Cheeset202

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Everything posted by Cheeset202

  1. Make a pattern, use a guide bushing in a router and a 1/2” cove bit to create the outer edge of the scooped out area. Sculpt out the rest with a sculpting wheel like the Galahad fine wheel. Refine with a curved card scraper and sanding.
  2. Cheeset202

    Occupation

    I am a Forest Engineer and I worked in the lumber business for a very large lumber company for 30 years, the last 18 years as a plant manager in four different mills in British Columbia, Alberta, Washington (state) and lastly Louisiana before retiring from big corporate at 55. Moved to the Silver Valley in Idaho (Wallace) and now manage a small fiberglass plant making custom fiberglass components that we ship worldwide. There are 3 of us that run the company and it is a blast, a major change from a big company. When I stop having fun at this job I will permanently retire and build furniture full time.
  3. Welcome aboard, any day and type of woodworking is a good day! More great sources for handtool woodworking instruction is Matt Estlea and the Renaissance Woodworker.
  4. Built this while you were camping.....couldn’t resist! Good to see you back on the build
  5. Nut, don’t wait too long, I wish I built this bench years ago. I agree it is a large investment (although so were those beautiful chairs you built) but it will last your lifetime and probably someone else’s so the sooner you build the lower your cost per year!
  6. Chet, you should come try a winter in N. Idaho! A little bit colder and lots of snow compared to San Jose! My shop is usually shut down for the winter, too busy skiing and snowmobiling!
  7. Great job Kev, noticed the pellet stove running in the beginning, must be cool mornings in Montana! On a unrelated note, what casters did you use on your Roubo Bench, just finished mine up and I think I want to be able to move it in the winter so I can get my car in the shop.
  8. No need to apologize Steve, I would have done the same thing if I put a straight edge on my planes and saw a gap! I have been buying Veritas tools from Lee Valley for many years and have never been disappointed with their products or customer service. I also never knew there was a “Rob Lee” of Lee Valley, very impressed with his response to this topic.
  9. Roubo finally done and ready for the next project. I have some shop organization to get done, too much crap on my benches! Next furniture project will be a coffee table with coopered tapered pedestals, curved center beam and a floating top. Design is in my head so I will need to draw up some construction sketches and probably build up a proto type of the pedestals.
  10. Paul looking forward to the build, this project is on my list so I will let you work out all the bugs for me. I was disappointed in your experience with Bell Forest Products given the direction you gave them. They are my primary source of lumber.
  11. Steve check out Christopher Schwarz video on trouble shooting a bench plane. He basically says not to check the sole of the plane with a straight edge looking up at a light, stating you will inherently see light under the straight edge. He places the plane gently upside down in a vice and uses a feeler gauge. He states that 0.003” is plenty flat. I have the same block plane so I will use an engineers square to see what mine is like. I never checked any of my planes this way, just honed up the blade and they cut beautifully. Not sure how much gap you would get using his method but the pic you shows looks greater than 0.003” but Chris states that the gap is magnified by the light reflection on the sole of the plane.
  12. Having just finished my roubo I feel some of your pain and I have an 8” jointer. I quickly discovered that my infeed and outfeed beds were not co-planer and this will really cause frustration on those long pieces, so check to make sure your beds are set properly. Depending on the amount of twist, cup, crook and bow that are in your pieces you may need to focus on taking partial jointing passes on the worst defects. This requires a good understanding of the warpage in the board, cup is the easiest to deal with placing the cupped edges on the jointer bed. Twist, bow and crook may require several partial passes on part of the board. Use a good straight edge to gain a good understanding of the offending material. Another option would be to take a hand plane and flatten the best face and edge by hand or at least get it close so you can take complete passes with the jointer. Several people have also had success with skip planing the pieces with a thickness planer, take very light cuts to both sides of the board until the knives are just making contact across the surface, then take a pass on your jointer. If you have a bit of bow then this can usually be resolved with clamping pressure and dominos or biscuits can help with slight crook. Twist is the nasty one that you need to eliminate it! Winding sticks and hand planing may be your best option here.
  13. We have lots of retiring transplants buying up property in the Silver Valley in Idaho. I talked to a guy from S. Ca and he said he owns his small home but can no longer afford the property tax! I paid cash for an 1800 square foot home with a 1200 square foot shop, no way I could do that in most other Western States! If you like mountains, hot summers, snowy winters, outdoor activities then this place is paradise, if you want shopping, restaurants, high end arts and entertainment then this is not the place for you. The biggest issue here is good jobs are scarce and you pretty much need to drive to Coeur D’ Alene (35miles) for anything above basic health care.
  14. Good repair, only you will know unless you tell people! Structurally it looks like a long grain break so the epoxy should hold up well.
  15. Brendon, that is a tough question. I pretty much followed Marc’s video instruction on the build and just took my time. Unlike you there is no way I could build this bench in 17 days! It is actually a fairly straight forward project, nothing too complex in the build other than dealing with large pieces of wood. It is imperative your jointer and planer are dialed in perfectly to get nice square pieces. I quickly found my jointer beds were not perfectly co-planer and it shows up quickly on long pieces of stock. You make a lot of planer shavings in this project, I think I emptied my 55 gal dust collection bin 4 times during the build. The other thing is to purchase a good 1/2” uncut spiral bit (I have a Whiteside 2” long bit) and a good strong plunge router with a good edge guide. I am fortunate to have a Festool OF2200 so the work went very smoothly. I think the last learning for me was getting the offset drawbore holes perfectly in line with the holes in the legs is critical, if the offset hole is off centerline of the holes in the legs the rail will draw in and slightly up or down if alignment is off, even with tight fitting tenons. As I said in the beginning I wish I built this project years ago when I started using hand tools in my work, it will be the most used tool in my shop!
  16. Well the build is pretty much done, just need to add the crubber to the chop and dogs, some sanding and apply the finish. Benchcrafted hardware works like a dream. I will post some final pics once the finish is on. Supposed to hit 94 degrees here in N Idaho today so the shop is closing up and the house a/c is going on!
  17. Just follow the set-up directions that are in the saw manual, pretty basic stuff, just need a decent square to do an adequate job on the set-up. Freud makes good carbide tooth blades that won’t break the bank. Not sure what blade comes with the saw, if it has carbide teeth it should cut adequately, if it is not a carbide tooth blade then chuck it in the trash and head to the store!
  18. Great job Bmac thanks for taking us along the build!
  19. Well Jazzed, as you can see you are going to get a lot of good advice and many varied opinions. There is lots of experience here and a ton of great free direction and instruction on the internet on woodworking. Take your time, add the tools as you need them. Do your research on building your projects and the first thing I recommend is read up on tablesaw set-up and tablesaw safety especially around the causes and prevention of kickback. It is obvious you want to keep those fingers away from the blade but it is not so obvious on kickback causes and prevention. Welcome to the forum and the wonderful addictive world of woodworking.
  20. My experience on ripping rough saw lumber on a table saw (3 hp unisaw) was a painful one as the piece kicked back into my groin area! From that point on my table saw pretty much only sees a flat face and a flat edge off the jointer. If I have to rip rough lumber then I head to the bandsaw. The ops saw may be bogging down in the cut due to slight warpage in the piece. If that blade is bogging down in the cut it’s either being fed to fast, a dull blade or pinching between the fence and the blade and that’s the one that will cause pain. Not sawing you can’t rip rough sawn lumber on the table saw but I would make sure it’s flat with a square edge, which rough hardwood rarely is.
  21. Brendon, it is very nice maple, I got it from Bell Forest products, not much of a selection for hardwood in this part of Idaho. We have one place up in Coeur D Alene but their prices are rediculous, I can get my hardwood delivered to my door about 30% cheaper than driving 45 minutes to pick it up! I have found the guys at Bell to be very good to work with and I usually get the lumber in 8-10 days.
  22. Got a little work done this weekend, getting warm now so my shop time usually starts to wind down around 1:00 PM. Routed in the mortises on the top for the base, champhered the legs, routed out the deadman slot and did some shaping on chop. Pretty happy with the fit of the base to the top, have one gap about 0.005” where the top rail is slightly below the leg shoulder. Pretty important to get the drawbore hole in the tenon centered exactly to the hole in the legs!
  23. Bmac your method looks pretty solid. I know in the case of the Maloof Rocker all the joinery is done on square stock, then you cut the parts out on the bandsaw or turn on the lath. Not sure this could be done in the case of your front stretcher given the angle of attachment.