Bombarde16

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Everything posted by Bombarde16

  1. So. Much. Red. Some of the shavings coming off this wood looked like bacon.
  2. You know that feeling: Driving along and you spot some discarded logs on the side of the road and then your friends roll their eyes as you pull over to look through the pile and then they pretend not to know you as you open the hatchback? Yup, in this case, I found what I'm guessing is box elder. In fairness, I've pulled some dried blanks from the pile and pushed them across the finish line as gifts over the past several months. That said, I have neither the space nor the time in the shop for a round of rough bowl blanking. That said, I couldn't just leave them there and it's going
  3. I'd question even how much of a recovery staining will bring at this point. Blotchiness, we will recall, is the same thing as figure, just in an unattractive pattern. Sanding at this point would only enhance the fact that parts of the wood have slurped up a triple helping of pigment whereas other parts have taken very little. You'd have to sand quite deeply to get past the blotches at this point. In essence, you've taken the first step toward popping the grain. I'd call it a lesson learned and go to top coat. Once the floor reflects light evenly, it'll be less of an issue. Meanwhile,
  4. Browsing images for ideas on coffee tables, I came across this "Antique Guatemalan Wooden Coffee Table with Turned Legs" on a site called 1stdibs. I'm still in shock. Yes, it's listing for $2,730 plus $465 for "white glove" shipping to the ConUS. OK, it's a nice coffee table. But three thousand dollars? Scrolling down, the importer/seller trying to work this sale has been doing this for years, so clearly people are buying it. All I want to know is, can we do a better job of pairing ConUS people willing to plunk down four figures for a coffee table with craftsman who could make
  5. As RichardA pointed out, you're pulling conditioned air from inside the house and blasting it out into mother nature. I don't run the DC 8 hours a day, so it hasn't been an issue for me. Reviewing my heating and cooling bills for the past year, I couldn't tell any difference from the year prior when I was working in the garage. Your mileage may vary, but it was the right call for me: Venting outside has the advantage of putting less resistance on the system. i.e. My smaller, cheaper Harbor Freight impeller is punching above its weight since it doesn't have to push air through a small filter on
  6. I'm not in the boonies and I also exhaust my basement shop outdoors. I cobbled together a stack with a Harbor Freight 2HP plus an Oneida cyclone body, everything else came from the scrap pile. The ceiling height is a mere 7' 6". The exhaust goes out through a window well. After a year and a half of hobbyist use, there's a noticeable layer of fine dust on the side of the house nearest the exhaust and this yields to a quick swish with the garden hose. Everything else gets shoveled out of the square bin below. I was out the door for 600-700 USD and a few afternoons of fabrication.
  7. It's hard, but it certainly cuts well enough when wet. My error was thinking that I could save some wear on the saw by splitting it. Epic fail.
  8. Working through some dried blanks. This bowl is 10 5/8" diameter, 5 1/2" height and will be gifted to a birthday girl next month. Basic, twelve-segment rim of cherry upon a body of honey locust. This is all I was able to salvage from a tree taken down in the church's memorial garden back in 2017. I blocked off a whole afternoon with a pile of downed logs, thinking that I'd score some bowl blanks and maybe even a few long cuttings for lumber. Silly me. Honey locust is a bit off the beaten path as lumber goes and it's a trick to work. Apart from the blazing yellow color in the sa
  9. Iffy? Yes. Go for it? Sure! How good of a face mask do you have? How thin does this need to get? You can certainly turn this between centers. But the slightest vibration, catch, or wobble and it'll shatter. I presume you're turning this as a stick because you want the plugs to be a consistent size, right? If it were me, I would cut it in half and work on each half separately, checking my work often to ensure consistency.
  10. I have no idea where the other half landed. Clearly, I need thicker ears to hold my glasses in place.
  11. My basement came with a quartet of 2-tube fluorescent fixtures. The cheapest kind the previous owners could get. I kept the fixtures, tossed the ballasts and rewired them to take these LED tubes. They're on Amazon under the name Hyperikon and go for around $10-12 a tube depending on how many you buy. A buddy and I had just installed about 150 of these at work and we were very pleased with them. Eight of these tubes did fine for general lighting in the basement. Now I'm at the point of wanting task lights over specific tools. My table saw, for example, has an inexpensive 24" LED
  12. And it's in. The saw is cantilevered out such that the plane of the saw's fence is 2" forward of the wall. And the back side. The various protuberances are to accommodate the handle and the back end of the saw as it swings to 45 degrees. Yes, it's a monster of a saw. The width of the box is limited by the spacing of the wall studs. No, it's not a load bearing wall. Yes, I could have taken out another stud and made enough room to build a box wide enough for the saw's full range of motion. Yes, I did feel dumb when I put the saw in the box and realized it needed more room t
  13. I tore my shop apart today. The little window circled in red is a cubby hole for my miter saw. Essentially, I'm making a station for my 12" SCMS but I don't want to give up the 24" (or more) of depth that such an installation typically consumes. Since the other side of this wall is merely the back corner of the furnace room, I decided to sink the saw halfway into the wall. Build a large plywood box with a hole for dust collection, frame it into the studs as a pass-through, then cut out the 1/8" panelling with a laminate trimmer. Still needs a back and an electrical box, plus some ta
  14. OK, the first aid kit got used first by... (wait for it) ...my girlfriend, who took it upstairs after cutting herself while shaving.
  15. Sanded, sanded, and sanded some more for a set of staves to be added to a balustrade. Red oak (1980's trim...need I say more?) with a clear finish.
  16. +1 From whence cometh the drool-inducing veneer and how did you get it onto the painstakingly shaped doors?
  17. Both near the stairs. Both bright and visible right as one enters the shop. The fire extinguisher came with a simple mounting bracket. The first aid kit needed a simple plywood box to hang on the french cleats. Butt joints, glue, and a cool paint job. Now I feel like such a grownup!
  18. I got all twelve trays done and await a clear, warm day to spray a quick coat of shop paint. Nine are out in the backyard storage shed. Three are in the shop in active use already. This is the beginning of a round of picture frames. Two massive sticks of wonky sycamore broken down, sorted, and ready for milling. Can't expect that these trays are going to last forever. But until they wear out, this is quite promising.
  19. Thanks for all the replies. To wrap things up nice and tidy: I sent an email to this company via their website, Groff & Groff Lumber in Quarryville, describing the situation. After hitting send, I started typing the first post in this thread. Literally five minutes later, I received a reply from the company, apologizing that the board was unusable and that I should bring it back. I stopped there later that afternoon. Two guys in the yard took a break from running a monster slab through a thicknesser (i.e. stuff that actually makes them money) to help me pick out another board. One stressed
  20. No, not the golden delicious breakfast cereal we all loved as children. This is the wreckage of a large (7" wide, 120" long) stick of flat sawn red oak. It looked perfect on the outside and I needed it to finish out as 1.5" x 1.5" spindles for a balustrade. I waaay overestimated and came home with what should have been more than enough for the job, figuring that any leftover certainly wouldn't go to waste. And then it passes through the band saw with long stretches where it feels like the saw is cutting very easily...far easier than it should. What gives? Sure enough, the enti
  21. If only! Nothing is cheap anymore. The BORG is already up to almost $20 a sheet for this stuff.
  22. Sure. I need some volunteers to help but I hope to get them in next week or so.
  23. Customarily, yes. Most organ pipes are an alloy of tin and lead. (Some lower quality builders will also use zinc; but we don't talk about them...) Metal pipes come off the bench with more potential for brilliance and overtones in the final sound; they take up less space, and they're far faster and cheaper to make. When wood gets used, it's typically for larger pipes that might collapse under their own weight. No sane organ builder would make an octave of small wood pipes like this. I just did it as a personal challenge and skill building opportunity.
  24. One recent project for me was the construction of twelve replacement organ pipes for a local church. A fun job, to be sure, but one that took over my tiny basement shop. Each pipe comprises seven individual parts and there's a bit of math involved that makes most of the parts dimensionally unique. So that's nearly a hundred non-interchangeable pieces of wood kicking around the shop before glue-up...every sodding one of them trying their best to get mislaid and out of sequence. It all turned out fine but I need a better way to keep track of projects with lots of parts. At the same ti
  25. In an ideal world, yes. I just ran out of time and decided to go with it as is. They can always become shorter in the future.