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About treesner

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1989

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    Santa Cruz, CA
  • Woodworking Interests
    sculpture, furniture, chairs, banjos

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  1. And the sheet metal screw goes into the drywall anchor and the machine goes into the hook with the threaded insert?
  2. You guys know where I could get the hardware to do a flush mount towel rack like this? Or another diy solution?
  3. I'd be doing it with baltic birch and it'd need a lot of milling
  4. Yeah I actually found the version you linked to after posting, ordered them tot test but would be ideal to find cheaper (give theres no slop and it does work) I think they will be like 6-10" wide and maybe 12" tall. I'd like it to be strong enough to hold coats/backpacks
  5. Yeah I want it to be fool proof and easy when I sell the pieces. wonder if theres an easy way to make own plugs? or something that covers up the screws and is removable easily
  6. well the problem is that tits really narrow not a normal 3-5 hook coat rack
  7. thats a cool idea I guess there would be a gap on the bottom but maybe not that noticeable
  8. This might be better than the keyholes. I wonder if just one of these (instead of two vertical stacked) would be strong enough and not allow the hung piece to twist (like a single keyhole on a screw would)
  9. Hey guys how would you flatten a table top made of plywood endgrain? Say it wasn’t perfectally glued up. Another thread said running plywood through the planner would dull it quick. My only two thoughts would be router jig like they use for live edge tables (would carbide tip hold up to this?) or one of those 20,000 giant belt sander machines you could run it though? any other ideas?
  10. Trying to figure out how to flush mount a hook piece that’s narrow and only hits one stud. Easy solution is screws through the front but I want it to be clean. I also want to be able to have normal people hang the piece themselves easily. Typically I use French cleats but that only works well with 2 studs. My current solution is to make a board with two screw heads sticking out and have holes to screw that’s to the wall. On the back of the piece there would be a routed out area deep enough for the clear board to fit into it, then into that would be two key holes that would hook into the clear board. Any better solutions for this? Example of key holes but would end up routing an area around it to let the clear board fit into it
  11. Hey guys I have a dewalt planner is it hard on the blades to run Baltic birch through it or things that are glued up?
  12. ah didn't think of that. are the cedar/redwood stuff stained? I did see some pine boards that were obviously heavily stained yeah those cedar or redwood boards. I guess they are a bit thin. was thinking I could laminate them together
  13. Does anyone use fence boards for woodworking/furniture if so for what? Seems like a cheap source of wood just needs to be ran through the planner. However it does seem a bit wet. Side question what are the dangers in glueing semi wet wood together
  14. If you have a shelf mounted on a French cleat you can take one end and lift it up horizontally. this is what's happening when I put weight on the edge of the shelf, it's lifting up the other side. I'm basically trying to lock it so that it can not lift up. perhaps if the shelf was super heavy that would fix it but I don't want to add weight for weights sake especially if I'm shipping. Edit: thinking about it more, the cleat is hidden inside the shelf so its flush and you can't see the cleat on the sides. I make the wall mounting cleat shorter than the shelf mounted cleat so that there is some play moving it side to side if you want to visually adjust the position a little bit. however if I just made the cleat cleats the same exact size so that when you fit it on there was no side to side play I would no longer have the lifting because the edge of the cleat would hit the inside edge of the shelves cleat, acting as a stop. No longer have that left/right adjustment for shelf positioning but that's a fair trade off.