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Everything posted by Bombarde16

  1. Gifting it to a friend today but I got a quick snapshot outside while things are offgassing. This is from Anne of all Trades's site and I even had some dark green paint for the sides. Mostly pine but the bottom shelf is poplar. Oh well. My boards were bowed, so I added tusks for the central shelf to keep things straight. Tusks are a little long, might come back later to cut them down or do something pretty with them. Right now, I just needed to get it done and on its way.
  2. Aha. Can you provide a picture of what the client has in their mind's eye? I was hard pressed to justify building this piece in solid timber already. Now I'm leaning even more towards plywood. Never mind trying to find Wenge plywood. Go with a red oak ply (open pores just like Wenge) and then ebonize it. Pocket the difference in cost and treat your wife to a nice weekend getaway.
  3. (And for those inquiring minds who want to know about the recipient, she was very impressed. )
  4. Alas, only further questions for now. You mention a secondary wood but I don't see in your concept sketch any indication where that would be. Your sketch appears to have a face frame. Why? Are the doors flush slabs? Looking at your sketch, I'm questioning your choice of material. If you're set on Wenge, I'd be curious if there's any way to find a sheet good veneered in Wenge on one face. Paste two sheets of 3/4" back to back and edge band it. All you'd need to do then is four feet in solid wood. Your doors can be flush slabs, and you wouldn't have to put a face frame on i
  5. And it occurred to me that this isn't really even that log's full potential. When I got it wet from my friend's backyard, I was still on my little Harbor Freight mini lathe so I had to rough it down under 10". Wish I had bought my full size lathe sooner. So many trees, so little time.
  6. Thanks! It came from a log about 20" across, so it was indeed a monster holly. That would also work. But this lets me use up some narrow stock. And the look of face grain all the way around has grown on me, more so than a rim which is half end grain, half face grain. I've never experienced this. Any pictures or anecdotes? This blank and its sibling have been dead on equilibrium for over a year, so I wasn't particularly worried about it trying to change shape on me or anything.
  7. Yes. It scoops in about 1/2" underneath.
  8. Spalted holly with a rim of walnut and cherry. 10 1/2" diameter, 5" high. This one fought me. The holly came from a friend's firewood pile and was fairly well rotten when I got it back in 2016. Roughed, dried for two years, and now it's time to make something of it. The soft, spongy fibers tore out all over the place. I got it close to its final shape and then slathered it in clear shellac. Once that dried, a final pass with a scraper got things clean enough that I could start sanding. I've got a larger blank from this same log still, so now I know what to expect. The rim came
  9. Define "mill". What are your tolerances for flatness, squareness, and smoothness? Is this a show piece? Does this need to be jointed and glued up in a panel? Do both faces have to be equally pretty? Do all six sides need to be equally precise? Part of the beauty of using hand planes, according to the Schwarz, is that you shouldn't be taking every single part of a project all the way to the nth degree. So, tell us more about where this board is going and that'll determine your milling schedule.
  10. Hardly seems like shenanigans to me. I've always admired Earl's jig and will probably build one some day...after I finish the dust collection arm, and the wedgie sled, and...and...and... Looks like it's going to be a rather wide bowl/platter. Approximate dimensions and shape you're hoping to achieve?
  11. I visited my folks in Florida over New Year's. The aluminum sliding door in their condo (late 60's vintage, IIRC) was coming apart. One of the stiles (the non-handle side...go figure) was completely loose at the bottom. I needed something to press the stile back onto the glass (GENTLY!) and hold things together so I could drive some screws at the bottom. So I treated myself to a quartet of red sweeties from Bessey: And, wonder of wonders, it worked. The door is holding together (for now?) and I didn't crack a six foot glass panel in the process. Boxing them up for the flight back n
  12. +1 on shellac for the home based finisher. Even for a noob such as myself, working with an inexpensive gravity gun and a small compressor, can get excellent results spraying shellac. It thins easily, it dries rocket fast, it polishes magnificently, and the gun is idiot proof to clean. And shellac is universally useful in the finishing schedule for other finishes as well. I've used the three part recipe described above but have started to develop a sensitivity to linseed oil odors. It's a nice finish, but I'm less willing to put up with the smell.
  13. Revisiting an old topic over the new year. I met up with the extended family in question and found that this toy is still in use...though not by the child we thought we were building for.
  14. This helps quite a bit, thanks. I've got the same struggle with my little Porter Cable, so I'll have to give this a try.
  15. I just added one. Simple plastic thing from WoodCraft. I use it almost everytime I'm in the shop.
  16. I'd go the opposite direction: Leave perhaps an inch of flat around the top but everything else gets coved out on the table saw. Lots of work dragging a slab that size back and forth and even more work to sand out the saw marks... Out just leave them since you're going with a rough look. But curves, curves, curvy goodness for days.
  17. OK, I'm back. The legs and stretchers are made out of the ugliest white fir I have ever seen, so I painted them. The slabs are still big, still heavy, and still in the way no matter where I seem to put them. So let's just build the fool thing and be done with it. Just like Marc did, I made sure that one of the slabs ended up cocked up in the corner by a 1/4". Aaaand, they're flat now. That ratty, spalted red oak turned out to be some of the hardest, densest wood I have ever worked. My router now hates me. And, frankly, after pushing her back and forth for the umpty
  18. Grizzly G0833P
  19. Yup. We're on the same page. The internals of the saw are engineered like a job site saw, so there's a blade shroud and they brought a 3" line out of that. Eventually, the solution will be to let the interior of the saw be a cabinet and pull dust from the entire thing. That'll require me to close off the bottom of the cabinet (totally open) and where the cabinet meets the table (leaks like a sieve). At that point, I'm pulling a full 4" line out of the bottom plus the 2" line above.
  20. Define "somewhat duplicated". Beginner skills can certainly get you a close approximation, but it all depends on how close is close enough. The legs are a reasonable project. Four pieces of something joined to make a rectangle. That can be wood, joined with anything from pocket screws (easy) to splined miters (moderate) to hand cut Japanese dovetails (hard). That could be metal, joined with bolts (easy) to actual welds (hard). That could be plumbing could be could be MDF, etc. And then paint it silver or whatever you like. The top could be harder. If you're
  21. It certainly would. And, come the day that I get a 3D printer, that'll be project #427,584 on my list of things to print. In the meantime, it wasn't too bad to hack out the offending bits. What's more irksome is that it chokes down to 3" inside the saw cabinet. That'll take some more thinking to fix.
  22. OK, admit it: Tool manufacturers don't give a !$#&@ about dust collection, do they? Sometimes it feels like their efforts are purely decorative. This is the 4" port from my new Grizzly table saw. That cool-looking overhead hose that plugs into the blade guard? It's choking off 25% of the airflow from below the blade. Coping saw and a Dremel to the rescue! Since I'm plumbing my own shop, I've run a separate line for the blade guard hose and can give the underside of the table its full 4" port...or, at least it's 4" until it chokes down to 3" inside the saw.
  23. Seriously, I've had this Ryobi plunge router for fourteen years. The set screws that clamp the fence have always been a pain. Tiny Phillips head screws that get lost too easily, and the body of the router gets in the way of getting a screwdriver on them so the driver always cams out when you try to tighten. Enough is enough! While trying to make some headway on my workbench, I'm into the monster mortise phase of the project and need a reliable router fence. For the record, the set screws on this particular router base are M5-.8 threads. No way I was going to get real star knobs in that size
  24. Echoing John Fitz, this looks like planer snipe. My little cheapo does it, too, and I've gotten accustomed to starting with boards that are 6" overlength and then wasting off 3" from each end. If you're already committed to these boards as is (and Christmas is just around the corner, so I'd understand) then I say just glue them up and go for it. There's a vast field of gluing surface elsewhere in the blank, so this is not a safety hazard that will blow apart at speed on the lathe. This being at the end of the board, you're going to turn this section down to a much narrower dia
  25. As if I needed another excuse to get a stand mixer. Good call.