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About CharleyL

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Compound Scroll Saw, Cabinet making, Science Exhibits Design & Construction.
    Yes, I drive a replica "wood burner" train (see avatar), but it's got a forklift 4 cylinder engine in it.

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  1. When I lived in SE NY State I bought all of my hardwoods and exotics from M. L. Condon Lumber in White Plains, NY. I've been gone from NY for 35 years, so I hope they are still there. They had a large warehouse several counties to the North of White Plains and right near where I lived, so I could place a phone order with their White Plains office and they would put it on the next truck headed to their warehouse, for me to pick up the following day or sometimes even later that same day. They didn't do any selling at this warehouse, but getting my small orders delivered there quickly and w
  2. I don't like construction lumber for making furniture either, but if you built it hollow using long 2 X 4's for only the top, front, and back, then short pieces to fill in the ends so the look would be the same, it would be a lot more stable. The suggestion to use 2 X 12s and rip them is a good idea, but discard the piece with the pith and the tight curved grain. Using narrower pieces rotated so that the grain is oriented vertical will improve stability too by simulating "quarter sawn" wood. Do you have an older family run style Lumber Yard in the area? Their construction lumber has likely b
  3. If the table pictured above is what you are planning or you are planning on making something very similar, I would just cut the strips and glue them together to get as flat a surface as possible, and then use a random orbit sander to smooth the surface and level them out as much as possible. A large belt sander might do a better job if you have access to one, but I would avoid trying to use a hand held belt sander. Starting with "Void Free" plywood like Baltic Birch or Marine grade plywood that has no voids in it would produce better results too. The builder of that table did not do this and s
  4. How are you cutting your miter joints? You should be figuring out how to get perfectly fitting joints so you don't have the problem that requires filling the gap.. I use a MiterSet jig to set my saw miter gauge when cutting miters on my table saw. I use drafting triangles to check the accuracy of my chop saw and get it set perfectly, or cut the desired angle on a piece of scrap using my table saw and the MiterSet jig and then use the cut piece to set my chop saw to the angle before making the cuts in my work. MiterSet makes two versions of t
  5. In addition to this general rule of clamp spacing, for panel glue-up, you should be alternating the clamps so that every other clamp is on the opposite side of the panel. Get them all in place and snugged up so they don't fall off while additional clamps are being added on both sides of the panel, and when all are in place then apply the significant clamping pressure by tightening them up, I like to alternate this final tightening sequence to keep the pressure on the panel as even as possible, so I first do the clamps on each end, followed by the middle, then the in between clamps, etc.. With
  6. If you want a harder wood than has already been suggested, white oak is a good choice for outdoor use too. I would go with stainless screws. Since you plan to have a gap between the boards you needn't worry much about shrinkage and expansion. Just attach the legs with screws driven up into the table top from underneath (build the table upside down so it's easier to drive the screws in). Instead of the long stretcher between the legs like in the first photo, I would go wit 45 degree braces under the table as well as under the bench seats like can be seen under the bench in photo 2. Charl
  7. I have a Wixey Digital Read Out on my Delta Unisaw with a Delta Unifence. I can set the fence to a position, make the cut, then move the fence to a second position and make another cut, then move the fence back to the first position and make a second cut at this position, and both the first cutpiece and this second cut piece will be within 0.003" of each other when measured with a digital caliper. Other than having the fence move to position automatically, I can't see where buying one of these would be of any benefit at all. It certainly isn't much effort for me to have to move my Unifence by
  8. If I wanted a hard wood bench this thick I would find a sawyer or saw mill and see what they had available. Some of these guys have kilns and could likely save you a lot of money over buying the same thing from lumber yards. I'm not a neander woodworker, so I never felt that I needed a bench this heavily built. I use power tools for most heavy woodworking, so I have never found the need for such a heavy bench. I have a Leigh FMT Pro for all of my mortise and tenon needs, so no need for heavy pounding and chopping. I have a Leigh D4R for cutting dovetails too. For me, the best work
  9. My comment about the hinge pin size was because I wanted a smaller hinge pin, but if you wanted larger, I suppose that you could do this. Unfortunately, the jig only allows for several different barrel spacings, and not different barrel diameters. The jig is designed to help you drill the hinge pin hole in the center of the hinge barrels only, and not designed to accept different hinge barrel diameters. The 1/8" diameter pin is fine for this barrel diameter, but I found it difficult to find the 1/8" brass rod, although 1/16 and 3/32" seemed to be readily available. I later found the 1/8" at
  10. You will have more problems due to humidity changes if not gluing soon after cutting the joinery. If you wait before gluing you may find that joints need touching up dimension wise when ready to glue them together. You might want to just rough the joinery, leaving the fine tuning for when you are ready to glue. Mortise & tenon joints will likely need the most fine tuning for proper fit. I have a temperature and humidity controlled shop, so I don't worry about this, but in your situation, I would likely do everything except the mortise and tenon work and make myself kind of a kit, to be
  11. That is the worst possible place to store DVDs. The heat will ruin them, and you will be blamed for it, even if you manage to build exactly what they want. Talk them into storing their DVDs somewhere else. Records, CDs, and DVDs are all heat sensitive and it doesn't take much to destroy them. Charley
  12. I make a lot of boxes, and I use Titebond II Extend. most of the time when assembling the box corners. Many of the corner joints that I make are box joints, so I need the extra time for assembly. Most of my "better" boxes are full length mitered spline joints in solid wood with cross grain splines in the mitered corners, and I'm finding that it's much easier to glue these together with the TB II Extend as well. The photos below are of boxes that I made a couple of weeks ago from 1/2" Baltic Birch with 1/4" tops an bottoms. Who said "you can't cut good box joints in plywood". It works OK for me
  13. Get a set of these. They will save you a lot of grief. The company has other pieces for round boxes, etc, should you need them. You can run low voltage cable,TV Coax, Phone Cables, Network cables, etc by
  14. Save it !!. Because as soon as you throw it away, you will discover what it belongs to. DAMHIKT Charley
  15. Do you have a Unisaw with a pop-up splitter? There is a detent ball that holds the splitter in the up or down position that's about that size. If your pop-up splitter doesn't stay up, it is missing the ball and possibly the spring behind the ball. I doubt it will come out on it's own, but if you recently removed or replaced the splitter, it could have lost the ball, and possibly the spring too. Charley