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Bombarde16 last won the day on June 8 2018

Bombarde16 had the most liked content!

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About Bombarde16

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1975

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    Pennsylvania, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Lutherie...some day

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  1. Iffy? Yes. Go for it? Sure! How good of a face mask do you have? How thin does this need to get? You can certainly turn this between centers. But the slightest vibration, catch, or wobble and it'll shatter. I presume you're turning this as a stick because you want the plugs to be a consistent size, right? If it were me, I would cut it in half and work on each half separately, checking my work often to ensure consistency.
  2. I have no idea where the other half landed. Clearly, I need thicker ears to hold my glasses in place.
  3. My basement came with a quartet of 2-tube fluorescent fixtures. The cheapest kind the previous owners could get. I kept the fixtures, tossed the ballasts and rewired them to take these LED tubes. They're on Amazon under the name Hyperikon and go for around $10-12 a tube depending on how many you buy. A buddy and I had just installed about 150 of these at work and we were very pleased with them. Eight of these tubes did fine for general lighting in the basement. Now I'm at the point of wanting task lights over specific tools. My table saw, for example, has an inexpensive 24" LED fixture (designed for bedroom closets, I think) directly overhead.
  4. And it's in. The saw is cantilevered out such that the plane of the saw's fence is 2" forward of the wall. And the back side. The various protuberances are to accommodate the handle and the back end of the saw as it swings to 45 degrees. Yes, it's a monster of a saw. The width of the box is limited by the spacing of the wall studs. No, it's not a load bearing wall. Yes, I could have taken out another stud and made enough room to build a box wide enough for the saw's full range of motion. Yes, I did feel dumb when I put the saw in the box and realized it needed more room to swing. No, I wasn't going to remake the box at that point. Lessons learned: A 12" sliding compound miter saw is insanely heavy and unwieldy machine. This replaced a 10" non-sliding saw that I lost in the move back in 2014. With the clarity of hindsight, I probably should have stayed with a 10" saw and I'd probably still be perfectly happy. I'm glad to have this thing fixed in place as a stationary tool and have already concluded that I should acquire a second chop saw--a much lighter and less expensive 10" or perhaps even one of the 7.25" jobbers--to drag around the house whenever I need to install molding. Now that the box is hooked up to DC, does it do its job? I buzzed some scraps down to fireplace size just to test and the initial signs are very promising. I still need to come up with some adjustable panels for the front that will focus the air flowing around the blade. But, even with the front of the box wide open like this, no debris is escaping forward. I anticipate needing to vacuum out heavy chips that fall inside the box and that's OK. The whole point of the exercise is to surround the saw with a flow of air that will coax the nasty little fines into the cyclone. With that, I need to start excavating the wreckage of my shop and putting stuff back in order. Enough making things worse. Time to start making them better.
  5. I tore my shop apart today. The little window circled in red is a cubby hole for my miter saw. Essentially, I'm making a station for my 12" SCMS but I don't want to give up the 24" (or more) of depth that such an installation typically consumes. Since the other side of this wall is merely the back corner of the furnace room, I decided to sink the saw halfway into the wall. Build a large plywood box with a hole for dust collection, frame it into the studs as a pass-through, then cut out the 1/8" panelling with a laminate trimmer. Still needs a back and an electrical box, plus some tables on either side. But the initial results look like a major improvement: Between demolishing the old cabs that were here and not having to have my miter saw stand out on the floor, I'm trading a little bit of wasted space in the utility room to liberate about 30 square feet of shop space. Of course, this all meant taking half the shop and piling it on top of the other half just to get access. Things always seem to get worse before they get better.
  6. OK, the first aid kit got used first by... (wait for it) girlfriend, who took it upstairs after cutting herself while shaving.
  7. +1 From whence cometh the drool-inducing veneer and how did you get it onto the painstakingly shaped doors?
  8. Both near the stairs. Both bright and visible right as one enters the shop. The fire extinguisher came with a simple mounting bracket. The first aid kit needed a simple plywood box to hang on the french cleats. Butt joints, glue, and a cool paint job. Now I feel like such a grownup!
  9. I got all twelve trays done and await a clear, warm day to spray a quick coat of shop paint. Nine are out in the backyard storage shed. Three are in the shop in active use already. This is the beginning of a round of picture frames. Two massive sticks of wonky sycamore broken down, sorted, and ready for milling. Can't expect that these trays are going to last forever. But until they wear out, this is quite promising.
  10. Thanks for all the replies. To wrap things up nice and tidy: I sent an email to this company via their website, Groff & Groff Lumber in Quarryville, describing the situation. After hitting send, I started typing the first post in this thread. Literally five minutes later, I received a reply from the company, apologizing that the board was unusable and that I should bring it back. I stopped there later that afternoon. Two guys in the yard took a break from running a monster slab through a thicknesser (i.e. stuff that actually makes them money) to help me pick out another board. One stressed how surprised he was that I found one that was honeycombed and, after we picked a board that looked promising, offered to make an initial crosscut to be sure. It came out fine and I was on my way with even more board footage than I had initially purchased. Needless to say, this far exceeded my expectations. I know I have at least one project in the works for 2019 for which the shopping list will run well over 200bf of hardwood with perhaps a few exotics thrown in. Rest assured that I'll honor these folks with my patronage again. Now to get back to that balustrade.
  11. No, not the golden delicious breakfast cereal we all loved as children. This is the wreckage of a large (7" wide, 120" long) stick of flat sawn red oak. It looked perfect on the outside and I needed it to finish out as 1.5" x 1.5" spindles for a balustrade. I waaay overestimated and came home with what should have been more than enough for the job, figuring that any leftover certainly wouldn't go to waste. And then it passes through the band saw with long stretches where it feels like the saw is cutting very easily...far easier than it should. What gives? Sure enough, the entire interior of the board was a honeycombed wasteland of vast, gaping splits, some with over a 1/4" of separation inside. I thought I was going to get this balustrade done next week. Nope. Maybe I'll be able to salvage some smaller bits for another project. But whoever cooked this board made a mess of it. Thus far, I haven't named the lumberyard in question. (Southern Pennsylvania locals, PM me if you're curious.) I emailed them to ask if there's any chance they'd replace this board. Yes, their return policy clearly states that there are no returns on milled lumber. No, I'm not a big spending customer by any stretch. But I figured I'd give them a chance to go above and beyond the call of duty for a little guy and thereby win a customer for life as well as an enthusiastic review online. If not, I'll take it as a learning experience and shop elsewhere. Posed for the forum's collective wisdom: Am I being too hard on the folks that sold me this board?
  12. If only! Nothing is cheap anymore. The BORG is already up to almost $20 a sheet for this stuff.
  13. Sure. I need some volunteers to help but I hope to get them in next week or so.
  14. Customarily, yes. Most organ pipes are an alloy of tin and lead. (Some lower quality builders will also use zinc; but we don't talk about them...) Metal pipes come off the bench with more potential for brilliance and overtones in the final sound; they take up less space, and they're far faster and cheaper to make. When wood gets used, it's typically for larger pipes that might collapse under their own weight. No sane organ builder would make an octave of small wood pipes like this. I just did it as a personal challenge and skill building opportunity.
  15. One recent project for me was the construction of twelve replacement organ pipes for a local church. A fun job, to be sure, but one that took over my tiny basement shop. Each pipe comprises seven individual parts and there's a bit of math involved that makes most of the parts dimensionally unique. So that's nearly a hundred non-interchangeable pieces of wood kicking around the shop before glue-up...every sodding one of them trying their best to get mislaid and out of sequence. It all turned out fine but I need a better way to keep track of projects with lots of parts. At the same time, the place where I work was getting a new kitchen. The contractors had half a dozen sheets of 5mm underlayment that they used to protect the floors and they were ready to throw it all out at the end of the job. Ever the scavenger, I grabbed them in all their floppy, potato-chippy glory and figured I'd make something out of them. I came up with the idea to make a pile of trays that can stack and be used as sorting cubbies. Each tray is 36" across, 24" deep, and 6" high. This gives six cubbies per tray and I'm making a dozen trays, so I'll be set for sorting for a long time...or at least until these break. Straight? You want things straight? These are essentially open torsion boxes; so they'll straighten themselves in the glue-up. But make no mistake, underlayment is hateful crap to work with. I routed tiny little dadoes in the base panels. This forces the vertical ribs into something resembling straight. Then there's a few strips at the top (sliced off the base after routing) to hold the tops still. I'm hard pressed to imagine using screws or pin nails with this, so it's a slow rhythm of glue, clamps, and weights for the rest of the weekend. One trick for glue up: I ripped a piece of OSB and made a platform the same as the depth of the base. This is elevated off of my bench. There's a metal ruler underneath the base panel, running down the center line. When I clamp the vertical ribs to the OSB table at the edge, this serves as a poor man's bow clamp, giving upward pressure in the middle. I've got a backlog of artwork that needs framing, so I anticipate these will come in very handy for that. Something to keep track of all the pieces a.) that come out of breaking down a large board and b.) as those pieces go through milling and joinery. I could also see these being useful in a big cabinetry project with lots of rails and stiles. And who knows? There may even be another round of organ pipes in my future.