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Everything posted by freedhardwoods

  1. I have been to dozens of Amish communities around the country These are by far the most liberal. Some use big diesel engines to run rotary air compressors and hydraulic pumps. Others use the diesels to run big generators and their shops are totally electric. It depends who your Bishop is as to what rules you can get away with (breaking). Many have smart phones and laptops. I used to have a lot of respect for these people. After a few incidents involving me over the last couple years, I don't any more.
  2. 3 or 4 posts back, I uploaded pics of their dovetail machine. They say they are tight, but nail them anyway.
  3. The lack of quality in this shops boxing process had a lot to do with construction method I settled on. I used other factors in the equation also. There is some compromising between some factors, but I have a very strong box behind my (cabinets, not my avatar ) pretty faces. This is Amish. Theirs runs on air, not electric.
  4. I'll try to look when I get back. Had a small install in Louisville today. Headed back home soon.
  5. I have installed a few sets of generic box cabinets and helped assemble a few flat pack cabinets. You expect low quality and shortcuts there. Some of the flat pack dovetail joints had 1/16" - 1/8" gaps. Regular glue would be useless there. The shop I help is supposedly a high end custom shop. You would think they would take a little more pride in there work.
  6. Probably. They put some quality into the face of a cabinet, but the parts that can't be seen are thrown together and then plastered with an unbelievable amount of nails and staples.
  7. Has anyone ever done that or heard of it being done? I just discovered the shop I install for has been doing that for years. My first question when I found that was "If your dovetail machine is that sloppy, why don't you get a better one?" They said their machine works fine. They just like to nail them also. If you took their nail and staple guns away, they wouldn't have a clue how to build anything.
  8. Carrying full sheets through a walk door isn't easy, but sometimes I get it a week or two before I'm ready to start cutting it up, so that's my method for now. That looks interesting, but I don't have enough open space to maneuver something like that. I have cabinet jobs now. I just got so deep in debt when money wasn't coming in, I still don't know if we'll make it or not.
  9. Just like on many other projects, I realized a better way after building and using my plywood storage bin. Just wait a few months and I'll probably think of better way. In my original bin (1st two pics), I would bring a sheet in the walk door, stand it up, turn 90* and slide it into the bin. To use a sheet, I had to slide it out, turn 90* and slide it over to line up with the saw blade. The new bin is turned 90* so I don't have to do nearly as much plywood maneuvering. I had to move my wood storage to a spot that isn't quite as convenient, but boards are a lot easier to handle than 3/4" plywood. The "before" bin pics look nice and neat. I forgot to take some before pics on the day I changed the bin. It looked like a tornado went through. I'm a terrible housekeeper. The "after"pics show the plywood and lumber for my next cabinet job.
  10. Thanks I don't know anything about spraying finish either. That's why I'm asking so many questions.
  11. Thanks for all the info. One more question. What size tip do you use with wb?
  12. I'm not sure what brand he had, but it is from the same commercial finishing company he gets his ob from. It isn't otc product. Judging from your reply on appearance, the sample he showed me wasn't done right. Color wasn't the problem. The ob looked very smooth and the wb didn't look smooth at all. Can you get a smooth look when you spray it?
  13. I like both of those points. I was thinking that if I went the wb direction, I would promote it as a "greener" product than ob. When I said more steps, I was thinking you had to spray on more coats of wb to get the same protection as ob. From your replies, I guess that isn't so. I talked to the guys at the local finishing supply store this morning. They supply dozens of the cabinet shops in the area (there are about 100 shops in a 10 mile radius) and none of them use wb "because it doesn't look as good". He showed me a sample of wb compared to ob and it didn't look very good, but he did say he didn't spend much time on it and may not have had the gun set right. He said he has quart samples and will give me one to see if I can make it look good. What is your opinion about the appearance?
  14. I had just about given up on my wood shop because no matter what I tried, I couldn't get anyone to order anything. That suddenly changed and I now have 4 kitchens to build. I am thinking about using water borne finish, but would like some more info. I read this thread - 2 or 3 times and it does have a lot of info, as well as searching several other places, and I can't find specific answers. I will start with 1 question and probably will have more. As far as time is concerned, several people say wbf is faster, but doesn't it take more steps than oil based? On a big job, drying time between coats isn't usually a factor is it?
  15. Even though I needed a finishing system, I have a hard time spending money if I don't have to, so I took the idea I found and put it together with some things I had on hand, + less than $100 in new parts. I had a Sunex spray gun, a pressure canner, a 200 psi regulator, and some air hose, all from yard & auction sales in past years. I bought a few fittings, a 15 psi fuel pressure gauge, and some tubing and put together my "new" spray system. My ventilation system was made with lumber, a 3/4 hp motor, and a furnace fan, all from past sales. I bought some filter material from a cabinet shop I install with. Right now, my spray area isn't enclosed. I might have to build an enclosed room if I have trouble with dust.
  16. Thanks for the info I found an idea on another forum that someone is using that I'm going to experiment with before I spend any money. I'll take some pics if it works.
  17. I may be able to get a new spray system soon, but my budget will determine what I can get compared to what I want. I hardly know anything about it so I might be mixing apples and oranges in my questions. I like the Mini Mite 4, but I would like to have the spray gun separate from the container with just hoses feeding the gun. Could I get a paint pot and hoses that would work as a good system with the Mini mite? Is there another good brand that would work like I want without adapting? Any info helps. Thanks.
  18. Since I tend to disappear from internet forums for weeks at a time, I just found this thread. I'm very sorry for your loss. The casket looks very nice, and I'm sure was a very difficult project to do. Building the casket and setting the stone yourself is more than almost anyone else would do. I'll be praying for you as you continue your journey in this life.
  19. I went on a short run for a couple hours. When I got back it was planed, cut, and glued up.
  20. I stumbled onto my old Delmhorst R2000 moisture tester that I used 10 years ago while running my lumber kiln. I had put it on a shelf and forgot about it. I tested the 8/4 lumber this am and it is showing 6.5 - 7% on the outside and 10% at the core. I told them I would plane 1/4" off each side and let it sit in the shop a while.
  21. I think letting it letting it sit a few days is the thing to do, but it isn't me doing it. I passed on the info. I'll find out tomorrow what they decided.
  22. Thanks for the quick replies. It is kd, but I am leery of lumber that I didn't dry myself, especially thick lumber. The breadboard end sounds like a good idea.