freedhardwoods

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Everything posted by freedhardwoods

  1. Thanks I don't know anything about spraying finish either. That's why I'm asking so many questions.
  2. Thanks for all the info. One more question. What size tip do you use with wb?
  3. I'm not sure what brand he had, but it is from the same commercial finishing company he gets his ob from. It isn't otc product. Judging from your reply on appearance, the sample he showed me wasn't done right. Color wasn't the problem. The ob looked very smooth and the wb didn't look smooth at all. Can you get a smooth look when you spray it?
  4. I like both of those points. I was thinking that if I went the wb direction, I would promote it as a "greener" product than ob. When I said more steps, I was thinking you had to spray on more coats of wb to get the same protection as ob. From your replies, I guess that isn't so. I talked to the guys at the local finishing supply store this morning. They supply dozens of the cabinet shops in the area (there are about 100 shops in a 10 mile radius) and none of them use wb "because it doesn't look as good". He showed me a sample of wb compared to ob and it didn't look very good, but he did say he didn't spend much time on it and may not have had the gun set right. He said he has quart samples and will give me one to see if I can make it look good. What is your opinion about the appearance?
  5. I had just about given up on my wood shop because no matter what I tried, I couldn't get anyone to order anything. That suddenly changed and I now have 4 kitchens to build. I am thinking about using water borne finish, but would like some more info. I read this thread - 2 or 3 times and it does have a lot of info, as well as searching several other places, and I can't find specific answers. I will start with 1 question and probably will have more. As far as time is concerned, several people say wbf is faster, but doesn't it take more steps than oil based? On a big job, drying time between coats isn't usually a factor is it?
  6. Even though I needed a finishing system, I have a hard time spending money if I don't have to, so I took the idea I found and put it together with some things I had on hand, + less than $100 in new parts. I had a Sunex spray gun, a pressure canner, a 200 psi regulator, and some air hose, all from yard & auction sales in past years. I bought a few fittings, a 15 psi fuel pressure gauge, and some tubing and put together my "new" spray system. My ventilation system was made with lumber, a 3/4 hp motor, and a furnace fan, all from past sales. I bought some filter material from a cabinet shop I install with. Right now, my spray area isn't enclosed. I might have to build an enclosed room if I have trouble with dust.
  7. Thanks for the info I found an idea on another forum that someone is using that I'm going to experiment with before I spend any money. I'll take some pics if it works.
  8. I may be able to get a new spray system soon, but my budget will determine what I can get compared to what I want. I hardly know anything about it so I might be mixing apples and oranges in my questions. I like the Mini Mite 4, but I would like to have the spray gun separate from the container with just hoses feeding the gun. Could I get a paint pot and hoses that would work as a good system with the Mini mite? Is there another good brand that would work like I want without adapting? Any info helps. Thanks.
  9. Since I tend to disappear from internet forums for weeks at a time, I just found this thread. I'm very sorry for your loss. The casket looks very nice, and I'm sure was a very difficult project to do. Building the casket and setting the stone yourself is more than almost anyone else would do. I'll be praying for you as you continue your journey in this life.
  10. I went on a short run for a couple hours. When I got back it was planed, cut, and glued up.
  11. I stumbled onto my old Delmhorst R2000 moisture tester that I used 10 years ago while running my lumber kiln. I had put it on a shelf and forgot about it. I tested the 8/4 lumber this am and it is showing 6.5 - 7% on the outside and 10% at the core. I told them I would plane 1/4" off each side and let it sit in the shop a while.
  12. I think letting it letting it sit a few days is the thing to do, but it isn't me doing it. I passed on the info. I'll find out tomorrow what they decided.
  13. Thanks for the quick replies. It is kd, but I am leery of lumber that I didn't dry myself, especially thick lumber. The breadboard end sounds like a good idea.
  14. I am long on book learning and short on experience in some areas of woodworking. A shop that I install for is planning to glue up 8/4 walnut into a 3' wide top, plane it down to 1 1/4" thick, and immediately finish and install it with the end against a granite countertop. Shouldn't it be allowed to acclimate for a couple weeks at 1 3/8" (or more) before taking it on down to final thickness?
  15. My income hasn't been that good the last few months. Trying to get the shop going is on hold. It looks like I might be out of business before I even get started.
  16. Real good videos with good explanations.
  17. A 20' diameter. blade would be over 60' long. That pic doesn't do it justice.
  18. That's why I ordered the 725 feed controller. Infinite speeds up to 46 fpm.
  19. The fences are what made it cut straight. The solid outfeed fence extended through the machine to within a 1/4" of the saw blade. I had 10 blades, but the most I had on the shaft at one time was 8. Three of them were grinding the scrap into sawdust. I've watched other shops making blanks with a regular straight line rip saw. What would take them 3 or 4 passes, I did in 1 pass. The baby feeders were only there to keep the board against the fences. The Woodmaster feeder didn't need any help pulling a board through because I ordered serrated steel feed rollers for absolutely no slip. Set a board on the table, set the fence, start it into the baby feeder, then go for the next board. You were feeding an 8' board about every 8 seconds. You really needed 2 people on the outfeed side. One person couldn't keep that pace very long. Pic 4 and 5 shows the adjustable infeed fence. The left side of the straight walnut board shown in the pics is where the laser line shined down from above. Pic 4 shows the fence opened wide for a really crooked board. Pic 5 shows it closed for a nearly straight board. This machine cut skip planed blanks to feed through a 4 head mouder. I sold random length drawer box material with the bottom grooved and top rounded over to several cabinet shops. I also made some flooring and other things.
  20. I built this for my last woodworking business. It was one of, if not the best machines I've ever used. If I ever needed a steady supply of blanks, I would build it again. I disassembled it when I had to shut down. It was a custom ordered Woodmaster 718 with 10 hp motor and 725 46 fpm feed controller, two 46 fpm mini feeders, shop built adjustable fence infeed table with laser line, and stationary fence outfeed table. The scrap was ground up and removed by the dust cyclone leaving the finished blanks and 1 off fall to be used in glue ups later. It could keep 2 men running to keep up with it.
  21. I wasn't using the shop much for a long time and that's when I tend to let things pile up. Hopefully, when I'm in the shop more, I'll keep things cleaned up as I go. We'll see.
  22. Did some work on the "wood" side of the shop today. Added some short and long board storage under the chop saw. Doubled the sawdust capacity under the cyclone. Dug out my old Craftsman TS and put on a Shop Fox fence I had on a shelf. Had to drill new mounting holes and fix the broken handle to make it usable.
  23. Your "after" shop will be unbelievably nicer to work in than the "before" shop. Looks good!