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Everything posted by Bombarde16

  1. (A zombie topic rises from the grave!) So, seven years later, I'm finally going to give this a shot. This is the wreckage of my girlfriend's 7' concolor fir. (long, grayish needles, smells like citrus) I've also got a 6' fraser fir that will come down later this week for a similar reckoning with the band saw. The goal is to process this into strips which I can then chop up for a segmented turning of some sort. Perhaps a sphere? Stickered and stacked in the basement. Now we wait to see how badly they're going to self-destruct. I'm betting I'll know within a month whether or not
  2. Indeed. I seem to recall that CNC folks often fire plastic fasteners into the spoil board to hold things down, the theory being that the router can run right through with no ill effect. If these were a little smaller, that might also work.
  3. Old thread, but still a good place to snap and share. Some of these are glorious!
  4. I need a set of roller cradles for an upcoming project. Similar to what you see in this picture. I have a quarter sheet of 1/2" MDF that I'm tired of tripping over. And I've never tried Izzy Swan's table saw turning technique. Put all of this together and you have a level 5 shop cleanup in the making. Some people say that MDF stands for "medium density fiberboard". They are incorrect. It stands for "maximum dust flurry". I'm always amazed at how much I despise working with MDF...and my seemingly limitless capacity to forget how much I despise
  5. They totally weren't paying attention when they racked these magazines in the local Lowes...or were they?
  6. People say it on the internet so it must be true, right? The rumor is that softwoods (spruces, pines, firs, etc.) are, once dried, actually more stable than hardwoods. It's counter-intuitive, since most of us encounter softwoods as construction lumber which is carelessly milled and sold sopping wet. But, the rumor goes, if you treat a piece of SPF with the attention and love that woodworking entails (i.e. rip out the pith, stack it, let it dry, mill it square, etc.) it will reward you with greater stability through the seasons than its deciduous brethren. Myth or Truth? My instinct
  7. Realistically? Nah. The nuclear fireball in the sky laughs at your paste wax. Were it otherwise, people could use the stuff to save the color in woods such as padauk or purpleheart. Pictures of the finished cabinet?
  8. I opened the mailbox this morning to find a recall notice from "Chang Type" stating that my little Porter-Cable saw (model PCX362010) has been recalled. Of the hundreds of thousands of units sold in North America, some have had trouble with motors overheating. I purchased mine in 2016 ('15?) as a stopgap while living in temporary quarters. I made thousands of cuts with it and it did everything I asked of it. That last part, I suppose, is key: What did I ask of it? I never asked it to do anything that it couldn't handle...OK, maybe I did push the bounds of sanity once or twice by bev
  9. Correct. Leftover interior house paint from gawdonlyknowswhat. Drying a rough piece in bags can be a tricky endeavor. Plastic bags (obviously) don't allow any moisture to escape. Within a week or two, your blank with be covered in rank, sticky mold and will smell awful. Paper bags do allow moisture to escape, yet somewhat slower than if the blank was just out in the open air. I tried paper bags a few years ago and sometimes it worked...sometimes it didn't. Sometimes even the paper bag held in so much moisture that it started to grow mold itself. In the abstract, painting the surface
  10. Well, that went well. Ah, the carnage. I doubt that even Frank Howarth could salvage this thing.
  11. Jigs, jigs, jigs. Now that I've created a perfectly sealed and airtight box, it's time to cut a bunch of holes in it. This is an adjustable jig for routing the pallet slots in the lower table.
  12. Best intentions and all that. I wanted to get a time lapse of gluing on the top skin but forgot to set the camera rolling. Use your imagination: A generous bead of glue all around the frame of the grid plus on top of every single bar in the grid. Then lay another sheet exactly in place on top without dragging it around. Then pile it with all the remaining fiberboard in the shop to weigh it down flat. The end result looks something like this. From the bottom: One sheet of MDF underneath just as a flat, clean surface. Then the lower table of the chest. Then the sides of the grid. Then
  13. The s'mores pile takes any pieces of solid wood down to 4-6" in length. Everything else goes into cans for the regular trash pickup.
  14. Elegant work. The church is fortunate to have found you.
  15. P.S. The other tool in my shop that finds frequent use in such situations?
  16. Sure, you can go straight to the bandsaw with firewood. If you have a jointer and can create a flat surface beforehand, that's even better. But I've taken plenty of wonky logs to the bandsaw. They wobble and it's kind of scary. Spend some time orienting your first cut so that the downward force of the blade is more or less supported by the table as much as possible. Then, once you've made your first cut, orient that against the table for your second cut. It gets easier as you approach your final shape. To get an initial straight line, I'll often stretch a string down the length of the log and
  17. Sure, there's nothing wrong with tipping the hat to several precedents out there. Specifically: Matthias Wandel documents a very early build. It was fun to see that he reached some of the same conclusions I reached about certain aspects of pipe construction. Matthias also followed this up years later with a repair video for the instrument. Raphi Giangiulio built a significantly more involved instrument with copious documentation and then proceeded to build three more instruments on his own before eventually taking a job with one of the finest organ builders in the western hemispher
  18. The brain of any pipe organ is called the wind chest and that is the next component on the list. This is the beginning of a "slider chest". Yes, I'm using MDF and masonite. Some of the worst organ builders in the trade make their chests out of such stuff. (Some of the greats use it, too.) As I said above, this is a homely first step to get some techniques down before I make my next instruments with the good quality Baltic Birch. For all that, though, it's stable, smooth, dead flat, readily available, and it takes glue beautifully. And now I remember why I can't stand having MDF
  19. The church parish house recently went through a massive HVAC renovation. Demo for that job involved tearing through a large pile of built in cabinetry and thereby liberated a massive pile of utility grade pine. Several layers of paint covered over a homely collection of knots, nails, and corrugated metal bridging doohickeys. I couldn't bring myself to see it condemned to the landfill, so here we are turning it into the frame of this instrument. As sketched, the instrument has four vertical posts, seven long transverse beams, and six short bits to connect the posts. I've glued these
  20. Sometimes, the best way to make a dream happen is to make it happen. In my day job, I play the pipe organ. Building an actual pipe organ is a recurring fantasy for many organists and I'm no exception. For most, it never goes beyond self-indulgent and frequently silly little thought experiments. In my case, I've been dipping my feet in the pool here and there, volunteering for every organ builder who'll tolerate me in the shop or on a jobsite. I've been Sketchupping things for years and figure it's time to start making sawdust. Most recently, I did this. This thread will documen
  21. I stacked the deck in my favor by ripping a small kerf down to the middle of the pith. It's a modified version of a Japanese technique called sewari, literally, the "dividing of the spine". The wood cracks because the rings want to contract into a PacMan shape, so let's give them one big "starter" crack in an area which will eventually be turned away. That's the theory, at least. Worst case scenario, we have a piece of artisanal firewood for next year.
  22. (Documented here if only to create a thread that will be resurrected once this is dry.) A friend lost a redbud tree in his backyard. I had a clear morning so I gave him a hand chopping it to bits and feeding it into the chipper. Like most ornamentals, the trunk was a gnarled, twisted mess and useless for flat stock. So, I indulged myself with shorter lengths for bowl blanks. Got them home, gave them a hard look, and figured that only one was even worth getting up onto the lathe for a rough turning. The others had bark inclusions that looked likely to blow apart at speed.
  23. The blame lies in decades of prejudice that "finishing" wood involves adding a pigmented stain. Your contractor didn't know any better because he'd never had reason to give it any more thought than this. (Perhaps he will on future jobs? Perhaps he'll take his payment and be happy to see this job in the rearview mirror? We wish him well in the wars to come...) You certainly didn't know any better, either, but now you do. The lesson for the future is simple: MAKE SAMPLES! On a large job such as this, I would even start finishing samples while laying the floor. It builds natural breaks into
  24. Two chunks of trunk yielded four halves. Turned two into bowl blanks but looked at the remaining two and a.) didn't like the shape and b.) realized that I have more important work elsewhere. So I punted by slicing the remaining two halves into flat stock. Assuming I don't misplace these in the shorts pile, I can make segmented rims for these bowls using wood from the same tree. Potential works of grace and beauty? Artisanal firewood? Check back in 2020 for the exciting conclusion.