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About Bombarde16

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1975

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Lutherie...some day

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  1. Never bring a xylophile into a department store. Found this head scratcher of a trivet on the discount rack in Macy's last week in Philly. No, I didn't feel the need to buy it.
  2. Tight deadline. Need quick advise.

    +1 for spray can shellac. Plain old tempera paint brushed into the letters (even washable kids' paints for that matter) is fine once it's under a top coat. Dries plenty fast and you can mix up whatever color makes you happy. So, what's the cheesy phrase going to say?
  3. Minor upgrade

    Not sure if the caption should read, "I'm drinking milk," or "Luke, I am your father." Either way, my new lathe arrived yesterday. Got it downstairs and roughly assembled. It (along with the rest of the new additions) awaits the arrival of a new electrical panel. As it turns out, I'm neck deep in a bathroom remodel at the moment, so I don't have time to play with the new toys just yet anyway. For the time being, it's just a cool and slightly surreal sight to see the two lathes side by side.
  4. Staining after BLO

    (To my eye, the two photos both look like "after" shots, the first with an on-camera flash and the second without.) I concur, though. This is hardly the banana colored board I was expecting. This is going to be a small table top? What does the rest of the furniture look like and can you articulate what you want this board to do? If this were my board, I'd be looking at the uneven sheen and absorption of the first coat, then thinking to myself, "OK, still a bit more work to do." Let it cure for a few days so I'm not gumming up my sandpaper too badly, sand (or scrape) it back, and then start in on my top coat of choice. While I'm waiting, I'd subject a few test boards to the same abuse and then practice on them once they all get to the same point. Moreover, while I'm waiting and since I'm going to be working the surface some more, I'd fill that bark inclusion with some epoxy.
  5. Staining after BLO

    Pictures? I've only worked with locust once but recall it was already plenty yellow to begin with. Linseed oil would certainly take you well into banana territory. How big is the slab? I'd pass over the card scraper and go for coarse grit in an orbital sander. What sort of grain is it? Best case scenario, the grain is all wobbly in a pleasing fashion. We call this curl and you have essentially "popped" the grain. (Yay) Worst case scenario: the grain is all wobbly in an unpleasing fashion. Your board has now blotched and it's probably not coming back. (Boo) The more important/irreplaceable/expensive the board, the more you can justify burning test boards to see what the finish will do.
  6. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    Ha! Ask me about the chest of drawers I started in 2016.
  7. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    While you all were indulging your inner pyrophilia, a buddy and I got four coats on the show faces. I'm out of town for next week, so these will have a few days respite and, one hopes, be ready for sanding and the next round when I get back. FWIW, this was the maiden voyage of a Husky HVLP gun from Home Depot. I'm a total noob at spraying finishes and this worked a treat right out of the box. Sure is going to look pretty...and I'm thrilled that I won't have to tape any drywall on the ceiling.
  8. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    Just checked the lot numbers. These cans were mixed in 2017. FWIW, here's an article about how to decipher Zinsser's lot numbers.
  9. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    Learned the same thing by leaving a pad of steel wool near the bench grinder.
  10. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    Fair enough. The previous project was a bank of drawers inside a closet. This is two coats of amber straight from the can onto construction lumber drawer fronts. Part of it's the blazing white, daylight balanced LED lighting. Were this lit by old-fashioned incandescents, the warm "pumpkin pine" would probably fit right in. In this case, it was just too orange for where I wanted to go. The other part is the thickness. I'm guessing Zinsser's clear is sold primarily as a blotch control "prefinish" whereas they really wanted the amber to be a standalone "finish finish". (Am I right in recalling that one is dewaxed and one isn't? Is one a heavier cut than the other?) Anyway, brushing on the clear is idiot proof, whereas the amber really wants to leave tracks and uneven blotches if you're not careful. I'll be doing this ceiling and the doors with a gun, but all the same I wanted to see if there was some happy balance between the two.
  11. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    The shine doesn't bother me as much as the tendency towards an uneven shine. Straight off the brush, the denser parts of the grain will start to build a glossy film while the soft, earlywood is still slurping finish in. When light hits the surface, the latewood (which should be dark) turns to a specular highlight while the earlywood (which should be lighter) looks dark by comparison. Usual solution I've found has been to build another coat or three (until the earlywood is good and done) and then knock the surface down with a light abrasive, either sandpaper or steel wool and wax.
  12. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    (Sorry. Hit "post" early. Full post with pix up now.)
  13. Shellac on a pine ceiling

    Putting a tongue & groove ceiling in a bathroom. Picked through the bunk of 1x6 "pattern boards" at Lowes and came up with just enough decent boards to do the job. Some needed a little help with epoxy to fill in some shattered knots. While those are curing, I wanted to experiment with Zinsser's off-the-shelf shellac. I've used the "clear" shellac for years and know it to be watery and crystal clear. I made a first try with the "amber" shellac on a previous project and found it to be a gooey, grabby, waxy, orange sludge. Here's hoping the Aristotelian happy point is some mixture of the two. Sure enough, somewhere between 2:1 and 3:1 clear to amber was what I wanted. Gives a hint of warmth to the bare pine but still goes on easy. Yes, by now I'm far enough down the rabbit hole that I should be buying flakes and mixing my own like a true shellac snob. In this case, though, I've got ceilings and a dozen doors to do; so being able to grab big quantities off the shelf is helpful.
  14. IKEA Shame

    I wouldn't call it a total loss but I'd be a bit more radical than the folks on Pinterest. I'd salvage the sides: They're "prefinished" and already drilled for shelf pins. It's not high quality particle board but it's adequate and it could save some time. Rip rabbets in the back edge and glue in a 1/4" plywood back. If you can get a final commitment to shelf location, glue and perhaps nail the shelves to the back. The center shelves in these units are sometimes fixed. I'd ditch the knockdown hardware and replace it with a glued dado joint. Lastly, since we're taking the whole thing for salvage, I'd chop the shelves shorter. Helps fight the sag and (IMO) improves the proportions by narrowing the silhouette. All that done, now I have a vastly more solid carcase upon which I'd be comfortable spending the time needed to make the fancy plinth and cornice box that the missus wants.
  15. Christmas trees for practice blanks?

    Pros The wood is still green (and has been sitting in a dish of water) so it's soft...for now. For one week of the year, discarded Christmas trees are everywhere and everyone is happy if you'll take them away. (Side story: Visited Lion Country Safari in Florida over break one year and watched the staff drive into the giraffe pen with a pickup truck full of old Christmas trees. The giraffes made short work of the greens but left the trunks.) Turning an ornament from a chunk of last year's tree to add to next year's tree could be a cute tradition. Cons The trees are typically tiny, generally no more than 4-6 inches at the base. Unless you're going to include the pith (Ugh!) this limits the maximum size of the blank you're going to get. Branches and knots everywhere. Yes, you're turning green, but still, it's a rough ride. It's green, so it's going to move as it dries. Conifers are actually tough to carve/turn. The difference in density between early/late wood is off the chart. The result is that your tools dull fast on the hard parts while the soft parts shred if you look at them crossways. As a practice material for someone learning the craft? Absolutely not. Get a chunk of hardwood (i.e. anything that had leaves, not needles) and turn that. There's plenty of candidates sitting in your firewood stack right now. As a potential tradition that an experienced turner might do to make people say, "Awww, that's so sweet!" when they see it? Perhaps...but only if the frenzy of turning out gifts before Christmas hasn't left said turner craving time away from the lathe.