b838ec54c022a728b48218f06176.jpeg

    Blue Spruce bevel gauge. I've been wating the end locking gauges for a while, figured i'd put some tools like this on my gift list as they are as nice to give as they are to recieve. Maybe not pay for though.

    I've picked up a few things from Blue Spruce over the years. Love the quality of the tools they make. A bit more pricey than others, but worth the additional cost in my opinion.

  5. 11 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Looking back at your plan drawing, I see the t&g panels are vertical. If I were building this, I would glue the boards together to make a solid panel, and either cut a tongue around it to fit an oversized groove in the frame, typical raised panel style (no glue), or lay it into a rabbet from the back side. 

    The reason I would avoid the single domino tenon per board idea is that each board is then free to cup, and the t&g on the edge won't do much to prevent that.  If you don't glue the t&g edges to each other, you risk shrinkage that could open random gaps in the panel. Seems easier to keep the shrinkage less obvious around the edge of the frame. I suspect that is the reason raised panels usually have a wide bevel or cove shape, as they would obscure the changing size of the panel better than a squared corder tongue would.

    I like the idea of gluing them up into a large panel rather than using the t&g and then perhaps putting a wide bevel on the insertion into the stiles with a deep groove. Been reading my Understanding Wood a bit tonight trying to understand this issue and that seems to be the way to go. Unfortunately, I’ve already cut most of these board to length to fit the frame, so a tongue on the end grain of the vertical boards or rabbeting to the back aren’t doable. Would having the boards as a large panel joined to the rails with dominos resist cupping where a single domino per board would not?

  6. 5 minutes ago, Coop said:

    No glue should be fine.

    Is that “no, glue should be fine” or “no glue should be fine” :D

    The diagonal should be 1/2” in thickness which allows it to rest on the panels flush with the frame. I was planning to use dominos to attach that into the frame as well, two on each end. I like the  dowel suggestion with a contrasting wood, but think I might use that on the half lap corners of the frame rather than on the diagonal. 
     

    I really appreciate everyone’s advise on this project. I really like being able to try and design something myself and work through the challenges rather than just following a plan to the T. Not sure that seeking advice is the primary focus of these journal’s but hopefully someday I’ll be skilled enough to be able to just walk you through a project and maybe teach you something.

  7. 3 hours ago, Coop said:

    I would also attach the panel boards to the rails with a single Domino in the center of the ends.

    This was my plan. Can I glue the dominos in to the rails and panel boards or should I just leave them loose?

    Sorry if these questions seem a bit elementary. I’m still trying to understand the best ways to design accounting for movement.

  8. 15 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

    Wood moves across the grain far more than along it. Concentrate your efforts on managing the joints where pieces are perpendicular to one another.

    Makes sense. The perpendicular joint is the domino joining the panel board into the rail. Is gluing that domino into the mortise on the rail going to be problematic, even if I make those mortises slightly oversized? And do I need to cut my panel boards slightly undersized to allow for the movement of the rails into the panels? If so, how would I do that without it looking like a gap?

  9. I'm getting ready to prepare all of my panel boards for this project, and of course, I listen to a Wood Talk podcast that has me thinking about wood movement and want to make sure I've thought this through well. The comment that was made was that it's a negative thing to put solid wood boards within a solid wood frame, which is what I'm doing. I've planned to tongue and groove my panel boards together without gluing to allow for movement along the long grain. I also plan to tongue both long edges of the end boards of the panel to allow them to slot into a dado in the stiles. These boards will then be glued into the rails with dominos. Does this sound like it will be problematic from a movement standpoint or have I accounted for that adequately with my tongue and grooves?

  10. 27 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

    hey Jonathan, i just glued 3/4" thick strips of different widths together in a length that would be long enough for the whole box plus a couple of extra inches then planed that piece down to 1/2" to get the final thickness

    Perfect. Thanks. Reminds me of what I did for cutting boards, just wasn’t sure how you would make a box out of them. Makes more sense to me now.

    • Like 1
  11. Fantastic work Dave. You’ve got me inspired to do some recipe boxes for my wife, mother, and MIL. Also thinking about possibly using a similar design from the watch box for a cuff link box for my dad. 
     

    In your recipe boxes it appears that you have layers of different species. How were you able to stack those up like that?

  12. Might go without saying, but you’ll also want to make sure that there is adequate ventilation around the PC tower. Depending on the performance of his unit, gaming can have a tendency to heat up a system.

  13. 19 minutes ago, curlyoak said:

    If it was a through tenon and the tenon is to be smooth with the surface, then I would want it long. Sander of a variety of types will even it up real quick. You need to explain the joint for a better answer.

    Sorry for not being more clear. What I've been working with is some 3/8" panels that will be fitting into a frame as well as some integral tenons (not through). As I wanted to sneak up on a perfect fit, I left them all just a touch long, but when I got down to fitting them, I was having trouble deciding the best way to do it. My LN rabbeting block plane didn't want to cut the end grain of either the panels or the tenon cheeks very easily (again, might be a sharpening issue), and I thought that my ROS might leave some noticeable valleys in the panels, so didn't want to use that. Still new to a lot of this, so trying to learn the best way to do some of these things without cutting pieces exactly to length as I fear that it will end up too short. Hope that helps.

  14. This might seem like a simple question, but one I've been thinking about as I'm working on getting my barn door put together. When you're trying to sneak up on the fit of a board or need to shorten the length of a tenon, how do you go about making that crosscut? I'm talking about small increments here, like 1/32". I've tried to use my block plane, and maybe it's not sharp enough for the end grain cut, but seems to really struggle with that. So, I've reverted to making very tiny cuts on my table saw or miter saw which works, but most of the time seems like I'm just guessing. I'd ultimately prefer to be a bit more precise if possible, thus the question to you all. How do you go about fine tuning the fit?

  15. 1 hour ago, Woodworking_Hobby said:

    The picture you linked is how I built the bottom for my guild roubo bench I just finished.  I do not remember the exact dimensions but I put a rabbit on the top and bottom of adjoining boards to let them slide back and forth and it seemed to provide enough play. They just sit on a strip that is on the inside of the bottom frame.  

    2969FC4B-6F44-4C44-B5CD-60F44F97457E.jpeg

    Beautiful bench. What species did you use for your accents?

    • Like 1
  16. I would echo these other two and recommend resawing as well. You mention that going to the planer would save time, in my experience, its the other way around. Slimming a board that size down on the planer would take far more time than running it through the bandsaw.

    • Thanks 1