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Everything posted by Bombarde16

  1. It's tough to advise without a bit more information. But I'd echo the previous poster in giving this over to some other benchtop tool: a miter saw, a grinder, a radial arm, a drill press, whatnot. Is this the table's final resting place? (i.e. against a wall) If so, all the more reason to use it for a chop saw or similar tool. Bench dog holes to my mind seem to imply hand tool work and vastly heavier construction for the base to avoid racking or scooting when planing and sawing.
  2. Couldn't have said it better that this.
  3. Demystification is precisely the point. As you describe, there are sometimes genuine physical explanations for why things work. On the other hand, there's a lot of over-romanticizing and (for folks on this side of the Pacific) familiarity breeding contempt. To wit, just about every garage in North America has a western (push) crosscut saw. They're usually rusted, dull and ineffective tools, barely suitable for building a treehouse. Yet when an American woodworker encounters a Japanese tool, it's usually in the collection of someone who takes tools seriously. Whether that's a John Reed
  4. I was for a while. I majored in Japanese and spent an entire year in Kyoto as an undergraduate. Among other things, I had the fortune to take an architecture course. Part of the class involved hands-on demos with a master carpenter, mostly studying some of the insanely complex joinery they've come up with for timber frame buildings. Certainly a lot to drool over. Since getting into woodworking as a hobby, though, I've come to keep Japanese tools in a bit more perspective. (Maybe it's because I married a Korean...certainly no love lost across Tsushima Strait.) Hand planes are a perfect
  5. Is there any way to sort topics by the number of replies? It'd be nice to find older topics that have slipped through the cracks.
  6. Absolutely. Mine sees more use than all the other jigs I've made combined. Size matters. While Incra produces a gauge that's several steps above anything that comes stock with a saw, you're still supporting the workpiece on a surface measured in inches. A miter sled, riding in two slots instead of one, carries the stock into the blade with a several feet of surface. The back of the sled also acts as a zero clearance kerf, supporting the back of the stock as the blade exits. You can get the same benefit with a gauge by bolting on a sacrificial extension; but then you get into questio
  7. Some years ago, I stumbled across a lovely piece of curly oak in Lowes, of all places. (The miracle of automated sawmills: they have no idea what they're selling and on rare instances a little treasure slips through.) I was building a folding picture screen at the time and this board wasn't enough to cover the whole project. I knew in the abstract that such a board could be sliced up and used as veneer. But I was too scared and inexperienced to try, so I featured the curly pieces as prominently as I could and filled things out with regular oak. The screen turned out fine and stands in o
  8. French polish is nothing more than a set of techniques for applying shellac. It sounds wildly exotic but it's not, nor is it today the only way to get a high gloss finish on a piece of furniture. But, it was the best they had before the advent of lacquers. In a nutshell, you're going to build layer after layer of shellac. Since shellac redissolves in alcohol, the challenge is to lay down each new layer without leaving tracks or smudges in the previous layers. (Right of the bat, this is no longer an issue in an age of power sprayers) To do this, you add a few drops of mineral oil to the
  9. (Seconding everyone else's vote for something stronger.) One other thing that jumps out in this project are the doors. You're certainly not going to use biscuits to do a set of glass panel doors; so you may as well jump into "real" joinery with both feet.
  10. (Seconding everyone else's vote for something stronger.) One other thing that jumps out in this project are the doors. You're certainly not going to use biscuits to do a set of glass panel doors; so you may as well jump into "real" joinery with both feet.
  11. Very promising. The drawer you've designed doesn't bother me; but some other thoughts do jump to this unprofessional mind: - The horizontal members of the lamp section could be stronger. Perhaps go with wider stock and then cut an arc in the lower edge. Perhaps tilt them at an angle, giving rhombuses (rhombii?) instead of squares. - The legs could well continue past the top of the light section. Look at what Marc did with the top of the gadget station legs. - I'd prefer a two-sided taper on the bottom of the legs. - It'll complicate the joinery, but it would be awesome to hide the co
  12. I can sort of visualize what you're doing; but this cries out for SketchUp, or at least a pencil sketch and a scanner. On the face of it, I think you're over-engineering the center section. The mattress doesn't need to sit on a dead-flat assembly table. For a queen, I'd run a center spine down the length of the mattress and then lay slats (1x4's or even just 1/2" poplar) across the width. Try this video and pay attention at around 2 minutes in where he lifts the mattress. They have their slats runnin
  13. I suppose (if one had some irrational phobia against M&T joints or if you're working with some rare stock and don't have the extra length for M&T's) you could do a preliminary glue-up using biscuits and then come back with a drill and peg stock to turn biscuits into through-dowel joints. But on its own, no. All the joints in this project are butt joints (end grain to long grain) which need the shearing and racking strength of solid wood joinery. I'm 160# after a healthy meal and I wouldn't trust this design.
  14. You may be surprised. Raised panel construction isn't nearly as hard as it looks and, once you've gotten it in your bag of tricks, you may well wind up doing more of it. I'm with Bill and this is precisely how I made my first (and second, and third, and...) raised panel door: Cove cuts on the table saw are the way to go. They look beautiful and are very easy to execute. Also a lot safer to control the work laying flat on the table rather than augmenting the fence to bevel things standing straight up. Try T-Chisel's site when he's building the blanket chest. I seem to remember
  15. By "thinner and thinner" when discussing flooring, I hope you're not talking about trying to scribe floor boards up to a wall. This is precisely what this bonehead was doing when his fingers went into the blade. Assuming that this isn't the case, though, I've cut inlays down to 1/8" and thinner on the in-side of the blade. Two big things: - Make a zero clearance insert. Make several and fit one for each blade you use. - Use a sharp (i.e. new) coarse (i.e. fewer teeth) blade. I've had excellent results using a tiny little 7 1/4" framing blade. (Bonus: These also come in ridiculously
  16. Depends on what you want to accomplish: Running the sander with the grain is slower but leaves a cleaner surface. Running the sander across the grain will rip material off rocket fast and leave a gawdawful mess. You can also relate this to the choice of grit: A 40 grit belt is ideal for maximum destruction in the shortest possible time, so it makes sense to work across the grain. But with a finer grit, this would be counterproductive. So your work flow might look something like this: a.) Start with 40 grit running across the grain to get close to what you want. b.) As you get close, st
  17. Something I wish I'd thought of when I did this. When a top gets to be this big and this heavy, it's a lot easier to bring a handheld tool to the work than to horse the work up onto a stationary tool. Oh well, we'll do it that way next time.
  18. Just to be sure, are they cupped or bowed...or both? Cup is across the face whereas bow runs the length of the board. Actually, that's precisely what you'll get. The planer will also take out any cup across the width of the board. The only problem to watch out for is that the feed rollers can squash a cupped board flat as it goes through. The board is artificially flat as it hits the knives, but then the cup springs back as it exits the machine. This phenomenon gets worse as the stock gets thinner. A few transverse passes with a scrub plane will give you a ballpark flat side prep
  19. A workbench top is a tall order for any clamp, save possibly a small army of pipe clamps. The reason you need to go bonkers on the clamps is simple: The two surfaces don't mate perfectly. (OK, duh.) Jointing a table top or door panel made of 4/4 stock is one thing. A 4" thick stack of whitewood is another animal altogether. When I did this, I adapted a trick from Charles Neil and did these joints in two stages. He gives this as a technique for fixing a split board with a band saw, but the principle is the same. a.) Create your subassemblies at whatever width you intend to put thr
  20. You've already answered your own question: A tinted primer works marvels for very deep colors such as this. For the piece in question, it doesn't look like the disaster you described. Set it in an air-conditioned room (or at least a dehumidifier) and forget about it for another week or two. Then evaluate how bothersome those fingerprints actually are. Strong odds they are within tolerances, meaning you can hold off until the little one is in a new room with a different color scheme and then go for the nuclear option of stripping and sanding. If you've got a newborn, you have plenty o