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Everything posted by Bombarde16

  1. Firewood turned into a shameless attempt to curry favor with a prospective lady friend. Still not sure I like the greenish cast of this particular holly tree. Finished with paste wax, now I need ideas on what to put in it.
  2. Finally got the collection box done. Came up a few couplings short and I've got a few mods to make to the table saw's port before making the final connection. That said and for tonight, I can proudly report that it does indeed suck.
  3. Steve is correct that this is a quick job for a bandsaw and an oscillating sander. I'd question the grain orientation of the clamp part. Certainly the ladies aren't cranking down crazy hard on these to hang a quilt. But too much force on that screw would split the curved piece rather easily. Orient the grain properly and you're free to invite Hercules over to crush all the quilts he likes. Lastly, I'd take this as an opportunity to do something nicer that the brass screw handle shown. Perhaps make custom handles in the shape of a heart or a star or something.
  4. I was halfway expecting the first comments out of the gate to run something along the lines of, "Nahhhh, just hang them with some steel straps and be done with it!" It's gratifying to know that I'm not totally crazy, here. The current blend of shop fixture paint is a curious "dusty rose" color born of some leftover cans of yellow and burgundy that sat forgotten for years in a closet at work. Not the ugliest color I've ever seen.
  5. Making a batch of brackets to hold dust collection pipes. Each consists of a mere three pieces of plywood but the various operations needed to get the shape in question do add up. Certainly would've been faster with a robot.
  6. Just because I can. For reference, the actual Google logo used this font "Catull" for several years before switching to a sans serif font not too long ago.
  7. Raises a fair question. Does the system even exist where emptying things out is not a pain?
  8. Quite possibly. And if this ends up being a deal breaker, I'll get a round can and I'm only out the time it took to make a box. But I'm optimistic for two reasons: Frank Howarth's setup is a square box that he shovels out regularly. Monkey see, monkey do. This box will only collect dust that is large enough to fall out in the cyclone. All of the fines get blasted out into the backyard or, if I ever install one, caught in a filter after the impeller. Theoretically, shoveling out what remains won't be an unmanageable exercise sending fresh clouds all over the shop. Time will tell
  9. Certainly a smart option. Lowes currently offers this for $22. I decided instead to make a square collection bin. Currently upside down waiting for the construction adhesive to dry so I can flush the bottom to the sides. It's more time-consuming than buying a metal can and it means that I'll have to shovel the contents into a secondary container instead of taking the entire can outside, but I figure this approach has a few benefits. I can fit it to the low ceiling and get more capacity for the space I have at hand. As K Cooper pointed out, I can cut a window
  10. This is Harbor Freight's 2HP dust collector, stacked on top of a plastic cyclone from Oneida. Wasn't thinking when I picked out a can to use as a collection bin at the bottom. Even with nothing connected, this is what happens. Seemed like a good idea at the time and all that. Apply palm to forehead. Stronger collection bin on the way.
  11. I believe these are called "tusked tenons."
  12. While you all have been indulging your inner BDSM fetish, spatula number three clocked in at 50 minutes from firewood to finish. Form is getting better and use of material is getting more efficient.
  13. First from the top or from the bottom?
  14. In my defense, the first thing I said was that, "it's toast." I stand by that assessment, now after having done some research into this "Magnolia Market" thing. Looking at the website, it appears that the table in question is their Iron Trestle Dining Table which retails online for $800 or so. Reading the description, here's what concerns me: The "worn & rugged shop floor finish" on a "V-match planked top" sounds like it'll be a bugger to repair. Realistically, yes, you can squirt some adhesive under the planks and clamp them back down. Once that's dry, however, you'll hav
  15. So sorry to see this, but my first reaction is that it's toast. Toast in the sense that a.) the work to repair would exceed the work to build a new top and b.) the repair process will disturb the rustic patina in a way that's hard to blend in. That said, you asked. So let's start with a request for more information. The slats that have lifted off, can they be lifted up higher? High enough to allow you to squeeze glue underneath? What does the underside of the table look like? If you can't squeeze glue in from above, can you drill holes in from below to inject glue? Goo
  16. Tim Yoder turned a spatula on his YouTube channel. Seemed like a fun little project and perhaps a good thing to make in bulk for gifts. Cherry firewood. Roughed on the bandsaw, turned, sanded with an oscillating belt sander, finished with mineral oil. The end of the handle (marred by the live center) gets bandsawed off at an angle. Quick, easy, and it gives it a fun look. Last spatula clocked at a little over an hour. Should be able to get through these quicker with practice.
  17. Perhaps. But to my eye, it looks like the numbers work out in favor of coming up with a workaround. Option 1: Redo it. I have to repair any damage to the sides (already finish sanded) caused by banging the frame apart. I have to work two pieces of thicker, primary-grade stock. Thickness, resaw, make spacers, glue up to create the slot, curve, pattern rout, sand, etc. And then I have to reassemble the frame. Option 2: Make it load from below. I have to work one thin piece of secondary-grade stock and drill two holes in the back.
  18. This is a set of frames for jigsaw puzzles. The design draws on the popular Arts & Crafts flourish of mimicking a Japanese torii. Gentle curves with a horn-like flair up in the top corners. The gentle curves are all from a single template, namely a 1 1/2" high arc over a length of 36". The little flairs in the corners are traced with a trashcan lid. What I was hoping would be the genius stroke in the design is that the top piece has a slot allowing the assembled puzzle to slide in from above. Lots of puzzles come in standard sizes, so this would give me the option of building up
  19. So, it's not a tapered cove cut so much as a cove that follows an arc? How about a circular saw on a trammel arm? Plenty of sanding and cleanup afterwards, but it'd be dirt cheap to make and perfectly easy to adjust for whatever radius you wish.
  20. The base is SYP. The blocks are poplar dowels from the BORG.
  21. 10-year old daughter is in town for the summer and needs non-tablet means of being entertained. My brother and his wife just added a kid, so we need to do something nice for the new baby. You can see where this is going. Inspiration comes from a snapshot of a toy at a friend's house: I think they said they got it at IKEA. The original is beech but mine is southern pine with poplar dowels. Color scheme is entirely the work of the little one. Some reflections for the eternal quest to get kids involved in woodworking: Far and away, her favorite part was fe
  22. By "end grain bowl" do you mean a hollowed spindle turning (i.e. a pencil holder, goblet, or tall vase) or a face plate turning (i.e. a bowl or platter)? Is the end grain facing down the length of the lathe or at 90 degrees to the bed?
  23. OK, to state the entirely non-obvious, your first project with the new saw should be a stuff to keep you safe and accurate during whatever you decide to build. This is the design I use for push blocks. (Others work quite well also.) Then build a crosscut sled. Then pick a simple project that makes a good gift for people you love and build that.
  24. Judging by the picture, this looks more like a local grain reversal than interlocking grain. Interlocked grain generally applies to an entire board. Regardless, I'd go after this patch with a scraper, probably a big overhand scraper for tearout that deep. This hardly looks like a "token millennial" build. Keep up the good work.
  25. As I said, it's overkill. But I wanted to use up some ratty plywood. Best way I know to make plywood sturdy enough to span any sort of distance is to engineer it into a beam of some sort. Plus I've got one friend who's pushing 250 pounds. Painted for the same reason I paint jigs and shop furniture: It makes things easier to spot in an environment where everything is wood colored. A layer of paint also helps to lock down any runaway wood fibers that might be considering a bid for splinterhood. And, most importantly, taking that leftover paint out of play helps ensure that nobody el