Bombarde16

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Bombarde16 last won the day on June 8

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About Bombarde16

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1975

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    Male
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    Pennsylvania, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Lutherie...some day

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  1. Bombarde16

    Another bench for a customer's Dad.

    I believe these are called "tusked tenons."
  2. Bombarde16

    From firewood to spatula

    While you all have been indulging your inner BDSM fetish, spatula number three clocked in at 50 minutes from firewood to finish. Form is getting better and use of material is getting more efficient.
  3. Bombarde16

    From firewood to spatula

    First from the top or from the bottom?
  4. Bombarde16

    HELP need repair ideas!

    In my defense, the first thing I said was that, "it's toast." I stand by that assessment, now after having done some research into this "Magnolia Market" thing. Looking at the website, it appears that the table in question is their Iron Trestle Dining Table which retails online for $800 or so. Reading the description, here's what concerns me: The "worn & rugged shop floor finish" on a "V-match planked top" sounds like it'll be a bugger to repair. Realistically, yes, you can squirt some adhesive under the planks and clamp them back down. Once that's dry, however, you'll have a trip trying to blend things to match the rest of the table. If my spouse had brought this home and after we had a nice long talk about the meaning of the phrase caveat emptor, I'd be thinking as follows: Short term Break out a tube of Liquid Nails and brute force the slats back down. It'll look awful; but I could live with that because... Long term Salvage the ironwork base and make a new top. It's just a sheet of particle board with some pallet lumber pasted on top. Frankly, you can make a replacement top that's as good as (and likely better than) the original for less aggravation than trying to do a convincing repair on what you have. Sorry again that you got stuck with a lemon. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  5. Bombarde16

    HELP need repair ideas!

    So sorry to see this, but my first reaction is that it's toast. Toast in the sense that a.) the work to repair would exceed the work to build a new top and b.) the repair process will disturb the rustic patina in a way that's hard to blend in. That said, you asked. So let's start with a request for more information. The slats that have lifted off, can they be lifted up higher? High enough to allow you to squeeze glue underneath? What does the underside of the table look like? If you can't squeeze glue in from above, can you drill holes in from below to inject glue? Good luck.
  6. Bombarde16

    From firewood to spatula

    Tim Yoder turned a spatula on his YouTube channel. Seemed like a fun little project and perhaps a good thing to make in bulk for gifts. Cherry firewood. Roughed on the bandsaw, turned, sanded with an oscillating belt sander, finished with mineral oil. The end of the handle (marred by the live center) gets bandsawed off at an angle. Quick, easy, and it gives it a fun look. Last spatula clocked at a little over an hour. Should be able to get through these quicker with practice.
  7. Bombarde16

    Give us this day our daily D'OH!

    Perhaps. But to my eye, it looks like the numbers work out in favor of coming up with a workaround. Option 1: Redo it. I have to repair any damage to the sides (already finish sanded) caused by banging the frame apart. I have to work two pieces of thicker, primary-grade stock. Thickness, resaw, make spacers, glue up to create the slot, curve, pattern rout, sand, etc. And then I have to reassemble the frame. Option 2: Make it load from below. I have to work one thin piece of secondary-grade stock and drill two holes in the back.
  8. This is a set of frames for jigsaw puzzles. The design draws on the popular Arts & Crafts flourish of mimicking a Japanese torii. Gentle curves with a horn-like flair up in the top corners. The gentle curves are all from a single template, namely a 1 1/2" high arc over a length of 36". The little flairs in the corners are traced with a trashcan lid. What I was hoping would be the genius stroke in the design is that the top piece has a slot allowing the assembled puzzle to slide in from above. Lots of puzzles come in standard sizes, so this would give me the option of building up a collection and rotating what puzzle gets displayed. The d'oh moment, of course, is that I traced the little flairs upside down on one frame. Options? Really only two at this point: Bust the frame apart (just pocket screws and a dab of glue) and make a new top and a new bottom. Find a way to make the frame load from below with the slot in the bottom. I'm leaning towards option 2. All it needs is a slip of wood that fits in the slot. Load the puzzle in from below, fill the slot with the slip and then have a pair of set screws in the back to hold the slip in place.
  9. Bombarde16

    Tapered Cove Cut - How-to anyone?

    So, it's not a tapered cove cut so much as a cove that follows an arc? How about a circular saw on a trammel arm? Plenty of sanding and cleanup afterwards, but it'd be dirt cheap to make and perfectly easy to adjust for whatever radius you wish.
  10. Bombarde16

    Yet another kid-in-shop tale

    The base is SYP. The blocks are poplar dowels from the BORG.
  11. 10-year old daughter is in town for the summer and needs non-tablet means of being entertained. My brother and his wife just added a kid, so we need to do something nice for the new baby. You can see where this is going. Inspiration comes from a snapshot of a toy at a friend's house: I think they said they got it at IKEA. The original is beech but mine is southern pine with poplar dowels. Color scheme is entirely the work of the little one. Some reflections for the eternal quest to get kids involved in woodworking: Far and away, her favorite part was feeding the board into the thickness planer. Hamster bedding sprays out the back! What could be more fun? She found the repetitive work of cross-cutting the dowels to be quite boring and I almost lost her to the tablet at this point. She got back into it at the drill press, where she could line up the laser beams with the pencil marks. I handled the sanding, routing, and sprayed the clear coat. Painting project parts is, as always, more fun for kids than for adults...or is it?
  12. Bombarde16

    End grain bowl advice

    By "end grain bowl" do you mean a hollowed spindle turning (i.e. a pencil holder, goblet, or tall vase) or a face plate turning (i.e. a bowl or platter)? Is the end grain facing down the length of the lathe or at 90 degrees to the bed?
  13. Bombarde16

    Beginner - Impulse Buy

    OK, to state the entirely non-obvious, your first project with the new saw should be a stuff to keep you safe and accurate during whatever you decide to build. This is the design I use for push blocks. (Others work quite well also.) Then build a crosscut sled. Then pick a simple project that makes a good gift for people you love and build that.
  14. Bombarde16

    My very own millennial token coffee table

    Judging by the picture, this looks more like a local grain reversal than interlocking grain. Interlocked grain generally applies to an entire board. Regardless, I'd go after this patch with a scraper, probably a big overhand scraper for tearout that deep. This hardly looks like a "token millennial" build. Keep up the good work.
  15. Bombarde16

    Woodgears bed

    As I said, it's overkill. But I wanted to use up some ratty plywood. Best way I know to make plywood sturdy enough to span any sort of distance is to engineer it into a beam of some sort. Plus I've got one friend who's pushing 250 pounds. Painted for the same reason I paint jigs and shop furniture: It makes things easier to spot in an environment where everything is wood colored. A layer of paint also helps to lock down any runaway wood fibers that might be considering a bid for splinterhood. And, most importantly, taking that leftover paint out of play helps ensure that nobody else at work will try to paint a room in Redskins colors.