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Everything posted by raffie

  1. This. Clive Owen as a driver and some stars in each one (Newman, Madonna, etc.) Most driving was real with just a drop of CGI. And Ronin, Vanishing Point. I also like car scenes in modern Gone in 60 seconds.
  2. I`m currently using reclaimed wood for some projects. A small play area for kids in the garden and some garden builds (so nothing fancy). My timber comes mostly from old pallets with some construction wood mixed in (mostly formwork wood). The impact of these on blades (especially jointer/planer) and amount of work involved (concrete, stones, nails to remove, inspection of every single piece) made me decide, that after I`m through with this batch I will not touch anything like this anymore. IF I get some nice old barn/house wood I might think about it but just for my personal benefit and training. For business - not a chance - time invested in sorting/cleaning this material does not make economical sense for me.
  3. Not for this structure. Simplifying - Anything not over 35 square meters footprint and not higher than 5 meters (roughly 370 sq f, and 16 f high) can be build just by telling the "local gov" that i`m wanting to build this. All I need is a description, plan and elevations (and these don`t have to be certified by Architect/Engineer). If they don`t object within I week I can start building. Anything bigger - I need a permit, signed plans and calculations, acceptance from "local gov" etc. (it`s a very invloved and costly process).
  4. Thank You for this. I take it You are referring to the initial post with beams being doubled 2x8s and sub floor being 2x6s? For a peace of mind I think I will go with at least 2x8 joists, doubled up around the middle of the structure and around the perimeter. Stronger and more space for insulation. Yes, T&G OSB is available around here so will use this.
  5. Matt - yes, the floor will be insulated. We don`t do R-value here but it will be rockwool thing, with anti-critter net and membrane under it. I was thinking about 2x6 for walls, but I have to say that budget is an issue and construction grade lumber is quite expensive here. When I decide the design I will try to get quotes for lumber and see what I can stretch to. This sound interesting, with added benefit of airspace and still using 2x4s. Will think about this, thanks! Ok, thank You. Was this in a stick frame or in pole/post construction. While I can imagine what wtnhighlander said, I can`t picture Your solution (can`t think of a way to sheet the walls if using 2x6s sill and top plate, with 2x4s on the inside). And off-topic a bit - I tried to add rep thingy but when hitting the + it does not do anything. Is there a limit or something? Thanks for the ideas.
  6. Beefier floor it will be than. Doubled up 2x10 beams and 2x10 joists. That is a very good point. After looking at the tape measure it seems I`m not as slim as I thought I will try to see if I can get some data on the bearing capacity. It`s mostly clay, but will get some more figures for this. As to the roof design - I haven`t got that far yet. W don`t get a lot of snow around here (not any more) but wind-load can be quite substantial couple of weeks a year with constant wind speed around 60-80 feet per second and sudden gusts going above 100 fps. Tom - old German buildings are amazing. Both shingle buildings and post construction. Unfortunately, where I live, the turbulent history means that pretty much anything was build within last 60 years or so, with occasional 100 years old house. But not far from me is Krakow, which dates back centuries. Thanks a lot for ideas!!
  7. I`m not "set" on anything. What I presented is just an idea that will be changed as I gather more information. Thanks for this!
  8. Hi everyone. After a year of trying to do my work in a small, cluttered, single garage I finally decided it`s time to build a dedicated shop to enjoy the hobby more. I`m going with a stick frame building, which is VERY unusall in my neck of woods (I live in Europe, in Poland). Becouse of this I have to do stuff based on my gut feeling and the data I can gather from across the pond (this is You guys). After a stint of "paralysis through analysis" I came to some solid-ish conclusions and would really appricate some input from people that live with stick-frame structures everyday. I will try to provide all the numbers in imperial (I`m in metric country). Quite often these will be very close approximations but I think this will be ok. Anyhow, the shop will be close to 16 x 24 (7,25m x 4,8 m). I know it`s small-ish but any bigger and I have to go through long and costly process of getting permmisions, signed off calculations etc. (and for a stick-frame, that could prove extra difficult). The foundations are going to be pier and beam (this way I still get around frost heave issues without spending a lots on huge concrete slab). Piers will go 4 feet into the ground and sit proud of the grade by about 5-8 inches. Below is the layout for piers I did. Please disregard the metric leaders. On the short side pier spacing is 7`3`` OC, on the long side side it`s 5`7`` OC. The beams will be doubled-up 2x8. My question: am I over-engineering this (I tend to do this)? I know I should do proper PSF calculations etc, but it`s hard to get the figures for the timber, soil capacity, etc., that I have available here. The heaviest piece of equipment will be an old 80`s table saw. I estimate that with outfeed and router tables it will weigh close to 800 lb and will occupy the middle of the shop. Next up is the subfloor frame. The joists are 2x6, spaced 16`` OC, with doubled up rim-joists. Sheeting will be 3/4 OSB or plywood. Besides the possible over-engineering bit I can`t see anything wrong with this idea but would appricate any input as i`m going of the "internet knowledge" here without a chance to verify this with anyone but You ;). I have not drawn anything after this but the walls are going to be 2x4 construction, 16`` OC, 1/2 `` OSB sheeting. Roof - I`m still deciding but will probably end up with a normal gable, 10:12 or 12:12 pitch (this is more to tie in with existing buildings and use the space, than for snow) 2x6 rafters, 2x8 ridge board, 1/2 OSB and asphalt shingles. I was considering DIY trusses but not really sure on loosing all this space up there. My dream shop is something alond the lines of Dale Heisinger shop from Wood Magazine but I`m not sure if I could pull off the clerstory roof on my own (and not sure about using the space either). This is going a bit of an experiment for me. Around where I live buidling tend to be all the way brick-and-mortar. There are also some bastardized pole constructions but I`m not sold on these either. I`m going to be working mostly on my own, with some help around to lift walls etc. I`m going to continue this thread with more of design phase drawings and than, hopefully, with the construction phase journal. Hope I didn`t rable too much :). Any input is very welcome. Thanks a lot!
  9. As a former resident of Penrith and Kirkby Stephen this brings some good memories :). Never went to Burns night but attended a few classic cars shows at the Fat Lamb. It used to be a great place to visit and the food was nice. I remember that car-boot in Penrith was good for old books on the subject but not even sure if this is still on. Thanks for this Terry!
  10. That`s funny to hear. I`m coming from car background to woodworking. Cars can be incredibly frustrating. I`m finding woodworking (in beginner stages) a lot more enjoyable and less frustrating. I`m finding that older, well used machines, if bought at the right price, can be a great investment. But prices for custom parts are lot less here than over there I think. If You guys are interested here is the link for my thread on polish forums about restoring a 1980 table saw that was park outside for last 4 years (under a good tarp). It`s in polish but the pictures are externaly hosted so should be visible and tell the whole strory. The process is on hold atm due to weather. http://forum.domidrewno.pl/pily-36/rema-dmma-35-'odswiezenie'-urzadzenia/ (hope this is ok to post)
  11. Wow, this is truly beautiful. Great work! Remember, with substantial completion You are triggering the warranty period ;). But by the looks of the bench I would say final completion is almost there. Keep it going, would love to see more,
  12. raffie

    Hello from Poland

    Thank You for the warm welcome. I will try to share some of my work. I`m doing something interesting right now. It`s a small project for a friend from work. He designed an instrument called "sunspotter" - it`s supposed to be used for sun observation (he is an amateur astronomer). Main body is made of ply, with some alloy parts as bases for mirrors/lenses. When It`s done I will show it as it`s quite an interesting tool. Can`t do journal as I`m rubbish at documenting my work.
  13. Another thubs-up for this. Got it a few years back from Work-Sharp. Did some testing and general conclusion (both mine and some friends who are knife maniacs), was that it`s a great piece of kit if You just want to keep stuff sharp with minimal effort. As to the belts I just buy regular, fabric backed sandpaper, cut and glue into belts. Works a treat.
  14. Hi everyone. My name is Rafal and I`ve been a lurker on here for a while now. Got here through Marc`s YT films and I like what I can see. Hope I will be able to contribute something to the forums but I`m at the beginning of my woodworking journey so will probably do more asking than telling. In the process of setting up shop (going with a frame build - adventure in itself trying to find help with that in my country. Supposedly anything else than brick and mortar will tumble with a first whiff of wind ). Anyway, will start a thread when the build is on (middle of winter here so have to wait until spring), More time for gathering tools. Ahh..And sorry for less than perfect language, will do my best to make my posts understandable. Have a great day! Rafal
  15. Hi namluke. My first post on this forums (been lurking for a while). 735 is not available in Europe. I looked for it (I`m based in Poland) but only option I found was getting one shipped from US (and buy a transformer). Was in the same position as You and nearly decided on on 733 due to many reports of happy users. There is a lot of difference between 733 and 735 - there is even some comparison tests on YT. Ended up with something completely different (bargain) but would think 733 comes out on top. Had a look on Triton as well and could not find any difference between it and other "generic-china" planers. You would have to figure out DC with any of those as I can`t think of any "portable" machine with build-in DC available on European market. Hope this helps.