Jonathan McCully

Green has been my favorite color for as long as I can remember. Helps that they make some really great machines too.

Showed up out of the blue today. Never received tracking information on it and had been wondering if it was coming. Bought this primarily because of the ability to pair it with my Festool track to cut rabbits and dados in my workpieces. And because I’ll soon be putting my Bosch into a new router table and will need a new plunge. Excited to start using it

Interesting thoughts guys. I learned to dimension by watching Marc, and thus, I’ve always jointed a face and edge before taking it to the planer. Sounds like most of you do both faces before working on the edges. I like that that gives you a bit more flexibility for which edge to joint, but maybe a bit less efficient working back and forth between machines?

Sounds like most of you are recommending 1/2" blades and the Wood Slicer from Highland as your go-to everyday use blade. Am I understanding this correctly? If I can get away with a $45 blade to do most of my tasks rather than spending $180 on a RSK, I may go that direction. Planning to buy my first BS in the near future and trying to understand what the blades I'd need to purchase would be. Seems like every tool is something new to learn.

Playing a lot of catch-up on this thread. Took my family to the Albuquerque balloon festival in 2018. Was one of the most incredible sights I’d ever seen. So many fun shapes and sizes of different balloons, all in the air at the same time. Got there early to watch them launch and for a bit, it was so dark, that all you could see was the intermittent flames in the sky.

Sitting on a boulder in Joshua Tree NP. First time to this park and what an amazing experience it was. Such incredible rock formations along with the “alien-like” Joshua trees which seem to be something from another planet. Kids had a great time climbing the boulders. Hope to come back for another visit soon.

That’s a great idea. Was just trying to keep all the power tools along the same wall to keep in line with the DC, but definitely makes more sense to have the lumber storage near the door where I’m bringing it in.

Not sure I’m quite settled on anything yet at the moment, other than that I’m building a 30 x 40 shop. For instance, now I’m considering moving the DC room to the opposite end of the back of the shop so that I can have the wall with the windows to give natural light for my assembly and hand tool work rather than the power tools. I’m trying to keep the power tools on a straight run from the DC. When I’ve envisioned running power through the ceiling, I’ve seen outlets on the ceiling with extension cords or reels dropped down to the tools. Looking at your setup, I like that look far better and may definitely consider someone like that.

Great thought, thanks!

Thanks for the thoughts Mark. Hadn’t thought about the floor outlets being on a separate circuit. Not a bad idea and one to explore. Ive thought about a false ceiling too. Not sure what that cost would be but if it’s not too unreasonable, it may be the best way to go, especially as that would allow me to run ducting in the ceiling and be able to change things in the future if desired. Not too worried about cold down here, but want to keep insulated from the outside heat for sure.

So we’re getting a bit closer to the start of this build. To catch you up, I’m building a 1200sq ft, wood framed shop dedicated solely to woodworking. Ceiling height will be 14’ for the possibility of parking RVs or boats in the building should I ever wish to sell the property (much more common toys down here than table saws and jointers). I’m taking @gee-dub’s idea and putting a 3/4 height wall about 8’ from the back wall to allow for a space for finishing. I’ll be running some electrical through the slab to keep from having to hang electrical cords down from 14’, so I’ve been playing with the layout a bit. Obviously things tend to change over time as you work in a shop, but want to at least get to where I have an idea of where outlets should be placed in the floor. Based on some suggestions given in another current thread, here is what I have. Some of the tools are existing, some are purchases as soon as the shop is built, and others are sized for what I hope will be upgrades in the future. As always, I welcome thoughts, suggestions, and critiques.

Thanks for the info on these. Picked up the last two packs of them at my local HD today.

Don't think I've ever noticed the annual Bessey clamp sale at HD. I'll have to keep an eye out for next year.

I'm assuming it has something to do with chopsticks...Seems everyone is getting into those these days? I tend to prefer my fork and knife.

Love the additional detail of the cross grain ends. And thanks for the info regarding creep. I'm one of those who wasn't aware of it, but I tend to just use Titebond 3 for all my work and don't tend to have too many issues yet.

Love this idea. Definitely keeping it for potential use in my new shop.

I can respect that. It’s an absolutely incredible looking chair.

You should definitely charge what your time and talent is worth. No complaints from me.

Just out of curiosity, what do you sell those chairs for?

Absolutely gorgeous chair. I hope that my skills allow me to build something of that quality someday. Seems long a far off dream to me right now.

Since @Chet doesn’t trust me, here’s a picture. I try to refrain from posting pornographic images as much as possible, but sometimes my hands get tied.

Only tool I received this year was a Lie-Nielsen tapered tenon saw. Almost too beautiful to put to use, but alas, those tenons need cut. Was incredibly thankful to have receive it.

I love my EC 150. I think you'll really enjoy it John

Geometry was never my strong suit in school, and perhaps if I’d known then that I would pick up woodworking later in life, I might have paid more attention. As I did not, I’m struggling with determining the round-over of my existing header board. I’m extending the header in order to affix a barn door and would like to match the existing header as much as is possible. I have a 1/4” round over bit that I ran a piece of scrap through, and the existing header definitely has a smaller radius than that, but I’d rather figure it out mathematically rather than buying multiple smaller bits and using trial and error. Anyone have any help for me here?

Can you explain to me why the bottom rail should be wider than the top and why they can’t just be the same width?