Bob Rozaieski

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About Bob Rozaieski

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/10/1975

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    Independence, VA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Traditional hand tools, period furniture, teaching, podcasting

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  1. Sharpen it and burnish it like a regular card scraper. If it's chattering, it's likely because the blade isn't well supported, not because of how it's sharpened. If it's sharp it will cut. If it's dull it will skate. If it's chattering, the blade is flexing near the cutting edge. Id reflatten the wooden body where it contacts the blade it's probably worn. If that doesn't solve the problem, you may need to lap the contact surface of the shoe. If that still doesn't work, the blade may be too thin for the body.
  2. OK. Let's take this one question at a time. Your current #4 sized plane will work just fine. With a bit of checking. But for such a long board, a jointer will be quite helpful. Something in a #7 or #8 size. For your budget, I'd say look for a used plane from a reputable dealer. There are several in the UK that I've bought from. A quick Google search will turn them up. This depends upon experience. I've done 3' boards in 5 minutes with hand planes. But by hand it takes some dedication and time to learn to do well. If you have little to no experience doing so, it will take you longer.See this video I did in 2010. Yes. The board will be flatter and smoother. If you sharpen well and ease the corners of the iron, the board COULD be finish ready. But again, this depends upon your experience and skill. Again, doing it by hand takes some dedication and time to learn to do well. If you have little to no experience doing so, it will take you longer and you may still need to sand a bit when you are done. But it won't take near as much sanding. The $10 side clamp honing guides work fine. Stones don't have to cost a lot, but can. The newer the technology, the more expensive the stones. The Norton combination stones are a decent bargain and good quality stones. The King stones are also decent and fairly inexpensive. You can get a 1000 grit and 6000 grit King for about $30 US each. Add the honing guide and be in business for about $75. You can flatten the stones with 220 grit sandpaper stuck to just about any flat surface. If you want more modern technology (stones that will cut faster and not wear as quickly, like Sigmas and Shaptons), you will have to spend more money. I personally have Kings and Sigmas. I mostly use the Sigmas now, but the Kings still work just fine. Deneb from LN shows a good method. You don't have a Q#5 :-) See response #1. Look for a used #7 or #8 from a reputable dealer. Sharpen it well (see video above) and you'll be set. Yes it's possible, if you are willing to put in the time and effort to learn the skills to do so. I own no machines for stock prep. I do it all with hand planes. And it doesn't take me forever. But I wasn't born with the skill to do so. It took some practice and it took me longer than the video above when I first started doing it with hand planes instead of machines. But with some practice I learned to do it and now I can do it quickly, and without giving the process much thought. You just have to be willing to put in the time to learn.
  3. I stopped doing them a couple of years ago before we moved South. I'll get back to them at some point. I did just start an audio podcast back up, but time just isn't available for video at this point. We're currently building a new log cabin and between that and my day job I barely have time to sleep.
  4. One long piece if you can. Makes getting good miters at the corners easier. Of course doing so also depends upon how much you need. If it's a big frame, you may need to do two pieces. I would not do four separate pieces. I did a fairly large frame several years ago for my old podcast. I had to do the molding in two pieces because I needed at least ten feet of it. The trick to doing multiple pieces is making a template to check that the profile is consistent between sticks. Here's the video I did from several years ago starting with squared up mahogany stock, sticking the two lengths of molding and mitering the frame.
  5. At one time, Two Cherries chisels were the best western chisels you could get. They've been around way longer than the bench chisels offered by LV, LN and Ashley Iles. I'd definitely consider them a step up from the Narex. Kind of a halfway point between budget chisels and top of the line chisels. Their steel is on par with the Ashley Iles chisels though the TC handles leave a bit to be desired. Regardless, they are definitely a buy once and keep them for life tool. Can't go wrong with TC. The reason your instructor specified un-polished is because the polished version that they offer has slightly rounded corners on the face side from the polishing process. Some users feel that this impedes sharpening because you can't get the corners sharp without lapping away the polished and dubbed corners. If you get the unpolished set, this isn't a problem.
  6. Right. GF "milk paint" is basically flat acrylic paint. Similar to what they sell at the craft store in the tiny little bottles. It's not bad stuff, but it's not traditional milk paint either. To answer your question on real milk paint, it should spray OK if you thin it enough. But it will require quite a few coats if you thin it down that much. Mixed full strength it is kind of thick. Sort of like heavy cream. It is also a bit frothy/foamy when first mixed. Not sure how this would affect the HVLP. The air from the gun might introduce bubbles, but I don't know for sure having never tried it myself. Real milk paint is made with lime, so has a mild caustic effect to it. It's not dangerous at all, it's just not neutral pH. It's slightly alkaline. Not sure how this would impact the internals of the HVLP since I don't own one. Being mixed with nothing more than water, cleanup should be very easy. Just use lots of clean water. So I'd say try it and see how it works for you. I'd try it on scrap first though, just to be safe. Not that it's hard to repair milk paint, just to save some time.
  7. The tenons are mitered inside the intersecting mortises.
  8. Interesting. I might be a bit concerned about the residual water in the oil, but I think in time it would evaporate. Let us know if you try it and how it turns out.
  9. No. Do not oil the inside. First, there's no need to finish both sides of a piece. This ongoing myth has been debunked several times by finishing expert Bob Flexner. It's a completely unnecessary step. However, and more importantly, oil finishes will off gas for some time, sometimes years. When you use an oil finish on the inside of a case or chest, the smell will linger for a very long time. Anything you put in the piece will take on that smell. If you absolutely have to coat the inside of a piece (for example, the inside of a cabinet with a glass door where the inside will be visible in the finished piece), allow the color coat to dry sufficiently (if coloring) then seal with shellac. Once shellac is dry it is odorless, and more importantly, it will prevent odors from underlying finishes from building up inside the piece.
  10. It could be done. Stephen Shepherd's book has a full description of the process. It can be a bit dangerous to do though. That's why most manufacturers today use heavy metal driers instead of actually boiling. Except Tried & True I believe. I think they actually still boil it.
  11. Keep it warm, apply the coats thin. and just wait for it to dry. Raw linseed oil can take several days to dry to the touch. Several week to fully cure. The thinner you can apply if the better. And don't rush to recoat. If you recoat too soon, you'll end up with a sticky, gummy surface. So after applying liberally and allowing the oil to soak in for 15-30 minutes, wipe off the excess continually until the surface stops bleeding oil. You may have to come back three or four times to remove excess oil that continues bleeding out. Once it stops bleeding excess oil, let it sit in a warm place for several days. The longer you can let it go between coats the better. A week between coats isn't too much. Apply successive coats in a similar fashion. I.e. as thin as you can, with a long wait between coats. Without chemical driers or boiling the oil, there's no real good other way to speed up the drying. So just give it the time it needs to dry.
  12. I agree. Poly shades is heavily pigmented. Almost like paint. Dilute heavily because if it's too dark, you're stuck. It's polyurethane, so there's no easy way to get it off once it's on, other than sanding it off.
  13. The problem with the oil based stains is that they are also sealers. Basically varnishes with pigment added. So one they're dry, you won't get the wood to accept any more color because the resins in the Minwax have sealed the wood. In the future, your best bet would be to use a water or alcohol based dye first, in different concentrations/colors for each wood species, to get the colors of the different woods close. Then seal with a wash coat of shellac or really thin varnish. Then use the gel stain as a glaze to make minor color corrections where needed. Finally, topcoat with your clear. Since you've already sealed everything up on this piece, you have two choices. Either sand back to bare wood, or build more color on top by using glazes and toners (tinted varnish or lacquer). Adding color on top will muddy the grain again. Sanding back to bare wood, well, that'll be a heap-o-work, but will allow you to use the process above, starting with the dye. Neither is likely a very appealing solution though